DiRT Rally 2.0 General Discussion

  • Thread starter PJTierney
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What's happened with FFB in this game makes for another reason for the next time to take anything these paid sponsored youtuber say with a pinch of salt.

<<The test version I was given had perfeclty working FFB blah blah at least on my wheel blah blah>> lol yah oookay bro ok

Feels good to me. Pretty reminiscent of a real car instead of it shaking around in my hands. This could be the feeling they were going for.
 
What's happened with FFB in this game makes for another reason for the next time to take anything these paid sponsored youtuber say with a pinch of salt.

<<The test version I was given had perfeclty working FFB blah blah at least on my wheel blah blah>> lol yah oookay bro ok

My t300 on PS4 works perfectly i didn't even opened the wheel option tab neither calibrated It. I physically, on the wheel (left + mode 2 times), set rotation to 540 and it is more than ok, miles better than dirt1.

The only issue is that every event resets the rotation so i have to repeat the process. With standard 1080 yotally unplayable with the wheel being so hard to steer.

I hope they won't patch it, first time i have something good out of the box with Codemaster.
 
My t300 on PS4 works perfectly i didn't even opened the wheel option tab neither calibrated It. I physically, on the wheel (left + mode 2 times), set rotation to 540 and it is more than ok, miles better than dirt1.

The only issue is that every event resets the rotation so i have to repeat the process. With standard 1080 yotally unplayable with the wheel being so hard to steer.

I hope they won't patch it, first time i have something good out of the box with Codemaster.

@paulpg87 , if you need to set it for each event to 540 via the wheel itself, you might consider using the steering saturation to 50% (50% of 1080 = 540). That way you don't need to set it every time on the wheel itself.


Looking forward to the Monte Carlo stages next week!!
 
@paulpg87 , if you need to set it for each event to 540 via the wheel itself, you might consider using the steering saturation to 50% (50% of 1080 = 540). That way you don't need to set it every time on the wheel itself.


Looking forward to the Monte Carlo stages next week!!

Thanks you for the advice but i have read somewhere, maybe here on gtp, that accessing the wheel options spoils the wheel support and you have to delete the game files for a proper reset. So i was scared of doing as you propose :)

Yes can't wait for monte, actually can't wait gor all dirt1 rallies to be back.

I saw yesterday the wrc8 streaming, quality wise seems a step behind Codemaster but you can notice the importance of having 14 different rallies .
 
Thanks you for the advice but i have read somewhere, maybe here on gtp, that accessing the wheel options spoils the wheel support and you have to delete the game files for a proper reset. So i was scared of doing as you propose :)

If you are on ps4, you can backup your DR2.0 files individually to a usb drive.

Plus change 1 setting at a time, then you can always go back.

I use 60 to get 540 degrees on my G25. Works really well. Wheel movement is now fully synced onscreen with physical wheel.
 
The only issue is that every event resets the rotation so i have to repeat the process. With standard 1080 yotally unplayable with the wheel being so hard to steer.

I hope they won't patch it, first time i have something good out of the box with Codemaster.
I think 1080º is not supported on the ps4. Anyway, the calibration tool+ soft lock is there for a reason. Just set your wheel to 900º (in case what I say about 1080º is true), do the calibration process; set soft lock on, and then the game is supposed to set your wheel rotation for each car, giving a meaning top the soft lock. Point is that the virtual wheel rotation won't always match visualy in this game like it does in others such as assetto and project cars, but your wheel will still be set accordingly to each cars real degrees of rotation If you do what I say.

Set your t300 to 900º (just in case 1080º doesn't work with ps4, I read about this long time ago when I purchased the same wheel, maybe it's been dealt with already after all this time); calibrate, and then the soft lock will do all the work for ya without you having to change rotation on the fly and then calibrating again, or changing steering saturation and stuff.

If you are on PC then set your t300 to 1080º straight away and calibrate. I think the Lancia Fulvia uses full 1080º if memory serves me wheel from that time I used to watch these cars on TV; maybe 1152º I don't remember, but if 1080º then you will go full realism with this wheel on this car. If It car had less degrees of rotation líke the others, then the soft lock will be there for you.

Anyway, FFB has nothing to do with calibration or degrees of rotation, and ffb in this game at least on my t300 gte and on the steam version ain't good at all.
 
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Point is that the virtual wheel rotation won't always match visualy in this game like it does in others such as assetto and project cars, but your wheel will still be set accordingly to each cars real degrees of rotation If you do what I say.

My experience is quite different. If the wheel rotation does not match the thing on screen, than the feeling is off (too fast or too slow).

AC an PC2 do this perfectly as did DR1. In DR2.0 things are different. Not bad, just different. And it takes a while for everyone to figure out the best way of doing things.

Oh and I switch soft lock to OFF, and with that if I enter the boundaries of 540 degrees, there is still a soft lock (encreased resistance in the wheel).
 
