Assetto Corsa wheel settings

[Alexd1345]

Same, it was a big improvement for me & the McLaren P1 @ Nurb GP, but when I went to the Nordschleife, the suggested FFB was down to 55% which felt too 'soft', so I tried the 116% 'method' and it came back BIG time, and no clipping like you said - I'm even more hooked now to sling a P1 around Nurb

Every day just seems to get better & better with this game 👍

Sorry for DP, but glad you like it!

 

[Johnnypenso]

That's what I do. But every time I go back to the track I have to reselect it because it defaults back to the original values. Gets to be a pain, especially when you leave the track to adjust something in the main menu, then jump right back on track and your FFB has been reset if you don't remember to load it again.

Because when you first load the track the game doesn't know what tune you want to use, so it starts out with the default settings. I suppose it could default to a specific tune or a specific setting for the car but it's literally a couple of mouseclicks. If you simply save your settings when you set up a car, either for that track or in the generic setting, you just click and click and you're done.

 

[BrandonW77]

I know. But when you're, say, adjusting your FFB settings, you do a lap or two, then leave to the main menu to make adjustments, then load the track, then load your FFB, do a couple laps, leave to the main menu, make some adjustments, load the track, load your FFB, ad infinitim, it can add up to a lot of clicks. And then one time you forget to load your FFB and wonder why your car's wonky, then have to go to the pits, load your FFB, re-enter the track...........that's a lot more than a couple of clicks and it gets annoying.

 

[CodeRedR51]

This was a game changer for me.
From AC Logitech wheel thread:
"For Logitech Profiler:
100% overall and use AC's minimum force for your wheel's particular deadzone, or use this overall setting for your deadzone and not AC's min. force setting. For example - I use 100% overall force in profiler and 16% minimum force in Assetto Corsa because my particular G27 requires at least 16% force to respond *(determined using wheelcheck.exe iRacing tool) But if I didn't want Assetto Corsa to handle this task, and I wanted the profiler to manage this - I'd set 116% overall force in profiler and 0% minimum force in AC main menu advanced controls. AC handles this better than Logitech Profiler though in my opinion.
100% spring in profiler, though 99% of people use 0% spring, and I did too for years and still do in other games - but somebody who sounded really smart said it's good in AC and I tried it and it made such a small difference that I can't really tell between 0% and 100% spring, so either way it doesn't matter to me. 0% spring in profiler is fine, 100% spring is fine - try them both for yourself.
100% damper in profiler because that way if you want to use any damping in Assetto Corsa, you will be allowed to. However if you don't want any damping, you can still have no damping even with profiler's damping set to 100% Damping is setup in the game, the profiler just determines if it's allowed or not and 100% in profiler = up to 100% is allowed if you want.
0% center spring as this is just a gross feature for non ffb games, checked the box though because for some reason people say to do that - can't tell a difference with it checked or unchecked personally.
Check the box for allow game to adjust obviously and 900 rotation obviously. Also, it's important if you're not doing this in the global settings but rather if you have a specific profile for AC to make sure the path points to: x:\Steam\SteamApps\common\assettocorsa\acs.exe (x being whatever Drive letter your's is of course)

In game I use 100% gain (I set my gain for each car individually in the General Tab in the pits using FFB anticlipping tool to determine perfect FFB for each car, then save the setup and it will always load up w the perfect FFB)
In game: 0% filter because the raw forces are better
In game: 10% damper (0% is good, but I use 10% to add a bit of 'weight' to the wheel)
In game: 16% minimum force (used a program called wheelcheck.exe to determine that value - reduces deadzone)
In game: 2% Kerb (G27 rattles when this is too high, 2% is enough to feel it without the rattle)
In game: 0% Road (canned/fake effect? Didn't like it - it's sorta like Rumble on a controller for bumps in the road, if using it - use very low amount)
In game: 0% Slip (same as above, canned effect - using this makes good drifting more difficult)
In game: Gamma, Filter, Speed Sensitivity, Brake Gamma = ALL default, don't wanna mess with these - leave them default.
In pits: General Tab can set the FFB gain to whatever that particular car needs since gain is 100% in both profiler and main options = linear setting with full range available here.
I tend to leave Damper on 100% in this General tab (so it allows 100% of my 10% damper choice from the main menu to add in the 'weight' to the wheel so it feels better around the center)
To determine what Gain to set in the General Tab, I use an Assetto Corsa app I downloaded here (check forums for FFB anti-clipping tool 2.3)
For Logitech, having the correct gain rather than guessing is important because these wheels need a lot of force to feel something, but then easily get overworked by too much as well, so dialing in the min. force as well as the gain is important.
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...-anti-clipping-tool-stable-version-2-3.14165/"

