CSL update - blue mode

  • Thread starter oldphart
  • 429 comments
  • 58,200 views
I still get alot of understeer rattle after patch must have been reduced by a very small amount im not noticing a big difference

Display your wheel and game settings.. and maybe we may help discover why..and how to reduce it...
 
3 torque
8 sensetivity

Settings on wheel is default have only reduced FEI to 20-30 to get less rattle and sound from wheel.

Sorry but I dont remember default values for : For and Spr are the both 100??

If so.. reduce For to 50 or 60 and spr the same... probably will help not feeling the wheel so light raising torque to 4 or 5... you must try an equilibrium between For and torque close to these ranges... specially with For bellow 70 or 60 and torque not above 6... thats my advice...
 
What can I say??? No! Not "That is your problem dude!"

But I can say that:

I HAVE NO PROBLEMS AT ALL WITH MY CSL (PS4) ON BLUE MODE... ON GTS!!!

That wont help but it´s absolutely true!

But maybe this can help:

I´ve already shared my configuration and advises for slight changes on it, on GTPLANET.. on more then one thread... but to make thing easier for you.. I´ll repeat it...


My Best Settings
===========

a) On GTS config:


- Wheel turning sensitivity: 2 (you may try some variations between 1 and 5!!! depending on car and track...)
- FFB Torque: 9 !!! (may go to 10!!!! if you like to feel the steering a bit heavier) I´m using 10, now!!!
- FFB sensitivity: 10

b) On Fanatec Wheel Config:

- Sen: 084 (variations may go from Automatic, until 72 depending on car and track...)
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: OFF
- DRI: OFF (variations from -2 to + 2 depending on car, track and your taste/feeling) I use mostly offf
- FOR: 020 (if you like an heavier feeling on the wheel raise to 30 (eventually 40)... Aditionally... you may also raise on GTS FFB Torque to 10... if you like it really heavy... of course...)
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BRF: Off (or 10)
- FEI: 090 (or... 100!!!! ) I´m using 100

You´ll still feel some under steering vibration occasionally, but if you keep FOR on 20 and GTS FFB on 9, it will not be unpleasant at all.. and you´ll see that it even helps you.. giving you an important information about the trajectory you are using...

Please try this setup!!!!!
(FANATEC CSL PS4 Base setup only with brake cell mode)


Example: 2 days ago on BB raceway, with the Supra GT3, I verified that GTS Wheel turning sensitivity: 4 or 5 were very good together with GTS FFB Torque on 10, CSL Sens on 72, CSL FOR on 20, and CSL FEI on 100 (Just for this race and car)


I hope it helps! :)

NOW ... IF YOU DON´T BELIEVE ME, THAT I HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH THIS CONFIGURATION AT ALL... , I MUST SAY :

THAT´S YOUR PROBLEM DUDE! NOT MINE!... ANY MORE!!!

Hello

Tried your set up after various of my own trial and error attempts. Have some ok settings for a couple of cars (oddly AWD gr4 cars), but mostly the steering felt “spongy”. Thanks for taking the time to post your settings.

Brief review:

Mirror Man’s setting are ‘light’, very light if you are used to a heavy feel on the wheel. Generally, heavy is how I liked the wheel to feel.

Did some laps in beetle for weekly B today with Mirror Man’s settings. My thoughts:
1. Had to adjust a few settings to get them more to my taste, especially SEN - down to 45 in the beetle on this track.
2. Mirror Man’s standard setting above does get rid of the rattle. That in itself is a bonus if you live with another person in the house!
3. After my adjustments, the rattle comes back a bit but now it becomes more informative of what the car is doing.
4. And the one critical to me, the car turns in as I want it to and has lost the spongy feel.

Result: down from a 1:36.4 to a 1.35.5 on Yamagiwa II in less than 30 mins. All aids off apart from ABS.

Obviously, a very small sample of size of one track and one car, but i’ll be testing others later.

Target for today: to do a sub 1.35.

D
 
Last edited:
So while the January update in physics is great and the cars are kinda cool I was still itching for some different tracks so I fired up Assetto Corsa. I haven’t really played it a whole lot and didn’t have the wheel set up for it so I found some settings and tweaked them to my liking.

