Disheartened and disappointed with switching to wheel :(

[TechnoIsLove]

IMO there's no problem with the wheel, nor the way you are using it (in general).

Having watched your videos, the only significant errors you make are on turns 9 & 10 (immediately after the Corkscrew). These alone are costing you 1.5 sec for sure.

Turn 9 (Rainey Curve) you lift off slightly late and consequently need to brake harder than usual, mid corner. Adding salt to the wound you then dab the accelerator, realise your mistake and lift off, greatly affecting your exit speed. At the entrance to Turn 9, had you lifted off slightly earlier, the timing of your accelerator input would likely have been correct and pushed you around the turn nicely.

Similarly on Turn 10 you over-cook the entrance, and consequently the required brake application is harder and longer than optimal. Also you're not using the full track width on the left, likely because of the bad exit from turn 9. On Turn 10 you can ride the left wheels onto the ripple strip and lift off just as you touch it. Press the brake and then release slightly (or fully if you can) to initiate turn in. Once you're sure that your entry angle is correct, power onnnnnn baby!

I haven't set a Qualy on this race yet, but I'll try now, and let you know if the above advice is accurate.

Edit: from your split time, you are losing 0.6 seconds in this final sector, therefore 0.8 seconds in the first parts. I'll check the videos again

Mate, as I told everyone else, thank you as I'm honestly chuffed with everyone's replies and help! Seems like I've got a lot to take in and adjust to 🤣 Looking forward to watch (if possible) your lap as I'm sure I can learn one or two things! Thanks again!

 

[TJC_69]

So I have been consistently fast with a controller and never far off the top times in Sport Mode and finishing in the top 7 often, even when starting 12th, etc. The lack of precision, at least for me, in controller turning made me feel like I reached my peak and needed a wheel to improve and compete up top.

I honestly could not go for the top wheels as just had some big personal expenses (inc wedding) so I went with the Logitech G29, which seems to had the best reviews for entry-level wheels.

The change is immense! I am much more precise, more immersed and playing GT7 overall is much more fun! But the angle of rotation makes it impossible to compete in Sport Mode. In Single player I don't mind having to slow down for the tight corners but in Sport Mode, especially qualifying, it kills your lap time.

Not being able to change the degrees of rotation in GT7 sucks - I literally am 1.5 seconds slower per lap using the wheel vs my controller times and this is after hours and hours of practice. I am much more precise but need to slow down so much as the turning circle using the G29 is similar to that of a city bus.

I am so disappointed and sad. I changed the rotation on F1 22 and it made all the difference. Why didn't PD include this option? Biggest let down ever and it kind of ruined the excitement I had as I went backwards rather than improve, so much so that for Sport Mode, I am always using controller to qualify and depending on the track layout, sometimes use the wheel as I still make up positions overall.

Anyone else suffering the same way? There really is no way of changing the rotation degrees, right?

This change and lack of pace right away is completely normal. It takes a couple of weeks to get used to, and then rival and beat your previous pad times. It will all click for you with more practice. You will get there. Stick with it and keep improving.

(Fellow G29 user).

 

[Mudda Chod]

Ok, I managed a 1.20.830 and have uploaded the video. I like your idea of watching from inside the car also, to see the steering movements. I discovered that I oversteered on the first 3 corners, so probably I could improve my time if I followed my own advice!

Anyway, it's all about the gear changes. See point 3 in my original reply i.e. Drop down a gear to help turn in, then back up for a smooth exit. Watch the replay of the WRX which is currently in the Top 10, you will see what I mean.

Additionally, you could improve both your controller and wheel times by using different gears (compared to what you are currently using) in some places. Specifically:

Turn 3: Exit should be in 3rd (not 4th)

Turn 6: Exit onto the Rahal Straight is faster in 5th rather than 4th (use 4th on entry to encourage turn-in, then up to 5th for exit)

Corkscrew: Drop down to 2nd to help braking then 3rd for exit. Control spin with a short lift of the accelerator, then back on it.

Turn 10: Enter wide from the left, drop down to 3rd gear to encourage turn-in, then when you are sure of your line, change back up to 4th and use full throttle on exit

Turn 11: The final tight left. I'm not sure if staying in 2nd is best, or early shift to 3rd. I went to 3rd but watch the Top 10 replay to check what he does.

Here's my vid. Hopefully it helps.

