CSL update - blue mode

[Mirror_man]

Don't know for sure, but... Spring & damper are very often suggested to be set to 0 for games both on console & pc.
Possibility of loosing center is mentioned in the manual yes, but i think it's safe to say that it shouldn't happen just in couple of laps, without having issues with code wheel sensor.

Does any body knows it the Spring & Damper variables are also important together (work in "tandem") with other variables like Drift, Shock?? And for example Force Feedback affects most of the others too?? Are all those variables truly independent?? And Force?? Increasing it or decreasing it will it intensify or reduce the effect of the remaining variables??

 

[poumpoum]

I finally had time to launch GT Sport for the first time tonight with my CSL Elite

The first thing I've noticed is that the FFB Sensibility doesn't change anything at all ! I've only tested road cars for now. Is it the same for you guys ?

 

[Eggmackan]

Does any body knows it the Spring & Damper variables are also important together (work in "tandem") with other variables like Drift, Shock?? And for example Force Feedback affects most of the others too?? Are all those variables truly independent?? And Force?? Increasing it or decreasing it will it intensify or reduce the effect of the remaining variables??

Im not sure alot depends on how the game sends information i think. But schock ive turned off it is only used if you have another wheel attached. The original csl wheel dont have any vibration inside it says in the manual

 

[Bartje_K77]

Hi there. My CSL Elite arrived on tuesday. Great wheel and I'm very pleased with it. For now I've just been racing with the standard wheel settings and strong force feedback (9). I've also set ffb sensitivity to 9, but I'm not sure if I notice a real difference.

Any suggestions on wheel settings or ffb in game to make the feel come more alive?

 

[Nando deBem]

I keep the in game at 3 and 3.
Drift -3
FEI OFF
And I think Spr at off or 0.

It’s gonna shake really heavy when you turn in too much. If you feel it’s too much, lower the For setting. It’s actually a good thing that it shakes when you turn in too much. Your wheels are kind of sideways and you’re losing speed / time. If that happens, try to turn in just until it starts vibrating, and control the turning with a little bit more braking or throttle. Change the brake balance a bit to the rear, it helps. Did it make sense?

 

[Mirror_man]

I finally had time to launch GT Sport for the first time tonight with my CSL Elite

The first thing I've noticed is that the FFB Sensibility doesn't change anything at all ! I've only tested road cars for now. Is it the same for you guys ?

No!!! It changes,, a lot!

 

[poumpoum]

No!!! It changes,, a lot!

Are you sure you're using the blue mode ? If yes, what is your FFB Max Torque setting ? (mine is at 3) I also use the stock Fanatec settings, perhaps you're using something different ?

For now I've just been racing with the standard wheel settings and strong force feedback (9). I've also set ffb sensitivity to 9, but I'm not sure if I notice a real difference.

Yep same feeling for me.

 

[fastone371]

I have been having a problem with my CSL Elite during on-line race prep. Sometimes when the screen changes and we are looking at the starting order screen my wheel will start shaking/vibrating pretty bad, bad enough that you can not race. The game and wheel must both be restarted to make it stop shaking. It happened to me again this morning so I started playing with settings, when I turn For all the way down the problem goes away but you have no steering resistance. Kind of sucks racing like that but its better than abandoning the race and taking a DR hit. I dont know if you guys with Fanatecs ever noticed but every time the screen changes the wheel kicks a little, this seems to be what sets it off. I am a little disappointed with Fanatec customer support at the moment.

 

[Nando deBem]

I have been having a problem with my CSL Elite during on-line race prep. Sometimes when the screen changes and we are looking at the starting order screen my wheel will start shaking/vibrating pretty bad, bad enough that you can not race. The game and wheel must both be restarted to make it stop shaking. It happened to me again this morning so I started playing with settings, when I turn For all the way down the problem goes away but you have no steering resistance. Kind of sucks racing like that but its better than abandoning the race and taking a DR hit. I dont know if you guys with Fanatecs ever noticed but every time the screen changes the wheel kicks a little, this seems to be what sets it off. I am a little disappointed with Fanatec customer support at the moment.

I had this issue. Never stop and retry a lap mid turn or flying through the grass. lol
If you see the count down before the race starts, just park your car before it gets to zero.

If you feel a small and fast, but strong shake when you press retry or when the count down goes to zero, just quickly turn the wheel off and on again. Don't wait for the race to start.

 

[fastone371]

I had this issue. Never stop and retry a lap mid turn or flying through the grass. lol
If you see the count down before the race starts, just park your car before it gets to zero.

