Assetto Corsa wheel settings

[Ialyrn]

A lot of people set in game rotation to 40°, and then manually set the rotation in their profiler software. I know it works with the G27 and Thrustmaster TX wheel, as I have done it myself in the past. I believe they also set the virtual in car wheel to 420° as well. I just leave it at 900°, less hassle.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Let's talk degrees of rotation; i have my wheel set @900 degrees both in the profiler and ingame. From what i understand AC adjusts the wheel automatically to the car you are driving, but the wheel doesn't lock at the end of the turning cycle?

I wanted to ask how you guys set it up, i was thinking making 3 presets in the tuning menu of my wheel itself with different degrees of rotation, would this be a good way? What do you guys do when jumping from a road car to a GT to a formula car? Also what degrees do you set for these 3 types of cars?

I set my G27 at 900 and leave it. I can feel and see the differences in the cars when driving in terms of degrees of rotation, and I leave the animations off anyway so I don't need to worry about whether it syncs up with what I'm doing. I do have different setups for ABS and no ABS braking with different brake gammas.

 

[mister dog]

Thanks lalyrn and Johnny, it is indeed convenient that the game adjusts it automatically.
About the brakes, that's another stumbling block coming from console racers; you really have to gently touch it with a lot of the cars or you lock up. What does the brake gamma slider do exactly? Can this help in enabling you to press them harder (use more of the pedal) without lockups?

 

[JvM]

^ Essentially yes. You can see the curve in the gamma setting. It changes the sensitivity in your pedal response, so more gamma means less sensitive in first part of pedal travel, and more sensitive when pushed more.

What really is lacking though still, is brake pressure adjustment in the setup. Which I find quite weird at this point still. So many cars have varying brake response.

 

[mister dog]

^ Essentially yes. You can see the curve in the gamma setting. It changes the sensitivity in your pedal response, so more gamma means less sensitive in first part of pedal travel, and more sensitive when pushed more.

What really is lacking though still, is brake pressure adjustment in the setup. Which I find quite weird at this point still. So many cars have varying brake response.

Yeah i was looking for a brake pressure slider but noticed it wasn't there. I definitely have to increase the gamma then as i can only use less than half of my pedal before everything locks up. How much did you increase it?

 

[TomBrady]

I'll leave my settings for the T300 RS

Thrustmaster Profiler

Rotation- 900 degrees

Overall- 100%
Constant- 100%
Periodic- 100%
Spring- 0%
Damper- 5%

Auto Center- 12% but with "by the game" selected

AC Settings

FFB Gain- 63%
Filter- 0%
Damping- 0%
Minimum Force- 2%

Kerb- 85%
Road- 47%
Slip- 55%

I like the settings a lot so far but I am still tweaking. They're surprisingly similar to my DFGT settings though they feel completely different.

Also, I'm not getting clipping with these settings which is why I have the gain set the way I do. I always avoid clipping.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Yeah i was looking for a brake pressure slider but noticed it wasn't there. I definitely have to increase the gamma then as i can only use less than half of my pedal before everything locks up. How much did you increase it?

In my generic "NO ABS/Heel and Toe" setting, I have it at 1.80, which seems good enough for most cars. If I was doing a TT or entering a series or something more serious. I might adjust cars individually, but 1.80 seems like a good, all around setting. I do have the GTEYE brake mod as well. Try it, you'll find a dramatic difference.

 

[mister dog]

In my generic "NO ABS/Heel and Toe" setting, I have it at 1.80, which seems good enough for most cars. If I was doing a TT or entering a series or something more serious. I might adjust cars individually, but 1.80 seems like a good, all around setting. I do have the GTEYE brake mod as well. Try it, you'll find a dramatic difference.

I'll try the 1.80 thanks again for the tip. I have the CSR pedals which have adjustable spring rate, so i'll give that a go (always left them stock so far).

 

[CodeRedR51]

These are my settings for the G27, I race and drift with these settings.

Logitech Profiler:

Assetto Corsa settings:

And to show those settings in use, me driving the Lotus Exige on Snoopys Nordschleife v1.1 (Mod track, not the official Kunos Nordschleife)

Thanks for this. A dummy like me needed it, although I would prefer a little more feedback in the wheel. Feels a bit "light".

