CSL update - blue mode

[oldphart]

Ah, thanks

 

[Knukel]

Did the latest patch make CSL feel more heavy/dampened? IMO Drift 0 setup feels like minus values now, and there's constant resistance making the wheel heavier and less reactive with low Spring 60 & Damper 0 setups. It's still fast, but it's no longer smooth and light to catch. Now it reminds my old T150, dull.

 

[DeuxMilles]

Hi,

I also updated the firmware for my CSL, blue mode still not usable due to too much rattle. I hope they will fix it soon.

D.

 

[Mirror_man]

Hi,

I also updated the firmware for my CSL, blue mode still not usable due to too much rattle. I hope they will fix it soon.

D.

Adjust setting.... mine is updated and no rattle... there is reaction of the wheel when on understeetin, but that is not only acceptable but also helps.. a lot, once you understand to use that added info!

 

[DeuxMilles]

Hi,

Adjust setting.... mine is updated and no rattle... there is reaction of the wheel when on understeetin, but that is not only acceptable but also helps.. a lot, once you understand to use that added info!

adjust - how? I played around with the settings, it doesn't help. That there is a reaction on understeer is ok, but not that much. On PCars2 the cls works absolute well in blue mode with default settings. In GT Sport I have to use purple mode

D.

 

[fastone371]

Hi,



adjust - how? I played around with the settings, it doesn't help. That there is a reaction on understeer is ok, but not that much. On PCars2 the cls works absolute well in blue mode with default settings. In GT Sport I have to use purple mode

D.

Try reducing FEI to reduce or eliminate rattle. I use my CSI in blue with latest update

 

[Mirror_man]

Hi,



adjust - how? I played around with the settings, it doesn't help. That there is a reaction on understeer is ok, but not that much. On PCars2 the cls works absolute well in blue mode with default settings. In GT Sport I have to use purple mode

D.

What can I say??? No! Not "That is your problem dude!"

But I can say that:

I HAVE NO PROBLEMS AT ALL WITH MY CSL (PS4) ON BLUE MODE... ON GTS!!!

That wont help but it´s absolutely true!

But maybe this can help:

I´ve already shared my configuration and advises for slight changes on it, on GTPLANET.. on more then one thread... but to make thing easier for you.. I´ll repeat it...


My Best Settings
===========

a) On GTS config:

- Wheel turning sensitivity: 2 (you may try some variations between 1 and 5!!! depending on car and track...)
- FFB Torque: 9 !!! (may go to 10!!!! if you like to feel the steering a bit heavier) I´m using 10, now!!!
- FFB sensitivity: 10

b) On Fanatec Wheel Config:
- Sen: 084 (variations may go from Automatic, until 72 depending on car and track...)
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: OFF
- DRI: OFF (variations from -2 to + 2 depending on car, track and your taste/feeling) I use mostly offf
- FOR: 020 (if you like an heavier feeling on the wheel raise to 30 (eventually 40)... Aditionally... you may also raise on GTS FFB Torque to 10... if you like it really heavy... of course...)
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BRF: Off (or 10)
- FEI: 090 (or... 100!!!! ) I´m using 100

You´ll still feel some under steering vibration occasionally, but if you keep FOR on 20 and GTS FFB on 9, it will not be unpleasant at all.. and you´ll see that it even helps you.. giving you an important information about the trajectory you are using...

Please try this setup!!!!!
(FANATEC CSL PS4 Base setup only with brake cell mode)


Example: 2 days ago on BB raceway, with the Supra GT3, I verified that GTS Wheel turning sensitivity: 4 or 5 were very good together with GTS FFB Torque on 10, CSL Sens on 72, CSL FOR on 20, and CSL FEI on 100 (Just for this race and car)


I hope it helps!

NOW ... IF YOU DON´T BELIEVE ME, THAT I HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH THIS CONFIGURATION AT ALL... , I MUST SAY :

THAT´S YOUR PROBLEM DUDE! NOT MINE!... ANY MORE!!!