Today I fired up GT Sport to do my daily workout so I could get my ninth old Toyota Supra and forgot to change the wheel from the AC settings. With the new update it is much more rewarding to drive with force higher. I have it on 90 now and in a short test it’s great! Much realer feeling and no clicking! It will spin wildly if you let go of the wheel on the straights but other than that it’s great!
 
So while the January update in physics is great and the cars are kinda cool I was still itching for some different tracks so I fired up Assetto Corsa. I haven’t really played it a whole lot and didn’t have the wheel set up for it so I found some settings and tweaked them to my liking.

Today I fired up GT Sport to do my daily workout so I could get my ninth old Toyota Supra and forgot to change the wheel from the AC settings. With the new update it is much more rewarding to drive with force higher. I have it on 90 now and in a short test it’s great! Much realer feeling and no clicking! It will spin wildly if you let go of the wheel on the straights but other than that it’s great!
Nice. I saw your settings in the other thread. So these are the same settings you use in AC. My question is: what in game settings do you use in the AC game itself?
 
So while the January update in physics is great and the cars are kinda cool I was still itching for some different tracks so I fired up Assetto Corsa. I haven’t really played it a whole lot and didn’t have the wheel set up for it so I found some settings and tweaked them to my liking.

Today I fired up GT Sport to do my daily workout so I could get my ninth old Toyota Supra and forgot to change the wheel from the AC settings. With the new update it is much more rewarding to drive with force higher. I have it on 90 now and in a short test it’s great! Much realer feeling and no clicking! It will spin wildly if you let go of the wheel on the straights but other than that it’s great!

Yeah! For most of the cars we may easily increase the FFB Torque /Force and feel better... should not play with equal values for every car, for some the grip and the needed force to turn is stronger.. and so these values must be adapted...

But I find the values you have on your wheels setting excessive... Force, Torque and FEI... You must love to drive dump trucks, lorries, 18 wheelers ... kind of... :)
 
Nice. I saw your settings in the other thread. So these are the same settings you use in AC. My question is: what in game settings do you use in the AC game itself?

The settings would be the same for AC with a slightly higher FOR. Those settings are:

Which are::

Code:
- Sen: AUT
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: OFF
- DRI: OFF
- FOR: 100
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BRF: Off (or 10)
- FEI: 070

I'm new to AC, but once I put in these settings I found I was really enjoying it and it felt "real" to me. I could feel the weight of the cars, the rumble of understeer, lightness of oversteer. I initially started with the same settings I used for GT Sport, FOR around 50 and found this way too light so I ramped it up. This may evolve as I learn and experience more.

Yeah! For most of the cars we may easily increase the FFB Torque /Force and feel better... should not play with equal values for every car, for some the grip and the needed force to turn is stronger.. and so these values must be adapted...

But I find the values you have on your wheels setting excessive... Force, Torque and FEI... You must love to drive dump trucks, lorries, 18 wheelers ... kind of... :)

For the most part I use the Gr race cars in GT Sport and keep the same setting across them, perhaps that's my novice level of experience. When I do use street cars they are usually older cars that do not have power steering. Realizing this is simulated feedback and "real" is a tenuous concept, but I find a more weighted wheel feels "real". No experience with any real group cars. The angriest things I've driven are a Solo 2 prepped C5 with 500+HP on slicks and a rotax kart. Both, particularly the kart of course, felt heavy on the wheel. I autocrossed a MKIV VW, which had a LOT of understeer so I became very familiar with that shudder through the wheel. Funny enough, the latest up date in GT Sport gave me a sense memory of understeer in my old Jetta.... Anyway, I am happy to learn and adjust, but my thinking is the wheel is heavy for race vehicles no? Why is strong FF coveted in high end wheels? Why is it so strong in direct drive?

My daily driver is a 2016 JK Rubicon, it may look like a dump truck but that vehicle has particularly strong power steering, the Fanatec gives a lot more resistance. :lol:
 
The settings would be the same for AC with a slightly higher FOR. Those settings are:

Which are::

Code:
- Sen: AUT
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: OFF
- DRI: OFF
- FOR: 100
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BRF: Off (or 10)
- FEI: 070

I'm new to AC, but once I put in these settings I found I was really enjoying it and it felt "real" to me. I could feel the weight of the cars, the rumble of understeer, lightness of oversteer. I initially started with the same settings I used for GT Sport, FOR around 50 and found this way too light so I ramped it up. This may evolve as I learn and experience more.



