CHEAP Cockpit Alternatives ONLY
- Thread starter mnarciso
- 1,923 comments
- 1,584,430 views
http://clarksynthesis.com/
Thats the silver model. I had a 100w aiwa sub to gut for an amp so i had the choice of this or a couple of aura pros. Unfortunatly when you take into account shipping to nz they work out to be a similar and very high price. The clark sells for $135US. Butkickers cost way way way more by the time they get to new zealand and id have to pay for an amp as well.
The auras arnt as powerful. The clark puts out 2.2lbf per watt. The clark has a much better feedback response as well (comparing to cheap vest aura with its amp) I mean as in the quality of the feedback and types of feelings you can get. The aura felt more like a more powerful controler rumble over a whole seat. With the clark watching a trailer i could feel individual guns fireing sharply at the same time as a tank rumbles by and a building gets demolished. So everything is more clear and defined.
Their platinum model is made for under floors or risers in theatres
Thats the silver model. I had a 100w aiwa sub to gut for an amp so i had the choice of this or a couple of aura pros. Unfortunatly when you take into account shipping to nz they work out to be a similar and very high price. The clark sells for $135US. Butkickers cost way way way more by the time they get to new zealand and id have to pay for an amp as well.
The auras arnt as powerful. The clark puts out 2.2lbf per watt. The clark has a much better feedback response as well (comparing to cheap vest aura with its amp) I mean as in the quality of the feedback and types of feelings you can get. The aura felt more like a more powerful controler rumble over a whole seat. With the clark watching a trailer i could feel individual guns fireing sharply at the same time as a tank rumbles by and a building gets demolished. So everything is more clear and defined.
Their platinum model is made for under floors or risers in theatres
hey guys,
this is my cheap as cockpit, the MDF was about $60, most of the time went into the design, I already had all the tools, Drill press, Router, Bench saw sander.
The seat wasnt that cheap with rails it was around $350. im guessing that most of us will know how much the G25 is! As for the Frex meter (which will not work with PS2/PS3
) and the MOMO was not cheap!! but it is cool with PC games 
this is my cheap as cockpit, the MDF was about $60, most of the time went into the design, I already had all the tools, Drill press, Router, Bench saw sander.
The seat wasnt that cheap with rails it was around $350. im guessing that most of us will know how much the G25 is! As for the Frex meter (which will not work with PS2/PS3
) and the MOMO was not cheap!! but it is cool with PC games Attachments
Quickly threw that on so i can play forza for now. Unfortunatly that means playing games instead of finishing the cockpit
The shelf has a recess where the g25 slots in and is flush with the wood. When i say dash i mean that i will continue along the height of the wheel to the sides and fill in around the shifter so its all one piece.
There is an armrest which i havnt built yet that continues from the shifter past the seat. At least this gives me a basic idea of what to do in the finished version. As ive allready found i cant use one shelf to fit both wheels. The ms wheel is super high. So high that lowering it to a point thats comfortable makes leg room a bit nasty if you use the clamp. And theres no way im drilling it as it feels like it will break if i look at it funny so i want the warrenty.
Quickly threw that on so i can play forza for now. Unfortunatly that means playing games instead of finishing the cockpit
The shelf has a recess where the g25 slots in and is flush with the wood. When i say dash i mean that i will continue along the height of the wheel to the sides and fill in around the shifter so its all one piece.
There is an armrest which i havnt built yet that continues from the shifter past the seat. At least this gives me a basic idea of what to do in the finished version. As ive allready found i cant use one shelf to fit both wheels. The ms wheel is super high. So high that lowering it to a point thats comfortable makes leg room a bit nasty if you use the clamp. And theres no way im drilling it as it feels like it will break if i look at it funny so i want the warrenty.
nice man, i like that you have adjustability in yours, that is the main thing mine lacks, the only thing I can adjust is the seat, I had planed to make mine more adjustable but that hasn’t happened yet! It is comfy for me to use so that’s all that matters I guess
- 2,048
- Toronto, Ontario, Canada
- MastrGT
Thanks, Waxer! That last picture helps a lot. I'm thinking that it would be a good idea to experiment here with ABS plastic rather than metal. Once the design works, then I could consider metal tubing.
