CSL update - blue mode

  • Thread starter oldphart
  • 429 comments
  • 58,199 views
Sure, simple to adjust and I did some tweaking to where I like the weight of the wheel and the feedback a bit better though I’m still slug slow.

You have no way of knowing whether I’m just a whiner, I am a whiner, but maybe not just, and I, currently, have no way of knowing what it *should* feel like.

In the meantime I’ve been watching @kie25’s most recent Nurburgring video. I’m almost six seconds off which is great for the ego. I also noticed the amount of steering input I’m doing and what he’s doing is very different. I have to take a very honest look at my lines first, but also consider I’m not getting the steering input I should be.

I must 1st thank you for the excellent video you shared! Very good indeed!
I admit that my "line" is the same but my skill ...too far away from his...

My best time achieved with a Merc sls Amg is on 2.00. Not yet tested the new setup for the wheel...
 
So I did the manual calibration for min. point on my LC brake through the PC driver. It seemed to work when I transitioned back to PS4. However, it seems to have reset now back to the default position - any idea what would have changed it?
 
I must 1st thank you for the excellent video you shared! Very good indeed!
I admit that my "line" is the same but my skill ...too far away from his...

My best time achieved with a Merc sls Amg is on 2.00. Not yet tested the new setup for the wheel...

Yeah, @kie25’s stuff is great. He and @Tidgney are producing great content. As are others, but those two guys are the ones I’ve latched onto.

I’ve done some tweaking to my settings (away from the wheel, I’ll post em later) and happy-ish with the feel and managed a 1:59.7 at the Nurburgring GP - BOP on, ABS default, TC 0. I know I’m over driving/too aggressive, but I still can’t shake the feeling I’m not getting the turn in that others can because of my wheel.
 
[QUOTE="Fosterions, post: but I still can’t shake the feeling I’m not getting the turn in that others can because of my wheel.[/QUOTE]

I share your pain. I'm going through the same thing myself.

Keith.
 
@Knukel damn. That doesn’t inspire me with confidence regarding my wheel. Was bought used. Looked well cared for but who knows right? Impossible to tell if someone cranked on it super hard or not.

Code:
GT Sport February 3rd
- Controller Steering Sensitivity: 7
- Force Feedback MaxTorque: 7
- Force Feedback Sensitivity: 10

Fanatec Wheel Config:
- Sen: AUT
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: 30
- DRI: -05
- FOR: 50
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 80
- FEI: 50

Settings that I don’t notice much change when adjusted: ABS( no load cell ), DRI and DPR.

These are my settings as of today where I have a firm enough feel to be satisfying. I’d like firmer, but that results in more dramatic clipping (perceived as that clacking sound) and I’m not any faster with it firmer. The only place I have detected slight clipping is if I try and change direction too quickly at the A1 Ring under the Bull statue (left turn heading to the downhill) and into Spoon at Suzuka. But it’s only when I eff up. If I go in properly there’s no issue. Edit: there’s also no crazy wheel oscillating on the straights if you let go on the straights.

Best time at Nurburgring GP in the group 3 911 is 1:59.721 with BOP on, TC 0, RH tires, ABS default and bias -2. And there’s definitely time to be found in that lap without blaming the wheel. That said, I’d still love more turn in.
 
Last edited:
@Knukel damn. That doesn’t inspire me with confidence regarding my wheel. Was bought used. Looked well cared for but who knows right? Impossible to tell if someone cranked on it super hard or not.

Code:
GT Sport February 3rd
- Controller Steering Sensitivity: 7
- Force Feedback MaxTorque: 7
- Force Feedback Sensitivity: 10

Fanatec Wheel Config:
- Sen: AUT
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: 30
- DRI: -05
- FOR: 50
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 80
- FEI: 50



Settings that I don’t notice much change when adjusted: ABS( no load cell ), DRI and DPR.

These are my settings as of today where I have a firm enough feel to be satisfying. I’d like firmer, but that results in more dramatic clipping (perceived as that clacking sound) and I’m not any faster with it firmer. The only place I have detected slight clipping is if I try and change direction too quickly at the A1 Ring under the Bull statue (left turn heading to the downhill) and into Spoon at Suzuka. But it’s only when I eff up. If I go in properly there’s no issue. Edit: there’s also no crazy wheel oscillating on the straights if you let go on the straights.

Best time at Nurburgring GP in the group 3 911 is 1:59.721 with BOP on, TC 0, RH tires, ABS default and bias -2. And there’s definitely time to be found in that lap without blaming the wheel. That said, I’d still love more turn in.

Yep! You´ve adapted (- Force Feedback MaxTorque: 7) to your personal taste (strong Torque)... Sugestion... Exactly as Bedi said... Drop down the FEI value ...

I think if you just lover FEI you can get rid of clipping.

That is also my sugestion! :)
 
I'm just ready to give up. I am constantly 5-7 secs off of the leaders times and can find no way to pick up any speed. I'm just guessing Fanatec needs to really change their firmware to make it more responsive.
Now I am not saying that I'm the best driver, but 5-7 secs is a lot to lose each lap, especially on tracks/races where tire wear is not a factor.

