CREDIT GRIND - WTC 600 Tokyo Express - Glitches are Dead.

[Max_HP]

Maybe that's my problem, since I used another settings that bumped the HP back to 2500. I used another setting with 1400hp before and I was able to handle it better than now.

Oh yeah, I mean, if the Tomahawk's HP you're using now has changed to a more powerful one, for sure that's gonna affect the vehicle's performance and handling characteristics.

 

[GTboyz]

Oh yeah, I mean, if the Tomahawk's HP you're using now has changed to a more powerful one, for sure that's gonna affect the vehicle's performance and handling characteristics.

The most important one for me is the fuel consumption. It drinks soo much fuel now since it's back to 2500ish HP again. Before I was able to use Fuel Map 3 and 5th gear all the way without pitting. Now I had to use 7th gear with Fuel Map 6 if I want no pitting and the car felt heavier to me lol

 

[tiberiusteng]

The most important one for me is the fuel consumption. It drinks soo much fuel now since it's back to 2500ish HP again. Before I was able to use Fuel Map 3 and 5th gear all the way without pitting. Now I had to use 7th gear with Fuel Map 6 if I want no pitting and the car felt heavier to me lol

p.20/21 of this thread have some ECU 70/restrictor 70 low HP tunes for latest version.

 

[Supaboost]

Come on, there is plenty on content, more than average game. Maybe just, is never enough for you, but for many, like me, is quite enough already, still more to come, takes time and money.

Lmao get real. Compre it to GTs of past, gt7d content is a JOKE.

Stop the pathetic excuse making bud. What exactly does being an apologist get you.

 

[mynameis66]

'Plenty of content,' 😄

 

[Thexnix]

for the tame version, if you wanted to start with IM, you can change to below settings. Run IM till lap4 or 5 and you can change to RH or even RS. The pit is short so you can run on a higher fuel map this method and just refill when you go in to change tyres.

 

[Cayit]

I Start/Finish even without any Tire change(IM) even if it shows all red...

 

[Thexnix]

I can’t control the 2000hp ones, constantly getting penalty handed , eventually running even longer than my tame RH. Tame RH gets me around 17:10. Thus, I am trying to mix it up , and see which combi is the better one. IM + RH with FM1 all the way or maybe I will try your full IM and see how much faster can I get , but at least with a much controllable car.

 

[NICKname]

Why does the DRS stop working when you run out of ERS? That doesn't make sense.

 

[PsxMicha]

how to do you get 3.3 Million an hour? What lap times do you guys have? I can beat this race in 17-18 minutes. So I can do it 3 times a hour, which is ~ 2.4 million

 

[Thexnix]

how to do you get 3.3 Million an hour? What lap times do you guys have? I can beat this race in 17-18 minutes. So I can do it 3 times a hour, which is ~ 2.4 million

That’s just their calculation based on 14 min per run with very good control. It doesn’t mean they always run penalty free.
If you are able to do 17-18 mins per race , you are doing just fine.

 

[breyzipp]

I even have a powerful one that can interchange IM and RH 😂

Can you post the setup please?

 

[RichiPuppy]

Can you post the setup please?

Yeah, if anyone has a high power IM start and pit to RH/RM that would be great. That’s what I was running before the update and haven’t found one since.

 

[Thexnix]

Can you post the setup please?

Will post it in another hour. Need to settle the kids. 😂

 

[Thexnix]

This is the wild version. I found the sweet spot which you can decide to use IM or RH at the start. Or you can start with IM and pit for RH mid way.
I found that, as long as your PP on IM is below 600, and if you get ! when you switch to RH in sheet settings, you can actually swap to RH midrace. But the below settings just happen to hit the sweet spot.

 

[Dan]

for the tame version, if you wanted to start with IM, you can change to below settings. Run IM till lap4 or 5 and you can change to RH or even RS. The pit is short so you can run on a higher fuel map this method and just refill when you go in to change tyres.

What am I doing wrong here? I followed everything correctly but my car is still at 1200.63 PP.

 

[Thexnix]

What am I doing wrong here? I followed everything correctly but my car is still at 1200.63 PP.

Make sure you do it at the race settings screen, not at garage. Every settings should be exactly the same including the gear ratio. Frankly, It Is the exact same gear ratio from pre 1.13 For the tame original version. I just play with ballast and the ballast positioning. Post your screenshot if you still can’t meet it.


Tame version starting with IM FM1 till end of lap 5. Change to RH. Fuel up to 9. Remain FM1 till end. Not too bad. I even had 3 stupid 5sec penalty so if you run it cleanly, you are touching borderline 16:59

now gonna try the full IM and maybe IM to RM Or RS.

IM to RM same strats as above gives me 16:59. Nice.…

IM all the way. Only pit for fuel. 17:12. The IM fully red last few laps, so lap time also dropped considerably.

IM all the way FM5 no pit. 17:05.

IM FM1 up till end of lap 6. Switch to RM. Fuel up to indicator only. Come out pits and remain FM1 all the way. I manage my best time of 16:44. Best lap 1:15.5. This is now my best setup. I get to rest in between for some pit action and maintain a fast setup for each lap.

 

[Dan]

Make sure you do it at the race settings screen, not at garage. Every settings should be exactly the same including the gear ratio. Frankly, It Is the exact same gear ratio from pre 1.13 For the tame original version. I just play with ballast and the ballast positioning. Post your screenshot if you still can’t meet it.

The second I went to Tokyo Expressway’s event screen (before the pre-race screen), the Tomahawk automatically bumped down to 554.76. What a strange calculation system. Thank you!