 

[oldphart]

I'm with MM
I use blue mode, no problems.
The rattle comes from the sidewall of the tire rubbing the asphalt. This is a direct result of driving style, not the wheel !
GTS, like other Sims, has it's own physics.
Once PD allows the Fanatec products to work as designed, then we'll see what we will see.
For now, stop over driving the corners .

 

[DeuxMilles]

Hi,

Try reducing FEI to reduce or eliminate rattle.

- FEI: 090 (or... 100!!!! ) I´m using 100

I wonder why it works in blue mode on PCars2 and purple mode on GTS but not in blue mode on GTS.

D.

 

[Keith2324]

First things first. PC Cars and GT Sport are two entirely different animals. When playing GT Sport in purple mode, you are EMULATING the Logitech G29 wheel. So if that wheel isn't experiencing those same effects, then the CSL wont either. But only in that mode. Furthermore, the CSL hasn't been fully implemented into GT Sport in blue mode, so a lot of the fine tuning adjustments aren't available. I hope this helps.

Keith.

 

[Mirror_man]

Hi,







I wonder why it works in blue mode on PCars2 and purple mode on GTS but not in blue mode on GTS.

D.

My config is for BLUE MODE and works pefectly on GTS...

 

[Eggmackan]

Yes the best solution if you find the rattle to much is to go with a higher torque setting in game. I use about 6 torque and 10 sensetivity. Then reduce the FOR Spring and damper settings on the wheel. It all comes down to personal taste in the end but there is a solution for those that dont like the rattle.
Reducing FEI setting is one of the worst way because you lose to much feedback. Better keep it at 50 (default) and adjust other settings

 

[fastone371]

D.[/QUOTE]

If you follow Mirror Mans advice you will be golden.

Yes the best solution if you find the rattle to much is to go with a higher torque setting in game. I use about 6 torque and 10 sensetivity. Then reduce the FOR Spring and damper settings on the wheel. It all comes down to personal taste in the end but there is a solution for those that dont like the rattle.
Reducing FEI setting is one of the worst way because you lose to much feedback. Better keep it at 50 (default) and adjust other settings

Hi,







I wonder why it works in blue mode on PCars2 and purple mode on GTS but not in blue mode on GTS.

Follow Mirror Mans advice and your wheel will feel great.

As far as FEI adjustment the only change I can feel is the understeer rattle severity, sometimes I change it between different cars. Mine is usually adjusted between 30 and 70.

 

[Eggmackan]

I dont like having FOR setting so low. Besides having torque on 10 and not lowering Spring setting makes the wheel centrering force to strong for my taste.
Damper is ok 100 that makes it easier to feel wheel traction.

 

[oldphart]

I run FEI @ 100 and the in game sensitivity @ 10
I can feel the back wheels hopping trying to get traction
Start with what MM has given you and adjust for taste.

I had to laugh as racing my friend who has the CSL, I hear his wheel sounding like a machine gun going off in my headset. Same corner, me with little or no rattle.

Stop blaming the wheel for over driving the corners. You're just pushing the front end of the car, not turning. That's what trail braking is all about.

 

[Mirror_man]

I dont like having FOR setting so low. Besides having torque on 10 and not lowering Spring setting makes the wheel centrering force to strong for my taste.
Damper is ok 100 that makes it easier to feel wheel traction.

Honestly I thing that SPR as no effect on race... try 0/off, 50 or 100% and honestly tell me the difference... if you feel it...

I run FEI @ 100 and the in game sensitivity @ 10
I can feel the back wheels hopping trying to get traction
Start with what MM has given you and adjust for taste.

I had to laugh as racing my friend who has the CSL, I hear his wheel sounding like a machine gun going off in my headset. Same corner, me with little or no rattle.

Stop blaming the wheel for over driving the corners. You're just pushing the front end of the car, not turning. That's what trail braking is all about.

EXACTLY!!!

 

[Pfoetiman]

I use these settings atm:

Sen 59
FF 100
SHO 80
ABS 70
DRI OFF
FOR 90
SPR 70
DPR 90
BrF 010
FEI 060

In Game Torque 9
Sensitivity 10

 

[Mirror_man]

I run FEI @ 100 and the in game sensitivity @ 10
I can feel the back wheels hopping trying to get traction
Start with what MM has given you and adjust for taste.

