Best settings for FANATEC CSL

  • Thread starter dejkoo
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I’m saying imo that load cell works very very well. It’s superior in every way to potentiometer period end of story.
I have ZERO issue getting ANY input percentage for ANY situation.
With load cell my times are on me, I’m not having to fight mechanical lash, travel, flex, or nonlinearly responding well worn or dirty potentiometers.
Personally I like the harder durometer pads, and I leave the small foam bit in as intended.
I think Thrustmaster knows that folks who put in lots of time and wear things out want something better also which is why their latest pedal offering does not utilize potentiometers on brake or throttle.
It’s just a better way imo. More realistic more intuitive better resolution, just better all around, but yes pricey.
Anyways y’all can knock yourselves out here. No more silly quibbling over this for me.
 
I don't have an issue with the load cell either personally, I never even tried the regular pedal that came with my CSL.

I find the biggest challenge is finding the threshold where your maximizing your grip, having optimal slip on the tire during braking and turn in is probably one of the hardest things in sim racing to do optimally and consistently imo. It's where I lose most of my time but it's still something I'm working on improving. With the abs vibration on 100 I try and reach that rumble point and then back out of it ever so slightly until I start trail braking into the corner.

Braking in sim racing is just one of those things that's hard to replicate when your not actually moving anywhere so I can see why some people are much more comfortable with using a POT pedal over a LC. I would imagine with the POT you can just put an artificial stop or shim in so you never get to the ABS activation point. I remember playing Forza 4 on 360 with controller and as long as you never squeezed the brake trigger 100% it was virtually impossible to lock up even with ABS off.
 
D3A76409-CCE7-4E9E-A3F0-0D1BC91874FC.png
This is the official recommendation from Dominick who works for Fanatec. I found it on Fanatec’s website.They have good support forums
 
breeminator
It would also make it work well for the TGT, the official wheel.

You understand I'm not using it as an excuse? I have perfect braking behaviour with the potentiometer pedal, I'm not complaining about it at all. It's just so clear that the response is non-linear (in exactly the way needed to make a pedal with a rubber stop work well) that I don't know how anyone wouldn't be able to see it unless something is different about their setup. Are you saying that with your setup, the difference in force between 0% and 50% is the same as the difference in force between 50% and 100%? And the difference between 0% and 30% is the same as the difference between 70% and 100%?
Click to expand...

If you think of how your brake pedal in your car feels while stopping that is how my LC pedal feels now that I have it mounted at the appropriate angle. It does not feel like my accelerator where 0-50% throttle opening uses 75% of available pedal travel and the last 50% of opening happens with the last 25% of pedal travel, it feels more linear. My problem though had nothing to do with brake mapping, the problem was that it required far too much pedal effort to stop, that issue was resolved with mounting angle. The problem with throttle map in GTS is very obvious, that will be the next issue I resolve.
 
slthree
View attachment 925063 This is the official recommendation from Dominick who works for Fanatec. I found it on Fanatec’s website.They have good support forums
Click to expand...

These are great for people just getting a CSL as they definitely give you a good starting point to experience GTS in a playable/enjoyable manor as far as FFB goes but can leave a lot to be desired once you start pushing beyond that entry level imo. Definitely a must try but I think the consensus among most of us is that in game sensitivity at 10 is better as the wheel feels more responsive and alive. All comes down to preference though, I really enjoyed the classic F1 car with those settings tbh.
 
Right, AND I am only a top 1 percent guy agreeing, AND one of the previous posters is way better than I am!
He’s shared videos slicing through the field at the game’s hardest circuits!
It’s not as if these posts are coming from low level players AT ALL.
 
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slthree
I was simply trying to help

I certainly hope it makes you feel better about yourself to have responded this way
Click to expand...

I certainly hope it makes you feel better about yourself to have responded this way too... since I doubt you don´t understand what this means... (one million years ago the Firmware was ... a dinosaur... not surelly the last one... very far from it...) :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
Mirror_man
I certainly hope it makes you feel better about yourself to have responded this way too... since I doubt you don´t understand what this means... (one million years ago the Firmware was ... a dinosaur... not surelly the last one... very far from it...) :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
Click to expand...

Those settings at least provide usable ffb unlike your one ounce inch torque setting!
Those settings are exactly what they say they are!
Yours just turn off ffb entirely! Useless! Good settings on this game like Dominick’s and moving beyond that to dri off and sensitivity ten have the effect on good players like a great song does to Steve Wutabi, it prevents us from making big mistakes as shown here...
 
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I think something has changed in the game since Fanatec published the settings above. I used to find Dri -02 was needed to stop wheel oscillation, but now it's fine with Dri off. Maybe this happened with the game version that reduced the strength of the understeer effect?
 
Really, to me, when it comes to threads on the internet when you know what you’re talking about it really does become like this video. Truth rings out like beautiful music and angry hordes try to shout it down with nonsense, then you got like the clean cut guy just laughing his butt off in the middle of it. You gotta rise above it like Steve Wutabi and make up your own mind...
Good settings for you are good, no matter what anyone says, no matter what viewpoint or control method you use.
 
