Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

[buickgnx88]

Actually yeah, I forgot how much nicer the shifts were when I had my fluid changed.

 

[nk4e]

Lucky for us, the people driving with that new driver's symbol trying to be JDM are all nearly all young kids who really can't drive for crap.

In Honda and Nissans. I never seen one on a Toyota yet.

 

[Paulie]

I wonder if anybody can help me here. I'm looking for bucket seats, but most aftermarket ones sit a few inches higher than factory seats. I remember seeing in a magazine a little while back an ad for a bucket seat that's designed to sit at the same height as factory ones, if anyone knows the company and name of these bucket seats (or just the company) please tell me. Please not that I'm only interested in ones sold in Australia.

 

[KSaiyu]

I have a 1994 Nissan Sentra B13 EX Saloon. The transmission oil takes a long time to heat up, so shifting from 1-2 is complicated. I haven't managed to get it right yet, and I don't want to screw it up. Tips?

A problem in my car is the 2nd gear synchro is worn (it's very common in this car) and the only way to drive it is double clutching into 2nd/3rd. When I first got it I had to learn the technique in order to shift into 2nd as it would, like you described refuse to go in gear at all - hot or cold, although it's better when fully warm. It's easy to do, and you can find all the information on the web to get started.

 

[Barracuda]

Like I've said in another thread my engine has developed a belt squeal. My friend suggested it may be wet but its never squealed until I ran it hard yesterday, even in heavy rain or fog. My theory is that my alternator isn't bolted down as tight as possible and that it might have moved a bit, but I really have no idea. What could possibly be the cause of the squeal, and how could I fix it?

 

[buickgnx88]

Belt squeals are usually due to either slack in the belt (thus slippage) or a bad pulley bearing. Try to tighten up the belt by moving the alternator, and maybe get a can of belt dressing and spray it on. If those don't work, then come back here.

 

[Nicksfix]

Like I've said in another thread my engine has developed a belt squeal. My friend suggested it may be wet but its never squealed until I ran it hard yesterday, even in heavy rain or fog. My theory is that my alternator isn't bolted down as tight as possible and that it might have moved a bit, but I really have no idea. What could possibly be the cause of the squeal, and how could I fix it?

Check to see if the belt riding surface is not glazed,if it is replace them.belt dressing is only a temporary fix.

 

[niky]

A problem in my car is the 2nd gear synchro is worn (it's very common in this car) and the only way to drive it is double clutching into 2nd/3rd. When I first got it I had to learn the technique in order to shift into 2nd as it would, like you described refuse to go in gear at all - hot or cold, although it's better when fully warm. It's easy to do, and you can find all the information on the web to get started.

Like I've said... transmission oil... there are certain oils, like GM Synchromesh (supposedly), that are kind to some of those cardboard cutouts manufacturers laughingly call "synchros". I've just had to replace 3rd, and it's a pain in the behind.

 

[Eric.]

I've heard lots of good stuff about GM Synchromesh for our Si's that have the issue with third gear.

 

[nk4e]

I just had a general question, It would be better to get a car 100% working than just getting several aftermarket parts and applying them? Because I have one worn CV joint, my heat shield is kind of messed up, Hydraulic Valve ticking ( is somewhat been told that its small) and that's it from what I could tell. But so far, I have been trying to do small D.I.Y projects. Though that one suggestion was to get a engine stand, get a DOHC KA or the same SOHC KA and swap parts that way. Otherwise, I am saving up for coilovers(reading other posts from different sites suggests I just go with coilovers than lowering springs) little by little then the camber kit and rolling my fenders ( I also wonder if I don't have to roll my fenders). But so far, my plans are:
GodSpeed Coilovers
Do you guys have any suggestions I should get after the coilovers? My plan is for a seasonal Track Car/Daily Driver. So I know I couldn't afford alot for now.
(Most of my D.I.Y's are coming from 240sx Tech)

 

[niky]

After Coilovers, brake pads, stainless lines if you can get them. There's not really much else you really need for track days (in fact, brakes and tires are just about the only must). Maybe a cooling system upgrade.

 

[Duke]

I just had a general question, It would be better to get a car 100% working than just getting several aftermarket parts and applying them? Because I have one worn CV joint, my heat shield is kind of messed up, Hydraulic Valve ticking ( is somewhat been told that its small) and that's it from what I could tell.

ALWAYS get your crap fixed before you start spending money on aftermarket goodies, unless you want to look completely ghetto. Nothing looks dumber than an otherwise-decent car with a $600 dent and new $1200 wheels.