If you feel a small and fast, but strong shake when you press retry or when the count down goes to zero, just quickly turn the wheel off and on again. Don't wait for the race to start.

You have had this with current update (1.17 ??) First time it happened to me was 1.16

 

[Nando deBem]

You have had this with current update (1.17 ??) First time it happened to me was 1.16

The same. When they implemented Fanatec support.

 

[Kgeldersma]

Had this happen. Was at the start of a league race. Finally was starting to run good that night then this happened at the beginning of the last race for the night. I just was like screw it, man handled the wheel for like 2 laps, then it quit shaking while in the race.

 

[DeuxMilles]

Hi,

are you guys really using blue mode?
I had to go back to purple because I can't stop the wheel rattle when the car starts to slide a bit over the front

cheers,
D.

 

[Nando deBem]

Hi,

are you guys really using blue mode?
I had to go back to purple because I can't stop the wheel rattle when the car starts to slide a bit over the front

cheers,
D.

This will help you.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/understeer-rattle-effect-poll-only-for-wheel-users.376839/page-2

 

[DeuxMilles]

Hi,

maybe I just don't understand the mentioned post. This rattle only exists in GT Sport, Blue Mode. Not in purple mode, not in PC2/blue Mode. It's heavy, very heavy.

D.

 

[Nando deBem]

Hi,

maybe I just don't understand the mentioned post. This rattle only exists in GT Sport, Blue Mode. Not in purple mode, not in PC2/blue Mode. It's heavy, very heavy.

D.

Yes, I just posted somewhere we are already talking about it and trying to figure it out.

 

[Mirror_man]

Hi,

maybe I just don't understand the mentioned post. This rattle only exists in GT Sport, Blue Mode. Not in purple mode, not in PC2/blue Mode. It's heavy, very heavy.

D.

if may be diminished considerably... and believe me or not. it´s a driving help.. and it trully helps, in several situations... I don´t love it.. but.. accept it .. and even use it. to help me in some situations (curving)... as I said it may be considerable diminished and becomes acceptable!!!

 

[andrewhake]

Are you sure you're using the blue mode ? If yes, what is your FFB Max Torque setting ? (mine is at 3) I also use the stock Fanatec settings, perhaps you're using something different ?

Both in-game settings absolutely do something, Your FFB Max Torque setting is very very low. I would definitely recommend bumping that up. (I use 9). The higher the max torque, the more effect the sensitivity setting will have. The sensitivity setting can be tested turning side to side on a straight. If your MT setting is low, the sensitivity setting will only be so powerful.

I use the default wheel settings and FFB MT: 9, FFB S: 9.

 

[andrewhake]

Hi,

are you guys really using blue mode?
I had to go back to purple because I can't stop the wheel rattle when the car starts to slide a bit over the front

cheers,
D.

I don't get any "understeer effect" at all unless I am wildly understeering off the track or spinning the car. I would recommend increasing your Max Torque and sensitivity setting to something that is more realistic. Real car's steering is much heavier than most people run in games. I think having FFB on weak settings magnifies this effect.

The CSL Elite in blue mode is a million times better than it is in purple mode.

 

[Knukel]

I would recommend increasing your Max Torque and sensitivity setting to something that is more realistic. Real car's steering is much heavier than most people run in games.

Do you run road cars?

 

[poumpoum]

The higher the max torque, the more effect the sensitivity setting will have. The sensitivity setting can be tested turning side to side on a straight.

Thanks ! I'm going to look into that.

Real car's steering is much heavier than most people run in games.

I don't agree with this at all. My trackday car has NO power assist and uses SLICK tyres (yoko A005) and believe me I can do a lap with only three fingers ! When I have to park the car the wheel is really heavy but that's all.

One of my old post from GT6 about that.

By the way I'm using the Universal HUB with a 35cm wheel (the exact same I have in my trackday car). It means that it's already more easy to turn the wheel than with the original CSL wheel (30cm). So my FFBMT at 3 means probably a 2 or even a 1 for you

 

[Nando deBem]

I don’t know what to think now! lol
@poumpoum, what’s your opinion on the “too much turn in understeer shaking”?

 

[Mirror_man]

Both in-game settings absolutely do something, Your FFB Max Torque setting is very very low. I would definitely recommend bumping that up. (I use 9). The higher the max torque, the more effect the sensitivity setting will have. The sensitivity setting can be tested turning side to side on a straight. If your MT setting is low, the sensitivity setting will only be so powerful.