Some hardware "settings" people might find useful:

  1. Shifter paddle extension (for shorter fingers)
  2. Turn off rev lights (less distraction)
  3. Very thick grip tape to make for a slightly higher and more comfortable thumb rest (also anti-blister)
Wheel mod.jpg
 
First post ,so Hello to all community members
From my own experience the Fanatec load cell has never been the same since the update to adjust the pedal dead zones
Killed em alright coz never been able to brake the same since , even had the flashing abs light
Makes a whole mockery how a ds4 L2 button can be on par with a load cell ?
Roll on ACC
MUYA TS666 \m/\m/
 
I'm hoping that if the CSL works with the PS5 PD will have a better idea on how it works. It took GT Sport alot of updates to make the wheel even worth using at first. Hoping GT7 it will be a really good wheel to use. I still have problems finding when the car hooks up and grips and when it loses grip because of how the game is with force feedback
 
I have ordered the Truebrake from AXC-Sim to upgrade my G29. Looking forward to the improved braking response... I know for a fact that my own habits are working against me and additive to the error that exists within the stock setup, and as I rely heavily on precise trail braking in my Porsches, I am really optimistic that this will help.

That said, I can't wait to convince myself to invest in the Fanatec CSL setup... I have no doubt that the pedal precision and the improved steering feel will translate into tenths or more speed.

I have worked as a brake engineer at a major OEM in my past professional life, and specifically focused on brake feel in performance models, so I am looking forward to testing my calibrated foot again, even if the calibrated backside is not part of the equation in the sim setup!
 
KosmoKazi
I have ordered the Truebrake from AXC-Sim to upgrade my G29. Looking forward to the improved braking response... I know for a fact that my own habits are working against me and additive to the error that exists within the stock setup, and as I rely heavily on precise trail braking in my Porsches, I am really optimistic that this will help.

That said, I can't wait to convince myself to invest in the Fanatec CSL setup... I have no doubt that the pedal precision and the improved steering feel will translate into tenths or more speed.

I have worked as a brake engineer at a major OEM in my past professional life, and specifically focused on brake feel in performance models, so I am looking forward to testing my calibrated foot again, even if the calibrated backside is not part of the equation in the sim setup!
Click to expand...

Interesting stuff about your previous brake experience. I am a metal fabricator, the bulk of my work is drag race chassis' with some road race stuff, street car and street rod cars and 1 CORR 2 wd off road truck. I have a Fanatec CSL with a V3 load cell brake and I like it but I think it could be much better. One problem is I think Fanatec should offer an easy way of adjusting the angles on the pedals. It's a big difference if someone is using this set up clamped to a desk vs using in a driving rig. I built my own rig and the seating position is similar to what you would expect to see in a performance car or a race car. A high close wheel and a low butt with your feet slightly lower. I had an issue where I had to have my brake setting at 100% on my wheel, its adjustable from 1%-100%. It always required a lot of leg effort to stop, so much so that I started wearing one of my racing shoes on my left foot. After a while of thinking about it it dawned on me that the problem was the angle in which the pedals were mounted, I rolled the pedal assembly so that the pedal pads were closer to me and the pivots were farther away (it's a floor pivot assembly) This stood the pedal arms up more vertical, now I race with my brake settings between 20%-40% instead of 100%. I can see where if I was using a desk and chair that the pedal angle would have been fine as is. It also seems as though the brakes on the game are non linear like the throttle which makes braking more difficult than it should. I'm thinking about building a pedal set that uses a real master cylinder. I could also fabricate throttle linkage to make it work like it was linear in game, I'm sure you must have dealt with that stuff in your previous career.
 
Yeah, first upgrade if you get the CSL would be pedals. The stock set (without the load cell) work great for me in ACC, but with how the ABS works in this game, they leave a lot to be desired.

@fastone371, I might try what you did with the pedals. Especially because I find myself driving with my toes many times due to the angle I have them now.
 

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NSP525
I don't have an issue with the load cell either personally, I never even tried the regular pedal that came with my CSL.

I find the biggest challenge is finding the threshold where your maximizing your grip, having optimal slip on the tire during braking and turn in is probably one of the hardest things in sim racing to do optimally and consistently imo. It's where I lose most of my time but it's still something I'm working on improving. With the abs vibration on 100 I try and reach that rumble point and then back out of it ever so slightly until I start trail braking into the corner.

Braking in sim racing is just one of those things that's hard to replicate when your not actually moving anywhere so I can see why some people are much more comfortable with using a POT pedal over a LC. I would imagine with the POT you can just put an artificial stop or shim in so you never get to the ABS activation point. I remember playing Forza 4 on 360 with controller and as long as you never squeezed the brake trigger 100% it was virtually impossible to lock up even with ABS off.
Click to expand...

Same, never tested the base pedal. I had the V1’s prior and returning to a potentiometer despite all the failures of the V1 load cell/dying a lot, there was no going back. It’s load cell or nothing.