@R1600Turbo @Johnnypenso 116% strength on profiler and 100 gain doesn't even clip, it's awesome.

I just did all this, got in my first car to go out and drive to adjust it's FFB setting, and instantly the wheel was shaking back and forth violently.

Edit: Changed the profiler back to 100% and it went away. Ran the same car and it said to set the FFB at 64%. I did that, and ran a couple more laps after adjusting the setting, and it's still clipping.

 

[Alexd1345]

I just did all this, got in my first car to go out and drive to adjust it's FFB setting, and instantly the wheel was shaking back and forth violently.

Edit: Changed the profiler back to 100% and it went away. Ran the same car and it said to set the FFB at 64%. I did that, and ran a couple more laps after adjusting the setting, and it's still clipping.

Check your gain and minimum force in AC's main menu

 

[CodeRedR51]

Check your gain and minimum force in AC's main menu

Set to whatever you listed.

 

[skazz]

About minimum force:
This is basically a "hack" to alter the response of the FFB in game to compensate for many wheels having a force deadzone. This "deadzone" is basically from inertia (it takes a bit of force to get the rim spinning), but also probably motor protection so that software which for instance were to send low level noise through to the wheel wouldn't destroy your wheel/motor by accident. Good to have to protect your wheel, but also bad because if the game doesn't take this into account you can lose very small forces (which tends to include microbumps on road surfaces and other tiny effects).


When you apply minimum force, it modifies the entire FFB curve.... So say you have 10% minimum force set, then when the game wants to give you a tiny feeling through the wheel (1% of maximum force requested) it actually puts a 1+10=11% force command through the wheel. The downside is that if you set minimum force higher than your wheel's specific deadzone, you will end up with crazy behaviour. For instance oscillation on the straights.

The idea is to use iRacing's wheelcheck program to determine the force deadzone of your actual wheel, then compensate for this specifically. But to make matters worse, every single wheel on the market has a differing deadzone depending on the driver configuration. So for example a G25 will have 12% deadzone if you run it at 100% gain in drivers, but maybe only a 5% deadzone if you run it at 110% gain in drivers. So you need to plot force curves for your wheel at different driver settings in order to determine the correct minimum force compensation.


On the AC wheelcheck thread you will see force curves plotted for DFGT, G25, G27, TX/T300, T500, CSWv1, CSR, GT3RS, GT2, CSWv2. Your wheel is probably very similar to those curves, but the only way to be sure is to plot curves yourself.



P.S. I use the following:
T300 : drivers 75/100/100/0/0, game 60% gain, 0% filter/damping, 0% fake effects, 1.0 brake gamma, 5% minimum force.
T500: drivers 60/100/100/0/0, game 65% gain, 0% filter/damping, 0% fake effects, 1.0 brake gamma, 7% minimum force.

The fake effects really have nothing to offer. They were perhaps handy before minimum force was added to AC, but now I can feel every little bump and dip in the road, every tooth in a sawtooth curb (and NO fake rumble for painted curbs!). Really no need to fake anything.

 

[mister dog]

It's good that you guys make the effort to explain all these sliders in such detail, duly appreciated

@skazz i've been using min. force at 30 (which is the maximum) with my CSR as @Wiz checked it with his software, and it seems our wheel is the worst in that regard. Also regarding the fake effects (kerb, road and slip), i left road and kerb on as i lost most of the feedback on curbs and bumps when they were set on 0. I already mentioned it on the last page but i think lower end wheels need this to compensate for what people would feel on higher end ones.

