CSL update - blue mode

[Ckingrx7]

My problem is not that I notice the noisy understeer. It’s my downstairs neighbour.

Haha well I guess that could be a problem.... Are you using a wheel stand/ play seat deal or just clamping up on a small table I've noticed that makes a ton more noise compared to being bolted into a playseat. Maybe an extra cheap rug or yoga mat could help if it's that bad

 

[Nando deBem]

Haha well I guess that could be a problem.... Are you using a wheel stand/ play seat deal or just clamping up on a small table I've noticed that makes a ton more noise compared to being bolted into a playseat. Maybe an extra cheap rug or yoga mat could help if it's that bad

Playseat. I’ll have to buy some shock absorber pads or mat. I’m looking into it.

 

[fastone371]

I don't know about what others are saying, but before and after patch is a big difference once you get you're settings correct. I use a head set so the slight clunking I get in understeer conditions isn't noticed. Thats what the fei setting is for, basically the game is putting out a square wave signal and fei is taking the edge off it and making an arc so the forces aren't as sharp. I found 50-60 to be perfect. Important note! No spring I put that at 10-20 so the wheel only centers itself in menus, this is key to getting better feel from the wheel if you have spr at 100 your masking over all the nice details. My dri is set to -2 and everything else 100. In game settings I'm still messing with, but 6-8 for sensitivity feels good and feed back force or wheel feel in around 4-6. You can really feel all the undulations and bumps in the road surfaces and definitely feel what the car is doing much better then ever. Things like weight transitions and four wheel slides during hot entrances are very noticeable and unlike before I can Save a very hairy entrance or exit. It's no Assetto corsa but I actually want to start playing the stupid game now.

Note cars with lots of downforce give you less road feel because you're actually gripping the road and give you a very satisfying glued down feeling and are super responsive feeling now.

Also if your taking a corner and your wheel instantly starts clattering and rumbling that's understeer and If it happens every corner and is making the game unplayable it just might be that you've been driving way to hot in corners and Turing way to much and might need to adjust your play or driving style.

I can't seem to switch modes with my wheel unless there is a special procedure (blue/purple) It is my understanding per Fanatec that DRI is for drift mode, what gives? If I am getting so much clunking thru my wheel just because of understeer I shouldn't even bother racing, I would be lapping Interlagos at about 6 minutes if I drive so it doesn't clunk madly. I frequently compare my corner entry/apex/exit speeds to the top 10 leader board to fi d out why I am always 1-2 seconds off the top and my corner speeds are almost always just 1 or 2 mph slow, so there must be more drivable speed left in the car. I have tried all of my settings FF/FOR/SPR/DPR/FEI etc from 100 or max then turning 1 field down at a time then putting all fields down to minimum and cranking 1 field up at a time but really can't seem to notice the effect it has other than FF. The biggest adjustment for me is in sensitivity in the game menu, if its low its usable but not pleasurable and up high its plain unusable. Wanna come over and fix mine? I will pay you!!

 

[Nando deBem]

Maybe we need to apply more steering angle in some tracks, but putting the brake balance to the rear and trying not to let it shake on understeer made me be able to get a 7th in the leaderboard in the RedBull Jr!

 

[Mirror_man]

I can't seem to switch modes with my wheel unless there is a special procedure (blue/purple) It is my understanding per Fanatec that DRI is for drift mode, what gives? If I am getting so much clunking thru my wheel just because of understeer I shouldn't even bother racing, I would be lapping Interlagos at about 6 minutes if I drive so it doesn't clunk madly. I frequently compare my corner entry/apex/exit speeds to the top 10 leader board to fi d out why I am always 1-2 seconds off the top and my corner speeds are almost always just 1 or 2 mph slow, so there must be more drivable speed left in the car. I have tried all of my settings FF/FOR/SPR/DPR/FEI etc from 100 or max then turning 1 field down at a time then putting all fields down to minimum and cranking 1 field up at a time but really can't seem to notice the effect it has other than FF. The biggest adjustment for me is in sensitivity in the game menu, if its low its usable but not pleasurable and up high its plain unusable. Wanna come over and fix mine? I will pay you!!

So the ratling thing seems to be too strong and anoying a lot for Csl Elite wheels... seems that a patch is absolutelt needed! Together with correction for the T500rs malfunction!!