I use the default wheel settings and FFB MT: 9, FFB S: 9.

One thing I don´t understand.. you say you use yur FFB (MT) Setting ON THE GAME (not on the wheel but with this wheel) on 9!!!

Then you must set your FFB and/or Force ON THE WHEEL to much lower values... or else you´d get the feeiling of driving an 18 wheeler.. I think... As I use ON THE WHEEL FFB 100 , FOR from 60 to 80, SPR 100 and DUmp 100, and I find values ON THE GAME above 4 on FFB excessive (to much weight on the wheel) , specially to GR.3, Gr.2 and Gr.1 cars...

 

[poumpoum]

What’s your opinion on the “too much turn in understeer shaking”?

When you do a HEAVY understeer IRL all the car vibrates and makes some noise but honestly I don't remember if you can feel that through the wheel too or only through your body.

I think that this effect is a good idea from PD but it's a little too much. But honestly I can live with that, this is not an issue for me and I don't think it can damage the wheel at all

What I really want to have is the rumble features for my CS Pedals V3, fealing the ABS through the brake pedal or the traction loss through the gas pedal would be a nice addition !

 

[CodeCmdr]

My Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 got delivered today!

Wheel firmware driver: 293 (the latest version)
Wheel mode: PS4 / blue
Wheel settings: everything at default
In-game max torque: I think 3 gave the wheel a realistic weight.
In-game sensitivity: I used 8 with my old T150, but with the CSL I went down to 6 for now.

Unfortunately, GTS' support for the CSL Elite is terrible! There's as good as no force-feedback at all! There's some weight to the wheel, but speed and traction doesn't have much of an effect on that. Sometimes there's a short, aggressive, earthquake-like rumble when one gets very strong understeer, but it's quite inconsistent, and there's no gradual progression to it. As for oversteer, there's zero feedback; really, none whatsoever!

I know GTS doesn't have the best force-feedback implementation in general, but my cheap Trustmaster T150 has MUCH better support in GTS and doesn't have this weird earthquake effect, and it gives fairly decent feedback on under and oversteer.

I tried the CSL in Project Cars 2 and it's absolutely amazing; the upgrade from the T150 is very noticeable in that game. I can even drive with the patch 5.0 hard slick tires now with this wheel, as it gives me great feedback on what they're doing.

 

[Mirror_man]

My Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 got delivered today!

Wheel firmware driver: 293 (the latest version)
Wheel mode: PS4 / blue
Wheel settings: everything at default
In-game max torque: I think 3 gave the wheel a realistic weight.
In-game sensitivity: I used 8 with my old T150, but with the CSL I went down to 6 for now.

Unfortunately, GTS' support for the CSL Elite is terrible! There's as good as no force-feedback at all! There's some weight to the wheel, but speed and traction doesn't have much of an effect on that. Sometimes there's a short, aggressive, earthquake-like rumble when one gets very strong understeer, but it's quite inconsistent, and there's no gradual progression to it. As for oversteer, there's zero feedback; really, none whatsoever!

I know GTS doesn't have the best force-feedback implementation in general, but my cheap Trustmaster T150 has MUCH better support in GTS and doesn't have this weird earthquake effect, and it gives fairly decent feedback on under and oversteer.

I tried the CSL in Project Cars 2 and it's absolutely amazing; the upgrade from the T150 is very noticeable in that game. I can even drive with the patch 5.0 hard slick tires now with this wheel, as it gives me great feedback on what they're doing.

No Force Feed back?? Something must be wrong... your wheel?? your settings?? yourself??? Surely!!!!

Setting on wheel FF to 100, and FOR from70 to 100, settings also on SHO, SPR, DPR at 100, and Fei at your taste (but I advise lower values to reduce shaking...)

If you still find that ffb is week, then set in game max torque to 4 or 5 (or ev en more. if you like the feeling of driving an 18 wheeler) , ffb in game sensibility from 8 to 10, and... with added shaking Fei from 80 to... 100 ... that will give more then enough FFB feeling...

 

[CodeCmdr]

No Force Feed back?? Something must be wrong... your wheel?? your settings?? yourself??? Surely!!!!

Setting on wheel FF to 100, and FOR from70 to 100, settings also on SHO, SPR, DPR at 100, and Fei at your taste (but I advise lower values to reduce shaking...)

If you still find that ffb is week, then set in game max torque to 4 or 5 (or ev en more. if you like the feeling of driving an 18 wheeler) , ffb in game sensibility from 8 to 10, and... with added shaking Fei from 80 to... 100 ... that will give more then enough FFB feeling...

