CSL update - blue mode

[Pfoetiman]

I don't have any issues in the fast corners, as I keep my inputs extremely smooth like in my dc2 at Mid-Ohio. Every once in a while I may have a harder time in slow speed corners like at Monza but I work my way around that.

At Bathurst I had no problems with my settings. With a lighter wheel I had more problems! Yesterday Gr. 3 daily race C.

 

[Mirror_man]

At Bathurst I had no problems with my settings. With a lighter wheel I had more problems! Yesterday Gr. 3 daily race C.

On that track you wont feel much difference... I know... and I´m not that fond on that track.. either...

 

[DC2_Evan]

You ll feel the difference even more with Gr1, 2 and 3 cars... and of course also with Red Bull and the Audi Etron VGT (cars with high Hp and strong grip)

I find that I'm very fast in the group 2 cars with the heavy steering, as well as group 3. I avoid group 1 though, my brain usually isn't able to keep up with the outright speed of the cars.

 

[Mirror_man]

I find that I'm very fast in the group 2 cars with the heavy steering, as well as group 3. I avoid group 1 though, my brain usually isn't able to keep up with the outright speed of the cars.

But you can be even faster.. you know??

 

[DC2_Evan]

But you can be even faster.. you know??

If I want to be faster, I'll go out in my car to a track day lol. GTS is for fun and learning and practicing things like heel and toe and left foot braking. It's all to improve my speed in a 22 year old Honda at track days to embarrass older guys in Porsche 911s and BMW M3s

 

[Mirror_man]

If I want to be faster, I'll go out in my car to a track day lol. GTS is for fun and learning and practicing things like heel and toe and left foot braking. It's all to improve my speed in a 22 year old Honda at track days to embarrass older guys in Porsche 911s and BMW M3s

Yeah.. but real racing practice may help but it is not enough to make you a top GTS racer... the game has it´s own things... issues.. tricks. .problems... as it aint the real thing...

 

[DC2_Evan]

Yeah.. but real racing practice may help but it is not enough to make you a top GTS racer... the game has it´s own things... issues.. tricks. .problems... as it aint the real thing...

I'm not worried about being a top GTS driver though. I just want to have some fun and "race" cars when I can't make it to the track. I don't care if I'm in the top 10 or not, as long as I have some good, close racing. I'm consistently within the top 1000 for quali times according to the GT Companion app.

 

[Pfoetiman]

Just tried the light wheel at Dragon Trail, one of my favourite tracks. I have big problems with the light wheel when turning. Maybe it is my problem, because of the skills I don‘t have. I am missing the fun too with a light wheel.

 

[Mirror_man]

Just tried the light wheel at Dragon Trail, one of my favourite tracks. I have big problems with the light wheel when turning. Maybe it is my problem, because of the skills I don‘t have. I am missing the fun too with a light wheel.

May happen... which values ure using on Ffb torque and Force??? And which car,?

 

[Pfoetiman]

Viper Gr.3
Ingame torque 6
Force 80

 

[Mirror_man]

Viper Gr.3
Ingame torque 6
Force 80

?????

You call that light??? It seems to me that those settings would result in a very heavy wheel, dude!!

Light is this one:

In.Tor.9
For.20

That or IT 10 +FO 20 or 10 10...that is light.. ( and can be even more... if you drop IT value...

Aniway. I m still trying different combinations of those 2 itemss...

And I think that with IT 6, For. from 40 to 60 could do it nicelly... and yet not be to light... the feeling

 

[DaigoD]

I am kind off in the middle between you two.

Ingame Torque 10
FOR 40

Feels just right for me.

BRF seems to be different depending on the car.

BRF 10 for Gr 4 feels the same as BRF OFF for Gr 3.

 

[Pfoetiman]

?????

You call that light??? It seems to me that those settings would result in a very heavy wheel, dude!!

Which firmware do you use. I took the v448.