 

[fastone371]

So the ratling thing seems to be too strong and anoying a lot for Csl Elite wheels... seems that a patch is absolutelt needed! Together with correction for the T500rs malfunction!!

Yes, that is correct. The wheel hammers loudly when skidding front tires due to lock up or too much turning angle, almost to the point that it sounds like something will break. It can be adjusted so the hammering is not so strong but then steering resistance decreases too. It seems like there has been a change since the original patch last week. the wheel seems slightly better. besides the hammering the wheel also pushes back at you equally hard as you turn in, but its a delayed reaction, far too slow to be realistic tire load, then when it does start to push back it feels kind of "soggy" for lack of a better word. It almost feels like the steering shaft would be winding up (suffering torsional twist) in a real car. There used to be this crappy dohickey that some people used on race car/street rod steering shafts instead of actual u-joints it was a flex cable, kind of like a big diameter speedometer cable, Craftsman used to sell a 1/4" 6" long extension like that also, thats the best way I can describe the steering feel.

 

[Mirror_man]

Yes, that is correct. The wheel hammers loudly when skidding front tires due to lock up or too much turning angle, almost to the point that it sounds like something will break. It can be adjusted so the hammering is not so strong but then steering resistance decreases too. It seems like there has been a change since the original patch last week. the wheel seems slightly better. besides the hammering the wheel also pushes back at you equally hard as you turn in, but its a delayed reaction, far too slow to be realistic tire load, then when it does start to push back it feels kind of "soggy" for lack of a better word. It almost feels like the steering shaft would be winding up (suffering torsional twist) in a real car. There used to be this crappy dohickey that some people used on race car/street rod steering shafts instead of actual u-joints it was a flex cable, kind of like a big diameter speedometer cable, Craftsman used to sell a 1/4" 6" long extension like that also, thats the best way I can describe the steering feel.

Strange description... at least you´ve tried to describe it... but trully I did´nt get it.. Sorry!

 

[fastone371]

Strange description... at least you´ve tried to describe it... but trully I did´nt get it.. Sorry!

Humanoid is my second language.

 

[Kgeldersma]

Wheel is ok since the update going to blue mode. Some positive, some negative. Haven't really have had enough seat time yet to reach a verdict other than there's a lot of room for improvment.

My issue with blue mode. I start a race and I can put down 100% throttle at the start of I reboot my wheel, but as the race goes, the game shows I am only putting down 60-80% throttle with having the pedal mashed. Its really wreaking havoc. I have the v3 clubsport pedals. I tried recalibrating through my laptop and haven't had any success yet. Doesn't seem to do this when I am in purple mode. Totally confused. Anyone else having this problem and anything I could be missing?

 

[Kgeldersma]

Also add the brake also hasn't been working properly in blue mode. They will only brake st half or none at all.

 

[Ckingrx7]

I can't seem to switch modes with my wheel unless there is a special procedure (blue/purple) It is my understanding per Fanatec that DRI is for drift mode, what gives? If I am getting so much clunking thru my wheel just because of understeer I shouldn't even bother racing, I would be lapping Interlagos at about 6 minutes if I drive so it doesn't clunk madly. I frequently compare my corner entry/apex/exit speeds to the top 10 leader board to fi d out why I am always 1-2 seconds off the top and my corner speeds are almost always just 1 or 2 mph slow, so there must be more drivable speed left in the car. I have tried all of my settings FF/FOR/SPR/DPR/FEI etc from 100 or max then turning 1 field down at a time then putting all fields down to minimum and cranking 1 field up at a time but really can't seem to notice the effect it has other than FF. The biggest adjustment for me is in sensitivity in the game menu, if its low its usable but not pleasurable and up high its plain unusable. Wanna come over and fix mine? I will pay you!!

Dri is drift mode settings yes and settings in the positive (+) will use the motor to accelerate the wheel artificially and the opposite is true for negative values (-). It will add artificial drag on the wheel. I put this at -2 for a touch off drag for added "weight" or a heavier feel I believe default is -5 which will mask over any feedback you want to feel. The other key setting I mentioned is the spring or Spr, it does what it is it will artificially add a centering force to the wheel that isn't there in a real car and no racing game actually uses this for ffb so I leave it 0 or 10 just so my wheel will very slowly center itself in the menus so you don't start a rave with the wheel 180 off. But with this at 100 when you're sitting still the force is so overwhelming it centers the cars wheels from full lock and thus is also masking any road feel. So my settings are this

SEN auto
FF..... 100
SHO...off
ABS...off
DRI... -2
FOR...100
SPR...10
DPR...0
BRF...off
FEI... 50-70 depending on car

 

[John Moore]

Something strange happened to my CSL Elite, I couldnt set drift to negative values and FFB, SHO, and FOR could be set to 150! I will film it if I can replicate the glitch, but the wheel shut off by itself after a few minutes.