 

[Monkdapunk]

If you haven't yet, you need to hook your wheel up to a pc and download the logitec software. In there you can change the rotation degrees and centre spring and ffb. Also if you haven't done this you need to update the wheels firmware by going to the logitec website. The last update was in May so it's pretty current for the age of the wheel. The wheel clips easy too because it's weak so have ffb set to 2 maybe 3 and sensitivity to 1. I used settings I googled for the logitech program on pc and found a big difference. Hope this helps.

 

[TechnoIsLove]

Ok, I managed a 1.20.830 and have uploaded the video. I like your idea of watching from inside the car also, to see the steering movements. I discovered that I oversteered on the first 3 corners, so probably I could improve my time if I followed my own advice!

Anyway, it's all about the gear changes. See point 3 in my original reply i.e. Drop down a gear to help turn in, then back up for a smooth exit. Watch the replay of the WRX which is currently in the Top 10, you will see what I mean.

Additionally, you could improve both your controller and wheel times by using different gears (compared to what you are currently using) in some places. Specifically:

Turn 3: Exit should be in 3rd (not 4th)

Turn 6: Exit onto the Rahal Straight is faster in 5th rather than 4th (use 4th on entry to encourage turn-in, then up to 5th for exit)

Corkscrew: Drop down to 2nd to help braking then 3rd for exit. Control spin with a short lift of the accelerator, then back on it.

Turn 10: Enter wide from the left, drop down to 3rd gear to encourage turn-in, then when you are sure of your line, change back up to 4th and use full throttle on exit

Turn 11: The final tight left. I'm not sure if staying in 2nd is best, or early shift to 3rd. I went to 3rd but watch the Top 10 replay to check what he does.

Here's my vid. Hopefully it helps.

Dude, this is a big help! Will watch and watch and try it after work! Great lap btw

If you haven't yet, you need to hook your wheel up to a pc and download the logitec software. In there you can change the rotation degrees and centre spring and ffb. Also if you haven't done this you need to update the wheels firmware by going to the logitec website. The last update was in May so it's pretty current for the age of the wheel. The wheel clips easy too because it's weak so have ffb set to 2 maybe 3 and sensitivity to 1. I used settings I googled for the logitech program on pc and found a big difference. Hope this helps.

I haven't connected to PC or download yet so will probably do that today. So the change to degrees of rotation is "stored" on the wheel, even when I reconnect to PS5?

 

[Mudda Chod]

Dude, this is a big help! Will watch and watch and try it after work! Great lap btw

You're welcome!

So the change to degrees of rotation is "stored" on the wheel, even when I reconnect to PS5?

No. It resets back to default as soon as you disconnect it from the pc.

 

[Mudda Chod]

Unfortunately today's physics update means that you won't be able to compare yesterday's times, to evaluate the improvement

 

[TechnoIsLove]

Unfortunately today's physics update means that you won't be able to compare yesterday's times, to evaluate the improvement

Is it better or worse?

 

[Monkdapunk]

Dude, this is a big help! Will watch and watch and try it after work! Great lap btw

I haven't connected to PC or download yet so will probably do that today. So the change to degrees of rotation is "stored" on the wheel, even when I reconnect to PS5?

Yes it's "baked in". When you hook the wheel up to the pc there's a Logitec Hub program you download and you can mess with wheels settings in there and it will apply them to whatever you use the wheel for. The settings are stored until you change them on pc again. You can set the wheel degrees, peddle input. I set my centre spring to "on" and changed the value to 20 from 10 as was recommended in a video I watched. Just Google settings it's one of the first 5 or so results.

The firmware is really important since you are probably many versions behind if you haven't connected to a pc. For the firmware gonto the Logitec website and go to support and downloads and find the g29.

Remember the wheel isn't very strong so if you set your ffb past 3 it's not giving you any info it's just producing innacuarate force. I got used to driving with bad settings and strong arming my wheel around for no reason and got way faster when I could actually feel the tires/road.

 

[TechnoIsLove]

Thank you, will sort this out now! On a separate note, using everyone's tips I just beat my personal best controller time by 0.1s 🎉🤣 I know it's nothing but up until yesterday, i was 1.5s down! And I messed up a lap where I was already 0.742s in front of new time so I know I can go much faster! Thank you for all your input, I owe you at least the value of a tv and G29 wheel as it was getting close to them meeting violently 🤣 !!!!!

Edit: Damn work laptops and their admin right permissions 🤣 Will have to drive over to parents house in the weekend and take the wheel with me to update and set the rotation 🤪

Is the best setting 520° or 360° please?