Mechanically is not different. I would fix the CV joint because it sounds like crap, is only going to get worse, and will strand you if it breaks. You can probabaly do it yourself and remanufactured axles aren't usually that expensive. Button down the rattly heat shield with some stainless steel hose clamps. If you know the car has hydraulic cam followers, try a can of STP "Stops Valve Noise".

 

[Barracuda]

Belt squeals are usually due to either slack in the belt (thus slippage) or a bad pulley bearing. Try to tighten up the belt by moving the alternator, and maybe get a can of belt dressing and spray it on. If those don't work, then come back here.

I tried to move the alternator but it didn't make any difference, the belt is plenty tight. Looking at it the belt looks a bit old, but I think it might be the alternator pulley bearing. I'm gunna try some belt dressing but if it doesn't go away I might need to look into a new belt or bearing.

 

[nk4e]

Thanks Duke. 👍

 

[KSaiyu]

Like I've said... transmission oil... there are certain oils, like GM Synchromesh (supposedly), that are kind to some of those cardboard cutouts manufacturers laughingly call "synchros". I've just had to replace 3rd, and it's a pain in the behind.

Oh, I was assuming he'd got to the stage of mine where it's impossible to shift through normal driving whatever the oil and too lazy to replace 2nd/pay for it (although my fault jumping to conclusions and comparting to my car's gearbox, which was designed in the '60s so....).

Also, I've a question - Ford Ka engine....My sister's friend's '97 one sounds worse than a diesel, has about 70k on it. I've done the tappets but that hasn't really silenced it any more, is there anything else to try or is it just old age?

 

[TheCracker]

Also, I've a question - Ford Ka engine....My sister's friend's '97 one sounds worse than a diesel, has about 70k on it. I've done the tappets but that hasn't really silenced it any more, is there anything else to try or is it just old age?

Sounds like it might be the cam if the tappets have recently been done. To quote from some KA website:

Many Endura-E owners complain of a chattering, rattling or tapping noise from the engine. This is often the tappets. With the tappets set to Ford's specification gap, some noise can be expected but it should not be excessive. If the tappets require almost continuous adjustment or Ford specifications are used and the engine is still excessively noisy (and often starts ticking) the most common problem is the camshaft. Early Endura-E engines are especially prone to this problem.

The Endura-E engine is basically the 'Kent' engine which dates back to 1959! - it's not the most modern design.

 

[KSaiyu]

I've heard people say it's an antiquated design, I had no idea it was that old though! Her car is by far the dirtiest I've seen with the cam cover off which doesn't bode well, and I doubt she'll be able to afford the necessary work since she hasn't let us change her anti roll bushes which are making that god-awful rattling noise.

 

[MinoltaMan89]

My grandma's Ford Windstar always has a "Check Engine" light on. It seems to drive just fine though. Instrument Panel problem maybe?

 

[Perfect Balance]

No, something's wrong with it, just not something that directly effects drivability.

 

[buickgnx88]

Take it to a dealer or repair shop and have them pull codes from it.

 

[Perfect Balance]

Or just stop by a Local AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts, they'll scan it for free.

 

[buickgnx88]

Yeah, pretty much any place that repairs cars or sells parts.

 

[Giancarlo]

Could anyone tell me why the wheel locks on my back tires (1 on the left side and 2 on the right side) will not tighten all the way down?

 

[buickgnx88]

You mean lug nuts, or lug bolts?

 

[Giancarlo]

Nuts. It's one of those 20-packs they sell at Autozone. I had them installed last time i rotated my tires.

 

[buickgnx88]

2 reasons could cause them to not tighten all the way:
1) Studs were cross threaded in the past, so the threads are screwed up.
2) Lug nuts are too short/studs are too long thus the nuts bottom out before tightening.

 

[Giancarlo]

I'm not sure it's reason number 1, because they're on tight enough to stay on - just not enough and they're "jiggling" around a bit. But maybe that is the reason. I'll have a look tomorrow morning.

And reason number 2 seems unlikely, since the rest of the nuts (including all those on my front tires) are tightened just fine.

 

[buickgnx88]

There's also the possibility that the studs are slightly smaller in diameter than the lug nuts. Enough to where they seem to tighten, but not enough to where they want to stay tight.

I suppose the thing to do is check and see if the studs on the back wheels are all the same length and diameter, along with the same thread size.

 

[Giancarlo]

I'll look into it; thanks for your help.

 

[buickgnx88]

No problem!