For the most part I use the Gr race cars in GT Sport and keep the same setting across them, perhaps that's my novice level of experience. When I do use street cars they are usually older cars that do not have power steering. Realizing this is simulated feedback and "real" is a tenuous concept, but I find a more weighted wheel feels "real". No experience with any real group cars. The angriest things I've driven are a Solo 2 prepped C5 with 500+HP on slicks and a rotax kart. Both, particularly the kart of course, felt heavy on the wheel. I autocrossed a MKIV VW, which had a LOT of understeer so I became very familiar with that shudder through the wheel. Funny enough, the latest up date in GT Sport gave me a sense memory of understeer in my old Jetta.... Anyway, I am happy to learn and adjust, but my thinking is the wheel is heavy for race vehicles no? Why is strong FF coveted in high end wheels? Why is it so strong in direct drive?

My daily driver is a 2016 JK Rubicon, it may look like a dump truck but that vehicle has particularly strong power steering, the Fanatec gives a lot more resistance. :lol:

This is the Rubicon!
 

Attachments

  • upload_2019-1-22_23-5-17.jpeg
    upload_2019-1-22_23-5-17.jpeg
    10.7 KB · Views: 16
Yup. That’s my daily. Mine’s white and has the Hard Rock package. This year’s dilemma is do I buy a race sim rig or lift the Jeep....:lol:
 

Attachments

  • D367001F-64F0-4F13-8484-8D3D1753D73A.jpeg
    D367001F-64F0-4F13-8484-8D3D1753D73A.jpeg
    149.5 KB · Views: 17
So while the January update in physics is great and the cars are kinda cool I was still itching for some different tracks so I fired up Assetto Corsa. I haven’t really played it a whole lot and didn’t have the wheel set up for it so I found some settings and tweaked them to my liking.

Today I fired up GT Sport to do my daily workout so I could get my ninth old Toyota Supra and forgot to change the wheel from the AC settings. With the new update it is much more rewarding to drive with force higher. I have it on 90 now and in a short test it’s great! Much realer feeling and no clicking! It will spin wildly if you let go of the wheel on the straights but other than that it’s great!

The oscillation has actually been fixed in the beta drivers that Fanatec has released on their forums.

https://www.fanatec.com/forum/discu...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet
 
Interesting. I wonder if they finally fixed the screwed up Xbox button mappings (sorry, haven’t read back through all the posts). I know Fanatec support claimed this was a Microsoft issue and not something they could fix. Doesn’t affect me as I only play on PS4 these days, but that was always an annoyance when I used the CSL Elite on XB1X. PC2, for example, was really frustrating when losing the use of 4 buttons versus the PS4 version. Anyway...I’ll shy away from the beta firmware due to using the McLaren rim primarily....but excited to update once it is public.
 
Fosterions:
So while the January update in physics is great and the cars are kinda cool I was still itching for some different tracks so I fired up Assetto Corsa. I haven’t really played it a whole lot and didn’t have the wheel set up for it so I found some settings and tweaked them to my liking.

Today I fired up GT Sport to do my daily workout so I could get my ninth old Toyota Supra and forgot to change the wheel from the AC settings. With the new update it is much more rewarding to drive with force higher. I have it on 90 now and in a short test it’s great! Much realer feeling and no clicking! It will spin wildly if you let go of the wheel on the straights but other than that it’s great!

Yeah! For most of the cars we may easily increase the FFB Torque /Force and feel better... should not play with equal values for every car, for some the grip and the needed force to turn is stronger.. and so these values must be adapted...

But I find the values you have on your wheels setting excessive... Force, Torque and FEI... You must love to drive dump trucks, lorries, 18 wheelers ... kind of... :)

I couldnt agree more, Mr. Man. There is a reason modern race cars have power steering, there is no reason everyone on the planet should be required to drive a Mack truck. (1 stack Mack with no shack on the back:D:D:D) If all of the rattling is eliminated how do you know when you enter a corner too fast and slide the front tires? That is also something that real race cars do, maybe not with quite as much rattle effect but it gives you an idea of whats going on at least.
 
Fosterions:
So while the January update in physics is great and the cars are kinda cool I was still itching for some different tracks so I fired up Assetto Corsa. I haven’t really played it a whole lot and didn’t have the wheel set up for it so I found some settings and tweaked them to my liking.

