Biggest tuning secret! Rear toe!

  • Thread starter NjLowrider
  • 100 comments
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budious
You know it's real easy because if the stock suspension is:

RH 0/0
SR 4.0/3.0
Dampers 1
Anti-Roll Bar 1
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.20

Then just port all those numbers over to the fully custom suspension:

RH 0/0
SR 4.0/3.0
Ext: 1/1
Com: 1/1
Anti-roll: 1/1
Camber: 0.0/0.0
Toe: 0.00/0.20

Test both setups, you should get identical lap times from both kits. I have tested this already and this is how it works. Afterwards, set the dampers and extension and compression 2, and then 3, while keeping anti-roll bar at 1. You can determine how much better the car drives with just those simple adjustments. The dampers setting in the height adjustable kit is just a hard-lock pairing of extension and compression with the range locked to 1-3. You can replicate the similar handling and lap times following this same test procedure. The grayed out numbers are the real stock numbers for these cars as PD has programmed them to behave according to their game physics, not real world physics.

Will do so tomorrow for sure, that's basically the quick test I've done, but I did it quick and just left the damper as is and tested the real world settings for a comparison. I'll adjust the dampers then get more seat time when I'm not half passing out.

I'll get a lot more extensive tomorrow, thanks for the testing advice, much appreciate good means of hands on testing.
 
GrimSinn
I've got the ZR1 wheel alignment specs in front of me. The greyed out settings displayed under stock suspensions ONLY after buying a aftermarket suspension is NOT what the cars use in real life.

Stock real world ZR1

Toe F/R
.10/.10

Camber F/R
-1.00/-1.20

In the game it's 0 a toe/camber except for the mostly generic -.20 rear toe.

I'm going to run some test demain cause I'm tired, but I find it hard to believe PD would use such generic suspension settings. It seems more likely that the settings greyed out are NOT used when the car is stock but rather generic after modifying.

It's gonna be me & 3 ZR1 set-ups 1 will be default stock ZR1 nothing bought for it nothing installed, then one with a tunable suspension but using the real world settings (as best as I can simulate) then a tuned suspension using the greyed out settings under stock suspension.

Well I never said they were real world, just what the game was using as stock. Also, I have noticed the majority of cars ingame seem to use the same default toe setting even on the stock suspensions.
 
No worried Mate, I was wrong in assuming PD was really giving a true representation of the cars suspension (maybe they are, just running the settings from a loaded suspension not pre-loaded, but that's another debate) either way the greyed out settings are what is used in stock. Cheers!
 
i have tested toe and putting for toe like .25 gives you more grip, if your car launches perfect now put toe on it and watch it bog.
 
I guess it is easy to understand why the fully tunable suspensions have a generic .20 toe in the rear. We are not driving as a daily driver would do, on ordinary roads, thereby the stock settings are absolutly worthless. Also there are as many possible solutions on how to go fast arround a track, as it is drivers/players. Brake points and brakebalance, understear or overstear, ABS or not, traction control or not, etc., etc..

I uses a lot of negative camber in the rear, and positive up front, but I know that I'm not getting the best out of my cars. Also, it shouldn't suprice anyone that I do better with 4wd, then equal MR cars, like in TT16. When it comes to toe, I think the best thing is to do as mentioned earlier in this thread, find a generic toe for the different FF, FR, MR, 4WD cars, and finetune from that starting point. To begin Your finetuning from .20 will take a lot of time. It's better to start from neutral, but even better to listen to those that have found a workable startingpoint. It just saves You a lot of work.

I will forsure try to tune my drives using the info I got in here. What the car would have been in real life ain't that interessting, as I'm not "racing" my real cars. Just drive them hard.:)
 
