Best settings for FANATEC CSL

[Mirror_man]

Maybe it's a firmware difference, but when I used the load cell in the past, I had a BRF setting, and I'm using the potentiometer pedal now, and there's no BRF setting.

Which pedal are you talking about?
I had previously a load cell and now a V3 and always had Brf! Now I also have Bli !

 

[fastone371]

Which pedal are you talking about?
I had previously a load cell and now a V3 and always had Brf! Now I also have Bli !

The standard Fanatec pedal, I have the V3 loadcell. Someone told me that the brake force settings were opposite of what I had mentioned but I found out he was not talking about the loadcell pedal.

 

[NSP525]

My load cell pedal requires less input force to reach max brake force when the BRF value is lower. I believe there's a version or the csl wheelbase where the inverse of this is true also.

 

[Mirror_man]

My load cell pedal requires less input force to reach max brake force when the BRF value is lower. I believe there's a version or the csl wheelbase where the inverse of this is true also.

I think so! But the BRF variable remains in any of such ...

 

[fastone371]

My load cell pedal requires less input force to reach max brake force when the BRF value is lower. I believe there's a version or the csl wheelbase where the inverse of this is true also.

Really?? So it's easier to lock up the brakes with BRF set at 20 rather than on 100?

 

[NSP525]

Really?? So it's easier to lock up the brakes with BRF set at 20 rather than on 100?

At 100 for mine I have to stand on the pedal to get max brake force. It is easier to lock the brakes with a lower value for me. I run 40-50 in most games usually.

 

[DoctorNuu]

The BRF settings definitely only appears if the electronics that comes with the loadcell kit is installed - the black box mounted underneath the pedals. This box only supports the LC Brake, you cannot plug in the standard brake and adjust that. I've tried all variants.

Returned the LC, by the way. way too inconsistent at low force settings like 20kg. I have just measured the force for the standard pedals, it's about 5kg. I think 10-20kg would be a comfortable range. 50kg+ just makes no sense without g-forces that also push you forward

 

[Groundfish]

If you have a load cell you need the pedals secure lol
Isn’t that common sense?

 

[DoctorNuu]

Searched Fanatec website, did not find secure pedals!

 

[Groundfish]

eturned the LC, by the way. way too inconsistent at low force settings like 20kg. I have just measured the force for the standard pedals, it's about 5kg. I think 10-20kg would be a comfortable range. 50kg+ just makes no sense without g-forces that also push you forward

Again wrong on both counts.
More force gives greater span from 0-100 percent brake, which can be advantageous, and there’s no inconsistency in the load cell itself even at low brf.
Inconsistent force applied by user is the only explanation.
Maybe not having fixed good seating or pedals bolted to something so things can’t move causes inconsistency...

 

[fastone371]

Again wrong on both counts.
More force gives greater span from 0-100 percent brake, which can be advantageous, and there’s no inconsistency in the load cell itself even at low brf.
Inconsistent force applied by user is the only explanation.
Maybe not having fixed good seating or pedals bolted to something so things can’t move causes inconsistency...

I had to make several changes to my rig to get my LC pedals to work nice. They were always securely fastened, that's the reason I custom built my rig out of 4130 chrome moly tubing, I didnt want flex and movement. My issue was with pedal angles, my rig seats you about the same way you would expect to sit in a performance car, it seems Fanatec had the pedals angled to work best sitting at a desk. I had to rotate my pedal assembly to stand the pedals up straighter then I had to build a platform to raise my foot so I didnt have to lift my foot up to operate the brake. I used to keep BRF at 100, now I use between 30-50 on most cars. Now I'm thinking about how I can modify my throttle pedal and possible linkage design to get the throttle to operate in a linear fashion even though Polyphony apparently does not like that idea. The real issue is accomplishing it simple rather than complicated, are there any electrical gurus that can help so I dont have to do it mechanically?? It's something I have done on real life race cars.

 

[DoctorNuu]

@Groundfish I think you got the Clubsport pedals, why do you keep defending the Standard LC?

@fastone371 30-50kg makes sense. Standard pedals?
The pedal gain should really be adjustable in software, no need to mod electronics or even mechanics. I mean, if one had access to the software, either GT or the Fanatec firmware, it would be done in 15min.