I had to laugh as racing my friend who has the CSL, I hear his wheel sounding like a machine gun going off in my headset. Same corner, me with little or no rattle.

Stop blaming the wheel for over driving the corners. You're just pushing the front end of the car, not turning. That's what trail braking is all about.

I use these settings atm:

Sen 59
FF 100
SHO 80
ABS 70
DRI OFF
FOR 90
SPR 70
DPR 90
BrF 010
FEI 060

In Game Torque 9
Sensitivity 10

Game torque 9 and For 90.. is really to much.. the wheel has got to feel much lighter in your hands...

consider like this:

divide For by 10 and sum to Game Torque,,, max sum should be from 10 (light) to 15 (the heaviest) or least than that..

 

[Pfoetiman]

I more prefer it when the wheel is heavy. I tried your settings and I had a light wheel with almost no resistance. It feelt like there was no FFB.

 

[Mirror_man]

I more prefer it when the wheel is heavy. I tried your settings and I had a light wheel with almost no resistance. It feelt like there was no FFB.

By Rising Torque you are not really implementing FFB mostly you are only increasing the resistence and the jolts that the wheel outputs... and sincerilly that is not what you need..

 

[Brzlav]

Have jumped to the last side as I am considering buying the Fanatec wheel and wanted to see if there are good settings. Thanks @Mirror_man, great info and not too much "..."

 

[Mirror_man]

Have jumped to the last side as I am considering buying the Fanatec wheel and wanted to see if there are good settings. Thanks @Mirror_man, great info and not too much "..."

Please look through this thread too.. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/conversations/csl-erw-settings-gts.1612152/#message-2818729

 

[Pfoetiman]

By Rising Torque you are not really implementing FFB mostly you are only increasing the resistence and the jolts that the wheel outputs... and sincerilly that is not what you need..

Do you mean I should put game torque maximum to 6? FOR in the wheel is more important than the game torque.

 

[Mirror_man]

Do you mean I should put game torque maximum to 6? FOR in the wheel is more important than the game torque.

No... unless you have For above 40!! And it s pratically with same importance... like 60 percent ...

Theres another issue envolved with ffb + torque hifh values... it s called wheel clipping... google about it...

 

[DC2_Evan]

I have like everything maxed out except shock, which is at 80, and the lowest DRI setting. I'm pretty sure I have my in game feedback settings maxed out as well. I like the heavy steering.

 

[Mirror_man]

I have like everything maxed out except shock, which is at 80, and the lowest DRI setting. I'm pretty sure I have my in game feedback settings maxed out as well. I like the heavy steering.

After setting the values lower and after doing several races on a track where you ve got really fast curves and more than one hairpin. Per lap. you ll notice the difference... mainly in lap time... and how easier it becomes...curving in those...curves... Susuka for example.. and tsukuba (3 hairspins..)

 

[DC2_Evan]

After setting the values lower and after doing several races on a track where you ve got really fast curves and more than one hairpin. Per lap. you ll notice the difference... mainly in lap time... and how easier it becomes...curving in those...curves... Susuka for example

I don't have any issues in the fast corners, as I keep my inputs extremely smooth like in my dc2 at Mid-Ohio. Every once in a while I may have a harder time in slow speed corners like at Monza but I work my way around that.

 

[Eggmackan]

I have like everything maxed out except shock, which is at 80, and the lowest DRI setting. I'm pretty sure I have my in game feedback settings maxed out as well. I like the heavy steering.

Shock should have no effect if you are using the original wheel rim as it is a setting for vibration motors inside the wheel rim, wich does not exist in that wheel

 

[DC2_Evan]

That I was not aware of. I guess I'll just leave it where its at lol

 

[Mirror_man]

I don't have any issues in the fast corners, as I keep my inputs extremely smooth like in my dc2 at Mid-Ohio. Every once in a while I may have a harder time in slow speed corners like at Monza but I work my way around that.

You ll feel the difference even more with Gr1, 2 and 3 cars... and of course also with Red Bull and the Audi Etron VGT (cars with high Hp and strong grip)