CSL update - blue mode

  • Thread starter oldphart
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Yes is fixed
raw
 
Thanks PD !

Even if at this point I have no hope for a full compatibility. Could you please consider adding support for :
- rev lights
- brake pedal rumble (ABS)
- gas pedal rumble (traction loss)
- steering wheel rumbles -> this one is really sad since PD seems to master this effect on the T-GT
 
Last FIA races my CSL (v310) had some problems with downshifting. Sometimes it didn´t downshift at all sometimes 2 gears :irked:. And yes I did restart the game and wheel after it happened first time. After about 6 month without any problems this happend the first time.
Anyone else got this problem or knows a solution beside sending it back to Fanatec?
 
I'm using v 476 and have no issues. I did have problems before this update, but those have been resolved with this latest update

Just checked Fanatec and i found a v311 for CSL PS4. I think v311 was specially for the Mclaren wheel. Where did you get v476?
But I will try to update to v311 and hope this will be fixed. If it will be a mechanical or sensor problem I need to send it to Fanatec anyway
 
I'm using v 476 and have no issues. I did have problems before this update, but those have been resolved with this latest update.

V476???????????????? :crazy::drool::odd::confused::confused::confused:

Lol.. that´s the Firmware Version that comes with last version for CSL ELite PS4 driver, which is... for 64bit the beta 311... :)
 
Ok got it. Driver v311 and firmware v476 installed. Will try later if it works.

Edit: Tried a few laps in Interlagos and no problems so far :)
 
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Good to hear Garix. Until the 1.26 update, I was having issues with the wheel loosing center.
Now ? Life is good again :)

MM - that's how my wheel came back from the RMA, with 476 showing up on start up. Glad you got your wheel back.
 
Can you please share your CSL elite FFB settings in wheel and in game?

THXS!

Updated settings.. (more or less..) :)

This are the Settings that I advise using: (not a fixed setting but variable depending of car and track)

In Game:
CSS: 0 to 3 (mostly 1.. and I think it wont have any impact on your driving... as it´s said that it only is important to users using the DS4..)
FFB Torque: 1 to 4 (mostly 1 to 3) There is a wide spread information that any value above 4 will induce clipping to the CSL Elite...
FFB Sens: 5 to 10 (mostly 6 to 8) You have to lower the value if you use purple mode...

Wheel:
SENS: AUT or variable depending on car and track (I try a few laps before deciding and tuning) this was before 1.25 update.... as it looks that Aut is not working any more... you must use different values according to the car driven... Road cars: above 75... GT3, GT2, GT1 bellow 65...
FF : 100 - Update: With 1.26 update seems that Aut works again.. but the reference values posted in this issue may work fine, also!
SHO: 0 minimum... but sincerely may use it on 100 also... I´m not sure that it will make any difference...
ABS: 50 (but I think that 0 or 100 will do the same...) - Will be different with Brake Sport Pedals V3 - Mine are the CSL Elite with Brake Mod (so far)
DRI: -5 to 3 (4 and 5 may be used in special conditions)... >0 speeds up turning the wheel... sometimes.. to much.. (depends...)
FOR: 40 to 80 (depends on the down force and grip of the car you´re using...)
SPR: 10 minimum... but sincerely may use it on 100 also... I´m not sure that it will make any difference...
DPR: 100 to 120!!!
BRF: 0 to 30 (I have the brake Mod and above 40 makes hard braking absolutely needed... With this mod, if BRF too high, full braking will not be achieved even using all your weight on the brake pedal...) For V3 pedals is completely opposite!
FEI: 30 to 100 (mostly 30 to 50) I think you may raise it to 80 or 100 on Purple mode - I´m not yet sure if with blue mode I should drop it ot 0.. or 10... still testing this... since things have changed a bit with 1.23 version , new Tyre model.. and I´ve been out of GTS for some weeks...

I hope it helps!
 
What can I say??? No! Not "That is your problem dude!"

But I can say that:

I HAVE NO PROBLEMS AT ALL WITH MY CSL (PS4) ON BLUE MODE... ON GTS!!!

That wont help but it´s absolutely true!

But maybe this can help:

I´ve already shared my configuration and advises for slight changes on it, on GTPLANET.. on more then one thread... but to make thing easier for you.. I´ll repeat it...


My Best Settings
===========

a) On GTS config:


- Wheel turning sensitivity: 2 (you may try some variations between 1 and 5!!! depending on car and track...)
- FFB Torque: 9 !!! (may go to 10!!!! if you like to feel the steering a bit heavier) I´m using 10, now!!!
- FFB sensitivity: 10

b) On Fanatec Wheel Config:

- Sen: 084 (variations may go from Automatic, until 72 depending on car and track...)
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: OFF
- DRI: OFF (variations from -2 to + 2 depending on car, track and your taste/feeling) I use mostly offf
- FOR: 020 (if you like an heavier feeling on the wheel raise to 30 (eventually 40)... Aditionally... you may also raise on GTS FFB Torque to 10... if you like it really heavy... of course...)
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BRF: Off (or 10)
- FEI: 090 (or... 100!!!! ) I´m using 100

You´ll still feel some under steering vibration occasionally, but if you keep FOR on 20 and GTS FFB on 9, it will not be unpleasant at all.. and you´ll see that it even helps you.. giving you an important information about the trajectory you are using...