Have you dared opening the pedal control box? wonder if there are adjustments possible. unlikely, but not ruled out.

 

[Groundfish]

@fastone371 I could see having to work with the angle in a rig like yours.
I’m using an upright seating position comparatively and my pedals are basically bolted flat to the floor so I don’t have that issue...Throttle for me works perfect, really doesn’t work different from dr2 ac or pc2 for me...? Could just be I’m used to it dunno.
@DoctorNuu
I’m not defending anything. I am just expressing my huge enjoyment from a well made quality product. I run 40-60 most times on brf across games, Most times...usually have the firmest pedal pads but sometimes run squishier ones on certain road cars, feels more natural.
GTS is what it is. I’ve been spending more and more time in dr2 and pc2 lately and the setup with these pedals really opened the door to those games for me...The way I drive potentiometer brake I had before made those feel impossible, now they are fantastic. If my pedals ever fail I might upgrade to clubsport to eliminate potentiometers entirely however the cost is higher and you can get replacement parts for csl elite much more economically...

 

[breeminator]

I run 40-60 most times on brf across games

The problem I had with the load cell in GTS was the game's non-linear response. Are you able to easily hit, say, 70%, 80%, 90% of the on-screen brake bar? I found that if I set the braking force low enough for it to not require a silly force to hit 100%, it was very difficult to accurately hit a specific level in the 70-90% range.

 

[Groundfish]

. Are you able to easily hit, say, 70%, 80%, 90% of the on-screen brake bar?

I’ve never sat there not driving playing with the brake bar, but in game on replay it shows me using very well modulated inputs and my lap times repeat very very well...I’m sure if I somehow made it a game to not drive close my eyes and try to hit brake bar numbers after a short time it wouldn’t be a problem but in actual fact I brake dynamically in game based on what I’m trying to do with the car, holds true for all games imo across the board load cell is almost the single best thing a person could add.
I feel with this csl lc I can get the exact input I want whenever I want that’s what makes it so great.
I never never was fully in control with a pot brake, I was never happy with that. Luckily I knew someone who is much more into sim than me and turned me on to it.
Absolutely no way I could go back. Zero.
Looking at my laps on certain tracks sometimes you can see the tiniest touch the resolution is fantastic imo.
Once you try it there’s no going back, there’s a reason Thrustmaster has a no potentiometer offering now as well and the reviews speak for themselves for people upgrading in gts.
Several say they have gone from midpack to winning a few.
I love my pedals, thanks to my friend who let me into this better tool for the job at a reasonable price!!!

 

[DoctorNuu]

The LC placebo effect...

I’ve never sat there not driving playing with the brake bar,

First thing I did after installing the LC was try and consistently brake at 25%, 50%, 75%. I failed. Not event talking about between 70% and 90%. As I said, I used low BRF settings like 20-30. Output was also dependent on where I pushed the pedal => sent it back.

 

[Groundfish]

The LC placebo effect...


First thing I did after installing the LC was try and consistently brake at 25%, 50%, 75%. I failed. Not event talking about between 70% and 90%. As I said, I used low BRF settings like 20-30. Output was also dependent on where I pushed the pedal => sent it back.

I can only conclude you are an uncoordinated person.
If I wanted to I could easily make a video showing how perfectly it works.
Have you ever driven a real car, or only played video games?

 

[DoctorNuu]

Premium post.

 

[breeminator]

First thing I did after installing the LC was try and consistently brake at 25%, 50%, 75%. I failed. Not event talking about between 70% and 90%. As I said, I used low BRF settings like 20-30. Output was also dependent on where I pushed the pedal => sent it back.

I've just swapped the electronics over to give my LC brake another try. It's exactly as I'd expect for a non-linear response curve designed around a rubber stop. Most of the force range is used up in the 0-50% range, just like with a rubber stop you're at 50% when you reach the rubber stop, having used up most of the travel range. You get to around 70% or so, and then just a tiny bit more force makes it shoot to 100%. This is because it's expecting a rubber stop to provide a massive increase in force for that last little bit of travel. IMO, for GTS, it's nowhere near as good as a properly set up rubber stop pedal. With the rubber stop, you're at 50% when you reach the rubber stop, then have a huge range of force to cover from there to 100%, providing really good control in the 70-100% range, whereas the load cell gives really good control in the 0-60% range, and poor control from 60-100%. Obviously it would be nice to have an option to linearly map the LC force, in which case it would be ideal, but as it stands, stuck with the non-linear response, I feel the rubber stop pedal gives more control in the most important part of the range.