most cars come with a bit of toe in because it keeps the car going straight. anyone quoting "stock" numbers needs to provide a link or documentation. having worked at an auto repair shop that did allignments i can tell you that there is a slight toe in most cars and this is before the owner decides to munch a rim on a curb in the local drive thru. furthermore, i have yet to see a car that is not modified in some way that comes stock with camber of any sort. in fact, it may even be illeagal to do so as it would negate the dot certifications. of the tires rims and car. there are acceptions to this for certain limited production cars that can be driven on the road, however, having done many warranty repairs, i can assure you that if you tyres even look like they have been driven on a lowered car ( without a "camber kit" which causes camber and uneven tirewear), more investigation is done to ensure that the transmission that your car is having replaced, was not broken by the owner slamming the car and throwing on 13" daytons then going to the local drag strip to (see what this baby will do".
last thing, i also was privilaged enough to work on a race team that ran a porsche gt3 rsr. they didn't measure toe, camber, spring rate, ride height, caster, differential settings, in measurements like this. there are generally adjustments that are very easy to make and really difficult to make. none of these were measured by static units. static units are a bit pointless anyway because no two cars are the same and even if they are they wouldnt be after you drove them so arguing about "stock" measurements is a bit fruitless especially when it comes to things like ride complience and adjustment. just to measure, say, the toe on a car you would need a very expensive allignment rig that will, if your lucky, tell you if a wheel is off and by approximately how many degrees in which direction.
this is not to say that gt5 has unrealistic stock settings. honestly, i could care less as long as adjusments can be made, are consistent, and most importantly do what they logically should do in real life. doing this programatically is very difficult without building in ways to cheat or otherwise exploit the formulas and alogrythems to get a tune that is unrealistically good (like full camber on all cars was in one of the forza games). lastly the only racing class that i know of that has liteally any gear ratio at a cars disposal is formula1 and the teams have decided to stop that to cut cost so consider yourselves lucky. you can make more adjustments to your car than an f1 team.
 
most cars come with a bit of toe in because it keeps the car going straight. anyone quoting "stock" numbers needs to provide a link or documentation. having worked at an auto repair shop that did allignments i can tell you that there is a slight toe in most cars and this is before the owner decides to munch a rim on a curb in the local drive thru. furthermore, i have yet to see a car that is not modified in some way that comes stock with camber of any sort. in fact, it may even be illeagal to do so as it would negate the dot certifications. of the tires rims and car. there are acceptions to this for certain limited production cars that can be driven on the road, however, having done many warranty repairs, i can assure you that if you tyres even look like they have been driven on a lowered car ( without a "camber kit" which causes camber and uneven tirewear), more investigation is done to ensure that the transmission that your car is having replaced, was not broken by the owner slamming the car and throwing on 13" daytons then going to the local drag strip to (see what this baby will do".
last thing, i also was privilaged enough to work on a race team that ran a porsche gt3 rsr. they didn't measure toe, camber, spring rate, ride height, caster, differential settings, in measurements like this. there are generally adjustments that are very easy to make and really difficult to make. none of these were measured by static units. static units are a bit pointless anyway because no two cars are the same and even if they are they wouldnt be after you drove them so arguing about "stock" measurements is a bit fruitless especially when it comes to things like ride complience and adjustment. just to measure, say, the toe on a car you would need a very expensive allignment rig that will, if your lucky, tell you if a wheel is off and by approximately how many degrees in which direction.
this is not to say that gt5 has unrealistic stock settings. honestly, i could care less as long as adjusments can be made, are consistent, and most importantly do what they logically should do in real life. doing this programatically is very difficult without building in ways to cheat or otherwise exploit the formulas and alogrythems to get a tune that is unrealistically good (like full camber on all cars was in one of the forza games). lastly the only racing class that i know of that has liteally any gear ratio at a cars disposal is formula1 and the teams have decided to stop that to cut cost so consider yourselves lucky. you can make more adjustments to your car than an f1 team.

I'm not sure what justifies ignoring your post more. Your inability to use proper grammar and structure, or the fact that you're 8 months late to the discussion.
 
Ok I'll help everyone out. Rear toe is the key with any car.

Start flat at 0!

Then if it oversteers like a NSX, give it some toe like .04 to keep it straight.

If it understeers and you want it to turn sharper like a Supra or Civic give it a -.4.

Makes any car corner just fine tune it.

There is a lot in here about adjusting toe to fix understeer and/or oversteer while cornering. But I've driven a few cars that understeer while entering the corner and oversteer while exiting. So adjusting the toe to fix oversteer on exit will cause more problems with understeer entering the corner. I've adjusted the LSD settings to help this out a touch, but I can't figure out what to do about adjusting the toe to fix the problem with cornering, both on exit and entrance. Please help. Thanks in advance.
 
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