 

[skazz]

i left road and kerb on as i lost most of the feedback on curbs and bumps when they were set on 0. I already mentioned it on the last page but i think lower end wheels need this to compensate for what people would feel on higher end ones.

I played AC for months with my G25 without any fake effects. No problems feeling kerb rumble or track surface detail. Sure, some kerbs are painted and smooth and you only feel suspension movement rather than rumble, but that's as it should be when simulating the real track. Also some tracks have very smooth tarmac, which is fine: You still get weight transfer and tyre grip feel through the FFB.

To give you an example: Imola in AC feels very smooth, however just before start-finish there are some bumps in the tarmac. If you have a generic "road surface" effect active then you may not even notice those bumps, and would not appreciate the uniquenesses to the track surface which come from the laser scan.


I've never tried AC with my GT2 wheel, but from experience with it in other games, I know the Fanatec CSR (same motor/belts) is capable of producing small track surface detail. My advice would be to turn off all damping and filtering (in drivers and in game), set drift mode up as high as you can without it constantly overshooting or oscillating. See if you get more of the "real" forces coming through and can turn down the "fake" effects.

 

[mister dog]

I played AC for months with my G25 without any fake effects. No problems feeling kerb rumble or track surface detail. Sure, some kerbs are painted and smooth and you only feel suspension movement rather than rumble, but that's as it should be when simulating the real track. Also some tracks have very smooth tarmac, which is fine: You still get weight transfer and tyre grip feel through the FFB.

To give you an example: Imola in AC feels very smooth, however just before start-finish there are some bumps in the tarmac. If you have a generic "road surface" effect active then you may not even notice those bumps, and would not appreciate the uniquenesses to the track surface which come from the laser scan.


I've never tried AC with my GT2 wheel, but from experience with it in other games, I know the Fanatec CSR (same motor/belts) is capable of producing small track surface detail. My advice would be to turn off all damping and filtering (in drivers and in game), set drift mode up as high as you can without it constantly overshooting or oscillating. See if you get more of the "real" forces coming through and can turn down the "fake" effects.

I tested this on Magione because it has higher curbs and big bumps on the back straight, and with road and kerb on 0 everything felt flat, whereas with them on 70 i felt the kurbs like i imagine i would have to feel them, and the back straight came alive again. Although they are generally perceived as fake enhancers, it improves the experience with my wheel.

 

[BrandonW77]

I tested this on Magione because it has higher curbs and big bumps on the back straight, and with road and kerb on 0 everything felt flat, whereas with them on 70 i felt the kurbs like i imagine i would have to feel them, and the back straight came alive again. Although they are generally perceived as fake enhancers, it improves the experience with my wheel.

I have the same experience, with the "fake" effects at zero everything feels dull and bland on my T300 and not like I'm in a car moving over a less-than-smooth surface at high speed. I have to turn the kerb and road effects up in order to get a better feeling. Personal preference though, everyone will enjoy/desire something different.

 

[skazz]

Just out of interest: Do you guys find a similar lack of road surface detail in other sims? e.g. Raceroom, rFactor, pCARS or whatever else you are driving?

I'm having difficulty matching what you're saying to my own experiences of AC with 3 different wheels (G25, T500, T300)...

 

[Harley45]

DFGT

AC Settings

FFB Gain- 80%
Filter- 0%
Damping- 5%
Minimum Force- 7%

Kerb- 10%
Road- 40%
Slip- 25%-

Profiler

900Deg

that's about it so far............

 

[mister dog]

Just out of interest: Do you guys find a similar lack of road surface detail in other sims? e.g. Raceroom, rFactor, pCARS or whatever else you are driving?

I'm having difficulty matching what you're saying to my own experiences of AC with 3 different wheels (G25, T500, T300)...

I'll leave the answer for Brandon as i just migrated from the console world, and AC is my only racer on PC so far

 

[BrandonW77]

Just out of interest: Do you guys find a similar lack of road surface detail in other sims? e.g. Raceroom, rFactor, pCARS or whatever else you are driving?

