DiRT Rally Thread

Tell you what those settings would destroy us on the xbox using a TX, I think part of the issue is how maxed out you need it all on PS4, my TX on xbox i'm running SAT at between 40-55 !! Even that is too strong on stages like Greece and Finland.
 
With people struggling with what the pacenotes mean, this can help.

L, R: Left corner ahead, right corner ahead.
1,2,3,4,5,6: The number refers to the severity of a corner ahead. The spectrum goes from 1, referring to a slower, first-gear hairpin, to 6, which refers to a flat-out, sixth-gear sweeper.
+, -: Modifiers that adjust the above numbers slightly, giving the driver more detailed information.
: Opens and tightens, two notations that help describe an upcoming corner’s intricacies.
40,50,60 … 200: Numbers from 40 to 200 represent distance (in yards) between instructions and features on the rally stage road.
&: “And” represents a distance shorter than 40 yards.
>: “Into” represents a very short distance that requires the driver to transition directly from one action to another.
Cr: A “crest” is something you can’t see over or a feature that will likely unsettle the car.
Jmp: A “jump” will make the car come off the ground.
/: When you go “over” something, you need to take action while going over or through a rally stage feature.
OC: A corner is “off-camber.”
Slippy: Slippery section of road.
Grip: Section of road with a lot of grip.
Care: Difficult road ahead.
!: Caution means there’s a higher-than-normal probability there could be a crash.
!!: Double caution means there’s a higher-than-normal probability there could be a crash and that crashing will total your rally car.
!!!: Triple caution means there’s a higher-than-normal probability there could be a crash that could kill you.
 
Well.. i won, with the alpine and the Opel, the 60 and 70s Championhips at open and clubman level. Now i bought the Sierra and i will go for 80s. I'm a bit worried. I mean i really pushed myself to win the 70s at clubman level and i won by 6 points at the last rally. I'm not sure i will be able to compete with the AI at something more. I think ia the hardest racing game i've played in ages.. It brings me back to ps1 era.
 
Picked this game up for PS4 over the weekend and it is absolutely incredible. Graphics, sound and physics are all brilliant, well done Codemasters.

Good to see they are back to their true form when it comes to racing games. I was always a fan of the Colin McRae rally and TOCA series' growing up, but completely lost interest when the more arcade style Dirt and Grid were released.

They seem to be back on top with the F1 series and Dirt Rally, let's hope another top notch circuit racing game is on the cards!
 
T. Järvinen seems to have become my archrival in this game. He has followed me since the Clubman Championships and is so far the only AI opponent keeping on my toes. The damn Finn also finally got his revenge by beating me by .438 seconds after 8 stages in Greece, in the Professional Championship. Prior to this, I managed to keep him away from my first place in Wales, beating him by only around .700 seconds after 6 stages in the Clubman Championship.

This game is exhausting at times but I still can't get enough of it. I ----ing love it. I'm thankful for Codemasters bringing this game to the consoles.
 
JvM
@Ialyrn , I did just try the settings, and the behaviour is pretty much the same. For the pikes peak cars it seems instantly when theres a little slip with the front tyres (understeer slightly for example) the wheel goes very light. Ofcourse its logical when spinning the tyres completely out of hairpin for example, but in those cases the wheel would pull slightly to the inside of the corner even. Quite weird.

Then I tried Germany stage with the WRC Polo and it felt quite different, and better in similar situations.

If nothing works then I guess we have to accept that it's an anomaly with the Pikes Peak cars. Probably also the reason why we can't use PP cars elsewhere, or non-PP cars on PP. Which brings the question: what part of the physics did they have to fudge for this particular track and why?

Are you going by the name only? Tyre Slip merely triggers a generic rumble effect when the rear tyres break loose.

All Steering Center Force does is return the wheel to centre when the car has been reset.

