Assetto corsa coming to PS4 and Xbox one

[bleeder]

After a few (too many) days without being able to play AC, yesterday I finally had an hour to play some more (Audi R8 V10 Plus @ Zandvoort).


Anyway, two things I'd like to mention:

- As discussed in other threads, depressing the pedals at the beginning of the game works as some kind of calibration and does make a difference. I'm pretty sure of it now. It makes them work in a more progressive way, using more of the travel and giving you more feel. I depress each pedal three times in the static screen with the Ferrari FXX-K (after the intro, but before entering the menus). I think that doing it so after entering the menus already does nothing;

- Also, as @Wiz pointed out in another thread, a lower number in the TC settings actually means that it will be stronger and more intrusive than a higher number. Keep that in mind.

I press mine down too after the wheel has self-calibrated and so far the braking feels fine. Haven't tried not doing it yet to see what the difference is but it certainly seems good in the cars I've driven.

 

[Chikane_GTR]

Anyone know why cars do this at low speed? Its weird

 

[jm79]

Anyone know why cars do this at low speed? Its weird

That's a pretty cool tune you just played there 👍

 

[gladbecker82]

When you look at the sales for AC, it came at a bad time cause F1 2016 came out shortly before that and on Xbox you have Horizon 3 as well coming out. it has the lower entry price going for it though, a fact some people also on here ignore when they compare it to PCars which was full price and was lacking in Cars as well.

My guess is the Ps4 version outsold X1 around 5:1 ratio cause now with the Delay of GT Sport some folks might have picked it up. It was same with PCars, playstation gamers want racing games.

 

[Chikane_GTR]

That's a pretty cool tune you just played there 👍

How does that answer my question? This alone with how bad Chase cam is has really killed my interest in this game to the point i may just uninstalled it from my PS4 and just stick with PCars (P1) and DC (P1-FXXK) and wait for PCars 2

 

[LeMansAid]

How does that answer my question? This alone with how bad Chase cam is has really killed my interest in this game to the point i may just uninstalled it from my PS4 and just stick with PCars (P1) and DC (P1-FXXK) and wait for PCars 2

At least you've totally nailed the whole point of racing simulators though - driving slow and listening for odd sounds.

 

[MagpieRacer]

Anyone know why cars do this at low speed? Its weird

We'll it's a simulation so I'm guessing it's some kind of anti stall as there isn't an engine restart button.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

- As discussed in other threads, depressing the pedals at the beginning of the game works as some kind of calibration and does make a difference. I'm pretty sure of it now. It makes them work in a more progressive way, using more of the travel and giving you more feel. I depress each pedal three times in the static screen with the Ferrari FXX-K (after the intro, but before entering the menus). I think that doing it so after entering the menus already does nothing;

- Also, as @Wiz pointed out in another thread, a lower number in the TC settings actually means that it will be stronger and more intrusive than a higher number. Keep that in mind.

You need to calibrate pedals (all 3 of them) at the start of each game, whether it's PC or console. Every time you turn off the console/PC and your wheel does that spinning thing you have to re-press every pedal again. It has always been like that for all wheels, all games, on all platforms. I'm amazed some people still don't notice this. Probably because in other games ABS works too well and you don't notice a difference pressing the brakes 100% all the time.

Seconded on TC. This confused me to no end when I first got AC. Don't know why Kunos decides it that way

 

[BrandonW77]

You need to calibrate pedals (all 3 of them) at the start of each game, whether it's PC or console. Every time you turn off the console/PC and your wheel does that spinning thing you have to re-press every pedal again. It has always been like that for all wheels, all games, on all platforms. I'm amazed some people still don't notice this. Probably because in other games ABS works too well and you don't notice a difference pressing the brakes 100% all the time.

Surprised me too, I've known to do this since the GT4 days and thought it was common knowledge amongst wheel users. Your wheel obviously calibrates itself at startup by spinning full lock in either direction, your pedals have no way to press themselves so you have to do it manually.

 

[bleeder]

You need to calibrate pedals (all 3 of them) at the start of each game, whether it's PC or console. Every time you turn off the console/PC and your wheel does that spinning thing you have to re-press every pedal again. It has always been like that for all wheels, all games, on all platforms. I'm amazed some people still don't notice this. Probably because in other games ABS works too well and you don't notice a difference pressing the brakes 100% all the time.

