Assetto Corsa wheel settings

[mister dog]

There's 56 pages just for the Fanatec wheel settings over at the AC forum, so a bit difficult to find some quick good settings with the wealth of information and different opinions over there (and that is just the Fanatec thread). So i was thinking we share our wheel settings over here at GTP, as the game has been out for a couple of years and most will have their settings tuned by now.

Please mention -your wheel (obviously)
-settings on your wheel itself
-settings ingame (gain, filter, damping and road, kerb and slip effects).

I still haven't figured out mine yet, and with all the stuff to tune i'm a bit lost at the moment to be honest.

Thanks in advance

 

[CodeRedR51]

If someone has some for the DFGT that keeps it from freaking out at low speeds, that would be great.

 

[fatkrakr]

I have a CSW v1 on the wheel I have FF, FOR and Sho at 100 rest at 0. In game gain at 100% and min force at 2% rest at 0. In car dampening at 100% and FF between 55 and 65 for all the cars.

 

[mister dog]

Here is my setting for the standard CSR:

On wheel: SEN OFF, FF 100, SHO 100, DRI 0, ABS OFF, LIN and DEA 0, SPR DPR and ACL OFF
In game: Gain 75, Filter 0, Damping 0, Min force 30 and Kerb 90, Kerb 70 and Slip 30
Final touch is brake gamma: 2.2

 

[Wiz]

Everyone here who plays AC with a wheel should read the OP of this thread - http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...ack-wheel-using-wheelcheck-and-ffbclip.14319/

I already thought the FFB in AC was fantastic. I then performed the calibration as described in that thread and the FFB is even better than it was before. Much better.

 

[CrustyA]

Everyone here who plays AC with a wheel should read the OP of this thread - http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...ack-wheel-using-wheelcheck-and-ffbclip.14319/

I already thought the FFB in AC was fantastic. I then performed the calibration as described in that thread and the FFB is even better than it was before. Much better.

+1 to this.
After I went though all the steps I was very surprised at how much ffb detail I was missing out on. The process eliminated the majority of clipping which was happening almost all the time with my initial settings.

It took me a couple hours to go through everything but it was well worth it.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Everyone here who plays AC with a wheel should read the OP of this thread - http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...ack-wheel-using-wheelcheck-and-ffbclip.14319/

I already thought the FFB in AC was fantastic. I then performed the calibration as described in that thread and the FFB is even better than it was before. Much better.

Can you share your wheel and settings?

The FFB should be opted by Kunos and put into the game it's that important. You can't really have a discussion about your wheel and settings until you've downloaded and run the app and ensured your wheel isn't clipping.

 

[Kurei]

Looks like I'll be joining another forum at some point

No biggie, just a minor inconvenience, but it'll be for the better as I planned to look into avoiding 'clipping' & such anyways, once my G27 arrives and the PC is assembled. 👍

 

[Johnnypenso]

Looks like I'll be joining another forum at some point

No biggie, just a minor inconvenience, but it'll be for the better as I planned to look into avoiding 'clipping' & such anyways, once my G27 arrives and the PC is assembled. 👍

If you have AC you have to be a member in that forum. It's the go to place:tup:👍

 

[Wiz]

I'll post my settings later tonight.

The biggest improvement for me came when I ran the WheelCheck software and created the chart. The chart showed that my wheel (Fanatec CSR) has a MASSIVE deadzone compared to most other wheels. Setting the Min Force in game to 30 made an incredible difference in terms of feel.

 

[NLxAROSA]

So I was fiddling with this program yesterday, which was quite easy. However, I am a complete moron when it comes to creating graphs in OpenOffice, etc. Or do those just suck when it comes to making a graph with values that map from 0-100%?? Can anyone point me to a good example or tutorial? Should I switch to Excel?

 

[Wiz]

Can anyone point me to a good example or tutorial?

Here's a quick tutorial I whipped up this morning for Open Office.

In the first dialog window that opens, I have "Comma" & "Space" checkmarked in the "Separated By" area.

Make sure to watch in fullscreen and in HD.




You'll notice at about 18 seconds into the video, my graph shows up automatically.... yours probably won't do that, which is why at 27 seconds I delete everything and start fresh.

I'm a noob at making graphs myself. I was taught this method a few weeks ago and it works so it's good enough to get the job done I suppose.