Rumbles and damping - that's what we're given control over, bar one setting. SAT? It's behaviour doesn't make sense to me. On track, the wheel is so willing to drift and jolt with barely a cause, if any - meanwhile, edge up a steep embankment off track and the wheel will do nothing. Extremely dubious about how the ffb is generated.

Non-dynamic (despite their description) damping and rumble respectively. Not going to help.

I realized my mistake with Tyre Slip in my second post a couple posts above yours.

Steering center force isn't even an in-game setting. It's a Logitech profiler setting. I never used it so I have no idea what it does, but from what people explained it is basically an artificial force to return steering to centre when game physics did not include SAT values back in the day.

Yes, I agree with your last point. Seems to me all of the advanced settings bar SAT are canned effects. Even the SAT itself is unpredictable at times. Not a sign of a good physics engine underneath. It might be passable for most situations on dirt, but on tarmac or off track (going up embankments as you said) the deficiencies will show.

Still, all things considered, DR is pretty good. Even the mighty RBR had problems back in the day. If we are still struggling to simulate road surface physics accurately, then loose surface physics is going to be even more of a challenge.
 
So, I ended up finishing 2nd in the Clubman Championship run in the Stratos. I had a single point lead going into the final event at Sweden which I naturally flunked.

Now onto Professional where my car of the choice is the beautiful 306 Maxi F2 Kit Car. Managed to get a 3rd in the opening rally at Wales which is usually where I crash and burn. Looking forward to this season already. :D
 
So, I ended up finishing 2nd in the Clubman Championship run in the Stratos. I had a single point lead going into the final event at Sweden which I naturally flunked.

Now onto Professional where my car of the choice is the beautiful 306 Maxi F2 Kit Car. Managed to get a 3rd in the opening rally at Wales which is usually where I crash and burn. Looking forward to this season already. :D

The Kit Cars are unrightfully fun in gravel spec. And don't forget the handbrake when you get to Monaco.... those things turn into barges with the tarmac tyres on the sheet ice. Lots of throttle, lock and handbrake all at once.

Plus hitting things with the back of the car is preferable to the front especially in a front-engine FWD
 
MXH
T. Järvinen seems to have become my archrival in this game.
C. Driscoll is mine - he spun me around in a Super 1600 rallycross event at Holjes that saw me knocked out of the heats. He went on to win the event, while I missed out on promotions to the next level. I wonder what the "C." stands for. Probably "Cameron". "Cameron Driscoll" sounds like the name of a guy who would spin you around like that.
 
Sorry if I'm asking this in the wrong place but do any of you fine chaps happen to know if its possible to map the TH8A shifter to be handbrake on PS4 whilst retaining the ability to keep manual gears with the paddles or are you then stuck with automatic transmission?

I don't know if it will work on PS4 (it should) but I did this and it's working rather well for me.

If you have a manual shifter, the rubber-band trick is perfect. I run three strong rubber bands on my TH8A shifter (I keep the H-pattern, don't like the sequential mode - and I use the manual sometimes) and use 4th gear as my e-brake. It works a treat.

When running a manual transmission I use a paddle for the e-brake.
 
Here is the Kadett at Sweden, really is well worth a run at Sweden.
I find the Kadett disappointing - I can get so much more out of the Escort. I particularly noticed it in Germany, where I am regularly eight seconds faster over a stage in an Escort than I am in a Kadett.
 
Because I don't like having to rebind controls every time I switch cars, I've just bound the upper right button on my wheel to shift up and still use the right paddle as the e-brake. There's really no difference for me using a paddle vs. a button to shift. It'd be better if they made it so you could bind two different sets of controls for the different gearbox types, though.
 
C. Driscoll is mine - he spun me around in a Super 1600 rallycross event at Holjes that saw me knocked out of the heats. He went on to win the event, while I missed out on promotions to the next level. I wonder what the "C." stands for. Probably "Cameron". "Cameron Driscoll" sounds like the name of a guy who would spin you around like that.
I can think of another c-word.