What's wrong is that Polyphony's native support for the CSL Elite's (i.e. for when the wheel is operated in the PS4/blue mode) is very lackluster, or that they are by far not yet done with it and disappointed customers by releasing this feature way too early.

My wheel's FF/FOR/SHO/etc. values are all at 100, which is the default. Increasing the in-game Max Torque setting only makes the CSL Elite feel heavier, but it does not add any details as to when the tires start to lose grip. And the in-game Sensitivity setting is only a steering-input-angle-multiplier; it has nothing to do with force-feedback.

I heard other CSL Elite users say that GTS is actually quite alright when they use the wheel in the purple compatibility mode. If that's the case, then clearly Polyphony didn't bother supporting and optimizing their game for the CSL Elite. I just hope that they are still working on it and will improve the situation, because the wheel has a lot of potential. I'll go try the compatibility mode myself now...

 

[fastone371]

My Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 got delivered today!

Wheel firmware driver: 293 (the latest version)
Wheel mode: PS4 / blue
Wheel settings: everything at default
In-game max torque: I think 3 gave the wheel a realistic weight.
In-game sensitivity: I used 8 with my old T150, but with the CSL I went down to 6 for now.

Unfortunately, GTS' support for the CSL Elite is terrible! There's as good as no force-feedback at all! There's some weight to the wheel, but speed and traction doesn't have much of an effect on that. Sometimes there's a short, aggressive, earthquake-like rumble when one gets very strong understeer, but it's quite inconsistent, and there's no gradual progression to it. As for oversteer, there's zero feedback; really, none whatsoever!

I know GTS doesn't have the best force-feedback implementation in general, but my cheap Trustmaster T150 has MUCH better support in GTS and doesn't have this weird earthquake effect, and it gives fairly decent feedback on under and oversteer.

I tried the CSL in Project Cars 2 and it's absolutely amazing; the upgrade from the T150 is very noticeable in that game. I can even drive with the patch 5.0 hard slick tires now with this wheel, as it gives me great feedback on what they're doing.

I agree with Mr. Mirror Man on the in game Force Feedback settings. I set the in game at 3, my CSL Elite settings are pretty much exactly the same as Mr. Mirror Man's, if I put in game setting at 5, 6, or 7 the steering requires far too much effort to turn, I cant imagine anyone would want it that high. I use the in game FFB like the "rough" setting and the Fanatec settings to "fine tune" the feel, mainly "For", and "FFB" as it appears on the wheel rim itself when making adjustments. FEI I keep off or at zero, I forget what the minimum is. I also adjust "Sens" to my liking per car which is how much wheel rotation is required. If you dont want to change the default on the wheel just select a different user setting, I think you have 5, default should be #1, its the first adjustment when you press the wrench button, it will say S 1 on your wheel rim. Pick 2, 3, 4, or 5 and start messing around with settings until you find the feel you are looking for.

 

[Herrybo79]

Sometimes the Reaction is Really Slow with the Wheel, or my Wheel Shift by himself, someone with the same Problem?

 

[Mirror_man]

What's wrong is that Polyphony's native support for the CSL Elite's (i.e. for when the wheel is operated in the PS4/blue mode) is very lackluster, or that they are by far not yet done with it and disappointed customers by releasing this feature way too early.

My wheel's FF/FOR/SHO/etc. values are all at 100, which is the default. Increasing the in-game Max Torque setting only makes the CSL Elite feel heavier, but it does not add any details as to when the tires start to lose grip. And the in-game Sensitivity setting is only a steering-input-angle-multiplier; it has nothing to do with force-feedback.

I heard other CSL Elite users say that GTS is actually quite alright when they use the wheel in the purple compatibility mode. If that's the case, then clearly Polyphony didn't bother supporting and optimizing their game for the CSL Elite. I just hope that they are still working on it and will improve the situation, because the wheel has a lot of potential. I'll go try the compatibility mode myself now...

About "Sensibility".. you are a bit confused.. I was not touching the Wheel sensibility at all (configurable on the Wheel settings)
... that depends on the track and the car you´re driving...
but the Game FFB sensibility (that´s only configurable in GTS).. and that has nothing to do with angles or turning the wheel. but with the sensibility for the FFB effects... raise to the maximum and the game will transmit the maximum FFB effects possible to the wheel.. that is what that value means...

and so... to get less vibration one should reduce this value and the FEI value on the wheel tooo... (with some loss on remaining FFB effects. of course..)