CSL update - blue mode

  • Thread starter oldphart
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So first impressions I can say are well enough done. Rev lights on, clutch sensitivity is fixed (previously acted like a button), understeer rumble is still there but it is more refined. I mean, before this update, the rumble effect had the ability to lock the wheel instantly, with heavy forces, in some direction so it was very difficult to make little adjustments under this effect. Now it seems that you can control your car fine under this effect. I don't like it, of course. I would prefer to get rid of it but definitely it's an improvement.

@RGdeuce No my wheel it's not acting any different.
 
So first impressions I can say are well enough done. Rev lights on, clutch sensitivity is fixed (previously acted like a button), understeer rumble is still there but it is more refined. I mean, before this update, the rumble effect had the ability to lock the wheel instantly, with heavy forces, in some direction so it was very difficult to make little adjustments under this effect. Now it seems that you can control your car fine under this effect. I don't like it, of course. I would prefer to get rid of it but definitely it's an improvement.

@RGdeuce No my wheel it's not acting any different.


The clutch issue.. i think has nothing to do with Fanatec (isn´t it global?? like for every other brands??) Regarding the rumble/rattle... I personally like it a lot!!!!... specially now.. tamed... it´s an important indicator that warns you, when to stop turning or when you may apply the full throttle without making the car loose control...
 
I'm totally lost now. First it was low in-game forces... Then someone suggested that maxed in-game forces hides the rattle effect so i tried your low FOR setup which worked just fine and it was obvious choice... Until Super_GT pointed out it's probably just clipping. After that you decreased the in-game forces, but increased FOR via the tuning menu... (Back in step one)

That is why i prefer a simpler setup. But I recommend to just start with the default settings. I assume that is the Fanatec sdk that PD used to implement the FFB the developers intended. Any other settings in the tuning menu are personal preference. I personally prefer that the game developer designs the FFB for each individual wheel so users can experience what the developers intend.
 
I'm totally lost now. First it was low in-game forces... Then someone suggested that maxed in-game forces hides the rattle effect so i tried your low FOR setup which worked just fine and it was obvious choice... Until Super_GT pointed out it's probably just clipping. After that you decreased the in-game forces, but increased FOR via the tuning menu... (Back in step one)

lol... uncorrect settings aren´t just a lot for the FFB force settings (game and wheel)...

Like Depeche Mode once wrote... "everything counts.... on large ammounts" ...

It depends on Spring value, Fei Value, and of course also the For value, besides the FFB Ingame Torque... set Spr to 0 (or 10) Fei to maximum 50, drop For to 3 or 4, and FFB torque to 1... and now you still will feel the shaking but now it´s the "right" shaking... the one that warns you and does nt make you loose control of the car..
 
lol... uncorrect settings aren´t just a lot for the FFB force settings (game and wheel)...

Like Depeche Mode once wrote... "everything counts.... on large ammounts" ...

It depends on Spring value, Fei Value, and of course also the For value, besides the FFB Ingame Torque... set Spr to 0 (or 10) Fei to maximum 50, drop For to 3 or 4, and FFB torque to 1... and now you still will feel the shaking but now it´s the "right" shaking... the one that warns you and does nt make you loose control of the car..
Ah in-game strenght 1 & also low FOR values, don't think i've tried those at least not lately, interested to see is there any FFB at all, Haha!

Spring or damper hardly has any effect on the rattle effect... FEI 0 smoothens it well, but the effect strength is still far above other forces... God how much time i've spent trying to dial off the rattle, and higher in-game values made it so much better, so i'm very pessimistic to try these again.

P.S.
I think you make the wheel tune panel adjustments sound more complicated than they actually are, like you need to find the perfect balance.
 
Ah in-game strenght 1 & also low FOR values, don't think i've tried those at least not lately, interested to see is there any FFB at all, Haha!

Spring or damper hardly has any effect on the rattle effect... FEI 0 smoothens it well, but the effect strength is still far above other forces... God how much time i've spent trying to dial off the rattle, and higher in-game values made it so much better, so i'm very pessimistic to try these again.

P.S.
I think you make the wheel tune panel adjustments sound more complicated than they actually are, like you need to find the perfect balance.


there´s always a more perfect balance.. on wheel. life and things in general. you just have to look for it... and if we don´t try.. dont risk to look for it.. we will always remain... unbalanced... Fei on 0 is crap... tottaly... with current update I advise to raise it until 50.. at least... but with the corrections I gave... it´s simply to try. .just choose another profile on the wheel to try some new stuff.. (you ve got 5 to use so... and may alwyas get back to yours... so safe and secure... )
 
@Mirror_man Sorry, but lower in-game values worked exactly like back then... With 1 or 2 in-game strength there's not enough forces & you can't drive with it, it's basically numb... So i had to increase FOR high as 60-80 which again has the biggest impact on the rattle effect, hence maxed in-game values.
 
@Mirror_man Sorry, but lower in-game values worked exactly like back then... With 1 or 2 in-game strength there's not enough forces & you can't drive with it, it's basically numb... So i had to increase FOR high as 60-80 which again has the biggest impact on the rattle effect, hence maxed in-game values.