And @Monkdapunk so you recommend FFB of just 2? Is this from the Logitech hub side or the GT7 wheel settings side? Thanks

 

[Monkdapunk]

Thank you, will sort this out now! On a separate note, using everyone's tips I just beat my personal best controller time by 0.1s 🎉🤣 I know it's nothing but up until yesterday, i was 1.5s down! And I messed up a lap where I was already 0.742s in front of new time so I know I can go much faster! Thank you for all your input, I owe you at least the value of a tv and G29 wheel as it was getting close to them meeting violently 🤣 !!!!!

Edit: Damn work laptops and their admin right permissions 🤣 Will have to drive over to parents house in the weekend and take the wheel with me to update and set the rotation 🤪

Is the best setting 520° or 360° please?

And @Monkdapunk so you recommend FFB of just 2? Is this from the Logitech hub side or the GT7 wheel settings side? Thanks

Here is a link to the site I used for the info... https://www.google.com/amp/s/solox.gg/gran-turismo-7-logitech-settings/amp/

On the ghub side of things.

• Operating range = 900
• Sensitivity = 50
• Centering spring strength = 20

On the in game side of things. Ffb strength 2-3. I feel it clip a bit on 3 but only when I'm being an idiot. I have Sensitivity on 1 and that's a preference thing. I feel I can make more precise fine movements when trying to pass or avoid contact and surprises. I used to play with the ffb jacked up but you are just playing with broken power steering at that point with this wheel and to get the most you have to have those settings low. You get a gradient of ffb instead of the wheel just getting heavy right away. It's nice.

 

[Mudda Chod]

Yes it's "baked in". When you hook the wheel up to the pc there's a Logitec Hub program you download and you can mess with wheels settings in there and it will apply them to whatever you use the wheel for. The settings are stored until you change them on pc again.

Wow, really!!! ln this case I'm happy to be wrong

Ffb strength 2-3. I feel it clip a bit on 3 but only when I'm being an idiot. I have Sensitivity on 1 and that's a preference thing. I feel I can make more precise fine movements when trying to pass or avoid contact and surprises.

I agree... I'm using FFB 2-4 and sensitivity on 10. I feel that the two are connected, like multiplied, so that FFB 2 at Sensitivity 10 is similar to FFB 4 at Sensitivity 5.

I want to feel what's going on, but not have the wheel overpower my inputs

 

[jonoholland29]

Not being able to change the degrees of rotation in GT7 sucks - I literally am 1.5 seconds slower per lap using the wheel vs my controller times and this is after hours and hours of practice. I am much more precise but need to slow down so much as the turning circle using the G29 is similar to that of a city bus.

I am so disappointed and sad. I changed the rotation on F1 22 and it made all the difference. Why didn't PD include this option? Biggest let down ever and it kind of ruined the excitement I had as I went backwards rather than improve, so much so that for Sport Mode, I am always using controller to qualify and depending on the track layout, sometimes use the wheel as I still make up positions overall.

Anyone else suffering the same way? There really is no way of changing the rotation degrees, right?

A big disappointment from PD here. Every other game you can change the rotation. The dream would be for the rotation to match the vehicle but I guess that will always be a dream...

And If I'm dreaming I'd like the gears to match too so when I'm in a stick shift the panels are disabled and when I'm in a paddle shifter the stick is disabled.

 

[Mudda Chod]

A big disappointment from PD here. Every other game you can change the rotation. The dream would be for the rotation to match the vehicle but I guess that will always be a dream...

And If I'm dreaming I'd like the gears to match too so when I'm in a stick shift the panels are disabled and when I'm in a paddle shifter the stick is disabled.

Ok, while we are on this, I'm really happy to see the introduction of calibration to pedals, in GT7... For the first time, on G29, you can set dead band and max values for brake and accelerator (and insignificant clutch). This is fantastic and I totally recommend you set this to your preference. It will improve your laptimes (marginally) because the car will react better to your natural inputs. Or maybe your inputs will react better to the game feedback, I'm not sure...

The H-shifter discussion is an old one. It was introduced into GT Sport, and then very quickly removed due to a significant advantage for those who had it. I suppose the game should be respected for it's attempted equality

 

[TechnoIsLove]

Ok, while we are on this, I'm really happy to see the introduction of calibration to pedals, in GT7... For the first time, on G29, you can set dead band and max values for brake and accelerator (and insignificant clutch). This is fantastic and I totally recommend you set this to your preference. It will improve your laptimes (marginally) because the car will react better to your natural inputs. Or maybe your inputs will react better to the game feedback, I'm not sure...