 

[Johnnypenso]

Thanks for this. A dummy like me needed it, although I would prefer a little more feedback in the wheel. Feels a bit "light".

Do you use a G27? Have you run the FFB Clipping App?

 

[CodeRedR51]

Do you use a G27? Have you run the FFB Clipping App?

Yes and no. Read through it a couple times and decided that I was too hopeless to do it.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Yes and no. Read through it a couple times and decided that I was too hopeless to do it.

If I can figure it out anyone can. It's very simple. Download and activate the FFB Clipping App. Set your FFB in the profiler to 100. Set the FFB to 100 in the main menu. Go to any car/track and run a couple of laps to make sure you are comfortable with the combination because an off or crash will distort the results. Then open the app and just drive for 5 minutes.

Voila, a number pops out, set your FFB for that car in the game, to that number or close enough. Do this a few times and it'll give you an idea of how high you can set the FFB for your wheel and it'll generally be around the same number for most cars, although mods vary. You can just leave it activated in the main menu and open it while hotlapping, there's literally almost nothing to it.

 

[Alexd1345]

This was a game changer for me.
From AC Logitech wheel thread:
"For Logitech Profiler:
100% overall and use AC's minimum force for your wheel's particular deadzone, or use this overall setting for your deadzone and not AC's min. force setting. For example - I use 100% overall force in profiler and 16% minimum force in Assetto Corsa because my particular G27 requires at least 16% force to respond *(determined using wheelcheck.exe iRacing tool) But if I didn't want Assetto Corsa to handle this task, and I wanted the profiler to manage this - I'd set 116% overall force in profiler and 0% minimum force in AC main menu advanced controls. AC handles this better than Logitech Profiler though in my opinion.
100% spring in profiler, though 99% of people use 0% spring, and I did too for years and still do in other games - but somebody who sounded really smart said it's good in AC and I tried it and it made such a small difference that I can't really tell between 0% and 100% spring, so either way it doesn't matter to me. 0% spring in profiler is fine, 100% spring is fine - try them both for yourself.
100% damper in profiler because that way if you want to use any damping in Assetto Corsa, you will be allowed to. However if you don't want any damping, you can still have no damping even with profiler's damping set to 100% Damping is setup in the game, the profiler just determines if it's allowed or not and 100% in profiler = up to 100% is allowed if you want.
0% center spring as this is just a gross feature for non ffb games, checked the box though because for some reason people say to do that - can't tell a difference with it checked or unchecked personally.
Check the box for allow game to adjust obviously and 900 rotation obviously. Also, it's important if you're not doing this in the global settings but rather if you have a specific profile for AC to make sure the path points to: x:\Steam\SteamApps\common\assettocorsa\acs.exe (x being whatever Drive letter your's is of course)

In game I use 100% gain (I set my gain for each car individually in the General Tab in the pits using FFB anticlipping tool to determine perfect FFB for each car, then save the setup and it will always load up w the perfect FFB)
In game: 0% filter because the raw forces are better
In game: 10% damper (0% is good, but I use 10% to add a bit of 'weight' to the wheel)
In game: 16% minimum force (used a program called wheelcheck.exe to determine that value - reduces deadzone)
In game: 2% Kerb (G27 rattles when this is too high, 2% is enough to feel it without the rattle)
In game: 0% Road (canned/fake effect? Didn't like it - it's sorta like Rumble on a controller for bumps in the road, if using it - use very low amount)
In game: 0% Slip (same as above, canned effect - using this makes good drifting more difficult)
In game: Gamma, Filter, Speed Sensitivity, Brake Gamma = ALL default, don't wanna mess with these - leave them default.
In pits: General Tab can set the FFB gain to whatever that particular car needs since gain is 100% in both profiler and main options = linear setting with full range available here.
I tend to leave Damper on 100% in this General tab (so it allows 100% of my 10% damper choice from the main menu to add in the 'weight' to the wheel so it feels better around the center)
To determine what Gain to set in the General Tab, I use an Assetto Corsa app I downloaded here (check forums for FFB anti-clipping tool 2.3)
For Logitech, having the correct gain rather than guessing is important because these wheels need a lot of force to feel something, but then easily get overworked by too much as well, so dialing in the min. force as well as the gain is important.
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...-anti-clipping-tool-stable-version-2-3.14165/"

@R1600Turbo @Johnnypenso 116% strength on profiler and 100 gain doesn't even clip, it's awesome.