Hope it helps.

 

[mister dog]

I'll post my settings later tonight.

The biggest improvement for me came when I ran the WheelCheck software and created the chart. The chart showed that my wheel (Fanatec CSR) has a MASSIVE deadzone compared to most other wheels. Setting the Min Force in game to 30 made an incredible difference in terms of feel.

I'm still waiting for those settings Wiz , CSR owner here too so i'm curious.
Also can you please tell me some more about the Min Force settings? I thought that meant the min. force you had to apply in order for the ingame wheel to move thus increasing the deadzone, so i'm confused as you said the deadzone was a problem to begin with on a CSR.

Cheers!

 

[NLxAROSA]

I'll post my settings later tonight.

The biggest improvement for me came when I ran the WheelCheck software and created the chart. The chart showed that my wheel (Fanatec CSR) has a MASSIVE deadzone compared to most other wheels. Setting the Min Force in game to 30 made an incredible difference in terms of feel.

Same here. My G27 has an FFB deadzone of 18%. So that means 18 percent of minimum force, just to bring the detail back. But to be able to really feel it you need to go higher. In Project CARS I ended up correcting up to 25% to make it feel right.

 

[Johnnypenso]

I'm still waiting for those settings Wiz , CSR owner here too so i'm curious.
Also can you please tell me some more about the Min Force settings? I thought that meant the min. force you had to apply in order for the ingame wheel to move thus increasing the deadzone, so i'm confused as you said the deadzone was a problem to begin with on a CSR.

Cheers!

I don't think that's how minimum force works. My understanding is that some of the physics elements in the game provide FFB that's too weak to show up on the wheel and what the minimum FFB does is ensure that everything outputted to the wheel has a minimum force of X%. So if rolling over a bump in the road was a natural 3% of FFB it might show up in your mighty cool T300 and not in your G27, so the game cranks it up to say 10% (if that's your min. FFB setting) and now you can feel it on your G27. I have mine set to 12% on the G27 but you can see recommendations of 5-15%.

This link is a great resource for AC and below is a snippet about min. FFB.

https://books.google.ca/books?id=WH_1BQAAQBAJ&pg=PA53&lpg=PA53&dq=minimum+force+wheel+settings+assetto+corsa&source=bl&ots=0fj92oq1Iz&sig=BrVBBWL-zKiW3P_CEFNif2zzppU&hl=en&sa=X&ei=bwT7VPeeE4udygS5iYHoBg&ved=0CFUQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=minimum force wheel settings assetto corsa&f=false

 

[mister dog]

Cheers Johnny, i was just PM'ing with @NLxAROSA about it.
That's maybe the only downside of playing racesims on the pc, you spent days figuring out all the sliders before you get the perfect feel , and then there's still probably something you overlooked.

I read a bit about the clipping tool, and it turns out you have to go and calculate it for each car/track combo separately as the FFB cipping is different on all of them, so i decided i'm not gonna bother and just lower the ingame FFB to 80%.
Felt a bit too much like homework to me.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Cheers Johnny, i was just PM'ing with @NLxAROSA about it.
That's maybe the only downside of playing racesims on the pc, you spent days figuring out all the sliders before you get the perfect feel , and then there's still probably something you overlooked.

I read a bit about the clipping tool, and it turns out you have to go and calculate it for each car/track combo separately as the FFB cipping is different on all of them, so i decided i'm not gonna bother and just lower the ingame FFB to 80%.
Felt a bit too much like homework to me.

It's not too much work believe me. Use it a few times to set up cars and then you get a feel for what level of "weight" you can get with the wheel and not have clipping. You literally just turn the app on while hotlapping, there's no work to it at all. It pops out a number and then you change that number in your car settings. What you'll find after a while is that all the Kunos cars will fall within a very small range for your wheel. I assume there's a profiler of some kind for the Fanatec wheel so if you set it at 100 and the in game master setting at 100, you'll get a consistent number from the Kunos cars, say 60-70 for example. So it tells you that you can safely set any new Kunos car to 60 and you're ok. If you want to fine tune a car or it feels a bit week, you just turn on the app while running laps and again a number pops out and you're done. You just have to remember that if your car is at 60 and the app says to set your FFB to 110%, it means 110% of 60 or 66. It's not that important to nail it down to a specific value, just to be in the right range.