Seconded on TC. This confused me to no end when I first got AC. Don't know why Kunos decides it that way

I had previously never done this for either Driveclub or pCARS. Haven't played DC for ages but I used the in-game calibration tool for pCARS which I'm assuming overrides the other one anyway. Had the pedals working excellently in that game. That's why I never did it or even had a need to do it. I'm definitely doing it for AC though.

EDIT: also I've only just performed the manual centre wheel override step. My T300 has always been kinda wonky; the wheel would be centre in game but physically slightly leaning to the left. Now it perfectly lines up. Can't believe I never did this in all the time I was playing pCARS...

 

[C Fandango]

Anyone know why cars do this at low speed? Its weird

Traction control maybe?

 

[ALB123]

How does that answer my question? This alone with how bad Chase cam is has really killed my interest in this game to the point i may just uninstalled it from my PS4 and just stick with PCars (P1) and DC (P1-FXXK) and wait for PCars 2

I've never heard the noise in your video, ever. Nor have I ever heard anyone complain of such a noise. As far as uninstalling the game goes...it's a free country. You may uninstall it any time you wish. If anyone tries to stop you - call the police. The actual police, not the band with lead singer Sting. They won't be able to help you.

 

[bleeder]

Was driving the 599 around with my surround headphones on and I had to keep looking over my shoulder to see who was throwing firecrackers at me

That backfire is mental!

 

[35mm]

You need to calibrate pedals (all 3 of them) at the start of each game, whether it's PC or console. Every time you turn off the console/PC and your wheel does that spinning thing you have to re-press every pedal again. It has always been like that for all wheels, all games, on all platforms. I'm amazed some people still don't notice this. Probably because in other games ABS works too well and you don't notice a difference pressing the brakes 100% all the time.

Surprised me too, I've known to do this since the GT4 days and thought it was common knowledge amongst wheel users. Your wheel obviously calibrates itself at startup by spinning full lock in either direction, your pedals have no way to press themselves so you have to do it manually.

The games I usually played had some kind of wheel recognition and/or would let you calibrate them in-game and then save it.

You can be quick to judge my perception of racing games and the excellence of the ABS in these games, but I highly doubt that I've been playing the GT series and Project Cars with the pedals all wrong.
(in fact, GT even had the bars which showed the amount of throttle/brake you were applying and it would perfectly match the travel of the pedals).

And, after all, I've noticed something was off with AC within a few hours of playing.

 

[lancia delta hf]

Anyone know why cars do this at low speed? Its weird

I've noticed this on a couple cars, I've never seen it happen with tc off.

How does that answer my question? This alone with how bad Chase cam is has really killed my interest in this game to the point i may just uninstalled it from my PS4 and just stick with PCars (P1) and DC (P1-FXXK) and wait for PCars 2

wow really? I'm pretty sure for this to happen you're not actually accelerating which means you're not even driving, you're gonna uninstall the game because you've let go of the throttle to witness what is probably anti stall as MildAshers said. Cant see how that is worse than invisible landmines.

At least you've totally nailed the whole point of racing simulators though - driving slow and listening for odd sounds.

lolol

 

[Lewis_Hamilton_]

How does that answer my question? This alone with how bad Chase cam is has really killed my interest in this game to the point i may just uninstalled it from my PS4 and just stick with PCars (P1) and DC (P1-FXXK) and wait for PCars 2

Looks like it's either a bug or more likely a combination of TCS/Anti-Stall/Auto Clutch, totally worth uninstalling the game for.

When I saw that the in game time and the time on some car's dashboard in GT6 were out of sync by a whole minute, and some reverse lights were not working, I installed all of GT6 immediately! How dare PD call that game a driving simulator.

 

[Chikane_GTR]

Ok ok guys i get it, i take back the uninstalled part Just wanted to know if my game was broken, Cause i never seen that in any other racing game before.

 

[notanexpert]

My bet is it is an anti stall function. Do you have auto clutch on?

 

[lancia delta hf]

Ok ok guys i get it, i take back the uninstalled part Just wanted to know if my game was broken, Cause i never seen that in any other racing game before.

I've actually seen real cars do that, even if only for a second or 2.

 

[BrandonW77]

The games I usually played had some kind of wheel recognition and/or would let you calibrate them in-game and then save it.

