Convince me I should change to Traction Control 0

[Scaff]

Hi Scaff,

That's why I have weiteren MOST instead of all.

In Most Road Cars you can get big Problems With TC and ABS Systems when driving hard on Tracks (and you should only do IT there) If you don't Update them or reprogram then. Many VW MEB Cars are Bad examples - they understeer very much With ABS and cannot Show their real "Potential". Another examples - where IT IS opposite are Opel/Vauxhall Corsa VX/OPC - they are so overpowered for their Chassis - they are faster nearly everywhere With activated assisting systems.

But what one must Always consider is: when you deactivate them all - have you Tires on, that still allow you good braking and are you in the mood and conditions to completely immerse yourself into driving. Because - every Inch of lost concentration will cost you Lots of time.

BR K

'Most' cars are not quicker with TC and ABS off, particularly road cars, but with 25 years in the motor industry what would I know!

The vast majority of drivers do not have the required level of skill or training to out perform modern active driving aids, so while for drivers who can consistently maintain the optimum slip angles/percentages they can be quicker, for the majority that's not going to be the case. And in an increasing number of cases even those drivers are quicker with aids switched on (again see GT3 cars).

As an example, I've driven a range of AMG Mercs on MB's dollar, and while they are more entertaining with TC switched off (if you want to kill tyres), they are unquestionably quicker using multi-stage TC systems (and that's before you start looking at ASM systems, which GT pretends don't exist).

 

[Bullwinkle]

As far as I've understood lower LSD values will not increase traction out of corners but will make the loss of traction more gradual whereas higher values would initially give more traction but once you go over the limit the rear will step out more violently.

Although this is not in contradiction with what you said about lower LSD settings being helpful if you're heavy-footed, I think your message could be interpreted as lower values increasing traction. But this is just going by how I've understood it to work in GT 7 so feel free to correct me!

This jibes with what I’ve been experiencing so far. But what I’m not sure about is which LSD setting I should reduce: the initial torque or the acceleration sensitivity?

It behaves counter-intuitively for me. I tried reducing the sensitivity and it got really squirrelly coming out of corners and spun out more often. When I increased it the car behaved more predictably and didn’t spin. I used to run initial torque very low but it seems to take forever to get going out of corners. I haven’t fiddled with that setting much without TC, so I’m not yet sure what it affects.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Rotherbach K]

Hi,

The more extreme you get - the more right you become. Just because there the Tires become the bottleneck. AMGs are mostly overpowering any Tires.

But mercs are a quite Well example - their TC, ABS and ESP are Set to such Defensive Levels - that they down regulate Power even where a good Driver doesn't Need them (again - unser strictly Controlled conditions) and I am faster at NNS With a SLK350 (R171) With deactivated ESP&TC compared to activated systems, to my 20+years of experience there (and in Others Tracks) 15-20 Seconds a lap are significant. Of course Cars from the Last 10-15 years do IT much better then older Cars, ist would bei ridiculous If this won't bei the Case . And racing Cars - can be left Out from my Argument due to Lack of experience.

And of course you must leave the General Skill Out of you comparison. If you don't know what you are doing - you cannot Drive With either system in or Off - that is Out of any discussion and a fact in any discussion.

 

[OJBrit]

But I'm losing full seconds rather than gaining the tenths that make TC0 worth it.

The change will do this. Over time this will change and you will see the increases. Stick with it.

In GTS I decided to make the change and went for test runs using cars of increasing power in FR as this was less sensitive.
Once I found this was fine I went to MR and did the same test.

You will of course from time to time spin out still so it isn't an instant fix, but you will find your driving will get and feel better.

 

[VR]

This jibes with what I’ve been experiencing so far. But what I’m not sure about is which LSD setting I should reduce: the initial torque or the acceleration sensitivity?

It behaves counter-intuitively for me. I tried reducing the sensitivity and it got really squirrelly coming out of corners and spun out more often. When I increased it the car behaved more predictably and didn’t spin. I used to run initial torque very low but it seems to take forever to get going out of corners. I haven’t fiddled with that setting much without TC, so I’m not yet sure what it affects.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

This thread might be helpful for you but bear in mind that while the general principles are the same, the summaries of the OP and others were written when GT 5 was the latest entry in the series. But in any case you might find some of them useful:

LSD Guide Summaries

I have spent more time testing the LSD in Gran Turismo than anyone. It has worked very similarly since GT3. This IS how the LSD works in GT5. LSD Accel – This setting has one purpose, to manage inside and outside wheel spin. If the inside wheel spins first, raise this setting. If the...

www.gtplanet.net

Having said that I'd personally focus more on technique than the car's settings if that's where you feel like you can still make improvements cause ultimately that will benefit you more by improving your pace no matter how the car is set up.