 

[mister dog]

Thanks for this. A dummy like me needed it, although I would prefer a little more feedback in the wheel. Feels a bit "light".

If you want an easier way to see clipping, just activate the pedal app in the AC apps menu on the right, the far right bar shows the FFB and goes red when there is clipping.

In game: 2% Kerb (G27 rattles when this is too high, 2% is enough to feel it without the rattle)
In game: 0% Road (canned/fake effect? Didn't like it - it's sorta like Rumble on a controller for bumps in the road, if using it - use very low amount)
In game: 0% Slip (same as above, canned effect - using this makes good drifting more difficult)

Do most of you leave these off? Many say it's unnatural but i had the impression setting them to 0 took away most of the feedback from curbs, road etcetera. Could have been a placebo effect though as the differences are small. Also for slip you say it makes drifting harder? Can you elaborate a bit as i'd like to know how it makes a difference? Cheers

 

[Alexd1345]

If you want an easier way to see clipping, just activate the pedal app in the AC apps menu on the right, the far right bar shows the FFB and goes red when there is clipping.


Do most of you leave these off? Many say it's unnatural but i had the impression setting them to 0 took away most of the feedback from curbs, road etcetera. Could have been a placebo effect though as the differences are small. Also for slip you say it makes drifting harder? Can you elaborate a bit as i'd like to know how it makes a difference? Cheers

It basically just adds fake ffb effects, which are pointless with that setup I posted. And yeah it makes a difference. Also he means true drifting by just letting the wheel do the job, and slip effect justs slows it down.

 

[mister dog]

It basically just adds fake ffb effects, which are pointless with that setup I posted. And yeah it makes a difference. Also he means true drifting by just letting the wheel do the job, and slip effect justs slows it down.

So slip effect works like a damper slowing the movement down, or does it interfere with the feeling so it's more difficult to realize when the car is breaking away? Normally i think this fake slip effect would enhance the feeling so it's easier to recognize when you start drifting?

Regarding the road and curb effects, i tried tweaking those settings testing on Magione which has decent curbs and big bumps on the back straight, and with both on 0 i didn't feel them as much anymore (could have been my imagination though), so my conclusion was it lessens the effects in general.

 

[Alexd1345]

So slip effect works like a damper slowing the movement down, or does it interfere with the feeling so it's more difficult to realize when the car is breaking away? Normally i think this fake slip effect would enhance the feeling so it's easier to recognize when you start drifting?

Regarding the road and curb effects, i tried tweaking those settings testing on Magione which has decent curbs and big bumps on the back straight, and with both on 0 i didn't feel them as much anymore (could have been my imagination though), so my conclusion was it lessens the effects in general.

It actually makes the wheel lighter when they start slipping (more than it should) resulting in a slower spinning wheel.

 

[mister dog]

It actually makes the wheel lighter when they start slipping (more than it should) resulting in a slower spinning wheel.

Damn, i set my CSR on drift mode 3 just so the wheel would start spinning back faster when needed. Will definitely try this out tonight thanks for the heads up 👍

Can you give a detailed explanation about the road and kerb effects like you did above? Do they just make the FFB stronger or is it something else?

 

[Alexd1345]

Damn, i set my CSR on drift mode 3 just so the wheel would start spinning back faster when needed. Will definitely try this out tonight thanks for the heads up 👍

Can you give a detailed explanation about the road and kerb effects like you did above? Do they just make the FFB stronger or is it something else?

Yeah they basically do that. Aaand maybe you want to check this thread out, since you use a Fanatec http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/fanatec-wheels-official-thread.3294/page-60

 

[CodeRedR51]

My problem is that I have absolutely no clue what all these words mean. I'll try again tonight and if I fail then so be it.