I was hoping for something a bit more substantial for the pedals, but you have more than one wheels, so maybe that's all you can do, for now.
I also really appreciate your feedback about the Clark/Aura speaker differences. I've been looking at both and wondered what the practical differences were, so it helped that you put it into words. The cheapest Clark in Canada seems to be about $200CDN with shipping included, but the Aura is significantly cheaper, maybe $80 in Canada. I haven't got a firm Canadian price yet, but it seems like a false-economy product from what little I've read about them.
I'm still curious about how to drive them, since I don't have an amp with a pre-amp output that Clark recommends in their installation manuals. How did you do it?
Cheers,
MasterGT
I was hoping for something a bit more substantial for the pedals, but you have more than one wheels, so maybe that's all you can do, for now.
I also really appreciate your feedback about the Clark/Aura speaker differences. I've been looking at both and wondered what the practical differences were, so it helped that you put it into words. The cheapest Clark in Canada seems to be about $200CDN with shipping included, but the Aura is significantly cheaper, maybe $80 in Canada. I haven't got a firm Canadian price yet, but it seems like a false-economy product from what little I've read about them.
I'm still curious about how to drive them, since I don't have an amp with a pre-amp output that Clark recommends in their installation manuals. How did you do it?
Cheers,
MasterGT
When hooking up the clark i used my aiwa sub box(i need to replace that grill/cover)
It allows me to adjust volume and freq. I never turn it above 60hz anyway. I can also turn it on off easilly from where i sit and the sub amp has an auto on if i prefered to do it that way.
Ive got a y split cable from my main amps sub out, to both the actual sub and the aiwa/clark.
^^^^ thats the rear post for my armrest. The front onw is lower so it goes horizontal then angles down. That way it will look good even with the front all removed.
Having played with it some more im really starting to appreciate the difference. I guess you get what you pay for. Only pumping 100w in is a bit of a bother in that i have to turn the main volume up to get the shaker really going. I tried it with music and man is it powerfull. Id never want it like that while the steering wheels are attached. My poor ms wheel wasnt sounding to happy with all its internals shaking like mad Depending on what that plastic is like you may get some creaking at high volumes.
One thing to note about the clarks is that they are a very strong magnet so puting electrical equipment against it or your watch when handling it isnt a good idea.
For the pedal mount i think ill use this.
Its a stainless steel eftpos terminal rack. The front/larger edge originally held the card swiping main unit and the other the pad for pin numbers etc (supposed to sit on store counter(in this case a bar, soon to be restaurant my mother just bought as we all work in the family business of restaurants) Ill probably cut the smaller side bracket so I can get/attach it closer to the front bar. Then ill make up a peice of wood that slots in for each of the sets of pedals and attach those to the bottoms of each set. Universal and tidy.
It allows me to adjust volume and freq. I never turn it above 60hz anyway. I can also turn it on off easilly from where i sit and the sub amp has an auto on if i prefered to do it that way.
Ive got a y split cable from my main amps sub out, to both the actual sub and the aiwa/clark.
^^^^ thats the rear post for my armrest. The front onw is lower so it goes horizontal then angles down. That way it will look good even with the front all removed.
Having played with it some more im really starting to appreciate the difference. I guess you get what you pay for. Only pumping 100w in is a bit of a bother in that i have to turn the main volume up to get the shaker really going. I tried it with music and man is it powerfull. Id never want it like that while the steering wheels are attached. My poor ms wheel wasnt sounding to happy with all its internals shaking like mad
Depending on what that plastic is like you may get some creaking at high volumes.One thing to note about the clarks is that they are a very strong magnet so puting electrical equipment against it or your watch when handling it isnt a good idea.