Today I fired up GT Sport to do my daily workout so I could get my ninth old Toyota Supra and forgot to change the wheel from the AC settings. With the new update it is much more rewarding to drive with force higher. I have it on 90 now and in a short test it’s great! Much realer feeling and no clicking! It will spin wildly if you let go of the wheel on the straights but other than that it’s great!



I couldnt agree more, Mr. Man. There is a reason modern race cars have power steering, there is no reason everyone on the planet should be required to drive a Mack truck. (1 stack Mack with no shack on the back:D:D:D) If all of the rattling is eliminated how do you know when you enter a corner too fast and slide the front tires? That is also something that real race cars do, maybe not with quite as much rattle effect but it gives you an idea of whats going on at least.

That stutter is there without the clacking, if you really.... clack up it’ll clack, otherwise now it’s an appropriate shuddering like I said above.

In terms of chasing realism I feel the onus is on the game and wheel devs. Let me select factory settings for the vehicle and computer thingies make it happen. For each vehicle. That’s what I want.
 
That stutter is there without the clacking, if you really.... clack up it’ll clack, otherwise now it’s an appropriate shuddering like I said above.

In terms of chasing realism I feel the onus is on the game and wheel devs. Let me select factory settings for the vehicle and computer thingies make it happen. For each vehicle. That’s what I want.

It's just not not something that I think they will ever perfect, at least not at this $$ level. It is also difficult because they are trying to tell you what a picture of a car is doing on your TV instead of feeling something thru your entire body and also seeing it in 3D, its monumental task.
 
Hey guys. I've just ordered the McLaren gt3 wheel for my CSL elite PS4 wheel base which has the latest firmware. Can I put the new rim on and race straight away. Or will I need to download certain firmware for my new rim ?

Thanks in advance
 
Hello everyone Fanatec lovers! Few days ago arrived my Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 version + LC. Im very happy of performance and its massive step forward over T150 PRO and G29. Cant be more happy of my purchase! :) Looking for a proper settings on GTS. Could you please update and share what combos you are using? Like:

Driver version:

SEN:
FF:
SHO:
ABS:
DRI:
FOR:
SPR:
DPR:
BRF:
FEI:

FFB torq:
FFB sens:

Much appreciate!
Sinceraly Domas
 
Go to page 12 or 14
Try Mirror Man's settings
Adjust accordingly...... Enjoy :)

Actually I made some minor changes on it... mainly due to the new Tyre model... I have been testing them this week and will be ready to post my new settings,then! :)
 
Go to page 12 or 14
Try Mirror Man's settings
Adjust accordingly...... Enjoy :)
sorry but what do you mean "go to page 12 or 14"? this thread have only 10 pages?



Actually I made some minor changes on it... mainly due to the new Tyre model... I have been testing them this week and will be ready to post my new settings,then! :)

Im very excited and cant wait to check it out :)
 
The setup is on page 5 actually.. the older one...
thanks for the info. anyway still looking forward for updated settings :)
but what about settings on page 9 posted by you 27 September 2018 ?
EDIT: with those September settings immediatly shaved 2 tenths of race C Mount Panorama. Now my time is 2:01.457 (B/S driver) and there is plenty of room to improve more. Wheel is light and inputs more precise than my heavy default settings before. Thanks. Worth to try your May settings? Couse its quite old from now. And Im curious of your updated settings :D
 
Last edited:
I currently use a Thrustmaster wheel but I wanted to ask if anyone here has pre-ordered or already has the Fanatec DD1 (Direct Drive) wheel which is/will be compatible with the PS4 and GT Sport.

If someone here plans on using the DD1 with GT Sport, will you be willing to post up your impressions?

I am contemplating getting the DD1 since I also race other sims on PC but having it work well with GT Sport would be a nice added bonus.

Are you Fanatec guys happy with how the wheel works on the PS4 and with GT Sport specifically?
 
thanks for the info. anyway still looking forward for updated settings :)
but what about settings on page 9 posted by you 27 September 2018 ?
EDIT: with those September settings immediatly shaved 2 tenths of race C Mount Panorama. Now my time is 2:01.457 (B/S driver) and there is plenty of room to improve more. Wheel is light and inputs more precise than my heavy default settings before. Thanks. Worth to try your May settings? Couse its quite old from now. And Im curious of your updated settings :D

It’s really nice when you get the settings right for a car/track combo.
 
Back