Did you update base plus pedals or both apart. I just have read that you should do it apart. I will do that later today.

 

[Mirror_man]

Which firmware do you use. I took the v448.

Did you update base plus pedals or both apart. I just have read that you should do it apart. I will do that later today.

9

To update pedals separately you must have the usb adapter from them... and I dont have it

But you dont need it unless you only use it separated from the base...

I have the very last fimware installed...

 

[Pfoetiman]

9

To update pedals separately you must have the usb adapter from them... and I dont have it

I connected the pedals to my pc. Only the pedals. I disconnected it from the wheel base and connected it via the usb cable that came with the load cell pedals. There is an USB port in the black box of the pedals.

 

[Mirror_man]

I connected the pedals to my pc. Only the pedals. I disconnected it from the wheel base and connected it via the usb cable that came with the load cell pedals. There is an USB port in the black box of the pedals.

Nice... and?? Made the firmware update then??

 

[Pfoetiman]

Nice... and?? Made the firmware update then??

Yes there was an update for the pedals and than I made the firmware update for the wheel base.

 

[Mirror_man]

Yes there was an update for the pedals and than I made the firmware update for the wheel base.

Felt any difference after??

 

[Pfoetiman]

Felt any difference after??

Had no time to test it. Will try it tomorrow.

 

[RA1784]

Does anyone know how to add a deadzone to the brake pedal? It reacts very sensitive by minimal touching.
(CSL LC Brf 50. Latest update installed)

 

[Pfoetiman]

Does anyone know how to add a deadzone to the brake pedal? It reacts very sensitive by minimal touching.
(CSL LC Brf 50. Latest update installed)

I am not sure, but if you connect your wheel to your pc there is an option to disable the auto calibration of the pedals. (It is called “Enable ... LC ... ) You can set the min and max output of clutch, brake and throttle.
But if you have these settings at GTS? I didn’t have the time to test it yet.

 

[Pfoetiman]

I am not sure, but if you connect your wheel to your pc there is an option to disable the auto calibration of the pedals. (It is called “Enable ... LC ... ) You can set the min and max output of clutch, brake and throttle.
But if you have these settings at GTS? I didn’t have the time to test it yet.

Hell yeah, it works. If you need help just let me know.

 

[RA1784]

Very nice. I didnt see that option. Thanks for the quick answer.

 

[Knukel]

@Pfoetiman Have you had any issues with the wheel's center calibration? I mean do you ever need to do manual center calibration while in-game on PS4 or does it work perfectly?

 

[Pfoetiman]

@Pfoetiman Have you had any issues with the wheel's center calibration? I mean do you ever need to do manual center calibration while in-game on PS4 or does it work perfectly?

I did some but I don‘t think it was necessary because before the race starts the wheel calibrate the center. At least that‘s what I recognised.

 

[Pfoetiman]

Felt any difference after??

No. But that doesn‘t mean anything. Just got my wheel a week ago. But I already noticed it was the best decision to buy it. 1.000.000 times better than my old TM300. The LC pedals are also a wet dream.

 

[JamCar0ne]

Several weeks ago I gave @Mirror-man's setup a try, and at first thought it was waay to light. It reminded me of using 1/10 in GT6 with the T300. After giving it a fair effort (weeks), I am really liking what he has achieved and the direction it has led me.

I was struggling with turn in where the wheel sort of felt spongy at first and when it tightened up when to understeer then earthquake. Found most of this to be caused by running too high of a number for controller sensitivity setting (CSS) in game and SEN at 84. When I switched SEN to AUT and 0 for CSS, the sponginess went away.

The hardest part is figuring out what to adjust and when to adjust it. At one point, I was using all five wheel profiles trying different strategies chasing the elusive baseline setup. Down to two profiles now and they are very similar. The difference being FOR setting of either 20 or 30. When running 20, FFMT is 10 and when at 30 I drop FFMT to 5. The 30 / 5 setting seems to have a little more road feel without an over bearing earthquake.