Keith.
 
I think if you just lover FEI you can get rid of clipping.

Yep! You´ve adapted (- Force Feedback MaxTorque: 7) to your personal taste (strong Torque)... Sugestion... Exactly as Bedi said... Drop down the FEI value ...



That is also my sugestion! :)

What they both said. Lower the FEI and the rattle goes away. Try 20 instead.

Yeah, I know. Unfortunately if I lower FEI anymore all feedback from curbs and road textures is gone. Gone gone. Like that girl, Gone Girl(I haven't seen this and don't know what it's about). I like that feedback, it contributes to immersion a lot and that's important to me. At this settings the clipping/clacking is mild and it's a good reminder that I've overcooked the corner entry.

I'm just ready to give up. I am constantly 5-7 secs off of the leaders times and can find no way to pick up any speed. I'm just guessing Fanatec needs to really change their firmware to make it more responsive.
Now I am not saying that I'm the best driver, but 5-7 secs is a lot to lose each lap, especially on tracks/races where tire wear is not a factor.

Keith.

I know exactly how you feel man, I don't know if you've looked at the link I shared above, I have a thread where I am trying to improve from a beginner to novice and or understand why I'm not as good as I think I should be! :lol: I am happy to take ownership of my skill, or lack thereof, but I felt like I had reached a ceiling and that could be because of something to do with the wheel. A big shout out to you @Keith2324, that PM about fiddling with the sensitivity and Aut setting may be game changing. I've only done a bit of testing so far, but I do feel a difference. I am more precise and more consistent because I am finally getting turn in as I expect it. It's early going so I'm still getting used to it and haven't managed to run a faster time because of this yet, but I think it's only a matter of time that I'll find time to post a faster time. Time! When I have sorted it out for myself I will post the changes made and settings I landed on in case it helps anyone else. Again, big thank you to @Keith2324! Your tip has brought me back from the desire to give up! :cheers: (Until I discover I'm still slow after this :rolleyes:)

May I suggest an experiment for us CSL users? It may be meaningless because of the range of skill, but on the off chance it's informative to a few of us it may be worthwhile. Why don't we do a time comparison? Comparison, not competition. Pick a car, track, and game settings to keep the same and do some lap times. We could add videos for comparison and see what's going on. I don't care what we use, but given that this week's Gr 3 race is the Nurburgring GP track and we have a reference lap from a top tier driver with a track guide and obscene target time using the R8(1:55.208). Even though he's not using a Fanatec wheel, why not start there? The fact that I've already started working on this one has nothing to do with me picking it :cool:. I'm happy to try something else if you guys like.

My current best in the 911 RSR is 1:59.7XX at the Nurburgring GP morning cloudy time - BOP on, ABS default, TC 0, brake bias was -1 or -2 I think. No other changes except for the livery. :) That's almost five seconds off of what is not even the top time. A lifetime in racing. This was before the Sen tweak I mentioned in this post, otherwise my settings would be what's posted above so hopefully I can find some more time with that change.
 
I'm game for the Comparison check. I think we should start another thread (maybe) in the Sim Racing Hardware section. Hopefully others will get on-board. It should be very educational.

Keith.
 
I am going to get a limited amount of time
On a friends csl elite in gts.
I’m coming from t300 and I can run sub .58 on Nurb GP with that in gr3 bop rh.
I don’t use r8 though or 911 I’m much slower in those vs amg or BMW or Lexus.
When I get a chance to test his setup I will see about ffb.
I run 3 10 and it seems good on t300.
I’ll tell if somethings way different right away on csl.
 
A sign I’m faster after editing Sen! Although I’ve made no better progress on the Nurburgring GP circuit I thought I’d take a break and try another challenge I haven’t in a while - gold on the full Nordschleife. It’s my last Circuit Experience gold to complete. My previous best was 7:00.xx. Today after a couple failed attempts that bounced off the barriers I managed a 6:58.4. :banghead: :lol: The worst part? It was a solid gold until I got too excited by that and bounced it off the barrier twice in the last corner. 🤬

Silver lining in this is I haven’t tried that in a while and I still posted a decent time (for me) that was faster than previous efforts.
 
Last edited:
Are you experiencing similiar noise when driving over rumble strips or when off-roading? Not just in GT Sport, but in any game with any setup:

Or:


That’s the clack! Turn your FEI down and it will go away. Turn it down too much and so will the feedback over curbs and stuff.
 
It looks like.. that I m a lucky guy!!! The wheel is fine.. and i dont have to turn FEI high to get FFB... If you take off all the variable that introduce damping of FFB forces (and it is nt just the DUMP value... ) and if you dont max both FFBTorque and FOR... (iinducing the wheel in clipping oviously..) then you get the difference from real Feedback and not just the Weight of the Wheels (Dump factor majory) nor the Spring or dumping effects from the usage of the DRI variable.... And I beleive that reducing DUMP from 80 (the value I´m using) will bring more FF feeling just by elevating a little bit the FEI Value...