 

[Scaff]

Hi,

The more extreme you get - the more right you become. Just because there the Tires become the bottleneck. AMGs are mostly overpowering any Tires.

Something that could be applied to a number of less extreme cars, at the end of the day tyres are always the bottleneck.

But mercs are a quite Well example - their TC, ABS and ESP are Set to such Defensive Levels - that they down regulate Power even where a good Driver doesn't Need them (again - unser strictly Controlled conditions) and I am faster at NNS With a SLK350 (R171) With deactivated ESP&TC compared to activated systems, to my 20+years of experience there (and in Others Tracks) 15-20 Seconds a lap are significant. Of course Cars from the Last 10-15 years do IT much better then older Cars, ist would bei ridiculous If this won't bei the Case . And racing Cars - can be left Out from my Argument due to Lack of experience.

We can't really leave racing cars out of it, because the systems used in racing are increasingly found on road cars

And of course you must leave the General Skill Out of you comparison. If you don't know what you are doing - you cannot Drive With either system in or Off - that is Out of any discussion and a fact in any discussion.

Having taught drivers the lower the skill level, the quicker you will be with driver aids, being able to react quicker than driver aids requires a significant skill ceiling to start with, to be able to do it consistently, across all conditions, raises that bar even further, as such you can't leave skill out of it. If only 0.1% of drivers have the required skill level to be quicker in car 'x' with driver aids switched off, then claiming that car 'x' is quicker with aids off, while technically true, is excluding a massive piece of context.

 

[Rotherbach K]

Hi,

You Change your Argument in Details. Of course the Tires are the Last in Chain. But the Number of Cars for which you probably will only have a Few racing Tires which make them probably controlable is Not that great in total Numbers. You can provoke "Mad" behaviour by Bad settings and wrong Tires (wrong, because heavy oversteer etc. can be the Goal of course). But - typically that's Not the Plan.

The Point in all this Systems isn't their existance - the Essence ist the programming and optimization. A Porsche does this better then a Fiat and It will BE better for the corresponding Race Car. My Point was also a Bit more detailled, then your reply - i cannot do this comparison. I have no experience With Race Cars more modern then maybe 15 years (around). All Cars I Had on Track the Last 5-10 years have been Road Cars, some more or less modified.


Yes of course - worse Drivers benefit drastically from driving aids. But - this doesn't Show any improvement of Skill - will still be a Bad driver. But you probably Just Interprete my comment in these opposite to my meaning.

 

[Voodoovaj]

In case it hasn't been mentioned, the TCS in the game is video game TCS. It doesn't function like the real world. It's a game assist.

There is a lesser TCS behind the scenes. It's toned down in this version compared to GTS but it's still there. You just have to get used to it.

 

[ketiux]

This is how I tend to think of TCS, 600HP is more or less the breaking point for TCS in most cars. 4WD cars can probably go higher in HP before needing TCS 🤷‍♂️

if (HP > 600) {
system.car.select 'TCS1';
} else {
system.car.select 'TCS0';
}

I can't believe my lying eyes, this is how I see it too haha!

 

[DiabloSV]

In case it hasn't been mentioned, the TCS in the game is video game TCS. It doesn't function like the real world. It's a game assist.

There is a lesser TCS behind the scenes. It's toned down in this version compared to GTS but it's still there. You just have to get used to it.

How does TCS work in real life and how does it differ from game?

 

[LGBT_Barron]

I've slowly been weaning myself off using it, but on certain places on certain tracks (especially GR3) i will quickly switch it on ...and it has saved me numerous times from spinning out......At the end of the day i can live with being slightly slower over a lap and the shame that comes with using it ;-)

 

[Live25]

Nope, real life is quite different to that. In reality cars are very often quicker with ABS and TC switched on, particularly purpose built race cars that run ABS and TC systems designed for use on the circuit. GT3 is a prime example of this, you will find zero teams switching them to zero and being quicker, the cars are specifically designed, developed and built to be quicker with the systems active.

Gran Turismo does not model this well at all.

Absolutely true with modern iterations of TCS and ABS and as much as it pains me to say, AT's as well. The technology has surpassed even the most skilled drivers. Older and/or cheaper iterations of this technology can be downright dog**** however.