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My experience is quite different. If the wheel rotation does not match the thing on screen, than the feeling is off (too fast or too slow).

AC an PC2 do this perfectly as did DR1. In DR2.0 things are different. Not bad, just different. And it takes a while for everyone to figure out the best way of doing things.

Oh and I switch soft lock to OFF, and with that if I enter the boundaries of 540 degrees, there is still a soft lock (encreased resistance in the wheel).

It's merely the steering wheel rotation not the actual steering of the car, so if it feels off it's the visual steering wheel that ***** with your head.

The steering wheen animation is only 1:1 up to 540, sadly.
 
It's merely the steering wheel rotation not the actual steering of the car, so if it feels off it's the visual steering wheel that ***** with your head.

The steering wheen animation is only 1:1 up to 540, sadly.

I guess it does messes up my head. Nevertheless, I feel the 540 feels pretty good for all cars, even though historically incorrect.
 
I think part of the issue with the FFB is I reckon that's how it was by design. The wording of "people want it to feel more like DR1" implies this wasn't a bug.

I don't know how a real rally car feels but with 3 rally consultants on board and this is the FFB we get then perhaps it's a fuss about nothing? Who knows.


Haven’t got to stage rally yet but as a three time THSCC rallyX champion (06 WRX swapped 95 Impreza L in profile pic) I can say I know what they were going for even though I sometimes wish it was a little heavier.

However, when you’re in the grove and setting a good pace the FFB reminds me of all the good driving sensations you feel when pushing the limits off tarmac. How you can let the wheel slide through your hands, the way it feels when you throw your car into a corner sideways, even surface transitions, and The response you get when testing front traction before diving into a turn. Does it replicate the real thing exactly, no but that would be impossible anyways.

When I get in the zone and drive the car how t should be driven the FFB sometimes brings a smile to my face and I say damn, that brings me back to the real thing. Another reason I love this game, I’m sitting this season out with a blown engine. It’s going to be a little while before I can rebuild it since I’m getting married next month but this game is the best I’ve got for now and I’m more than happy with it and the FFB!!!!!



Figured I'd add that when you're driving 70-75mph on dirt or gravel (which is as fast as I've been on a rally course) you don't feel every little rock or bump, especially with a rally specific suspension which has more travel and designed to soak up all the little stuff. Going that fast flying sideways past trees doesn't give you time to think about all the little bumps and terrain so you really don't even notice it. If you consciously think about how to react its too late, you almost have to drive at a subconscious level and train your muscle memory to automatically react to a situation before you have time to process it. That is what the game is trying to recreate. I can imagine it being difficult to get it if you haven't felt it in real life but the forces that come through the wheel are pretty comparable to the real thing, though weaker than you would feel in real life and leaves out things you don't notice anyway. I'm sure it'll be improved further over time but for those complaining and getting upset about it, you just don't know what you're supposed to be feeling.......... Its a game, an awesome game but just a game, just have to keep that in mind........
 
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Is this game still stuck at 1080p on PS4 Pro? Any hope of it being patched for a more Pro like 1440p or maybe higher?
 
My experience is quite different. If the wheel rotation does not match the thing on screen, than the feeling is off (too fast or too slow).

AC an PC2 do this perfectly as did DR1. In DR2.0 things are different. Not bad, just different. And it takes a while for everyone to figure out the best way of doing things.

Oh and I switch soft lock to OFF, and with that if I enter the boundaries of 540 degrees, there is still a soft lock (encreased resistance in the wheel).
It's just the steering animation. You play on ps4 right?, could you please check if 1080º is still unsupported for this system?, go calibration and see whether the wheel passes the 95% mark. Do it passing the soft lock that is next to the 1080º until you reach the hard one (they added that two years ago). If passing the soft until it reaches 1080º and still stuck at 95-97%, then that means still isn't supported. Please check that for me as I no longer have this console, but I wanna know regardless.

From now on anyway just set your wheel at 900º and let the game set your wheel degrees for each car without having to resort to anything else. And if 1080º is supported now after you do the above check, then leave it at 1080º.
 
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It's just the stering animation. You play on ps4 right, could you please check if 1080º is sttill unsupported for this system?, go calibration and see whether the wheel passes the 95% mark. Do it passing the soft lock that is next to the 1080º until you reach the hard one (they added that two years ago). If passing the soft until it reaches 1080º and still stuck at 95-97%, then that means still isn't supported. Please check that for me as I no longer have this console, but I wanna now regardless.

From now on anyway just set your wheel at 900º and let the game set your wheel degrees for each car without having to resort to anything else. And if 1080º is supported now after you do the above check, then leave it at 1080º.
I can confirm that with my T300 that 1080 is supported by the PS4.

I can get to 100% (past the soft lock) on both DR2.0 and PC2, as I was playing around with wheel calibration on both of them last night.
 
@fernandito , my G25 only has 900 degrees. It mimics that it's a G29 (also 900).