Not a problem. I had the same problem in that places like avs are really pro aura and never give an example like that. Its really frustrating when the best you can get is "oh yeah the clarks are better but cost more as well"
I do have plans for most things and Im slowly getting there.
For the pedal mount i think ill use this.
Its a stainless steel eftpos terminal rack. The front/larger edge originally held the card swiping main unit and the other the pad for pin numbers etc (supposed to sit on store counter(in this case a bar, soon to be restaurant my mother just bought as we all work in the family business of restaurants) Ill probably cut the smaller side bracket so I can get/attach it closer to the front bar. Then ill make up a peice of wood that slots in for each of the sets of pedals and attach those to the bottoms of each set. Universal and tidy.
opelgt1969
Premium
- 2,237
- Bristol,Va USA
- opelgt1969
designed a wheel holder today, any tips?
it is 4 feet long, and a few feet high
Can't really tell where your planning on putting the wheel at? If it's on the flat front part up front I don't think you will have room for the pedals. That might be for you TV, you will want to make it so as to getting out is easy (not having to climb).
- 977
ok, ill make a little bit of help,
this should clear things up a bit.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1205/untitledaq3.png
This design is imparactical IMO, but i just drew something up.
When I make mine, it will be much more simple. like a few pages back, shows a man with his foot on the dead pedal, and stuff
EDIt heres the pic.
Kris Radke's
this should clear things up a bit.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1205/untitledaq3.png
This design is imparactical IMO, but i just drew something up.
When I make mine, it will be much more simple. like a few pages back, shows a man with his foot on the dead pedal, and stuff
EDIt heres the pic.
Kris Radke's
- 2,048
- Toronto, Ontario, Canada
- MastrGT
Your design is impractical because of the seat position being so far away from the wheel. If you compare it to the photo you included with the dead pedal, you should get a better idea of how close the wheel should be to you.
When your wrist is on the top of the wheel, your arm should still be bent a bit. If you tried to do the same thing with your drawing's seat position, you'd have to lean forward a lot to do that.
If the TV is supposed to be sitting above the wheel, it is way too high.
So, my tip is work on the dimensions. It will save you a lot of hassle later.
Cheers,
MasterGT
- 45
- SlideFreak
opelgt1969
Premium
- 2,237
- Bristol,Va USA
- opelgt1969
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opelgt1969
Premium
- 2,237
- Bristol,Va USA
- opelgt1969
My first try at uploading didn't work so I tried again
- 325
Hi Guys!
It's been a while since I've been to the thread. Just wanted to warn you guys regarding placing the LCD monitor/tv on the same platform as the DFP or any wheel with FFB. I was informed by my friend at a local appliance store that the vibrations on the platform can cause issues with the LCD after extended periods. Some things you should look out for are dead pixels, flickering of the whole screen or the backlight when the FFB kicks in, etc.
Though this shouldn't be a problem with higher end or newer models, it is still not recommended.
It's been a while since I've been to the thread. Just wanted to warn you guys regarding placing the LCD monitor/tv on the same platform as the DFP or any wheel with FFB. I was informed by my friend at a local appliance store that the vibrations on the platform can cause issues with the LCD after extended periods. Some things you should look out for are dead pixels, flickering of the whole screen or the backlight when the FFB kicks in, etc.
Though this shouldn't be a problem with higher end or newer models, it is still not recommended.
this is what i use, i simply pull the draws out, and turn the tv around and i have an instant cockpit in a kinda small room that is basically always setup, the pedals constantly sit under the draws.
i seen that bloke that used the footrest thing, and then uses both pedals with his right foot. is this how most of you do it, or do you use your left foot to brake??? i found that after using my left foot to break from playing with the wheel, i can now break with my left foot in all cars, barring the pedal placement isnt awkard, it is now second nature. has anyone else found this???
i seen that bloke that used the footrest thing, and then uses both pedals with his right foot. is this how most of you do it, or do you use your left foot to brake??? i found that after using my left foot to break from playing with the wheel, i can now break with my left foot in all cars, barring the pedal placement isnt awkard, it is now second nature. has anyone else found this???