 

[Thexnix]

The second I went to Tokyo Expressway’s event screen (before the pre-race screen), the Tomahawk automatically bumped down to 554.76. What a strange calculation system. Thank you!

Remember to floor the Overtake as soon as you start lap1 out of the tunnel. 😂

 

[Grimm6Jack]

Why does the DRS stop working when you run out of ERS? That doesn't make sense.

Probably has to do with the amount of energy needed for the DRS system to work, both likely go hand-in-hand. Don't ask for specifics mate. This is a fake car to begin with which is also in no way realistic.

The "low-power" versions would last me the whole race, in the 2000+ hp versions, I would have none of it at lap 9-10 if I used it every lap prior.

 

[UltimateLurker]

I can’t control the 2000hp ones, constantly getting penalty handed , eventually running even longer than my tame RH.

Same, I miss the less powerful version. I don't mind my tune, and running out of gas at the very end, but I'd like the car to be less twitchy. I suppose I'll add some ARB to the front and rear?

The most important one for me is the fuel consumption. It drinks soo much fuel now since it's back to 2500ish HP again. Before I was able to use Fuel Map 3 and 5th gear all the way without pitting. Now I had to use 7th gear with Fuel Map 6 if I want no pitting and the car felt heavier to me lol

Same, I miss being able to use FM3 the whole race with fuel to spare, or switching to FM1 for a few laps if I felt frisky.

 

[Thexnix]

Same, I miss the less powerful version. I don't mind my tune, and running out of gas at the very end, but I'd like the car to be less twitchy. I suppose I'll add some ARB to the front and rear?


Same, I miss being able to use FM3 the whole race with fuel to spare, or switching to FM1 for a few laps if I felt frisky.

The 2000hp has so much torque that it feels so twitchy when moving Left or right. Even on the straights.

Full RH no pit tuning slightly enhanced. Lowered the total weight so that it corners even easier. I got a 17:13 with 3 penalty, so if I keep it clean, I know I can break into 16:59.

 

[ebadevil]

how to do you get 3.3 Million an hour? What lap times do you guys have? I can beat this race in 17-18 minutes. So I can do it 3 times a hour, which is ~ 2.4 million

Sume unicorns can run the max hp tomahawk in under 15 minutes so that's where the calculation comes from. I don't see the fun in that though, I'm ok doing 17 minute runs on 1400hp without having to go crazy driving the max hp version.

 

[NAXEHT]

A 14’43 run on IM with one stop for fresh IM’s at the end of lap 7. No fuel.

 

[CBH]

Sume unicorns can run the max hp tomahawk in under 15 minutes so that's where the calculation comes from. I don't see the fun in that though, I'm ok doing 17 minute runs on 1400hp without having to go crazy driving the max hp version.

Even if your time is around 17,18,19 or 20 minutes you still get the 825,000cr. Members got to remember this is not a Time Trial race, so there is no need to go at warp speed to post your best time.

 

[The OG]

^ ya for me time doesnt matter... but i guess if you want to finish the race sooner it matters to some people... especially if your grinding and you can do 15 minute races so doing 4 an hour instead of 3...that sounds great but im already really concentrating enough just to do 18 minute races... i can only imagine the speed and concentration it takes to do 15 minute races lol...im good with my 3 races an hour per day for 2,475,000... im already at 10 million and counting while still buying cars in between but nothing too expensive lol

 

[NAXEHT]

I agree, if making tons of money is the #1 aim then it doesn’t matter too much if you’re doing 15 or 18 minute races, what matters then is how many you can be bothered to do. Someone content in running 10, 15 or 20 of these at 17-20 min pace is obviously making a lot more money than someone who does three, four or five 15 minute ones. That’s pretty clear and I don’t think anyone’s disputing or debating that.

That said, it’s fun to try and do quick ones.

 

[wfooshee]

I got my settings all screwed up and it went back to the ! for PP value. I'm away from the console right now, but I ended up with a set of settings with more ballast and comfort medium tires (the only tire my settings combination will accept) that was under 600 PP. Adjusting the ballast or the power limit 1 click screws it up, but this set comes back. The settings in the first post worked the first time I did it, but intermediate tires were all I could use, and they are only good for a couple of laps when the rain stops.

I've run mixture 1 and mixture 6. I got through without refueling on mixture 6 but tires were useless at lap 10, had to change. Mixture one burns the tires at 6 laps, so a halfway pit stop with a short fill gets me through, and with 4 laps on the field. I'm only in the 1:25 range, best was a 1:23.5, not trying to do any better than that. I've not broken 18 minutes for the race.

Also, I get carpal tunnel really bad with MT so I usually drive auto. You have to do this with manual because the first three gears are absolutely useless if you get stuck in them with auto-shifting!

Took a replay photo of the Tomahawk lapping the NSX out of the tunnel! 185 vs 325...

 

[dr_slump]

I decided to create a tune for Intermediate tires to see if traffic could be avoided more easily and if the pit stop is worth taking.

Racing Intermediate, full power, zero weight, >600km/h with fuel 6:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...gt-600pp-rh-im-max-power.408133/post-13705623

 

[MarchingSaint]

Even if your time is around 17,18,19 or 20 minutes you still get the 825,000cr. Members got to remember this is not a Time Trial race, so there is no need to go at warp speed to post your best time.

To be fair, trying to finish fast is heaps of fun especially if you take in consideration the insane speed of the car and how responsive it is. Makes grinding quite entertaining actually

Edit: was a sport soft tires version already posted? I feel like my times were better this way because worse tires somehow helped with fuel efficiency/tire lifespan