It comes in handy with some of the mods that have very heavy steering as default. The Miura is like that IIRC, extremely heavy by default and I think I had to turn it down to about 2/3 my usual Kunos car setting to avoid clipping. It was clipping just be going around a corner at the default setting, forget about going over a curb, you couldn't even feel them the steering was so heavy

 

[mister dog]

It's not too much work believe me. Use it a few times to set up cars and then you get a feel for what level of "weight" you can get with the wheel and not have clipping. You literally just turn the app on while hotlapping, there's no work to it at all. It pops out a number and then you change that number in your car settings. What you'll find after a while is that all the Kunos cars will fall within a very small range for your wheel. I assume there's a profiler of some kind for the Fanatec wheel so if you set it at 100 and the in game master setting at 100, you'll get a consistent number from the Kunos cars, say 60-70 for example. So it tells you that you can safely set any new Kunos car to 60 and you're ok. If you want to fine tune a car or it feels a bit week, you just turn on the app while running laps and again a number pops out and you're done. You just have to remember that if your car is at 60 and the app says to set your FFB to 110%, it means 110% of 60 or 66. It's not that important to nail it down to a specific value, just to be in the right range.

It comes in handy with some of the mods that have very heavy steering as default. The Miura is like that IIRC, extremely heavy by default and I think I had to turn it down to about 2/3 my usual Kunos car setting to avoid clipping. It was clipping just be going around a corner at the default setting, forget about going over a curb, you couldn't even feel them the steering was so heavy

Actually i figured out that the ingame pedal app has the little FFB bar, so i used that to see if i'm not redlining too much with regards to clipping. Works great although probably not as detailed as the clipping app itself, tested a couple of cars already and when i corner hard i go near the maximum, but only get some spikes when riding the curbs. This being with 'Gain' at 90%.

As such these are my updated settings for the CSR with Wiz's advise to put min. force at 30, feels good right now:

On wheel: SEN OFF, FF 100, SHO 100, DRI ABS OFF, LIN and DEA 0, SPR DPR and ACL OFF
In game: Gain 90, Filter 0, Damping 0, Min force 30 and Kerb 90, Road 70 and Slip 30

About the min. force setting i did a before and after, respectively with 0 and 30%, and with 0 i couldn't feel the bumps on the back straight at Magione, but the road came alive with 30% indeed .

 

[Wiz]

@mister dog

My wheel settings match yours exactly.

In game I have Gain at 65%, Filter & Damping at 0, Min Force at 30, Kerb & Road at 70 and slip at 35.

We're pretty close except for Gain. 90 seems a bit high to me and you're probably getting some clipping. Maybe try going down to 75 on Gain and see how that feels.

 

[Kurei]

Another dumb question, But should I try the 'default' game settings for my G27 first (say a week or 2), then try the program ?, or just go right with the program/calibration first-thing ?

I'd play AC tonight, but I'm too mentally-drained to make it worth it, so I'll give default a try tomorrow and go from there.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Another dumb question, But should I try the 'default' game settings for my G27 first (say a week or 2), then try the program ?, or just go right with the program/calibration first-thing ?

I'd play AC tonight, but I'm too mentally-drained to make it worth it, so I'll give default a try tomorrow and go from there.

Default is too high for the G27, it'll be too heavy for the wheel and clip massively.

 

[mister dog]

@mister dog

My wheel settings match yours exactly.

In game I have Gain at 65%, Filter & Damping at 0, Min Force at 30, Kerb & Road at 70 and slip at 35.

We're pretty close except for Gain. 90 seems a bit high to me and you're probably getting some clipping. Maybe try going down to 75 on Gain and see how that feels.

Cheers! I went down to 80% gain but bumped it up again because i didn't redline with the pedal app FFB bar on 90, and i think i had more road feel (although the difference is that small it might have been my imagination). @Kurei I can recommend using Magione as your test track for setting up the wheel, it is a relatively short lap, you have tight corners mixed with 3 fast ones, big kerbs and a long straight with big bumps (which you should feel).

 

[Ialyrn]

Another dumb question, But should I try the 'default' game settings for my G27 first (say a week or 2), then try the program ?, or just go right with the program/calibration first-thing ?