 

[Gruzzlebeard]

Dri is drift mode settings yes and settings in the positive (+) will use the motor to accelerate the wheel artificially and the opposite is true for negative values (-). It will add artificial drag on the wheel. I put this at -2 for a touch off drag for added "weight" or a heavier feel I believe default is -5 which will mask over any feedback you want to feel. The other key setting I mentioned is the spring or Spr, it does what it is it will artificially add a centering force to the wheel that isn't there in a real car and no racing game actually uses this for ffb so I leave it 0 or 10 just so my wheel will very slowly center itself in the menus so you don't start a rave with the wheel 180 off. But with this at 100 when you're sitting still the force is so overwhelming it centers the cars wheels from full lock and thus is also masking any road feel. So my settings are this

SEN auto
FF..... 100
SHO...off
ABS...off
DRI... -2
FOR...100
SPR...10
DPR...0
BRF...off
FEI... 50-70 depending on car

Do you mind to share with us your in-game settings for FFb Max tourque and FFb Sensitivity?

 

[Gruzzlebeard]

Something strange happened to my CSL Elite, I couldnt set drift to negative values and FFB, SHO, and FOR could be set to 150! I will film it if I can replicate the glitch, but the wheel shut off by itself after a few minutes.

I discovered this issue as well some time ago before the last update. I just switch the wheel off and on again and it was fixed. It happens very rarely.

 

[Mirror_man]

Also add the brake also hasn't been working properly in blue mode. They will only brake st half or none at all.

You´ll have to tune the Brake with the Configuration Button from CSL!!! If you lower it to a value between 10 and 40 you´ll be able to use full brake force!!

 

[andrewhake]

You absolutely need to set your FFB settings higher in game for better feedback in game. I highly recommend using 6 or higher on both settings

 

[John Moore]

Yes I have the ingame settings all set to 10 and on the wheel (FEI) set to 50-60. feels much better to predict when the front wheel will come loose and to prevent the "massive rattle". with these setting the wheel is torquey but drivable. And I dont feel much difference when changing Spring and Damper effects, whether is 0 or 100.

 

[Nando deBem]

Yes I have the ingame settings all set to 10 and on the wheel (FEI) set to 50-60. feels much better to predict when the front wheel will come loose and to prevent the "massive rattle". with these setting the wheel is torquey but drivable. And I dont feel much difference when changing Spring and Damper effects, whether is 0 or 100.

I liked the new FFB so much, apart from the understeer rattle. With your settings, can you feel the oversteer and the increasing of resistance when turning in?

 

[Michi_Jay]

You absolutely need to set your FFB settings higher in game for better feedback in game. I highly recommend using 6 or higher on both settings

Exactly what i experienced. Setting the ingame values to 6 and 6 will make the FFB a lot better (especially the exaggerated understeer rattle). And if the FFB is too strong, you can reduce the FF value on the Fanatec with no problem.

 

[Mirror_man]

You absolutely need to set your FFB settings higher in game for better feedback in game. I highly recommend using 6 or higher on both settings

6 aND 6?? you mean this for the In game Values for: FFB Max Torque and FFB Sensibility???

But to set that FFB torque to 6, that can only be usable if I set ELITE Internal FFB to 50% or less!!! If I would keep ELITE Internal FFB to 100% raising torque above 3 turns the wheel into a Truck´s Carrier´s Driving wheel like (heavy as one of that kind must be...)

 

[Reepersniper]

Haha well I guess that could be a problem.... Are you using a wheel stand/ play seat deal or just clamping up on a small table I've noticed that makes a ton more noise compared to being bolted into a playseat. Maybe an extra cheap rug or yoga mat could help if it's that bad

Does anyone else have the constant out of alignment during a race. Almost every lap my steering csl elite get out of alignment. Usually after catching a slide. I think it's rediculous for such an expensive wheel. And only 6 months old. But done it from new. Suggestions please?