For me it's not JUST the animation. I consider the animation important. I like it to be in sync with my wheel. I don't know why CM have done things differently in 2.0 as opposed to DR1 (and AC and PC2).
 
@fernandito , my G25 only has 900 degrees. It mimics that it's a G29 (also 900).

For me it's not JUST the animation. I consider the animation important. I like it to be in sync with my wheel. I don't know why CM have done things differently in 2.0 as opposed to DR1 (and AC and PC2).


I've got a G29, I turned off the steering wheel in cockpit view right from the beginning because it was a distraction. Do this and there's no animation issues!!!
 
I've got a G29, I turned off the steering wheel in cockpit view right from the beginning because it was a distraction. Do this and there's no animation issues!!!

I'll give it a try, even though I really like my 540 degrees.

To what did you set yours?
 
I'll give it a try, even though I really like my 540 degrees.

To what did you set yours?

Whatever the factory calibration is at, still have soft lock on just turned everything up a little. When I have a wheel, the cockpit steering wheel is just a distraction. I find it much more enjoyable without the wheel but use the hood camera most of the time anyway.
 
Haven’t got to stage rally yet but as a three time THSCC rallyX champion (06 WRX swapped 95 Impreza L in profile pic) I can say I know what they were going for even though I sometimes wish it was a little heavier.

However, when you’re in the grove and setting a good pace the FFB reminds me of all the good driving sensations you feel when pushing the limits off tarmac. How you can let the wheel slide through your hands, the way it feels when you throw your car into a corner sideways, even surface transitions, and The response you get when testing front traction before diving into a turn. Does it replicate the real thing exactly, no but that would be impossible anyways.

When I get in the zone and drive the car how t should be driven the FFB sometimes brings a smile to my face and I say damn, that brings me back to the real thing. Another reason I love this game, I’m sitting this season out with a blown engine. It’s going to be a little while before I can rebuild it since I’m getting married next month but this game is the best I’ve got for now and I’m more than happy with it and the FFB!!!!!



Figured I'd add that when you're driving 70-75mph on dirt or gravel (which is as fast as I've been on a rally course) you don't feel every little rock or bump, especially with a rally specific suspension which has more travel and designed to soak up all the little stuff. Going that fast flying sideways past trees doesn't give you time to think about all the little bumps and terrain so you really don't even notice it. If you consciously think about how to react its too late, you almost have to drive at a subconscious level and train your muscle memory to automatically react to a situation before you have time to process it. That is what the game is trying to recreate. I can imagine it being difficult to get it if you haven't felt it in real life but the forces that come through the wheel are pretty comparable to the real thing, though weaker than you would feel in real life and leaves out things you don't notice anyway. I'm sure it'll be improved further over time but for those complaining and getting upset about it, you just don't know what you're supposed to be feeling.......... Its a game, an awesome game but just a game, just have to keep that in mind........

That's the thing. I live in the wilderness and the road to my house most resembles Poland or Australia in the game. While I don't have a Rally car, I do have a 2018 Honda Accord and I routinely drive it at speeds of 60+(don't tell my wife) out here and do not feel every rock and pebble. Quite the opposite, it feels remarkably smooth. I'm not sure there is such a big of an ffb issue as some people are making out. Now admittedly, I did edit my xml file which gave me added weight and turned up the forces that were there.
 
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@fernandito , my G25 only has 900 degrees. It mimics that it's a G29 (also 900).

For me it's not JUST the animation. I consider the animation important. I like it to be in sync with my wheel. I don't know why CM have done things differently in 2.0 as opposed to DR1 (and AC and PC2).

But DR1 only had 360 animation, or was it just 180?

If you remove the hands you get full animation.
 
^180º

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I can confirm that with my T300 that 1080 is supported by the PS4.

I can get to 100% (past the soft lock) on both DR2.0 and PC2, as I was playing around with wheel calibration on both of them last night.
Now that I think of it, maybe I was just plain wrong and the 1080º thing not working on ps4 was just a project cars 2 issue on this system. I used to play Driveclub and can't recall well but, I think that in the wheel menu in this game you could set it to 1080º (no soft lock, no steering rack switch between cars).

This would be one big facts check if you're kind when you find another spare moment to try. If so then It was probably a pc2 thing only
 
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Ok than.

I tested it with hands on wheel set to off, saturation to 100 and Soft lock to ON. And presto, it works like a charm now. Even historically correct. The Lancia Fulvia has full 900 degrees, while newer cars like the Fabia R5 and Mustang have 540 degrees.

I was fooled by my first lap in DR2.0. I saw the dashcam with hands on wheel showed 540 degrees. In DR1 this was 180 with hands on and full radius with hands off the wheel.

Thanks for all the tips and hints.

I was pretty satisfied with my 540 degrees and the wheels being in synch. But now I have it historically correct. And I like that!
 
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