And yes, GT's modeling is a rather blanket application. The TCS in a '95 Integra is equal to the TCS in something like the LaFerrari. If you believe those 2 systems are equivalent, I'll happily sell you a deed to the Eiffel Tower.

 

[MicVic10]

This isn't meant to be as confrontational as the title sounds, but I'm trying to learn how to turn all the assists off and it's been less-than-productive so far (I keep ABS on because I lose way too much time braking without it). People insist that it will be faster because this is where you can scrub off tenths of a second from your time, but my lap times are going waaaay up. I know I'll learn and improve, but it's hard to feel like it is worth it when the FFB keeps changing and the physics seems to be a little off. But I'd like you to explain to my why I should make the change. What are the benefits? What are some points I need to pay attention to in order to improve?

After driving many hours on the Sardegna road circuit, here are some of my observations so far, in no particular order:

• Is it my imagination, or is braking distance reduced with TC0?
• Likewise, and this may not be my imagination, is it much easier to trail brake with TC0?
• It seems like less speed is scrubbed off on high speed turns with TC0 because there are no adjustments to power.
• My weakest link so far is coming out of tight turns. The ones on Sardegna that are less than 90 degrees are killing me. I feel like I have to really baby the throttle coming out of them, and that is where I'm losing the most time (to the tune of several seconds a lap). Will I ever regain those lost seconds?
• I tend to go with higher differential settings for stability. Will lower LSD settings counteract the tendency to spin out?
• Just a thought: does the gearing help with not spinning out? If I make 1st a little longer will it ease up on how fast the power is applied? Or keep it low and drop 2nd gear lower and short shift instead?
• Does Turbo vs. Naturally Aspirated matter? In other words, does the turbo lag kicking in late make it harder to control the throttle coming out of a tight corner? Am I more likely to spin out with a turbo?
• I run the Fanatec DD Pro wheel (and I think it has the CSL pedals). Will the quality of pedals make it easier to feather the throttle? I can't remember what it's called right now, but the higher quality pedals have more realistic resistance to give better feedback. Does this make a significant difference in throttle control? Or is that just for the experts?

Please feel free to correct or add to my observations. Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

Edit: New questions as I think of them. Also, please give me some kind of useful information in your comments, or at least explain your reasoning.

1) No, TC does not affect braking distances.
2) No, TC does not affect your trail braking.
3) Absolutely, TC affects your cornering speed, even full throttle corners, because it cuts power when it detects wheelspin. Remember, a bit of wheelspin and especially slip angle is desired to maximise speed.
4) In tail happy cars you want to switch to a lower gear to get better rotation, and then upshift at the apex to 2nd or even 3rd to put the power down smoothly. Think of Sardegna Turn1, it's a 2nd gear corner, you brake hard, downshift to 2nd turn in, hit the apex, switch to 3rd, power away. For very very slow corners, (think Maggiore turn2) downshift to 1st, hit the apex, upshift to 2nd, power away. You will regain everything and then some by getting used to TC off.
5) LSD tuning can only improve the spinning tendency of cars mid corner when you start accelerating by lowering the sensitivity (if I remember correctly). If your car puts down more power than the tires can handle no LSD in the world will make it stop spinning when coming out of the corners.
6) Yes, making gears longer will result in less torque at the wheels but will cost you more time than a little wheelspin, especially of you drop the RPMs too much (outside of power band or, worse, before the turbo kicks in). See point 4 for gear guidance.
7) Turbo cars tend to put all the torque down suddenly, especially High-RPM kits, making them easier to spin when powering out. If you make your gears longer as per point 6 the transition will be even more brutal. Try to listen for when the turbo spools up and temporarily come off throttle a tiny bit (from 100% to 75% as an example). Do not come off too much or the turbo will stop spooling.
8) Not a wheel user but AFAIK pedal resistance only really helps with the brake pedal. Sure, you can change the throttle too but it won't be night and day.

 

[Bullwinkle]

This thread might be helpful for you but bear in mind that while the general principles are the same, the summaries of the OP and others were written when GT 5 was the latest entry in the series. But in any case you might find some of them useful:

LSD Guide Summaries

I have spent more time testing the LSD in Gran Turismo than anyone. It has worked very similarly since GT3. This IS how the LSD works in GT5. LSD Accel – This setting has one purpose, to manage inside and outside wheel spin. If the inside wheel spins first, raise this setting. If the...

www.gtplanet.net

Having said that I'd personally focus more on technique than the car's settings if that's where you feel like you can still make improvements cause ultimately that will benefit you more by improving your pace no matter how the car is set up.