Attachments
Here is my cheapo gaming/racing chair - a simple mod of my old Ikea 'Poang' armchair.
All parts except bolts and nuts are from Ikea including the shelf and brackets.
'Table' is removable in about 10 secs and is fully height and reach adjustable. I need it to be removable as I need it to be tidy. My design means I can put the chair back in its usual place and stick the wheel/shelf in a cupboard when not in use.
DFP is used for GT3/4, GTR2, and GTL (Media Centre under TV). Pedals are just propped up on a box of Jenga at the moment. Getting pedals secured properly is next on my list. I'll also stain the wood to match that of the chair.
All parts except bolts and nuts are from Ikea including the shelf and brackets.
'Table' is removable in about 10 secs and is fully height and reach adjustable. I need it to be removable as I need it to be tidy. My design means I can put the chair back in its usual place and stick the wheel/shelf in a cupboard when not in use.
DFP is used for GT3/4, GTR2, and GTL (Media Centre under TV). Pedals are just propped up on a box of Jenga at the moment. Getting pedals secured properly is next on my list. I'll also stain the wood to match that of the chair.
And what is your concept on what the finished pedal prop should look like?
- 4,498
- Limburg,Belgium
- (GTP_) dustdriver
Finally i have a 24" screen
You can see the blue light from the ps2's vertical stand.
To dark on the picture, but there's a subwoofer next to it.
Also have 2 back speakers, but you obviously can't see them in the pic.
You can see the blue light from the ps2's vertical stand.
To dark on the picture, but there's a subwoofer next to it.
Also have 2 back speakers, but you obviously can't see them in the pic.
- 3,770
- Boss-Barracuda
I finally somewhat finished my cockpit. Because i have a new gaming chair (I regret selling the old one 
) and i couldn't use the wooden stand I made for the chair I sold, I had to make something a bit more permanent.
Old setup
The only thing from the setup above that is used in my new setup is the board for the G25 wheel and the shifter stand. With the new chair being too wide and curved for the chair stand (as i stated before), it was a good 3-5 inches lower, making the steering wheel placement extremely annoying. How I solved this was by creating a 2 inch rise for the shifter stand. The board was then screwed into both the riser and a support consisting of two 2x4's for the other side.
I like the new setup i have a lot. it's a lot easier to put away, and looks about 10x better. The only downside that i have found is that the support wobbles a bit, but a simple T brace at the bottom will solve that problem.
Will post pics later (im at work
)
) and i couldn't use the wooden stand I made for the chair I sold, I had to make something a bit more permanent.Old setup
Click for full size
The only thing from the setup above that is used in my new setup is the board for the G25 wheel and the shifter stand. With the new chair being too wide and curved for the chair stand (as i stated before), it was a good 3-5 inches lower, making the steering wheel placement extremely annoying. How I solved this was by creating a 2 inch rise for the shifter stand. The board was then screwed into both the riser and a support consisting of two 2x4's for the other side.
I like the new setup i have a lot. it's a lot easier to put away, and looks about 10x better. The only downside that i have found is that the support wobbles a bit, but a simple T brace at the bottom will solve that problem.
Will post pics later (im at work
)
- 203
Hi everyone,
There's some interesting stuff that people are building on here. This is what I'm currently putting together. Hopefully I'll have finished the build by the weekend and can start to paint and varnish it and then start to use it ... I've just bought a Buttkicker to mount under the seat as well and am looking forward to trying the thing out. Let me know what you think ....
- UPDATE
Hmmm .... trouble with attaching pictures . I'll sort this out soon.
There's some interesting stuff that people are building on here. This is what I'm currently putting together. Hopefully I'll have finished the build by the weekend and can start to paint and varnish it and then start to use it ... I've just bought a Buttkicker to mount under the seat as well and am looking forward to trying the thing out. Let me know what you think ....
- UPDATE
Hmmm .... trouble with attaching pictures . I'll sort this out soon.
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