You can be quick to judge my perception of racing games and the excellence of the ABS in these games, but I highly doubt that I've been playing the GT series and Project Cars with the pedals all wrong.
(in fact, GT even had the bars which showed the amount of throttle/brake you were applying and it would perfectly match the travel of the pedals).

And, after all, I've noticed something was off with AC within a few hours of playing.

Wasn't judging you mate, was honestly surprised a lot of people didn't know this. Yes, some games have in-game calibrations but that only works for the initial setup. Every time you turn the console back on you generally need to press your pedals down all the way so the system knows how much movement they have. If you don't, then if you go out on track and press the pedal half way the game/system considers that 100% travel which could result in very sensitive brakes. So even though the bars showed you were applying full brake it could be considering that 50% brake was equivalent to 100% brake and was displaying incorrect information. If when you first went on track you pressed the brake 100% for the first turn then all would be fine, but if you only gave partial brake it could calibrate wrong and be too sensitive. This has been a known thing for a long time, back in my GT5 days I'd always press both pedals all the way before I went on track and knew many many other wheel users that did the same and we could all have issues if we didn't do it.

 

[doblocruiser]

Wasn't judging you mate, was honestly surprised a lot of people didn't know this. Yes, some games have in-game calibrations but that only works for the initial setup. Every time you turn the console back on you generally need to press your pedals down all the way so the system knows how much movement they have. If you don't, then if you go out on track and press the pedal half way the game/system considers that 100% travel which could result in very sensitive brakes. So even though the bars showed you were applying full brake it could be considering that 50% brake was equivalent to 100% brake and was displaying incorrect information. If when you first went on track you pressed the brake 100% for the first turn then all would be fine, but if you only gave partial brake it could calibrate wrong and be too sensitive. This has been a known thing for a long time, back in my GT5 days I'd always press both pedals all the way before I went on track and knew many many other wheel users that did the same and we could all have issues if we didn't do it.

Never heard of it before neither. The wheels I used on PS2 and PS3 didn't seem to be affected by this issue. I learned it last week here in the AC forum when this console peasant had issues with the Lambo (no not the tractor)

 

[35mm]

Every time you turn the console back on you generally need to press your pedals down all the way so the system knows how much movement they have.

Why, if it's a fixed travel distance and you've calibrated and saved it beforehand?


I remember the very first touch of the pedals in-game in GT5 being awkward, but never noticed that the calibration would change whether you'd press them lightly or fully.

In fact, if that first touch of the pedals would mean its calibration, then the game would be unplayable for the majority of the times.

 

[skazz]

Why, if it's a fixed travel distance and you've calibrated and saved it beforehand?


I remember the very first touch of the pedals in-game in GT5 being awkward, but never noticed that the calibration would change whether you'd press them lightly or fully.

In fact, if that first touch of the pedals would be equivalent to calibrating it, then the game would be unplayable for the majority of the times.

Thrustmaster and Logitech work differently (at least on PC), I think that maybe there are a few wires being crossed on that.
My experience with Logitech wheels is that you don't need to press the pedals fully after the wheel has been turned on, they just work fine (edit: this is true on PC, but johnnypenso is implying different for GT5/6 on PS3, it's been a while so I might be remembering wrong). However my experience with Thrustmaster wheels is that the pedals need to be pressed fully (after the wheel was turned on) before you can use them, because they auto-calibrate themselves to the maximum distance you pressed them.

My suspicion is that Thrustmaster did this auto-calibration so that you can shorten the throw of the pedal and not have to worry about recalibrating: It just takes the range you press the pedal as "full". But that means you have to show it after each power on exactly how far "full" range is.


So we're not talking about "the first touch each time you drive a car", we're talking about "the first touch of the pedal after the wheel was turned on". With a Thrustmaster wheel you simply wait for it to spin up, then stab each pedal 2-3 times. Then go in game and select cars and tracks to drive. Really not a big deal.

 

[Johnnypenso]

In my experience that's not quite how pedal calibration works. If you go onto the track without calibrating and press them halfway, the game will read that as full braking until you press them further. If at the next corner you depress the brake fully, that becomes the new travel range of the brake and they are fully calibrated. That's probably why a lot of people don't notice it because they use full travel range pretty quickly on most tracks, especially with ABS on. G27 here.