That is an amazing thread!!! There are some excellent descriptions in there, the best of which (for me) is from budious:

“A higher initial torque is closer to the locked state so it needs less of a transition period to smoothly obtain locked state, a lower initial torque is further from the locked state so it needs more of a transition period to smoothly obtain locked state.

Acceleration sensitivity then would represent transition time between initial torque and locked during which the torque distribution gradually shifts from 10/90 to 50/50. This period needs to be long enough to prevent rapid torque changes which would result in loss of traction exiting corners but short enough to obtain lock shortly after exiting a corner for straight-away stability.

Deceleration sensitivity on the other hand, would represent the transition time from locked back initial torque. This period would not need to be as long as acceleration sensitivity for most configurations since torque is being removed from the wheels simultaneously and unlocking the differential to allow the state of initial torque to be present upon cornering. However, setting this period too short would result in the car becoming prematurely loose during high speed decelerations into corners.”

That is the simplest and clearest explanation of what’s going on that I’ve ever read! Thank you for that link!

7) Turbo cars tend to put all the torque down suddenly, especially High-RPM kits, making them easier to spin when powering out. If you make your gears longer as per point 6 the transition will be even more brutal.

Thanks for all the great insight! When you say the transition will be more brutal, so you mean because the turbo has wound down and then need to spook up again, only to kick in again once the throttle is higher?

Remember, a bit of wheelspin and especially slip angle is desired to maximise speed.

I’ve always wondered about this. Can you explain why a little slip is better traction?

 

[VolusiaF30]

Maybe TC 0 Vs 1 is more noticeable with a controller but with a wheel it doesn't make a whole lot of difference. Maybe makes oversteer 10% easier to manage but not a whole lot else. I'm definitely faster through corners with it off, but if I'm in a very tail happy car I put it on one.
A prime example of that is the passing mission in Tokyo, forgot the car model but it was a Toyota rwd, just blowing on the throttle swung the back end out. Got gold with TC 1 after a few attempts with TC 0

 

[MicVic10]

That is an amazing thread!!! There are some excellent descriptions in there, the best of which (for me) is from budious:

“A higher initial torque is closer to the locked state so it needs less of a transition period to smoothly obtain locked state, a lower initial torque is further from the locked state so it needs more of a transition period to smoothly obtain locked state.

Acceleration sensitivity then would represent transition time between initial torque and locked during which the torque distribution gradually shifts from 10/90 to 50/50. This period needs to be long enough to prevent rapid torque changes which would result in loss of traction exiting corners but short enough to obtain lock shortly after exiting a corner for straight-away stability.

Deceleration sensitivity on the other hand, would represent the transition time from locked back initial torque. This period would not need to be as long as acceleration sensitivity for most configurations since torque is being removed from the wheels simultaneously and unlocking the differential to allow the state of initial torque to be present upon cornering. However, setting this period too short would result in the car becoming prematurely loose during high speed decelerations into corners.”

That is the simplest and clearest explanation of what’s going on that I’ve ever read! Thank you for that link!

Thanks for all the great insight! When you say the transition will be more brutal, so you mean because the turbo has wound down and then need to spook up again, only to kick in again once the throttle is higher?

I’ve always wondered about this. Can you explain why a little slip is better traction?

Yes, if you are too low on the RPM the turbo will be basically dead, and by the time it makes boost it will be a sudden kick. If you shorten the gear and keep it spooling a little bit the kick will be less severe. Be aware that we are talking about high rpm turbos and small engines. This will probably only happen with road cars (R33 with high rpm is a handful even in third gear going straight) on sport hards and MAYBE Gr. 2 with RH.
As for spin and slip. A little wheelspin, that is the wheel spinning more than it should based on how far the car is moving, is desired mainly because it keeps the engine revving high. If you launch a car and don't wheelspin it just a tiny bit you will notice the engine slows down to match the wheels, it bogs down basically. You can feel it too, your body jumps forward like when you brake. I'm sure there are other physics reasons I am not qualified enough to explain, buy those cam be researched online.
As far as slip angle goes, it's different compared to wheelspin. This is basically the angle between the front and rear wheels. Slip angle occurs when the rear wheels are no longer exactly inline with the front wheels (you can't draw a straight line following the track front to back and touch the wheels) because the rear steps out a tiny bit (we're talking about a few degrees, maybe 10° max). Particularly wer are talking about the inside rear losing a bit of grip. This is beneficial because it "pushes" the car into the corner, increasing the steering angle. It is the tiny line between grip and drift. Slip angle has to be maintained with throttle input in most cars, which is when TC absolutely kills it. TC will not only prevent the inside rear from losing grip under power, thus killing the slip angle, but will also prevent the slip angle from occurring to begin with. Correct slip angle through a corner can gain you a tenth, multiply that by, let's say, 10 turns, and you have a full second gone just because of TC not letting you do it.
As others have said, TC in this game is extremely unrealistic. IRL on most occasions you would be faster with it ON (think GT3), but in the game it does a weird combination of ESP (neutralising slip angle), TC and fuel cut, which is why it's ultimately counterproductive.