I'd play AC tonight, but I'm too mentally-drained to make it worth it, so I'll give default a try tomorrow and go from there.

These are my settings for the G27, I race and drift with these settings.

Logitech Profiler:

Assetto Corsa settings:

And to show those settings in use, me driving the Lotus Exige on Snoopys Nordschleife v1.1 (Mod track, not the official Kunos Nordschleife)

 

[nepal road]

@Cote Dazur or anyone who can answer the question. What is the difference between the FFB gain setting on the Settings page per post #23 and the gain settings on the Generic Tab for a car in the pits? What if I want all my cars to use the global FFB gain setting (which for me is 60) but the pits setting is always set to FFB Gain = 100 Dampening = 100, and the dampening I always reduce to 0 here? which takes precedence?

 

[Johnnypenso]

@Cote Dazur or anyone who can answer the question. What is the difference between the FFB gain setting on the Settings page per post #23 and the gain settings on the Generic Tab for a car in the pits? What if I want all my cars to use the global FFB gain setting (which for me is 60) but the pits setting is always set to FFB Gain = 100 Dampening = 100, and the dampening I always reduce to 0 here? which takes precedence?

They all multiply to give you the final setting effect. For us Logitech users it's profiler x main setting x car setting. If you set it to 100 and 80 for example you might get a setting of 80 recommended by the FFB App. 100x80x80=64000 If you set it to 100 and 100 then the App will likely spit out around 64. 100x100x64=64000. Either way the end result is the same, but I think it makes the most sense to set the profiler to 100 and the main setting to 100.

I use similar setting to Ialryn, but my brake gamma is stock for cars with ABS (straight line) and gamma is around 2.00 for cars without ABS to be able to use more pedal travel before lock.

 

[fatkrakr]

@Cote Dazur or anyone who can answer the question. What is the difference between the FFB gain setting on the Settings page per post #23 and the gain settings on the Generic Tab for a car in the pits? What if I want all my cars to use the global FFB gain setting (which for me is 60) but the pits setting is always set to FFB Gain = 100 Dampening = 100, and the dampening I always reduce to 0 here? which takes precedence?

FFB gain is what the % of FFB will be applied to all cars. The Generic Tab setting is to fine tune that level for each car and track, which you can then save. So if in the Settings you have FFB at 60 then in the Generic Settings anything under 100 is cutting that 60 anything over 100 is boosting the 60. Its also the same for dampening.

 

[nepal road]

Based on this then, I'm assuming for the moment that the primary setting is in Global, and the minor (tweaking) setting is in the Generic Settings in the Pit, so that the primary setting is roughly what I want from my FFB and the Pit setting is to tweak individual car characteristics where it is felt necessary.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Based on this then, I'm assuming for the moment that the primary setting is in Global, and the minor (tweaking) setting is in the Generic Settings in the Pit, so that the primary setting is roughly what I want from my FFB and the Pit setting is to tweak individual car characteristics where it is felt necessary.

Yes you can approach it that way. I'd set the Global Profiler to 100, the main menu to 100 and then test a few cars to get an average setting, then you can set the main menu to that number and all the cars will be around 100 at that point.

 

[Cote Dazur]

Based on this then, I'm assuming for the moment that the primary setting is in Global, and the minor (tweaking) setting is in the Generic Settings in the Pit, so that the primary setting is roughly what I want from my FFB and the Pit setting is to tweak individual car characteristics where it is felt necessary.

This how I understand it as well. So similar to what @fatkrakr posted above, if you have 60 as global, as mentioned in your post and do not touch it in the pit you get 100% of 60. But if you change it in the pit, let say to 50%, then for that particular track and car you get 50% of 60, so you are now at 30.
Same concept with dampening.

 

[mister dog]

Let's talk degrees of rotation; i have my wheel set @900 degrees both in the profiler and ingame. From what i understand AC adjusts the wheel automatically to the car you are driving, but the wheel doesn't lock at the end of the turning cycle?

I wanted to ask how you guys set it up, i was thinking making 3 presets in the tuning menu of my wheel itself with different degrees of rotation, would this be a good way? What do you guys do when jumping from a road car to a GT to a formula car? Also what degrees do you set for these 3 types of cars?