The H-shifter discussion is an old one. It was introduced into GT Sport, and then very quickly removed due to a significant advantage for those who had it. I suppose the game should be respected for it's attempted equality

So I didn't want to wait until the weekend so called a friend to come over quick and let me download G Hub 🤣

He was in a hurry and it took some time to find a version for Windows 8 lol bit finally managed. All I had time to was change rotation settings to 360° and up the sensitivity of everything from 50 to 55.

Instant difference! Improved by 0.2s over my best controller time within 4 laps a s jumped into a race. Started 14th as I'm still needing to improve qualy lap from current 1:21:8 🤣

However.... Clean race and 5 gained in pure overtaking 🎉🙂

Will get my dad's laptop Saturday and spend proper time fine tuning but for a quick setup, very happy!

 

[Monkdapunk]

Hey that's good man. 👍 Make sure to get that firmware though it's the most important. Glad I could help.

 

[NevilleNobody]

I too am another failed controller to wheel guy but it's gonna be forced upon me as I am getting tennis elbow from thr controller. And by controller i mean dpad and x button man. I have three issues, in order of least to most important;

1) end of the day I like to chill on the couch, my wheel seat is horrible and I don't really have room for a proper seat

2) steering is maddening. I turn a little, car does nothing, bit more, nothing, bit more........waaaaaaay too much. Reducing the steering angle works but I feel there I'd a massive dead zone

3) brakes. I feel NOTHING. no idea what pressure I am using or when it's locking up, just nothing. Totally lifeless.

Its very, very frustrating.

 

[Leggacy]

The degrees of rotation differ between cars, it’s usually set for the real world figures. You should feel the soft lock much earlier in a kart than a road car for example. Being able to change the DOR would spoil the situation.

 

[Push_Pull]

I too am another failed controller to wheel guy but it's gonna be forced upon me as I am getting tennis elbow from thr controller. And by controller i mean dpad and x button man. I have three issues, in order of least to most important;

1) end of the day I like to chill on the couch, my wheel seat is horrible and I don't really have room for a proper seat

2) steering is maddening. I turn a little, car does nothing, bit more, nothing, bit more........waaaaaaay too much. Reducing the steering angle works but I feel there I'd a massive dead zone

3) brakes. I feel NOTHING. no idea what pressure I am using or when it's locking up, just nothing. Totally lifeless.

Its very, very frustrating.

Someone needs a load cell. I couldn’t imagine not having one and going back to a potentiometer.

 

[Mudda Chod]

Someone needs a load cell. I couldn’t imagine not having one and going back to a potentiometer.

Yeah, maybe. I also upgraded my G29 brake with the Ricmotech load cell, but it wasn't a perfect solution for Gran Turismo due to calibration issues (lack of) and no hard stop. After physically modifying it, it was fine but what I discovered along the way suggests that, at the core level, the physical feel of the pedal might be more important than the electronic technology behind it (resistor Vs load cell Vs hall effects).

In any case, the original potentiometer will wear out after a few months, and he will need to install another solution (refer other thread on G29 potentiometers).

I too am another failed controller to wheel guy but it's gonna be forced upon me as I am getting tennis elbow from thr controller. And by controller i mean dpad and x button man. I have three issues, in order of least to most important;

1) end of the day I like to chill on the couch, my wheel seat is horrible and I don't really have room for a proper seat

2) steering is maddening. I turn a little, car does nothing, bit more, nothing, bit more........waaaaaaay too much. Reducing the steering angle works but I feel there I'd a massive dead zone

3) brakes. I feel NOTHING. no idea what pressure I am using or when it's locking up, just nothing. Totally lifeless.

Its very, very frustrating.

@NevilleNobody, I'm not sure if #3 is your most important or #1. Also it would be use to know what wheel/pedals you are using, and which view do you use (bumper/roof/cabin/chase).

Anyway, here's some suggestions.