My goal is to have a baseline setup to test any car with and only make minor adjustments if needed (wheel profile change). The settings below are close.

SEN AUT
FF 100
SHO OFF
ABS 60
DR1 -02
FOR 20 / 30
SPR 20
DPR 40
BRF 28
FEI 100

In Game Settings:
CSS -2 to 2 depending upon car but favor 0
FFMT 10 / 5
FFS 10

 

[Mirror_man]

Several weeks ago I gave @Mirror-man's setup a try, and at first thought it was waay to light. It reminded me of using 1/10 in GT6 with the T300. After giving it a fair effort (weeks), I am really liking what he has achieved and the direction it has led me.

I was struggling with turn in where the wheel sort of felt spongy at first and when it tightened up when to understeer then earthquake. Found most of this to be caused by running too high of a number for controller sensitivity setting (CSS) in game and SEN at 84. When I switched SEN to AUT and 0 for CSS, the sponginess went away.

The hardest part is figuring out what to adjust and when to adjust it. At one point, I was using all five wheel profiles trying different strategies chasing the elusive baseline setup. Down to two profiles now and they are very similar. The difference being FOR setting of either 20 or 30. When running 20, FFMT is 10 and when at 30 I drop FFMT to 5. The 30 / 5 setting seems to have a little more road feel without an over bearing earthquake.

My goal is to have a baseline setup to test any car with and only make minor adjustments if needed (wheel profile change). The settings below are close.

SEN AUT
FF 100
SHO OFF
ABS 60
DR1 -02
FOR 20 / 30
SPR 20
DPR 40
BRF 28
FEI 100

In Game Settings:
CSS -2 to 2 depending upon car but favor 0
FFMT 10 / 5
FFS 10

Nice!

I liked mainly of your CSS value conclusion!

But I still find your FFMT excessive... probably reducing it and increasing FOR to 30/40, and maybe think also in reducing FEI to 60...

One question... with ABS on 60... I´m curious... What pedals do you have??? This variable wont change any thing if you have the base pedals, even with the Brake Cell Mod!

 

[JamCar0ne]

But I still find your FFMT excessive... probably reducing it and increasing FOR to 30/40, and maybe think also in reducing FEI to 60...

Wait...what?? Have you re-read your post and the Force Feedback Max Torque (FFMT) settings you recommended? I don't see how my 10 setting would be anymore excessive than your 10 setting. Also, I explain in my post of lowering to 5 when using FOR 30. Now that I am honing in on a good baseline setup, I may fiddle with some of the finer adjustments. But for now, I will stand by the setup I posted.

One question... with ABS on 60... I´m curious... What pedals do you have??? This variable wont change any thing if you have the base pedals, even with the Brake Cell Mod!

I have the V3i pedals and ABS is used to set where the little rumble motor engages during pedal travel. It's a fairly weak rumble and I usually don't notice it when driving. I set this number when I was using the stock foam plugs and should revisit this setting now that I have installed the red/green plugs.

 

[Mirror_man]

Wait...what?? Have you re-read your post and the Force Feedback Max Torque (FFMT) settings you recommended? I don't see how my 10 setting would be anymore excessive than your 10 setting. Also, I explain in my post of lowering to 5 when using FOR 30. Now that I am honing in on a good baseline setup, I may fiddle with some of the finer adjustments. But for now, I will stand by the setup I posted.



I have the V3i pedals and ABS is used to set where the little rumble motor engages during pedal travel. It's a fairly weak rumble and I usually don't notice it when driving. I set this number when I was using the stock foam plugs and should revisit this setting now that I have installed the red/green plugs.

the 10 is ok...on FFS... as for FFMT I actually only use 1 or 2... at same time I raised a bit FOR but even so I never raise it above 50... and FEI from 50 to 70...

and of course you add to have the V3i pedals!! You lucky dude!