For balancing threshold, IMO it’s about boosting the feel of information while keeping clarity. Some like to run a high FEI value, but for me it introduces a lot of noise with the clanking that’s also causing the noise. The noise isn’t a issue as I wear IEM’s so I’m completely immersed on a audio level. But that rattle you hear in videos, you can physically feel that in the wheel and it’s distracting.

A real car doesn’t do that. So I keep my FEI around 20-30, usually 20. Any higher and I get that rattle mid corner. I know some say they don’t get that, maybe it’s driving style. Dunno.

I run higher force on wheel (90-100)and higher in game settings 5-6/10to give me details on what the tires are doing. During a race I’m typically braking a little sooner and just balancing by feel on entry. I’ll also do a bit of a shimmy technique with the wheel in tight battles that gives me info on how much grip I have and enables me to switch my line mid corner without losing momentum. I picked that up from the old Makinen video on Best Motoring.

The most important function of FFB is to give you information on what the grip levels are. That’s to me, is the most important/critical foundation.

Try a lower ABS setting. I have mine at around 70-80% depending on the car. I find myself keeping a better balance of the chassis on corner entry.

 
Deadpool
Same, never tested the base pedal. I had the V1’s prior and returning to a potentiometer despite all the failures of the V1 load cell/dying a lot, there was no going back. It’s load cell or nothing.

For balancing threshold, IMO it’s about boosting the feel of information while keeping clarity. Some like to run a high FEI value, but for me it introduces a lot of noise with the clanking that’s also causing the noise. The noise isn’t a issue as I wear IEM’s so I’m completely immersed on a audio level. But that rattle you hear in videos, you can physically feel that in the wheel and it’s distracting.

A real car doesn’t do that. So I keep my FEI around 20-30, usually 20. Any higher and I get that rattle mid corner. I know some say they don’t get that, maybe it’s driving style. Dunno.

I run higher force on wheel (90-100)and higher in game settings 5-6/10to give me details on what the tires are doing. During a race I’m typically braking a little sooner and just balancing by feel on entry. I’ll also do a bit of a shimmy technique with the wheel in tight battles that gives me info on how much grip I have and enables me to switch my line mid corner without losing momentum. I picked that up from the old Makinen video on Best Motoring.

The most important function of FFB is to give you information on what the grip levels are. That’s to me, is the most important/critical foundation.

Try a lower ABS setting. I have mine at around 70-80% depending on the car. I find myself keeping a better balance of the chassis on corner entry.

Click to expand...

I agree with your approach. I turned the force up on my Logitech G29 right away for that same reason... the more info to work with, the better!


fastone371
Interesting stuff about your previous brake experience. ...

I could also fabricate throttle linkage to make it work like it was linear in game, I'm sure you must have dealt with that stuff in your previous career.
Click to expand...

yeah, I hadn’t thought of it before, but one of the things I worked on a lot was objectively measuring brake “feel” both to improve the production cars and to benchmark why certain cars rated better, even when the measured performance was not. So we developed a simple force and travel measurement system and some standard analysis tool to try to “see” what the good cars‘ brakes looked like, to serve as targets for new program. We’d get the anecdotal feedback from customers, target market buyers, and paid big name drivers, then show the data to either substantiate the info or to show how there may be other things that played into the perceptions (like front suspension pitch characteristics under braking).

And I remember one of the best rated cars was the RX-7, which had a dead stiff pedal but was pretty linear. It stuck out like a sore thumb when plotted against Corvettes, Mustangs, and the like. So I’m thinking the Truebrake pedal mod will provide a big improvement compared to the cheap setup in the G29.
 
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HaydenFan69
Yeah, first upgrade if you get the CSL would be pedals. The stock set (without the load cell) work great for me in ACC, but with how the ABS works in this game, they leave a lot to be desired.

@fastone371, I might try what you did with the pedals. Especially because I find myself driving with my toes many times due to the angle I have them now.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was pretty staggered by the difference it made when I rotated my pedals but it makes sense and with no adjustability they cant make them work well in all seating situations.
 
Hi

I've just updated my wheel with the latest firmware. What does "bL1" mean?

Also, I'm thinking of buying the V3 inverted pedals. I currectly have the standard load cell pedals. Does anyone here have the inverted V3s and could comment on whether they are worth the money?

Thanks
 
DelboyD
Hi

I've just updated my wheel with the latest firmware. What does "bL1" mean?

Also, I'm thinking of buying the V3 inverted pedals. I currectly have the standard load cell pedals. Does anyone here have the inverted V3s and could comment on whether they are worth the money?

Thanks
Click to expand...

What firmware is out now? I'm still running whatever I mentioned in my last post regarding firmware.

I don't have an answer for bl1 though I think it was mentioned previously in this thread.
 
Groundfish
Aside from that added effect available did you notice any difference in ffb in GTS after updating?
Click to expand...

Nope. I didn't notice anything different with old settings. I've turned the damper down a bit from 100 as I thought it made my turn in a bit sharper.
 

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