Please try this setup!!!!!
(FANATEC CSL PS4 Base setup only with brake cell mode)


Example: 2 days ago on BB raceway, with the Supra GT3, I verified that GTS Wheel turning sensitivity: 4 or 5 were very good together with GTS FFB Torque on 10, CSL Sens on 72, CSL FOR on 20, and CSL FEI on 100 (Just for this race and car)


I hope it helps! :)

NOW ... IF YOU DON´T BELIEVE ME, THAT I HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH THIS CONFIGURATION AT ALL... , I MUST SAY :

THAT´S YOUR PROBLEM DUDE! NOT MINE!... ANY MORE!!!
Thank you! :)
 
Updated settings.. (more or less..) :)

This are the Settings that I advise using: (not a fixed setting but variable depending of car and track)

In Game:
CSS: 0 to 3 (mostly 1.. and I think it wont have any impact on your driving... as it´s said that it only is important to users using the DS4..)
FFB Torque: 1 to 4 (mostly 1 to 3) There is a wide spread information that any value above 4 will induce clipping to the CSL Elite...
FFB Sens: 5 to 10 (mostly 6 to 8) You have to lower the value if you use purple mode...

Wheel:
SENS: AUT or variable depending on car and track (I try a few laps before deciding and tuning) this was before 1.25 update.... as it looks that Aut is not working any more... you must use different values according to the car driven... Road cars: above 75... GT3, GT2, GT1 bellow 65...
FF : 100 - Update: With 1.26 update seems that Aut works again.. but the reference values posted in this issue may work fine, also!
SHO: 0 minimum... but sincerely may use it on 100 also... I´m not sure that it will make any difference...
ABS: 50 (but I think that 0 or 100 will do the same...) - Will be different with Brake Sport Pedals V3 - Mine are the CSL Elite with Brake Mod (so far)
DRI: -5 to 3 (4 and 5 may be used in special conditions)... >0 speeds up turning the wheel... sometimes.. to much.. (depends...)
FOR: 40 to 80 (depends on the down force and grip of the car you´re using...)
SPR: 10 minimum... but sincerely may use it on 100 also... I´m not sure that it will make any difference...
DPR: 100 to 120!!!
BRF: 0 to 30 (I have the brake Mod and above 40 makes hard braking absolutely needed... With this mod, if BRF too high, full braking will not be achieved even using all your weight on the brake pedal...) For V3 pedals is completely opposite!
FEI: 30 to 100 (mostly 30 to 50) I think you may raise it to 80 or 100 on Purple mode - I´m not yet sure if with blue mode I should drop it ot 0.. or 10... still testing this... since things have changed a bit with 1.23 version , new Tyre model.. and I´ve been out of GTS for some weeks...

I hope it helps!
Thank you!
 
Hey guys, I just got my CSL Elite. Other than the strange under-steer feedback it's pretty nice.

I am not getting any braking feedback though. No vibration or anything from locking the front brakes - I know the pedals do not have vibration motors, but in other games (forza, etc) I get some wheel vibration when I'm at the braking threshold. Just wondering if my wheel is setup wrong or if that's just a GT sport limitation.
 
I've done a lot of testing today with the combo race car / SEN @ 540° (usually I drive road cars) :
- purple mode : FFS act as an FEI parameter. At 10 you have the original / sharp signal and at 1 it is smoother with less noise. The difference between 1 and 10 is huge ! With high FFS values you can have difficulties to handle the wheel in straights. The FFS range is much bigger than the FEI range, 1 step in FFS is almost the equivalent of the whole FEI range.
- blue mode : now I've seen how it works with purple mode (and I guess it's the same thing for other wheels) I can say that this parameter is "broken" for the blue mode. If you really pay attention, at high speed in straight YES you can feel a subtle difference between 1 and 10 but it's really really light. I don't think that this 10 steps range was designed to have a so small impact on FFB.

IMO, they have developped the CSL Elite driver quickly (because they had to) and they only focused on the FFMT (the core algorithm for FFB). Unfortunately, now the FFMT works with our CSL Elite, the FFS needs some rework but they didn't do it, like for the rev lights, the pedals rumbles (ABS and traction loss), steering wheel rumbles etc... Unfortunately I don't have hope for a CSL support update at this point :(

What is FFS??
Hey guys, I just got my CSL Elite. Other than the strange under-steer feedback it's pretty nice.

I am not getting any braking feedback though. No vibration or anything from locking the front brakes - I know the pedals do not have vibration motors, but in other games (forza, etc) I get some wheel vibration when I'm at the braking threshold. Just wondering if my wheel is setup wrong or if that's just a GT sport limitation.

As far as I know you need the V3 load cell pedals if you want lock up feedback. I have the V3 set and I can feel the ABS vibration motor vibrating under hard braking but I think the tire sounds give you better feedback as to what the car is doing under braking than the pedal vibration.
 
