It's got more to do with the strength and authenticity of how it transitions and holds it's left to right forces. The Logitechs have horrible notchiness to them, I have never felt a car that relays the feel and direction of tires/car in such a cheap and erratic fashion. In that sense, there certainly is more information to give in a T300, it's much closer to a 1:1 tire angle and steering wheel position, in terms of matching speed and strength differences.
No, you're just getting thrown off that the DFGT presents the information in a different way. Same information.
Meh, I don't think that relates well as a comparison, you could say that with anything then.. if it get's the job done, then hey why buy the next newest thing??..
That's exactly the point.
You don't need a fancy TV to watch the movie, but it's more fun.
You don't need a fancy wheel to be fast, but it's more fun.
Until now I've only had experience with GT6, and I've only used my T300 for maybe 5 hours because my setup is not where I'm temporarily living. Next week I'll be getting AC and running it at lowest graphical output and check out how that performs. All I can say is that when a T300 and DFGT are tweaked to their optimal performance (which I think is sad that the dev can't have at least 1 or 2 preset values for each vehicle that most accurately make use of a given wheel), the fact they could portray the same info while racing high powered sportscars is beyond my personal understanding, it's just not possible.
Well, you're wrong and you're basing this on absolutely no experience at all.
I still stand by the fact that if a higher end wheel cannot give an advantage, at least over longer distances where the smallest steering angles would make all the difference in tire degredation, I seriously question how accurate the simulator actually is.
Why? What should the simulator be able to do with the higher end wheel that it cannot do with the lower end wheel?
And also, because I've read lots of people who are dialing the FFB down or even almost completely out, is actually a tell tale sign that something is not right, so either it's a person who can not handle/understand/react well enough to the movements of the wheel, and/or (most likely) the wheel motors themselves are literally over/under-reacting and causing un-smooth info being sent to the game.. which is of course more tire friction. Anywho, there must've been a couple discussions around this before, I used to read the sim hardware forum a lot but haven't really lately.. could have been a great talk about exactly this. 👍
You're totally misunderstanding
why people turn the FFB down.
Say you turn your FFB on your T300 up. I know on a T500 full power is strong enough to rip the wheel out of the hands of most people, or at least it's a serious struggle to resist the force.
That's not what you want as a driver. You want to feel the bumps, the kerbs, and the state of your front wheels. You do not want every bump and kerb to be deflecting your steering, or forcing you to let go before you hurt yourself. You want the FFB to be strong enough that you feel everything that's going on, but light enough that you aren't fighting the wheel every second and you can react quickly even against the wheel force if you have to.
This is why you won't understand if you've only been playing console games, because the adjustability doesn't exist.
Technically, a wheel has internal friction, and any forces below that won't be felt at all. This is why PC sims have a minimum force setting, which scales the "zero force" point to where friction in your wheel starts to give way. On a console you could be legitimately losing information to friction (and most belt driven wheels have a lot more internal friction than a gear drive like a DFGT), but you'd never know until you bump the minimum force.
Then there's max force, where anything above the maximum force your wheel can produce feels exactly the same. If your wheel can produce 50 torques max, then you won't be able to feel the difference between the sim telling the wheel to turn with 51 torques and the sim telling the wheel to turn with 100 torques. They'll be exactly the same. Again, losing information.
So once you've gotten those calibrated, for which there are aids to help, you then have to calibrate yourself. How much can you feel through the wheel? How much do you
need to feel? How much are you willing to sacrifice so that you're not having the wheel yanked out of your hand when you rub fenders with someone? Or so that your arms aren't shaking and weak after 45 minutes of racing? This isn't about information any more, it's about physical realities of racing and making tradeoffs so that you get the best you can while still letting you use your racing skills.
To go back to the TV metaphor, a high contrast ratio is great, but it's no use if full white blinds you with the force of a thousand suns. You turn it down.
You've barely started along the sim wheel path, so you have no idea how much actual thought can be put into this if you try. Having a good wheel doesn't give you good FFB. Getting your wheel set up right gives you good FFB, and then after that maybe the wheel makes a difference. But it's less than you think. The difference in speed between a DFGT and a T300 is negligible at best, it's driver and setup.
But you couldn't know any of this, because you're playing on console. Consider yourself informed that there's a whole world of stuff out there that you haven't run into yet, and you should be wary of making sweeping statements without having a bit more knowledge than one game on a console.
Consoles are designed to be plug and play. They are not the best instruments for comparing the maximum capabilities of hardware.