I'm having difficulty matching what you're saying to my own experiences of AC with 3 different wheels (G25, T500, T300)...

Nope. I've spent time in both R3E and GSCE and both have very lively FFB. In R3E (though it's FFB is lacking in some departments) the wheels shakes (almost violently) when you brake hard and you can even feel a "thump" when you change gears. You don't feel much from the road surface, but I believe S3 have said they specifically didn't code much of that into the game. In GSCE the FFB is very lively, you feel every groove, bump, and pebble on the road. In AC I get little to none of that. If I crank the road effect up I get some of it, but never to the extent of the other sims.

Here's a sample video I made when discussing this issue in the past with friends. It's on my old GT3 RS wheel, but it's mostly the same on the T300. You can see that in AC (with "fake" effects at zero), at one of the bumpier tracks available, the wheel pretty much doesn't budge until I jam the brakes, and even then it's rather tame. In R3E it's a completely different story, especially when I jam the brakes. It's all a matter of preference of course, but I like to think that getting a race car around a track in anger would feel similar to trying to ride a bucking bronco and IMO R3E does a better job of that (though it has other FFB issues that detract from it as a whole). In AC it feels more like taking a drugged up dog for a leisurely stroll, heavy braking from 160mph is a non-event and getting around a corner at high speed doesn't even raise a neck hair. That being said, I basically only play AC now so it's not that much of an issue to me, but I do wish AC had a more lively feel through the wheel.

 

[skazz]

Comparing those two videos, AC looks way more lifelike. A car driving along a flat road (even with minor undulations) has momentum and wants to keep going forward, so it does.

but that's the beauty of simulating, you can tweak to get your desired result

 

[BrandonW77]

Well, if I take my hands off the wheel of my real car on a bumpy road at 80mph, I can promise it won't be going straight very long!

But I'm a person that likes my FFB to give me info that I would normally get from the seat of my pants in a real car, so I want there to be more info coming through the wheel than a real car would have. Personal preference though, and I've been ruined by 15 years of console racing on FFB wheels so my expectations/desires are skewed by prior experiences. But, if I crank up the road effect in AC it feels a bit closer to my liking.

 

[skazz]

Well, if I take my hands off the wheel of my real car on a bumpy road at 80mph, I can promise it won't be going straight very long!

But I'm a person that likes my FFB to give me info that I would normally get from the seat of my pants in a real car, so I want there to be more info coming through the wheel than a real car would have. Personal preference though, and I've been ruined by 15 years of console racing on FFB wheels so my expectations/desires are skewed by prior experiences. But, if I crank up the road effect in AC it feels a bit closer to my liking.

I know I'm laboring the point, but Magione has undulations which are lateral to the road. The car won't be sent off course from them, just bump up and down.
You can see that here, for instance:
Or in this link you can see his wheel is held loosely in one hand except under braking, despite him bumping up and down on the second half of the back straight:

 

[BrandonW77]

Regardless, my preference hasn't changed. I prefer my FFB to convey some of the "seat of the pants" feelings you don't get through a real steering wheel. And I'm also still conditioned to GT's FFB so I'm still adapting to AC's FFB and its lack of some of those feelings. Doesn't mean I'm right, just what I prefer.

 

[fatkrakr]

Regardless, my preference hasn't changed. I prefer my FFB to convey some of the "seat of the pants" feelings you don't get through a real steering wheel. And I'm also still conditioned to GT's FFB so I'm still adapting to AC's FFB and its lack of some of those feelings. Doesn't mean I'm right, just what I prefer.

When AC first came out in early access their was no "added effects" and a lot of people had the same complaint as you guys have. AC decided to add these effects as an option for people who prefer more info coming from their wheel. The reason it was added this way was because a lot of us only wanted to feel what actually coming from the tires. Many of us use Simvibe to fill in those effects your adding to the wheel. So if you prefer them use them that's why they where added, but if you can get Simvibe you will loose those effects I believe. Don't need my wheel to rumble when my whole rig is already, which is where them vibrations would be coming from in real car not the wheel.