Hey guys, I just got my CSL Elite. Other than the strange under-steer feedback it's pretty nice.

I am not getting any braking feedback though. No vibration or anything from locking the front brakes - I know the pedals do not have vibration motors, but in other games (forza, etc) I get some wheel vibration when I'm at the braking threshold. Just wondering if my wheel is setup wrong or if that's just a GT sport limitation.

If you want to feel that.. raise the FEI value.. on the Wheel main setup panel, and drop the ingame (GTS) FFB torque to a value bellow 4 ... (to avoid "clipping")
 
FFB Torque: 1 to 4 (mostly 1 to 3) There is a wide spread information that any value above 4 will induce clipping to the CSL Elite...

This is 100% not true. Anyone who thinks a setting above 4 induces clipping doesn't know what clipping is. CSL Elite feels MUCH better at higher settings in GT Sport. 1 to 4 in-game FFB will be nearly zero FFB at all and be completely unrealistic even on any modern car with strong power steering.

I understand this sort of thing can be subjective, but the idea that anything above 4 will introduce clipping is just objectively wrong.
 
This is 100% not true. Anyone who thinks a setting above 4 induces clipping doesn't know what clipping is. CSL Elite feels MUCH better at higher settings in GT Sport. 1 to 4 in-game FFB will be nearly zero FFB at all and be completely unrealistic even on any modern car with strong power steering.

I understand this sort of thing can be subjective, but the idea that anything above 4 will introduce clipping is just objectively wrong.

What is said.. is one thing... what is felt .. is another and depends on each one... and idependently of what is said . being or not correct... this settings I use and I like them .. a lot.. to much (above 4) would make the need to drop FOR a lot... to values really really low... (like 10 to 20) and I like the feeling of in game FFB close to the one I used with my T500Rs (between 1 and 3) ... and with a FOR value also on middle range (from 50 to 70 - I wrote on my advice 40 to 80) like this I get all the "detail" and all the force I need.. and I like to have a light wheel that I can turn easily and fast, and without the wheel being .. like taken out of my hands, on quick snap issues... it´s me who drives the wheel and not the wheel that drives me...
 
This is 100% not true. Anyone who thinks a setting above 4 induces clipping doesn't know what clipping is. CSL Elite feels MUCH better at higher settings in GT Sport. 1 to 4 in-game FFB will be nearly zero FFB at all and be completely unrealistic even on any modern car with strong power steering.

I understand this sort of thing can be subjective, but the idea that anything above 4 will introduce clipping is just objectively wrong.
I don't know if there is clipping or not but I've never understood the high force feedback that a lot of simracers seem to use !

I'm already using a wheel with a bigger diameter (almost only 35cm wheels) so it's easier to turn the wheel, but even with my wheels I never use more than 3 or 4 FFMT.

I drive a track day car (semi slick tyres, no power assist) and I can turn the steering wheel on the track (when the car is rolling) with only 2 fingers !!! The lighter the wheel is, the better you feel feel the car IMO
 
I don't know if there is clipping or not but I've never understood the high force feedback that a lot of simracers seem to use !

I'm already using a wheel with a bigger diameter (almost only 35cm wheels) so it's easier to turn the wheel, but even with my wheels I never use more than 3 or 4 FFMT.

I drive a track day car (semi slick tyres, no power assist) and I can turn the steering wheel on the track (when the car is rolling) with only 2 fingers !!! The lighter the wheel is, the better you feel feel the car IMO

I agree with this comment. What I dont like about having in game FFB above 4 is I have to run my CSL Force setting below 40-50. When I run higher in game FFB the wheel tries to push back far too hard after straightening out the wheel when the transfers back to the "light" side of the car, it's a very unnatural and far too strong of an effect
 
I also prefer my wheel to be more light so forces will gradually enhanced in turns, can rely on them and finally be able to
feel every feedback possible to cheat my brain.
I hate dumper effects cause I can feel the belt resistance so much, it reminds me of a cheap toy. So I always drive with DRI setting OFF or 1. In some cases I may turn it to maximum 3 (4 and 5 has very very quick rotation).
Always I was a simracing enthusiast and when I got enough money I entered to the simcaring hobby, almost ten years ago. It's not a plug n play experience, it requires a lot of tweaking and placebo to really enjoy this hobby. But all of us, in this sport, we must rely in our uniqe personal sense's. So, for me I will not recommend to apply wheel settings from others person's settings even if they have the same wheel. You must find your own prefferable wheel ffb behavior, and then you will have the foundation of a great experience.
 
I'm excited to try it out after work tonight. Also, @Mirror_man after many months, I have turned down my FOR a little bit and I can see what you mean. I still keep it on the heavy side, but I do feel a little bit more detail
 
I'm excited to try it out after work tonight. Also, @Mirror_man after many months, I have turned down my FOR a little bit and I can see what you mean. I still keep it on the heavy side, but I do feel a little bit more detail
:) And specially in tracks like Tsukuba.... I believe it may help a lot.. tooo...
 
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