Best car for "Nurburgring 24h"endurance race....??

  • Thread starter hawk2201
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Anything that will beat the BMW McLaren F1 basically.

That means whatever you use in the 650PP online event would be suitable/overkill.

The most important thing is a car that is easy to drive.
 
Last update ..

Best choice / Toyota GT one / 700pp / 6'50
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Second choice / Bentley Speed 8 / 700pp / 6'55
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Supercar

Best choice / Mclaren F1 / 650pp / 7'25

Second choice / Pagani Zonda R / 650pp / 7'25
 
I tried three different LMP and Group C cars to race it --R92CP,R8 PlayStation Oreca and Peugeot 908 .Finally , 908 is must suitable to race Nur because 908 more easy to control and faster than other one.
 
B spec will just be a matter of using the X2010, but A spec I'm not sure. I have a fair number of LMP/Group C cars available but I don't want it to be too easy. I'm wondering if the 600-650pp cars make things more interesting. I have the Ford GT LM, Spec II, Fairlady Z LM race car, Mazda Furai, Zonda R, Chapparal 2D, Chapparal 2J.

The 2D was excellent for the 4 hours race since it handled excellently, sounded superb and had very good tyre life. Was lapping just over 8 minutes most of the time.
 
I just fully tuned these beauties:
-Nissan GT-R R35 TC
-Ford GT Spec II Test Car
Both have around 670pp.

One of these is gonna do the job on the 24hr Nordchleife:)
I think it will be the Nissan, as it handles better imo.
 
I know it's an old threat, but I just wanted to give a vote for the Chapparal 2D fully blown if anyone is still doing these 24 hour races for fun.

That car is one of the easiest to drive. With a decent setup it can have a very strong front end, without comprimising rear stability one bit.
You can basically mash the throttle right at the apex and you will get thrown out of the corners much faster then the competition without getting the understeer that a AWD car with same power applying capabilities would have.
Brake bias I found to be best around 7:3. Otherwise it gets very tail happy under breaking.
The best thing about it though is how well it matches the R8.
I lap around 8 minutes (using mediums). Generally a few seconds a lap slower then the R8, but don't worry. The 2D uses noticeably less fuel, so the pitstops are much quicker. Thereby making it quite a close competition.
My strategy:
Need competition? - Hard tyres 4-5 lap stints.
Usual - Medium tyres 4 lap stints.
In trouble? - Soft tyres 3 lap stints. (catches the Audi at several seconds a lap, and with shorter pitstops will make up a 1 minute defecit in just two or three stints.)

The headlights are decent, but more importantly it is very forgiving if you get two wheels onto the grass.
It won't just eat you raw and spit you out like my Pug did last time I did the 24 hour.
Usually you keep going the right direction. Which I think is really important for races like this.
 
Just a pity it spins out any time you go even slightly off track.. 2hrs in and I gave up with it even though I was way ahead. Just too hard.

Have you tried adjusting your LSD and suspension? Especially on a track like the 'Ring, with narrow, windy tarmac and high rumble strips, it helps. Also, with the DS3, there is no ability to feather the throttle, which makes it particularly difficult to control a Class C or faster without traction control, especially if using hard/medium tires. I like the Peugeot 908, but prefer the Sauber Merc or Toyota Minolta for the planted feel.
 
Have you tried adjusting your LSD and suspension? Especially on a track like the 'Ring, with narrow, windy tarmac and high rumble strips, it helps. Also, with the DS3, there is no ability to feather the throttle, which makes it particularly difficult to control a Class C or faster without traction control, especially if using hard/medium tires. I like the Peugeot 908, but prefer the Sauber Merc or Toyota Minolta for the planted feel.

Thanks for the advice.

Weird as I have no trouble feathering the throttle.. The inputs from the two sticks are analogue and even though you can't operate the throttle with as much control as a set of pedals there is still a range of inputs you can use.

I have found it is much better if you stay off the strips (very difficult) and use Intermediate or soft tyres.. Just don't try soft on front and hard on the rear... :)
 
I agree with you regarding the problems with mixing soft front and hard rear. I used the Mazda 787B for the 24 Hours Nurb race and tried mixing up the tyres like that. It's a lot harder to control for sure.
 
I agree with you regarding the problems with mixing soft front and hard rear. I used the Mazda 787B for the 24 Hours Nurb race and tried mixing up the tyres like that. It's a lot harder to control for sure.

It started raining about 8 hours ago and now it just spits you into the scenery at random times just to make it even harder. :)

Some places the car hangs on like it is dry and others it is like ice.
 
I used the fan car in all the endurance races to get em over with. the Audi open cockpit cars are good cars to relax in and keep up a good clip.......but my favorite thing to do was run nurburgring against the GTP's with a door slammer 1970 dodge Charger, done up in tuning plus some rearward ballast after shedding weight....if i could have put a Small Block in i would have. Best i ever ran was single lap race, 7 min 16 secs placing 2nd, after being nudged by wolf pack on my ass at end of straight(my top end was 208mph), just past tire bridge entering flat sweeper, a dog nudged my quarter and two 360.s ensued, i never left pavement, came out of 2nd one pointed in right direction...the three dogs had passed while i was spinning, but i blasted right back by in the last sets of switchbacks before finish line. I had grabbed 2nd early in race, but the leading R-8 was gone....i built a good gap for race, knowing i was going to need every bit of it on the back straight..where i couldn't match their top end......the door slammer did just fine if led properly...wouldn't understeer bad, and when it did start to push, e-brake it and snap the ass out to relieve the understeer...with a small block..would have been a different universe. I've owned three B Body Dodges in real life, i've also oned a deTomaso Mangusta, Mini Cooper and more.....don't be fooled by the size of B Bodies...very formidable in the canyons.....they are quite agile with small blocks...all of mine were bone stock 318's and no sway bars and much faster than the Mangusta in tight stuff. the wheelbase & track combination is a match made in heaven ..very stable,,very predictable & quite forgiving of sloppiness w/o set-up. a shootout between a 500 hp Daytona or Superbird against any of the 800 hp purpose built crap nascar runs now....my money is on the old door slammers....nascar is such a joke...purpose built race cars built to handle like ****...that's f-ing progress, ain't much for racing....nothing i waste my time on. Another car that was a ball to drive on GT-5 was the little Red Alfa Romeo, 4 whl drv Box 4 door sedan..boxed fenders...unfadeable car, another 100 hp, it would have kicked ass on GTP's...i did kick a lot of GTP tails on tight circiut stuff with the alfa box...thing was amazing on the Laguna Seca Corkscrew
 

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choose the car that you are most comfortable with doing laps subconsciously. Also, one that can be forgiving for the occasional input error, and also easy to get back on track if spun out, and to have a peace of mind to lead by a good 2 laps at least into the 11th hour,

For myself, this would be a Vaxhaul or opel Astra touring car, BMW GTR Racecar, Mclaren F1 racecar, 908FAP, Renault Trophy Lutencia racecar, Alpha 155 TI, to name a few.

If I had the time to sit this through, and a trusty wall circuit breaker, I'd do this every 24h I can get!
Yeah the the Alpha 155 TI...that's it...easy drive, fast & forgiving
 
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