It´s almost like in AC where we almost set every variable of the wheel to zero... and even so we still get a lot of feedback from curbs and the tarmac.. .

By the way my wheel setting on AC are these:

Sen 090
FF 100
Sho OFF
ABS 030
DRI -5
For 030
SPr OFF
Dpr OFF
BRF 015
FEI 010
With:
In Game:
Gain (Force orientation) : 050
Kerb Effects : 000
Slip Effects : 010
Advanced Slip Effects : OFF

(see all those settings OFF ??)
 
I used to have somewhat similiar except my in-game strength was only 35%, but with FOR 100 / Drift at 0 & FEI 50 making the steering quite light, but super informative to varying road details like cobblestone sections etc. Also very strong at times, had to held with two hands when driving Eau Rouge, Laguna Seca's corckscrew or Karusell.
- Now i have increased the in-game high as 60%, but yet i can't feel curbs properly, so what exactly is there left to be felt other than constant resistance?

@Fosterions Is your wheel making short clanks or continuous clanking similiar to mine? Do you feel it in the steering?


Same problem I talked about for GTS (we are talking about AC FFb settings. arent we??)

With both strong values for In Game Gain and Wheel Force... you induce Clipping and so... you only feel the part of FFB regarding.. weight of car and the dragging of the wheels on the tarmac... (constant resistance...) when you should get the feed back from bumps and curbs... that is lost... cause that aditional output of FFB effects is above the limit of the FFB output of the wheel (that is what Clipping consists of..)

If by any chance you still lhaven´t read this: https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/like-your-ffb-strong-think-again.30763/ then do it please... and you wil surelly understand what I m saying...
 
Last edited:
@Fosterions Is your wheel making short clanks or continuous clanking similiar to mine? Do you feel it in the steering?

Yes. That is the clack I get though I do not get it over over curbs like that and it is not as strong as shown in your video. It's one clack and lighter. IF I turn up FEI I get it a lot more like in your video though I can't say I've ever noticed it over curbs.... With my current FEI settings I get it if I try and swing into turn 4 at the A1 Ring, Rauch, with too much of an arc instead of driving directly toward the apex. I guess the camber of the road with the unsettled shift in weight of the car is causing it. Same thing into Spoon, if I take too wide of an arc into 13 and 14 at Suzuka I get a clack. Maybe the same reason?

That said, since I've dialed SEN a little better for me I can't recall a single clack. Maybe because I've been more precise and controlled?
 
Yes exactly, but my two earlier wheels didn't act like that... Not at all! Both were very quiet even with FEI above 60 and they provided more direct FFB with very low FEI. (Not once have i had to fight this wheel yet, my older wheels could have broken my wrists when driving over a box kerb or when crashing; while this one barely react to any stronger feedback). The main point is that the rumble stripe feeling is nearly unexistent with FEI 50, it's just producing noise.
...I feel like the FFB detail is brought back to the base - hence the 'clank' or the feeling of loose belt or something -> Note AC videos ending where i drive off-track; instead of stronger FFB, there's just loud 'snap/pop'.
You say that over the curbs the wheel is making only noise and you cant feel almost nothing in the force feedback, what about the torque of the wheel, is it as strong as with your previous two wheels?
 
Hi All, I've just upgraded from a G29 to a Fanatec CSL Elite setup (Elite PS4 Base, Elite LC Pedals and the Clubsport Formula Rim). All I can say is the difference is night and day! The feedback fidelity on the Fanatec is amazing. @Mirror_man I've started with your settings as a baseline and I have got to say thank-you for your time and research and testing, straight out of the box your settings are amazing and suit my style of driving and replicate the type of feedback I would expect from a setup such as this. The oversteer and understeer feedback is sensational and is already improving my lap times vs DS4 (in comparison I was always slower on the G29 vs DS4). I do have one question although which I'm struggling with which is the DRI setting. I've seen the faq on the Fanatec "CSW V2.5 and CSL Elite Base PS4 (new) drift mode explained in detail" and the DRI setting I think is one of the key settings I would want to mess with for my driving style, the issue I'm trying to solve is being able to counter steer quickly enough to catch a slide (practically impossible on the G29). I have DRI set to OFF and it's pretty good, I have a good chance of catching a slide. That said, here is the crux of my issue I can only select OFF or +1 to +5. There are no negative settings??? I'm running driver 311 (Base firmware 476 and have NOT updated the Motor firmware which is 18). What Driver / Firmwares are you all running to get the "new" DRI modes as per the Fanatec faq (would be nice if the faq had a date or even a reference to from what firmware the settings are effective....??...). The only other thing I can think of is maybe the DRI setting is rim specific? i.e. with the clubsport formula you don't get the additional settings? Any advise you all could give me would be greatly appreciated. On a side note, the reason I have not updated the motor firmware (18) is Driver 311 tells me that it's newer than the 311 motor firmware which seems weird. Any advise anyone could offer would be great! Happy to try out one of the beta drivers (if that's what your running)... I see their up to 326 on the forum page... Cheers!
 
Back