Basicacly?? Numb??? Hum.. so you must be he Shawzernegher of GTS wheel truning.. i guess... As I said.. an18 wheeler like driver.... can only be.. .!!!!

if you set FFB torque to 2/3 and FOr to 40/60 you will get the closest to real driving force on the wheel for a lot of cars.. (for some you may need a bit more.. . but not much...) .. the intention is driving. and not muscle build up, dude!!
 
I finally got it, after last update :)


For those of you that like to be able to turn and react fast on track, and specially to be able to listen/feel what your wheel is trying to say to you about the track, your driving and the way the car is behaving on track (not surely for those who want to feel like they are driving something real big and heavy.... like an eighteen wheeler, or/and fight a continuous battle against the unspoken will of their wheel), here are my actual best settings for a Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 wheel with v3 Sport pedals:



On game setup:

Control Sensiv.: 7

FFB Torque: 4 to 5

FFB Sensivity: 10



Wheel Settings:

SENS: AUT (or better to set it according to car type)

FF: 100

SHO: 100

ABS: 40

DRI: -5 (to 0)

FOR: 030 (to 50)

SPR: OFF or 10

DPR: 120 (to 100)

BRF: 020

FEI: 050 (variable from 050 to 060)


Try (if you dare) at your own risk!!!
 
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I finally got it, after last update :)


For those of you that like to be able to turn and react fast on track, and specially to be able to listen/feel what your wheel is trying to say to you about the track, your driving and the way the car is behaving on track (not surely for those who want to feel like they are driving something real big and heavy.... like an eighteen wheeler, or/and fight a continuous battle against the unspoken will of their wheel), here are my actual best settings for a Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 wheel with v3 Sport pedals:



On game setup:

Control Sensiv.: 7

FFB Torque: 4

FFB Sensivity: 10



Wheel Settings:

SENS: AUT (or better to set it according to car type)

FF: 100

SHO: 100

ABS: 40

DRI: -5 (to 0)

FOR: 030 (to 50)

SPR: OFF or 10

DPR: 120 (to 100)

BRF: 020

FEI: 050 (variable from 050 to 060)


Try (if you dare) at your own risk!!!

Nice settings ;) THXS

Personal i cranked up FOR to 100 because I like stronger forces.

About the rattle I think it’s more manageable after last update . But it is still there unfortunately :( and brakes for me the immersion everytime it kicks in.

I still have hope that in the future there will be an option to turn it completely off. For me the rattle is complete pointless and I have no idea why they put it in the game anyway.
 
I finally got it, after last update :)


For those of you that like to be able to turn and react fast on track, and specially to be able to listen/feel what your wheel is trying to say to you about the track, your driving and the way the car is behaving on track (not surely for those who want to feel like they are driving something real big and heavy.... like an eighteen wheeler, or/and fight a continuous battle against the unspoken will of their wheel), here are my actual best settings for a Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 wheel with v3 Sport pedals:



On game setup:

Control Sensiv.: 7

FFB Torque: 4

FFB Sensivity: 10



Wheel Settings:

SENS: AUT (or better to set it according to car type)

FF: 100

SHO: 100

ABS: 40

DRI: -5 (to 0)

FOR: 030 (to 50)

SPR: OFF or 10

DPR: 120 (to 100)

BRF: 020

FEI: 050 (variable from 050 to 060)


Try (if you dare) at your own risk!!!


These settings are great. Thanks for sharing.

Keith.
 
Nice settings ;) THXS

Personal i cranked up FOR to 100 because I like stronger forces.

About the rattle I think it’s more manageable after last update . But it is still there unfortunately :( and brakes for me the immersion everytime it kicks in.

I still have hope that in the future there will be an option to turn it completely off. For me the rattle is complete pointless and I have no idea why they put it in the game anyway.

If you like the wheel to feel strong in your hands.. you get strong ratlle... you like it... you ..get it... strongly... drop ffb torque and for... and rattle will dimminish too...
 
I finally got it, after last update :)


For those of you that like to be able to turn and react fast on track, and specially to be able to listen/feel what your wheel is trying to say to you about the track, your driving and the way the car is behaving on track (not surely for those who want to feel like they are driving something real big and heavy.... like an eighteen wheeler, or/and fight a continuous battle against the unspoken will of their wheel), here are my actual best settings for a Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 wheel with v3 Sport pedals:



On game setup:

Control Sensiv.: 7

FFB Torque: 4 to 5

FFB Sensivity: 10



Wheel Settings:

SENS: AUT (or better to set it according to car type)

FF: 100

SHO: 100

ABS: 40

DRI: -5 (to 0)

FOR: 030 (to 50)

SPR: OFF or 10

DPR: 120 (to 100)

BRF: 020

FEI: 050 (variable from 050 to 060)


Try (if you dare) at your own risk!!!
I think these are good settings. Mine are very similar (apart from BRF). But i'm pretty sure that the control sensitivity doesn't have any effect on the wheel :)
 
I think these are good settings. Mine are very similar (apart from BRF). But i'm pretty sure that the control sensitivity doesn't have any effect on the wheel :)


Honestly I´m not so sure.. even with everybody else saying it does´nt... Placebo effect or not... I find it does...
 