 

[mister dog]

Yeah they basically do that. Aaand maybe you want to check this thread out, since you use a Fanatec http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/fanatec-wheels-official-thread.3294/page-60

There's 60 pages there, for a noob like myself there's not too much explaining of the sliders neither so i prefer to consult the homeboys at GTP

 

[fatkrakr]

Damn, i set my CSR on drift mode 3 just so the wheel would start spinning back faster when needed. Will definitely try this out tonight thanks for the heads up 👍

Can you give a detailed explanation about the road and kerb effects like you did above? Do they just make the FFB stronger or is it something else?

What is meant by a "canned effect" is that when the game detects you hit a bump or curb it will play a ffb effect, but its a pre determined effect that has nothing to with the actual bump you hit. It is basically a recorded ffb effect that just gets reused for all bumps or all curbs. So you will feel less in the wheel, but what your feeling less of wasn't real anyways just there to rumble your wheel for you. You can then use the min. force setting to get those effects to be more felt and it will be coming from the suspension and not just a pre recorded effect.

 

[LeMansAid]

What is meant by a "canned effect" is that when the game detects you hit a bump or curb it will play a ffb effect, but its a pre determined effect that has nothing to with the actual bump you hit. It is basically a recorded ffb effect that just gets reused for all bumps or all curbs. So you will feel less in the wheel, but what your feeling less of wasn't real anyways just there to rumble your wheel for you. You can then use the min. force setting to get those effects to be more felt and it will be coming from the suspension and not just a pre recorded effect.

The program prints out a message on a fortune cookie sized piece of paper, sends it down a tube chute, a mouse inside your pc reads the message and and hits the applicable button corresponding to the ffb effect required. Thanks to the massive power of modern day computers, and tiny cans of energy drink, it all happens with minimal lag.

The term "canned effect" arose from said energy drinks being consumed by our little rodent helpers.

 

[mister dog]

I played around with it and on 0 i really loose most of the FFB feel for the road and kerbs, everything felt flat afterwards. I read somewhere that if you have a lower end wheel like a logitech or in my case; a CSR, you have to put these 'effects' higher in order to get the extra FFB you need, which you'd feel standard with a higher end wheel.

What i did find was that slip on 0 improved the feeling when drifting as @Alexd1345 suggested, so that one's a keeper.

 

[Johnnypenso]

This was a game changer for me.
From AC Logitech wheel thread:
"For Logitech Profiler:
100% overall and use AC's minimum force for your wheel's particular deadzone, or use this overall setting for your deadzone and not AC's min. force setting. For example - I use 100% overall force in profiler and 16% minimum force in Assetto Corsa because my particular G27 requires at least 16% force to respond *(determined using wheelcheck.exe iRacing tool) But if I didn't want Assetto Corsa to handle this task, and I wanted the profiler to manage this - I'd set 116% overall force in profiler and 0% minimum force in AC main menu advanced controls. AC handles this better than Logitech Profiler though in my opinion.
100% spring in profiler, though 99% of people use 0% spring, and I did too for years and still do in other games - but somebody who sounded really smart said it's good in AC and I tried it and it made such a small difference that I can't really tell between 0% and 100% spring, so either way it doesn't matter to me. 0% spring in profiler is fine, 100% spring is fine - try them both for yourself.
100% damper in profiler because that way if you want to use any damping in Assetto Corsa, you will be allowed to. However if you don't want any damping, you can still have no damping even with profiler's damping set to 100% Damping is setup in the game, the profiler just determines if it's allowed or not and 100% in profiler = up to 100% is allowed if you want.
0% center spring as this is just a gross feature for non ffb games, checked the box though because for some reason people say to do that - can't tell a difference with it checked or unchecked personally.
Check the box for allow game to adjust obviously and 900 rotation obviously. Also, it's important if you're not doing this in the global settings but rather if you have a specific profile for AC to make sure the path points to: x:\Steam\SteamApps\common\assettocorsa\acs.exe (x being whatever Drive letter your's is of course)