:embarrassed:
 
I like to give them proper names. Mostly because they're lacking personality otherwise. I miss some ofthe consistent performers in Dirt 3, like Dmitri Smetsky, the incompetent Russian.
 
I realized my mistake with Tyre Slip in my second post a couple posts above yours.
Ah sorry, didn't see it.
Steering center force isn't even an in-game setting. It's a Logitech profiler setting. I never used it so I have no idea what it does, but from what people explained it is basically an artificial force to return steering to centre when game physics did not include SAT values back in the day.
There's a setting with the exact same name in game, and a description of what it does.

I really want to enjoy this game, but the ffb is just way too out of whack for me. To make the odd behaviour of SAT even remotely manageable I need to turn it right down, but then the forces that I need are too weak. I think that the low dynamic range of budget wheels is what the ffb is tailored to, and what is effectively ffb compression with those wheels makes the oddities stand out far less.
 
I really want to enjoy this game, but the ffb is just way too out of whack for me. To make the odd behaviour of SAT even remotely manageable I need to turn it right down, but then the forces that I need are too weak. I think that the low dynamic range of budget wheels is what the ffb is tailored to, and what is effectively ffb compression with those wheels makes the oddities stand out far less.

The interesting part of that statement is that many people in this thread have been complaining about weak FFB when they first start the game. I suspect some of that is that DR does offer a well judged dynamic range "for weak consumer wheels" and the 60's cars never really load up much force, compared to newer cars on more undulating roads.

From what I've read, Accuforce users have been getting excellent results using Simcommander to override DR stock FFB, so the underlying physics isn't that bad. Even despite it clearly being some tweaks on top of Codemasters' existing engine (as we saw evolve during Early Access).
 
I totally disagree with some of the statements about FFB, FFB on the finland stages is sublime, I have a TX wheel playing on xbox one and the forces are way too high, so I turn down SAT to 40-50 and the rest of the feel from the road i can turn up, all SAT does for me it seems is control how powerful the wheel wants to torque steer or let the wheels tramline ... The only bug bear for me is Monte Carlo but that is tarmac with ice on it so of course its going to feel weird.
Having said that maybe PS4 needs a patch as the wheels don't seem to be working as well? Xbox is well strong and at max is crazy stupid.

Also this talk of 'canned effects' well everything is canned...its a computer game... and i think once you hear some posters saying stuff like "dynamic range of budget wheels" you see what their agenda is....
 
C. Driscoll is mine - he spun me around in a Super 1600 rallycross event at Holjes that saw me knocked out of the heats. He went on to win the event, while I missed out on promotions to the next level. I wonder what the "C." stands for. Probably "Cameron". "Cameron Driscoll" sounds like the name of a guy who would spin you around like that.

T. Weber is my key opponent, always seems to be at the top of the timesheets.
 
L.Beattie and P.Olsen here, both tussle with position in each of the events. Its a great 3-way battle.
 
I must say as you delve into the 'career' it works really well, i am hoping it all random weather though each time? any know if thats correct?
 
How many rallying landmarks have you spotted? Colin's Crest and the Yellow House Jump are definitely in there, and I am pretty sure Petter Solberg's house is, too. Plus, there's a handful of corners that I recognise, but couldn't put a name to, particularly in Finland.

I must say as you delve into the 'career' it works really well, i am hoping it all random weather though each time? any know if thats correct?
Pretty sure even the stage selection is randomised.
 
I drove a couple of Group B cars the other day and realised why it was banned. The cars are scary fast and give you a real thrill if you drive them correctly. If you don't, it gets quite nasty - just like the real thing...
 
I don't know if it will work on PS4 (it should) but I did this and it's working rather well for me.

I don't even understand that if im being honest but thanks! Think I'd need to see a picture. I like to use paddles for manual gears on rally games or the sequential stick at least. The manual stick gears are too fiddly to change fast for me!
 
There's a setting with the exact same name in game, and a description of what it does.

Ah I didn't see it in the Codemasters blog explaining FFB that I linked. Must be added in a later update then. What does the in-game description state?