 

[Voodoovaj]

How does TCS work in real life and how does it differ from game?

It depends on the car in real life and the system. Normal street cars have a system that limits wheel spin so you can maintain control. For track/sport use, there are different levels of TCS intervention and they are designed to give you maximum traction, ergo, you'll always be faster than driving without it. Like launch control, for instance. It controls the engine output and wheel spin to give you the maximum performance.

In the game, the fastest setting is always TCS off and the more TCS you add, the slower you go.

In short, real life systems are designed for maximum performance. The game system is for maximum ease of driving.

The best example are the high powered cars in the game. IRL, some of those cars are literally undriveable without their systems in place, or at best, they are MUCH slower to drive with the system off. In the game TCS 0 is still the fastest way around the track for those same cars.

 

[Bullwinkle]

Yes, if you are too low on the RPM the turbo will be basically dead, and by the time it makes boost it will be a sudden kick. If you shorten the gear and keep it spooling a little bit the kick will be less severe. Be aware that we are talking about high rpm turbos and small engines. This will probably only happen with road cars (R33 with high rpm is a handful even in third gear going straight) on sport hards and MAYBE Gr. 2 with RH.
As for spin and slip. A little wheelspin, that is the wheel spinning more than it should based on how far the car is moving, is desired mainly because it keeps the engine revving high. If you launch a car and don't wheelspin it just a tiny bit you will notice the engine slows down to match the wheels, it bogs down basically. You can feel it too, your body jumps forward like when you brake. I'm sure there are other physics reasons I am not qualified enough to explain, buy those cam be researched online.
As far as slip angle goes, it's different compared to wheelspin. This is basically the angle between the front and rear wheels. Slip angle occurs when the rear wheels are no longer exactly inline with the front wheels (you can't draw a straight line following the track front to back and touch the wheels) because the rear steps out a tiny bit (we're talking about a few degrees, maybe 10° max). Particularly wer are talking about the inside rear losing a bit of grip. This is beneficial because it "pushes" the car into the corner, increasing the steering angle. It is the tiny line between grip and drift. Slip angle has to be maintained with throttle input in most cars, which is when TC absolutely kills it. TC will not only prevent the inside rear from losing grip under power, thus killing the slip angle, but will also prevent the slip angle from occurring to begin with. Correct slip angle through a corner can gain you a tenth, multiply that by, let's say, 10 turns, and you have a full second gone just because of TC not letting you do it.
As others have said, TC in this game is extremely unrealistic. IRL on most occasions you would be faster with it ON (think GT3), but in the game it does a weird combination of ESP (neutralising slip angle), TC and fuel cut, which is why it's ultimately counterproductive.

Ah, that makes perfect sense! I’ve heard so many people saying that wheel spin is important but I could never visualize why. Thank you for your explanation.

 

[Pizzicato1985]

You'll be much faster without it... PD is terrible at modeling TCS and always have been. It's WAY too over-tuned, and there should be at least two more settings in front of TCS 1 (like a 0.35 and 0.7) to get it anywhere near what games like iRacing, ACC, etc have. In those titles I run TC if the car would naturally have it and you're faster for doing so. In pretty much every GT game you're losing at least a second per lap, usually more by keeping it on.

Plus like others have said, you'll be a better driver. IMO it's only worth using in heavy rain on cars with insane HP/wheel-spin, any other time it's just cutting too much time off your laps.

There are only a handful of cars in GT7 where you need to have good throttle control anyway, so it shouldn't be hard to transition unless your favorite car is the F1 road... In that case you'll have a decent learning curve, but in nearly every other car the only time you have to be careful with the throttle is coming out of a slow 90 degree corner/chicane or when riding a wheel onto curbs/sausages.