In game I use 100% gain (I set my gain for each car individually in the General Tab in the pits using FFB anticlipping tool to determine perfect FFB for each car, then save the setup and it will always load up w the perfect FFB)
In game: 0% filter because the raw forces are better
In game: 10% damper (0% is good, but I use 10% to add a bit of 'weight' to the wheel)
In game: 16% minimum force (used a program called wheelcheck.exe to determine that value - reduces deadzone)
In game: 2% Kerb (G27 rattles when this is too high, 2% is enough to feel it without the rattle)
In game: 0% Road (canned/fake effect? Didn't like it - it's sorta like Rumble on a controller for bumps in the road, if using it - use very low amount)
In game: 0% Slip (same as above, canned effect - using this makes good drifting more difficult)
In game: Gamma, Filter, Speed Sensitivity, Brake Gamma = ALL default, don't wanna mess with these - leave them default.
In pits: General Tab can set the FFB gain to whatever that particular car needs since gain is 100% in both profiler and main options = linear setting with full range available here.
I tend to leave Damper on 100% in this General tab (so it allows 100% of my 10% damper choice from the main menu to add in the 'weight' to the wheel so it feels better around the center)
To determine what Gain to set in the General Tab, I use an Assetto Corsa app I downloaded here (check forums for FFB anti-clipping tool 2.3)
For Logitech, having the correct gain rather than guessing is important because these wheels need a lot of force to feel something, but then easily get overworked by too much as well, so dialing in the min. force as well as the gain is important.
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...-anti-clipping-tool-stable-version-2-3.14165/"

@R1600Turbo @Johnnypenso 116% strength on profiler and 100 gain doesn't even clip, it's awesome.

I tried your recommended settings for my G27 and it seems you're on to something. Didn't have a lot of time to experiment and try different cars but I will in the next couple of days, but I like it so far.👍👍

 

[Kurei]

Same, it was a big improvement for me & the McLaren P1 @ Nurb GP, but when I went to the Nordschleife, the suggested FFB was down to 55% which felt too 'soft', so I tried the 116% 'method' and it came back BIG time, and no clipping like you said - I'm even more hooked now to sling a P1 around Nurb

Every day just seems to get better & better with this game 👍

 

[BrandonW77]

In game: 10% damper (0% is good, but I use 10% to add a bit of 'weight' to the wheel)

Is this true? I'd like a little more weight to my wheel but I presumed adding damper would do the opposite of adding weight so I've always left it at 0% in the profiler and in the game.

Also, once you fine tune the FFB gain in the "generic" tab from the pits, is there a way to make it so it always loads with that value? Or do you have to scroll up and load your saved setting every time? That's one of the niggly things that annoys me about AC, always having to re-load my FFB settings whenever I join the track. Would be nice if we could just save it as a global setting for that car so it's always there.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Is this true? I'd like a little more weight to my wheel but I presumed adding damper would do the opposite of adding weight so I've always left it at 0% in the profiler and in the game.

Also, once you fine tune the FFB gain in the "generic" tab from the pits, is there a way to make it so it always loads with that value? Or do you have to scroll up and load your saved setting every time? That's one of the niggly things that annoys me about AC, always having to re-load my FFB settings whenever I join the track. Would be nice if we could just save it as a global setting for that car so it's always there.

You have to save it as a tune. If you scroll up through the track list in the pits, at the top is generic. Just set the FFB, save it as the generic setting, then reload it whenever you go to a track. You only have to do this once for each car.

 

[BrandonW77]

You have to save it as a tune. If you scroll up through the track list in the pits, at the top is generic. Just set the FFB, save it as the generic setting, then reload it whenever you go to a track. You only have to do this once for each car.

That's what I do. But every time I go back to the track I have to reselect it because it defaults back to the original values. Gets to be a pain, especially when you leave the track to adjust something in the main menu, then jump right back on track and your FFB has been reset if you don't remember to load it again.

 

[Alexd1345]

Is this true? I'd like a little more weight to my wheel but I presumed adding damper would do the opposite of adding weight so I've always left it at 0% in the profiler and in the game.

Also, once you fine tune the FFB gain in the "generic" tab from the pits, is there a way to make it so it always loads with that value? Or do you have to scroll up and load your saved setting every time? That's one of the niggly things that annoys me about AC, always having to re-load my FFB settings whenever I join the track. Would be nice if we could just save it as a global setting for that car so it's always there.

Yes. I use 20 myself due to me having a 350mm wheel but yes.