Still, I can't imagine it's a useful effect to have. At least in terms of communicating the physics as pure as possible.

I really want to enjoy this game, but the ffb is just way too out of whack for me. To make the odd behaviour of SAT even remotely manageable I need to turn it right down, but then the forces that I need are too weak. I think that the low dynamic range of budget wheels is what the ffb is tailored to, and what is effectively ffb compression with those wheels makes the oddities stand out far less.

I have a G25 so I'll tell you what the FFB is like when I get DR in the near future. I suspect the oddities will still stand out, but they are just exaggerated because otherwise budget wheel users won't even feel anything (a common complaint with AC FFB is that it's too vague - but most cheap wheels just can't produce the range of forces required).

In an ideal world, there should be a "Dynamic Range" option that toggles between compressed and full range FFB (just like audio options having this for TV speaker vs Home Theater output).

Also this talk of 'canned effects' well everything is canned...its a computer game... and i think once you hear some posters saying stuff like "dynamic range of budget wheels" you see what their agenda is....

Err no...From the days of ISImotor sims there is a clear difference between canned and physics derived effects. They are both 0s and 1s at the end of the day, but one is pre-programmed, the other is dynamic.

Canned = independent from what the actual car physics is doing (e.g. kerb/engine/braking/steering vibrations)

Physics derived = direct output from the forces calculated by the physics (e.g. SAT, steering rack forces)

In past games the physics model is simplified, so a lot of those calculations are missing and they put in canned effects to substitute. In newer sims the calculations are more complex and for the most part the "pure" physics derived FFB is enough to give a lively (and more accurate) feel. Personally, I like adding kerb vibration effects, but that's it. Anything else is just useless info that masks the pure FFB.
 
Discussing canned versus physics-derived effects further: I am pretty sure that only SAT is really physics derived, it's been discussed a lot during Early Access, as they revised the basic FFB heavily. However, I am also sure that the other effects do a good job of providing feedback on the road surface (differing vibration across differing surface types), how the car is sliding (vibration changes as you grip or slide, you feel the car dig in to the gravel), obstacles, etc... So even though they are probably canned, they clearly add value.

I feel the DR FFB information on loose surfaces is a lot more useful than the SLRE equivalent, for example. And given where the EGO engine was prior to DR I think they made the right pragmatic choice. It works, it doesn't ever feel strange (on my "customer class wheel" at least), it gives you the information you need to get the job done. It's a simplification, but then so are the forces on our wheels anyway.

It's also clear that the DR team wants to rebuild the engine more comprehensively to get the ability to use physics to properly simulate loose surfaces and be able to derive the FFB from there. The question is how tiny a percentage of the audience would notice, and how much work it would be to get physics-derived loose surface FFB handling all use cases comfortably.

In this respect I liken it to tarmac physics & tyre models in iRacing/pCARS/Assetto Corsa: They are tweaking, tweaking, tweaking all the time to get the models in a position to behave properly across the full breadth of situations, especially on the edge or over the limit of grip. Those 3 sims regularly make significant changes to the tyre model with sometimes dramatic impact on how cars drive, as they are iterating towards improvements in their physics models. That process takes time, budget, the desire to progress, and a customer base willing to put up with the constant variations.
You can often see from negative explosions on forums that "2 steps forward 1 step back" changes to tyre models are hard for the community to accept, even for pure sim racers who at least appreciate the realism end goal. I am pretty sure that Codemasters simply doesn't have the same option, both from a business and a customer base point of view. I don't see the DR team as being in a position to change the underlying physics except as part of delivering a sequel.
 
I drove a couple of Group B cars the other day and realised why it was banned. The cars are scary fast and give you a real thrill if you drive them correctly. If you don't, it gets quite nasty - just like the real thing...
That and I read that they were effectively big bombs waiting to explode, what with the driver sitting on the fuel tank. Or was that just one of the Group B cars? Anyway, scary machines whichever way you look at them.
 
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