 

[Live25]

Wow, its simply a lot more fun without TCS, much more engaging. It’s like a whole new game, I love it.

 

[Bullwinkle]

Wow, its simply a lot more fun without TCS, much more engaging. It’s like a whole new game, I love it.

I agree. I’m having a blast figuring it out. I did the first two races on the new Watkins Glen track today with the Shelby Cobra and it was a crazy handful, but I loved every minute of it!

 

[Live25]

I agree. I’m having a blast figuring it out. I did the first two races on the new Watkins Glen track today with the Shelby Cobra and it was a crazy handful, but I loved every minute of it!

I gave my Coyote Mach I a try there, I’m sure we had a similar experience, lol.

 

[B80]

Wow, its simply a lot more fun without TCS, much more engaging. It’s like a whole new game, I love it.

Yes, thats my thing with it. I still toggle tcs1 on from time to time if really pushing it with some random cars on Circuit Experiences, but what bugs me is the feeling that tcs is killing a bit of cars soul/individuality, so gradually transitioning away from it as I improve.

 

[Limey77]

I recently shifted to TCS 0 and today I cleaned up a bunch of the CE I’d failed to get.

Now got another 16m in the bank - another good reason for no TCS.

 

[Bullwinkle]

No compression or expansion, I'm referring to spring rates. Dampers are what you were talking about but that's a bit different. If the car has a happy tail, increase front spring rates (frequency) and lower the rear.

Yes, you save the most recent video, link your account to YT and then upload it. But if it's too much don't worry, we can still help via this forum.

I’m waiting for YouTube to process my latest video. I did two videos of the Sardinia 800 to give examples of my worse attempt and my better attempt. I’ll explain more when I post them, maybe tomorrow.

 

[Bullwinkle]

I recently shifted to TCS 0 and today I cleaned up a bunch of the CE I’d failed to get.

Now got another 16m in the bank - another good reason for no TCS.

I wish I had that kind of response to the change. So far I’m significantly slower without TC. I can see where I can improve, but I’m easily getting beat by the AI out of corners because I don’t feel like I can accelerate quickly enough without losing control. Today was a good day though and I think I’ve learned a few things, so I expect I’ll improve as I go. It’s been less than a week so I need to be patient.

Edit: I guess it’s been exactly a week now, but the improvement over that time has been gratifying!

 

[Limey77]

I wish I had that kind of response to the change. So far I’m significantly slower without TC. I can see where I can improve, but I’m easily getting beat by the AI out of corners because I don’t feel like I can accelerate quickly enough without losing control. Today was a good day though and I think I’ve learned a few things, so I expect I’ll improve as I go. It’s been less than a week so I need to be patient.

Edit: I guess it’s been exactly a week now, but the improvement over that time has been gratifying!

It feels slower at first to modulate the throttle on exits but it ends up being so much faster

 

[Bullwinkle]

It feels slower at first to modulate the throttle on exits but it ends up being so much faster

Regardless of the feel, at this point I’m simply getting beat out of the corners by the AI, so I’m definitely slower. I think I’ll figure it out, and it’s a challenge, but I’m really REALLY enjoying this game all over again.

 

[xMAXIx79]

I recently shifted to TCS 0 and today I cleaned up a bunch of the CE I’d failed to get.

Now got another 16m in the bank - another good reason for no TCS.

But please be honest!

When did you first do CE with TCS and not go gold?
What hardware did you play on?
What TC level did you use?
Are you still using the same hardware?
Has your driving improved in general since then?


Soooo now I'm excited!

Because if you drive properly with at least one steering wheel, in at least 90 rather 95% of the cases you don't have to fear a really noticeable disadvantage in time, which makes a massive difference in whether gold in the CE is possible or not.

 

[RX-7_FD3S]

I wish I had that kind of response to the change. So far I’m significantly slower without TC. I can see where I can improve, but I’m easily getting beat by the AI out of corners because I don’t feel like I can accelerate quickly enough without losing control. Today was a good day though and I think I’ve learned a few things, so I expect I’ll improve as I go. It’s been less than a week so I need to be patient.

Edit: I guess it’s been exactly a week now, but the improvement over that time has been gratifying!

A good tip I found is to train yourself to apply 50% throttle or just below, in GTS and GT7 you can apply that usually right as you come off the brakes and you wont spin but will gain crucial momentum, apply more pressure once you feel confident.