 

[fastone371]

I have the Fanatec V3 load cell pedal. I dont know how there could be any improvement other than building a rig that uses real master cylinders with brake fluid and a balance bar. If you guys are having trouble with LC pedals my guess is that it is due to installation errors. The pedal set must be rotated correctly when viewed from the side. There is no way Fanatec could build this pedal set to work well in every mounting application. It took awhile for me to figure them out and fortunately I am a metal fabricator so I was able to modify my mount to get the pedals to work very effectively. If you are having trouble with LC pedals when you hit over 50% brake force you need to raise up the forward end of the pedal mount to rotate the pedals closer to your body. The problem you are having is that when braking 0-50% the brake pedal starts out perpendicular to the floor but when using 50-100% brake force the pedal arm is getting to close to parallel with the floor, this is exactly opposite of how you want brakes to work, you lose mechanical advantage at high force exactly when you need it the most. Have a look at the brake pedal in most cars, you will notice it is curved toward the driver, under minimal pedal force that curve effectively shortens the pedal so you have less mechanical advantage, as you step on the pedal harder the brake pedal swings in an arc effectively lengthening the brake pedal giving you more mechanical advantage and more detail at higher pressures.

 

[fastone371]

[QUOTE="DoctorNuu, post: 13115445, member: 310078"SER=296970]@fastone371[/USER] 30-50kg makes sense. Standard pedals?
The pedal gain should really be adjustable in software, no need to mod electronics or even mechanics. I mean, if one had access to the software, either GT or the Fanatec firmware, it would be done in 15min.

Have you dared opening the pedal control box? wonder if there are adjustments possible. unlikely, but not ruled out.[/QUOTE]

V3 LC pedals. I was referring to the accelerator pedal that I would like to mechanically modify to make it operate like a linear system unless someone has a simple way to do this electronically. For some reason Polyphony made the accelerator non linear in the game.

 

[breeminator]

I have the Fanatec V3 load cell pedal. I dont know how there could be any improvement other than building a rig that uses real master cylinders with brake fluid and a balance bar. If you guys are having trouble with LC pedals my guess is that it is due to installation errors. The pedal set must be rotated correctly when viewed from the side. There is no way Fanatec could build this pedal set to work well in every mounting application.

The problem is nothing to do with anything Fanatec did or installation, it's the game's non-linear response. It feels something like this:
0% = 0kg force
25% = 8kg force
50% =16kg force
70% = 18kg force
100% = 18.5kg force
that sort of thing. I assume the output from the pedal itself isn't causing this, rather the game's mapping of that output. The pedal arm is only moving through about 10 degrees from 0 to max braking, which isn't going to cause any significant change in how the force maps to pedal output.

 

[NSP525]

Running the ABS setting has helped me learn when I'm over doing it on braking zones. I still find braking in GTS to be inconsistent at times myself. I may try a higher BRF setting to increase the range of force I can exert onto the pedal before engaging ABS which seems to rob stopping power. The feel is night and day to when you brake properly vs over doing it, it's probably the hardest balance for me to maintain in this game personally. I'm running the softest washers with one mid washer as well, I like the foam washer personally as it lets me rest my foot on the pedal without worry of accidentally applying the brakes.

How many of you have set your deadzone and max pressure with the PC driver? Ive done it in the past but tbh not sure if I should be resetting those after a firmware update.

 

[super_gt]

V3 LC pedals. I was referring to the accelerator pedal that I would like to mechanically modify to make it operate like a linear system unless someone has a simple way to do this electronically. For some reason Polyphony made the accelerator non linear in the game.

Imagine doing this modification now for GTS and in the GT7 Polyphony choose to make the accelerator linear.

 

[DoctorNuu]

Imagine doing this modification now for GTS and in the GT7 Polyphony choose to make the accelerator linear.

I think it's a safe bet that there will be no big changes. As usual. Hope to be surprised.