 

[35mm]

In my experience that's not quite how pedal calibration works. If you go onto the track without calibrating and press them halfway, the game will read that as full braking until you press them further. If at the next corner you depress the brake fully, that becomes the new travel range of the brake and they are fully calibrated. That's probably why a lot of people don't notice it because they use full travel range pretty quickly on most tracks, especially with ABS on. G27 here.

Do you mean in GT, or in all games?
I'm asking because that's not what it's happening in AC for me.

Thrustmaster and Logitech work differently (at least on PC), I think that maybe there are a few wires being crossed on that.
My experience with Logitech wheels is that you don't need to press the pedals fully after the wheel has been turned on, they just work fine (edit: this is true on PC, but johnnypenso is implying different for GT5/6 on PS3, it's been a while so I might be remembering wrong). However my experience with Thrustmaster wheels is that the pedals need to be pressed fully (after the wheel was turned on) before you can use them, because they auto-calibrate themselves to the maximum distance you pressed them.

My suspicion is that Thrustmaster did this auto-calibration so that you can shorten the throw of the pedal and not have to worry about recalibrating: It just takes the range you press the pedal as "full". But that means you have to show it after each power on exactly how far "full" range is.


So we're not talking about "the first touch each time you drive a car", we're talking about "the first touch of the pedal after the wheel was turned on". With a Thrustmaster wheel you simply wait for it to spin up, then stab each pedal 2-3 times. Then go in game and select cars and tracks to drive. Really not a big deal.

Thanks for the explanation.
It still doesn't explain Project Cars for me, which should be even more crucial and unforgiving than GT.

EDIT: are you saying that they auto-calibrate always to the full travel distance and only if you don't want that you'd need to calibrate them?



Also, good to see that, after all, all wheels on all games on all platforms don't work the same and maybe it's not as straightforward and surprising as some might think.

 

[BrandonW77]

In my experience that's not quite how pedal calibration works. If you go onto the track without calibrating and press them halfway, the game will read that as full braking until you press them further. If at the next corner you depress the brake fully, that becomes the new travel range of the brake and they are fully calibrated. That's probably why a lot of people don't notice it because they use full travel range pretty quickly on most tracks, especially with ABS on. G27 here.

Ok, I was a bit off, I knew it was something like that and as long as I can remember it's been recommended to fully depress both pedals before going out on track to avoid overly sensitive brakes. I've been doing it so long I forgot the specifics and it's just second nature now, I still do it on all my PC sims just to be sure.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Ok, I was a bit off, I knew it was something like that and as long as I can remember it's been recommended to fully depress both pedals before going out on track to avoid overly sensitive brakes. I've been doing it so long I forgot the specifics and it's just second nature now, I still do it on all my PC sims just to be sure.

Ultimately that's the answer. I calibrate on every game, either in the menus if it's available or once I get on the track if not. In AC (pc) I just open the little pedal/FFB graph and check it with that when I first hit the track. Only have to do it once when you start and you're good to go. I'd imagine on console it's the same, you just don't have that little app yet to confirm it.

 

[Scaff]

Ultimately that's the answer. I calibrate on every game, either in the menus if it's available or once I get on the track if not. In AC (pc) I just open the little pedal/FFB graph and check it with that when I first hit the track. Only have to do it once when you start and you're good to go. I'd imagine on console it's the same, you just don't have that little app yet to confirm it.

I can confirm that this doesn't happen with the PS4 and my T3PAs, regardless of title (see list in my signature) whatever is set in the game menu or is the locked default for the title (in the case of AC and SLRE) is what you get and it doesn't change.

 

[FuzzyFassbender]

Anyone know why cars do this at low speed? Its weird

I've had AC since it's initial release (PC), I've never seen that behavior before.

 

[Tired Tyres]

I can confirm that this doesn't happen with the PS4 and my T3PAs, regardless of title (see list in my signature) whatever is set in the game menu or is the locked default for the title (in the case of AC and SLRE) is what you get and it doesn't change.

Whereas on PS4 my G29 without me pumping the brakes sees me locking up with the X-Bow every time I get to a hairpin or chicane at Imola, but pumping the pedal on the screen that shows the back of a car and asking you to press X means no locking unless I'm being silly. It makes non ABS braking a practical possibility.