 

[Cote Dazur]

So if you prefer them use them that's why they where added, but if you can get Simvibe you will loose those effects I believe. Don't need my wheel to rumble when my whole rig is already, .

good suggestion, or if you want to spend less to get some of those effect, you can, as I do, just use a Butt Kicker connected to your sound card, it will make you feel the curbs in your seat. Simvibe is better than just connecting the BK direct to the soundcard, but a little pricey for me.

 

[BrandonW77]

I don't really have the money or equipment for Simvibe or Buttkicker so getting that info from the wheel is my only option. I'd like to add that to my rig at some point, but it won't be in the near future.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Further update on @Alexd1345 's settings above. Wonderful. I'm at 100/100/80-100 on all cars so far in terms of profiler, main menu and in game FFB strength on my G27 now with canned effects at zero and it's the best this wheel has ever felt. More weight than I've ever had before and more than enough road/curb/slip effects to know what is happening with the car at all times. The deadzone is pretty much gone as well. If the T300 is that much better than the G27 I'm in for a real treat when I eventually pick one up. If you haven't tried Alex's settings and you have a G27 you should really try it. You can leave all your other profiles intact, just make a new profile with his settings to try it out. For the record, I'm not using the 116% profiler setup, just the 100% profiler setup.

Many of us use Simvibe to fill in those effects your adding to the wheel. So if you prefer them use them that's why they where added, but if you can get Simvibe you will loose those effects I believe.

So if you have Simvibe the road and curb effects are only through the shaker and not the wheel? Now that would be interesting:idea: How many shakers do you have? Do you use a separate sound card?

 

[BrandonW77]

Does anyone know if these settings can be translated to a T300RS?

 

[fatkrakr]

So if you have Simvibe the road and curb effects are only through the shaker and not the wheel? Now that would be interesting:idea: How many shakers do you have? Do you use a separate sound card?

You still get all the same effects in the wheel, simvibe just adds a lot more effects. A lot of them are based off what is used for motion rigs. I only use a single buttkicker. I have done some testing and at least on my rig I cant get enough separation in the effects to justify the expense of more kickers.


Edit: What I meant buy loose those effects was turning off the canned effects.

 

[Alexd1345]

Further update on @Alexd1345 's settings above. Wonderful. I'm at 100/100/80-100 on all cars so far in terms of profiler, main menu and in game FFB strength on my G27 now with canned effects at zero and it's the best this wheel has ever felt. More weight than I've ever had before and more than enough road/curb/slip effects to know what is happening with the car at all times. The deadzone is pretty much gone as well. If the T300 is that much better than the G27 I'm in for a real treat when I eventually pick one up. If you haven't tried Alex's settings and you have a G27 you should really try it. You can leave all your other profiles intact, just make a new profile with his settings to try it out. For the record, I'm not using the 116% profiler setup, just the 100% profiler setup.

So if you have Simvibe the road and curb effects are only through the shaker and not the wheel? Now that would be interesting:idea: How many shakers do you have? Do you use a separate sound card?

Really glad I could be helpful!

 

[mister dog]

There's this common thing with racing sims in general that the more you turn the wheel at speed, the more there is resistance from the belt giving you a heavier wheel to turn. I'm wondering if this is realistic?

Of course i don't have any experience in a race car, but when i drive street cars the wheel stays quite light when turning at all times (much lighter than on sims), and i'm a bit doubtful that it would be any difference in race cars, so why do they always implement this damping force? You don't have it racing formula cars in race sims, as then all of a sudden the wheel is the total opposite and it feels light as a feather (which i doubt is realistic too).

AC's wheel settings are quite limited so at first glance i can't really see an option to turn that resistance down a notch. There's the damper setting on my CSR itself but that isn't applicable to PC games.

 

[Kurei]

There's this common thing with racing sims in general that the more you turn the wheel at speed, the more there is resistance from the belt giving you a heavier wheel to turn. I'm wondering if this is realistic?