 

[super_gt]

Does anyone else have the constant out of alignment during a race. Almost every lap my steering csl elite get out of alignment. Usually after catching a slide. I think it's rediculous for such an expensive wheel. And only 6 months old. But done it from new. Suggestions please?

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...licensed-for-ps4.356268/page-42#post-12219348

 

[Mirror_man]

Does anyone else have the constant out of alignment during a race. Almost every lap my steering csl elite get out of alignment. Usually after catching a slide. I think it's rediculous for such an expensive wheel. And only 6 months old. But done it from new. Suggestions please?

Use the procedure for aligning/ recentering the wheel discribed on the manual...

 

[Reepersniper]

Use the procedure for aligning/ recentering the wheel discribed on the manual...

Done that mate. Have to do it nearly every lap.

 

[andrewhake]

6 aND 6?? you mean this for the In game Values for: FFB Max Torque and FFB Sensibility???

But to set that FFB torque to 6, that can only be usable if I set ELITE Internal FFB to 50% or less!!! If I would keep ELITE Internal FFB to 100% raising torque above 3 turns the wheel into a Truck´s Carrier´s Driving wheel like (heavy as one of that kind must be...)

It sounds like you aren't in Blue PS4 mode and still on purple compatibility mode.

 

[andrewhake]

Yes I have the ingame settings all set to 10 and on the wheel (FEI) set to 50-60. feels much better to predict when the front wheel will come loose and to prevent the "massive rattle". with these setting the wheel is torquey but drivable. And I dont feel much difference when changing Spring and Damper effects, whether is 0 or 100.

I think a lot of people are driving with their wheels in blue mode on extremely weak FFB settings so the rattle is greatly exaggerated. For me in blue mode on the default of 4 Max Torque there is very little FFB effect. I think the CSL Elite is actually setup to properly use the full range of FFB settings in GT Sport unlike many other wheels that only have about 4-5 useful settings before everything becomes too heavy. At the moment we get a lot more fine adjustment. Will be interesting to see if anything else changes in the next update on Monday.

 

[Mirror_man]

It sounds like you aren't in Blue PS4 mode and still on purple compatibility mode.

No I´m not! (on purple mode) And I´m sure I´m not color blind...

I think a lot of people are driving with their wheels in blue mode on extremely weak FFB settings so the rattle is greatly exaggerated. For me in blue mode on the default of 4 Max Torque there is very little FFB effect. I think the CSL Elite is actually setup to properly use the full range of FFB settings in GT Sport unlike many other wheels that only have about 4-5 useful settings before everything becomes too heavy. At the moment we get a lot more fine adjustment. Will be interesting to see if anything else changes in the next update on Monday.

And you have which values on Elite Wheel for these parameters: FF (FFB) and FO(Force) ???? 100 on both??

 

[super_gt]

Done that mate. Have to do it nearly every lap.

If you have increased the spring and you still have this problem contact with Fanatec(use the red support chat button)they will tell you what to do.

 

[John Moore]

6 aND 6?? you mean this for the In game Values for: FFB Max Torque and FFB Sensibility???

But to set that FFB torque to 6, that can only be usable if I set ELITE Internal FFB to 50% or less!!! If I would keep ELITE Internal FFB to 100% raising torque above 3 turns the wheel into a Truck´s Carrier´s Driving wheel like (heavy as one of that kind must be...)

I have it maxed out

I liked the new FFB so much, apart from the understeer rattle. With your settings, can you feel the oversteer and the increasing of resistance when turning in?

Yes, oversteer feels good,

I think a lot of people are driving with their wheels in blue mode on extremely weak FFB settings so the rattle is greatly exaggerated. For me in blue mode on the default of 4 Max Torque there is very little FFB effect. I think the CSL Elite is actually setup to properly use the full range of FFB settings in GT Sport unlike many other wheels that only have about 4-5 useful settings before everything becomes too heavy. At the moment we get a lot more fine adjustment. Will be interesting to see if anything else changes in the next update on Monday.

monday another update?? 1.17??

 

[Knukel]

Don't know for sure, but... Spring & damper are very often suggested to be set to 0 for games both on console & pc.
Possibility of loosing center is mentioned in the manual yes, but i think it's safe to say that it shouldn't happen just in couple of laps, without having issues with code wheel sensor.