 

[fastone371]

The problem is nothing to do with anything Fanatec did or installation, it's the game's non-linear response. It feels something like this:
0% = 0kg force
25% = 8kg force
50% =16kg force
70% = 18kg force
100% = 18.5kg force
that sort of thing. I assume the output from the pedal itself isn't causing this, rather the game's mapping of that output. The pedal arm is only moving through about 10 degrees from 0 to max braking, which isn't going to cause any significant change in how the force maps to pedal output.

The angle that the pedals are mounted in relation to driving position has a huge effect on effort required to reach max braking levels. In an earlier post I mentioned I had to run my BRF at 100 to be able to lock up tires on most cars, since I modified my rig and rolled the pedal assembly so that the top of the brake pedal moved closer to my body and pivot stayed in the same place I can easily reach max braking with BRF set at 30-50.
It was not a big deal to change this, I just machined some spacers to fit between my rig and the Fanatec pedal mount.

I have the standard Fanatec V3 load cell set, not the inverted set, mine are bottom pivot. I could see this being a problem with any LC pedal set, the manufacturer cannot build the pedal set to work well at variable mounting/seating angles.

 

[breeminator]

The angle that the pedals are mounted in relation to driving position has a huge effect on effort required to reach max braking levels. In an earlier post I mentioned I had to run my BRF at 100 to be able to lock up tires on most cars, since I modified my rig and rolled the pedal assembly so that the top of the brake pedal moved closer to my body and pivot stayed in the same place I can easily reach max braking with BRF set at 30-50.
It was not a big deal to change this, I just machined some spacers to fit between my rig and the Fanatec pedal mount.

I have the standard Fanatec V3 load cell set, not the inverted set, mine are bottom pivot. I could see this being a problem with any LC pedal set, the manufacturer cannot build the pedal set to work well at variable mounting/seating angles.

This simply isn't the problem, the problem is the non-linear mapping in the game. It's blindingly obvious when you use a rubber stop potentiometer pedal, where the non-linear mapping does exactly what you want. You reach the rubber stop, which is like 90% of the range of movement, and the bar is at 50%. You then have tremendous control over the 50% to 100% range because there is a huge difference in the force needed to reach the rubber stop vs the force needed to fully compress it. What I described for the load cell behaviour is just a result of it applying this same non-linear curve to the load cell output.

 

[Groundfish]

I dunno, all I know is my pedals modulate beautifully I can get the input level I need perfectly.
I’ve never hooked em up to a pc or anything, plug and play.
The usual argument people use when bashing gt sport is that they are slow because the game was designed around the ds4 triggers.
(Doesn’t make any sense to me they’d design it around a pedalset only a small minority of users have.)
That’s what most of the folks who are bound and determined to convince others the games designed wrong usually use as an excuse for their driving troubles.

 

[slthree]

Guys, @DomB_Fanatec is, or was, in these forums. Sometime back he joined one of these exact threads and he gave the proper settings for the CSL elite wheel and Gran Turismo Sport

I sent him a private message to thank him for the contribution and ask him for settings for project cars 2 as well. That’s not relevant to what I’m saying now but it’s the reason I will always buy Fanatec gear

Anyway, I am not really good at searching but it is in these forums and somebody who’s good at searching can find what he said quickly, I’m certain

 

[breeminator]

I dunno, all I know is my pedals modulate beautifully I can get the input level I need perfectly.
I’ve never hooked em up to a pc or anything, plug and play.
The usual argument people use when bashing gt sport is that they are slow because the game was designed around the ds4 triggers.
(Doesn’t make any sense to me they’d design it around a pedalset only a small minority of users have.)
That’s what most of the folks who are bound and determined to convince others the games designed wrong usually use as an excuse for their driving troubles.

It would also make it work well for the TGT, the official wheel.

You understand I'm not using it as an excuse? I have perfect braking behaviour with the potentiometer pedal, I'm not complaining about it at all. It's just so clear that the response is non-linear (in exactly the way needed to make a pedal with a rubber stop work well) that I don't know how anyone wouldn't be able to see it unless something is different about their setup. Are you saying that with your setup, the difference in force between 0% and 50% is the same as the difference in force between 50% and 100%? And the difference between 0% and 30% is the same as the difference between 70% and 100%?