Of course i don't have any experience in a race car, but when i drive street cars the wheel stays quite light when turning at all times (much lighter than on sims), and i'm a bit doubtful that it would be any difference in race cars, so why do they always implement this damping force? You don't have it racing formula cars in race sims, as then all of a sudden the wheel is the total opposite and it feels light as a feather (which i doubt is realistic too).

AC's wheel settings are quite limited so at first glance i can't really see an option to turn that resistance down a notch. There's the damper setting on my CSR itself but that isn't applicable to PC games.

I'd say so, to an extent, with my Honda running no power steering, turning the wheel into a corner @60mph is different than that same corner @25mph, mostly because of the difference in the car's desire to 'go-straight' from 60mph compared to 25mph.

a.k.a turning resistance can increase with speed.

However, modern-day power steering systems throw all that feel 'out the window', in the name of ease & comfort, to further sales & such for the manufacturer - especially if it's electric vs. hydraulic

Best way to feel such a thing for yourself ?, see if you can get your hands on a go-kart or older vehicle, and go wrestle it around a bit.

 

[BrandonW77]

There's this common thing with racing sims in general that the more you turn the wheel at speed, the more there is resistance from the belt giving you a heavier wheel to turn. I'm wondering if this is realistic?

Of course i don't have any experience in a race car, but when i drive street cars the wheel stays quite light when turning at all times (much lighter than on sims), and i'm a bit doubtful that it would be any difference in race cars, so why do they always implement this damping force? You don't have it racing formula cars in race sims, as then all of a sudden the wheel is the total opposite and it feels light as a feather (which i doubt is realistic too).

AC's wheel settings are quite limited so at first glance i can't really see an option to turn that resistance down a notch. There's the damper setting on my CSR itself but that isn't applicable to PC games.

Two things: A) With real-world cars it depends on the car. My current car does get a bit of heavier steering in the turns, but my previous car didn't really feel like that. 2. FFB wheels for games often times try to convey feelings that you'd normally feel in the "seat of your pants" that aren't felt in sim racing because there are no G forces in play. When you take a turn at speed in a real car your body wants to lean left or right and IMO that's what the heaviness in the wheel is trying to convey. In a real car the wheel may not get heavier in a turn but your arms do tend to work more because they're trying to turn the wheel and keep you centered in your seat, you can feel it in your shoulders just like I feel it in my shoulders when sim racing. (This is why racing seats have heavy bolstering, to keep you centered and relieve your arms/upper body of the effort) Same with bumps and shakes, in a real car you wouldn't really feel these through the wheel but you'd feel them through your feet and legs and butt and back, but in sim racing they only way to convey that is through shaking/vibrating the wheel (unless you have a motion rig).

A couple months ago when my PC/wheel was acting up these centering/damping forces you talk about were pretty much completely missing and it pretty much completely ruined the experience for me. Instead of feeling like I was in a 2ton hunk of metal trying to persuade it to bend the laws of physics and high speeds, I felt like I was sitting in front of a tv giving vague inputs to a gaming controller. Yeah, I could still steer and could feel some of the bumps, but it did nothing to trick me into believing I was actually driving a car like a properly working wheel does. I know a lot of people think a sim should only relay through your wheel what you'd feel in a real car's steering wheel, and it's perfectly fine for them to have the preference. For me, I prefer the wheel to do these other things that supplement the experience and convey information I'd normally get through other parts of my body. It's all a matter of preference, there is no right or wrong.

And like @Kurei said, I drove a kart a few weeks ago and the steering gets incredibly heavy in the turns. After a 15 minute session my arms felt like limp noodles for the rest of the day.

 

[mister dog]

Yeah i went go karting a couple of times and the steering is indeed quite heavy, but that's not really comparable with a modern car. The older no power steering ones were a real arm workout when parking or turning at slow speed but got easier carying some speed in faster corners.

I guess it's like you say Brandon that these effects are exaggerated a bit to compensate for the lack of G forces. Would be nice to adjust it in AC though. In R3R you can adjust this, so i have that effect lessened whilst still retaining a lot of FFB and feel in general.