Yea it's me again talking about the understeer rattle... Did little testing: Tried the M3 Gt2 on RH at Fuji and it's odd that i could turn the wheel up to 180° in the long right corner before i get the 'short burst like rattle'. I get it now, why many say you need to drive like an idiot to get the rattle, BUT there's definitely something wrong either in the effect or tyre physics, if that's the point where you start to understeer!

Abarth 500 on CS felt good at Brands Indy easy fun car, enjoyed. But, the second FF, Honda Civic on same tyres at Tsukuba not so much, the constant 'buzzing' and mild knocking in the corner after the Dunlop sign -> Slow in, 50% throttle and smooth steering. No issues in the last corner.

Viper SRT/10 gave short burst everytime when the rear tyres lost traction in the beginning of drifting which made it nearly impossible. Locked to a position.

- Edit: Just to clarify the M3: I kept turning rather slowly finding the spot and it was constant lap after lap... So i didn't just crank the steering.
- Add: To be honest the M3 didn't even feel like understeering with such over exaggerated inputs... In GT6 such driving style would push the car straight to back wall with +200m long rubber marks!<-But that's another case, irrelevant to understeer rattle.
 
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Yea it's me again... Did little testing: Tried the M3 Gt2 on RH at Fuji and it's odd that i could turn the wheel up to 180° in the long right corner before i get the 'short burst like rattle'. I get it now, why many say you need to drive like an idiot to get the rattle, BUT there's definitely something wrong either in the effect or tyre physics, if that's the point you start to understeer!

Abarth 500 on CS felt good at Brands Indy easy fun car, enjoyed. But, the second FF, Honda Civic on same tyres at Tsukuba not so much, the constant 'buzzing' and mild knocking in the corner after the Dunlop sign -> Slow in, 50% throttle and smooth steering. No issues in the last corner.

Viper SRT/10 gave short burst everytime when the rear tyres lost traction in the beginning of drifting which made it nearly impossible. Locked to a position.

Edit: Just to clarify the M3: I kept turning rather slowly finding the spot and it was constant lap after lap... So i didn't just crank the steering.



The tire model now is a bit better (probably a big bit) but even so... still unreal... and you get that sort of feeling quite often with other cars and tracks... still feels like a mix of plastic and rubber... (sometimes more plastic.. and some times.. more rubber... ) lol..
 
Moved from another thread:

Disagree. There are many different driving styles in GT. One enjoys driving on RSS tyres and the other one on comfort tyres. You simply can't be fast without experiencing the rattle effect on low grip tyres, you can't overdrive the car in GTS like you should to be competitive, so you'll fall behind. Quite often it starts shaking with just a little too much throttle at corner exit: (GTS tyre grip physics, especially in FF cars).

Not to mention that if i 'purposely' turn the wheel to max, i rarely get the rattle.
I like to keep forces quite low, and i hate how unbalanced the effect is, it literally locks to a position or throw the car to opposite direction with irritating loud noise. Other example is drifting: Turn in - Loose grip - Dead rattle zone - Manually need to countersteer. (Again it doesn't occur 100% time, which is odd)

I hope it's (again?) slightly better now, but it could well be placebo aswell. I don't believe they have focused only on the rattle effect, toned it down on purpose: I believe it has only changed in the side of other fixes, like the tyre grip update's added grip made it better. (If they had really focused on it, it would be just subtle background feedback)

LOL, just realized when reading back your selection of what I wrote to quote and love the Bold Lettering of "Bad Drivers Like Me" I feel like a politician that has been misquoted. Don't forget to put context on what I wrote, especially since it was in a completely different thread, before you highlight what could be considered a unwarranted character attack.

This is what I wrote, and notice no highlights since I was posting in a joking manner.

Actually they are talking about when turning your wheel to far in corner the csl would shake pretty bad to simulate tire skid but honestly the ones suffering from it are bad drivers like my self . To test you have to take a corner normally but at apex keep turning the wheel as far as you can because that’s what noobs like me do to correct understeer lol
 
Honestly I´m not so sure.. even with everybody else saying it does´nt... Placebo effect or not... I find it does...

I've spent a LOT of time to play with this parameter and believe me it does absolutely nothing for wheel users.

And if you think about it, if this parameter was really doing something, its purpose would be to add / remove input lag ! Who would add input lag ?
 
Honestly I´m not so sure.. even with everybody else saying it does´nt... Placebo effect or not... I find it does...

Controller Sensitivity 100 percent does nothing for a wheelbase. Controller Sensitivity effects how quickly the analog sticks turn the steering wheel.

maxresdefault.jpg


"Adjust the steering speed and response speed of the front tires to input from the wireless controller."

I have been playing GT since the very first demo was released and this setting has always been the same, it only effects DualShock controllers.
 
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