3. Other than those lucky few who have pedals with haptic feedback, we all suffer from the same difficulty i.e. How to know what the car is doing whilst braking. The brakes themselves tell you nothing, but indications are provided visually, audibly and via the wheel. Try changing your sound effect levels (in Options) to +5 for Tyre Sounds and -5 for Opponents Engine sounds. If you have any music playing while you are racing, turn it off, so you can hear what's going with your tyres. Also a headset with good high frequency response (NOT base) will give you much better feedback than TV speakers. A low level squeel means you're at the limit of grip (good) but if your tyres are screaming then they are sliding and no amount of turning the wheel will help you. I use bumper view, but at first it's easier to use the view from the roof of the car because you can actually see the car lean in, or out, during braking and accelerating. If you combine the visual and audible clues, along with sensitive FFB in the wheel, you will soon learn exactly when each tyre loses traction, and can adapt your braking point/technique to eliminate understeer. I've mentioned it previously, but it's also critical to have a physical hard stop on your beak pedal, so you know exactly when you're at 100% braking force. This is not to help you apply 100% braking force, it's to help you reduce it from 100% to 90%, then 80% etc as you progress through the corner i.e. Trail Braking

2. I suspect your problem with turn-in is a consequence of #3. If you brake early enough, the car will turn in correctly. If you brake late, no amount of turning the front wheels is effective. Possibly you have faulty hardware, or maybe some of the original post issues. Is it with all cars or only FF? Try the Shifter Kart... That turns pretty quick.

1. You don't need to have a proper seat or rig, but some aspects of the setup are critical. Originally my wheel was mounted on the dining table, and pedals secured with a rope around the chair, and I achieved A+ with this configuration. The critical thing is that everything is solid, without flex, and that you can push hard on the pedals without any movement. You can even mount your wheel on a coffee table and sit on the floor, providing your pedals are secured to whatever you are sitting on, or against, so that you can press firmly. Use a rope if you don't have something wooden you can secure it on.... Even 10mm of movement away from you, will cause your braking to suffer... Not much pedal movement to play with.

 

[breeminator]

Bro... it's because of the G29

World records have been set in GT using a G29.

 

[TechnoIsLove]

Hey that's good man. 👍 Make sure to get that firmware though it's the most important. Glad I could help.

Will try but since Logitech only actively supporting Windows 10 (and laptop I can use is W8) the G Hub version I have is very old and basic and didn't have any links to check and download firmware 🫤

 

[F30clubman]

As many people say here, I agree: give it time, get used to it and:

• drive where possible without assists, that includes no ABS. You will develop a feeling not to lock or to stop locking immediately. That will include an extra fun factor.
• for cars with a manual shifter: do use a manual shifter and not the gear change handles on the wheel.

Driving will feel much more natural and realistic.

 

[NikNakTobasco]

Measuring brake force with a pedal is just a matter of time really. You just get a feel for it

 

[Monkdapunk]

Will try but since Logitech only actively supporting Windows 10 (and laptop I can use is W8) the G Hub version I have is very old and basic and didn't have any links to check and download firmware 🫤

The firmware update has nothing to do with ghub. You get the firmware directly from the Logitec website. Go to support-> downloads->controllers->g29. The newest version is May 25th.

 

[wheelhp]

hopefully someone else mentioned it but on the old G27 you could "hold the two middle red buttons on the shifter and then press one of the 4 top buttons" meaning hold the middle red buttons then press on dpad, each dpad direction would change degrees of lock. Dunno if you can do that on a G29 though. Worth a shot

 

[Met Entso]

I'm on the same boat here, wheel and pedal is more difficult no doubt. Perseverance my friend.

 

[TechnoIsLove]

I'm on the same boat here, wheel and pedal is more difficult no doubt. Perseverance my friend.

I managed to borrow a Windows 11 laptop and installed latest G Hub and wheel drivers. I set rotation to 360 and pedal sensitivity to how I like it and it made all the difference! I'm now over a second faster than my best controller times and the steering/ pedals are much more responsive! Frown has been turned upside down 🤣

 

[FOG-Smokebeer]

hopefully someone else mentioned it but on the old G27 you could "hold the two middle red buttons on the shifter and then press one of the 4 top buttons" meaning hold the middle red buttons then press on dpad, each dpad direction would change degrees of lock. Dunno if you can do that on a G29 though. Worth a shot

You can do that on the T300 but it will reset every time you go to the menu meh! most games would keep the setting until to exit the game but not GT

 

[Met Entso]

I managed to borrow a Windows 11 laptop and installed latest G Hub and wheel drivers. I set rotation to 360 and pedal sensitivity to how I like it and it made all the difference! I'm now over a second faster than my best controller times and the steering/ pedals are much more responsive! Frown has been turned upside down 🤣

This is awesome! I might try it also! Thanks for sharing