Disheartened and disappointed with switching to wheel :(

Will need to check but I can 100% confirm i reduced steering angle down from 720 to 360 degrees and that was the biggest/ best change from default settings! I also remember I increased brake pedal sensitivity as I don't have upgraded springs and the standard ones are a bit disconnected from "real feel" if that makes sense...
But how do you get it to stick? when I go back to ps5 all changes revert back :) Is there somewhere I have to save that I have overlooked?
 
But how do you get it to stick? when I go back to ps5 all changes revert back :) Is there somewhere I have to save that I have overlooked?
Before you close the Hub, create a profile and save changes to it. That should automatically lock any changes to the wheel itself and transfer the changes onto any platform and game.
 
The only issue I had when switching to a wheel was getting used to straightening it quickly enough after a turn. With a controller you just let the stick go and the steering is dead straight instantly, while with a FF wheel it doesn't work like that at all and you actually have to forcefully turn it back straight to do it quickly enough, with the added risk of not being accurate enough. But you get used to this, and it how steering a car actually works.

Inversely, brake and throttle control is so much more accurate with pedals than with trigger buttons so managing break/throttle through turns is much easier than with a controller.
 
Inversely, brake and throttle control is so much more accurate with pedals than with trigger buttons so managing break/throttle through turns is much easier than with a controller.
I genuinely find braking precision much easier on controller. I don't have the finesse in my ankles. :(
 
Nope, changed settings 3 months ago and been as happy as I could be with the wheel/ pedals i have. Next step is springs upgrade for brake pedal 🙂
Just a placebo from GT's soft locked steering. Any changes made on the PC revert to the wheel's default when you plug into a console. There isn't any user configurable memory in the G29 at all, not even for a firmware so how would any setting get stored?
 
OP is definitely over-turning the wheel. You do not need to use more than 180 degrees of steering (90 degrees left or right). I have a G29 and I want to emphasize that the learning curve for using a wheel is STEEP. BUT it is faster and you can certainly be more consistent with a wheel. One thing to also note is that controller’s are much more forgiving. It is much easier to correct mistakes with a controller, and when you make the same mistake with a wheel the severity of the mistake is compounded. Also, getting a car righted from a crash is also harder too. A lot of people in this thread have stated that OP should go through the license tests again and that is the best advice. I myself was discouraged the first times I used a wheel thinking that it was over-hyped, but now after putting in the time and effort to learn I won’t go back to using a controller (unless in the shifter kart lol)
 
I am not a fan of the wheel, b/c when I got one for my ps2 while playing NFS Hot pursuit 2 back in 2003, my foot got hung in the brake pad and that was a mess so after that incident I stick with the controller, I don't think it would have helped me anyways.
 
G hub settings only work on pc as wheel doesn’t have any memory.
Try in game settings of 3 and 10.
The G29 doesn't have enough power to do 10 ffb. 4 ffb is pushing it even. I use 3 ffb and sensitivity on 1 or 2. A G29 is a weak wheel in terms of force. Simply put, your wheel has 100% to work with. When you have your settings too high you are asking 130% which is impossible. So what happens is "clipping" and the wheel gets overwhelmed and gives you false information. I used to keep mine jacked up like that and man handled the car until one day I changed it and could feel the tires and road and nuances in grip while steering. Takes away many of the snap oversteer issues because your wheel isn't freaking out.
 
The G29 doesn't have enough power to do 10 ffb. 4 ffb is pushing it even. I use 3 ffb and sensitivity on 1 or 2. A G29 is a weak wheel in terms of force. Simply put, your wheel has 100% to work with. When you have your settings too high you are asking 130% which is impossible. So what happens is "clipping" and the wheel gets overwhelmed and gives you false information. I used to keep mine jacked up like that and man handled the car until one day I changed it and could feel the tires and road and nuances in grip while steering. Takes away many of the snap oversteer issues because your wheel isn't freaking out.
3 strength and 10 sensitivity
 
The G29 doesn't have enough power to do 10 ffb. 4 ffb is pushing it even. I use 3 ffb and sensitivity on 1 or 2. A G29 is a weak wheel in terms of force. Simply put, your wheel has 100% to work with. When you have your settings too high you are asking 130% which is impossible. So what happens is "clipping" and the wheel gets overwhelmed and gives you false information. I used to keep mine jacked up like that and man handled the car until one day I changed it and could feel the tires and road and nuances in grip while steering. Takes away many of the snap oversteer issues because your wheel isn't freaking out.
Got any tips for trail-braking with a G29? Or is that just more a me-problem
 
3 strength and 10 sensitivity
It can't do 10 of anything. You're still asking for more work than it can do. I imagine the steering would be super direct too leaving no room for small corrections mid corner.

Got any tips for trail-braking with a G29? Or is that just more a me-problem
I've been using cheap peddles On DFGT and G29 for a long long time and my foot just has the muscle memory to do fine brake inputs now and it took awhile. It sounds dumb but I recommend standing on a raised surface with your toes and pushing up to work your calves and ankles. It gives you more pedal control for longer if you get heavy into trail breaking. It's weird keeping your foot locked lightly at a precise pressure so this will develope. Maybe practice stabbing at the peddle and trying to hit different braking % in your head. They sell some rubber inserts too but I couldn't be bothered. You'll learn eventually just don't practice in sport mode lmao!
 
I've been using cheap peddles On DFGT and G29 for a long long time and my foot just has the muscle memory to do fine brake inputs now and it took awhile. It sounds dumb but I recommend standing on a raised surface with your toes and pushing up to work your calves and ankles. It gives you more pedal control for longer if you get heavy into trail breaking. It's weird keeping your foot locked lightly at a precise pressure so this will develope. Maybe practice stabbing at the peddle and trying to hit different braking % in your head. They sell some rubber inserts too but I couldn't be bothered. You'll learn eventually just don't practice in sport mode lmao!
Heh, thanks for the tips. It makes sense honestly. If you're going to be using that muscle a lot, it helps to work it out outside of racing. Career drivers have intense physical regiments they need to keep up with to deal with the physical and psychological stresses of being in a cramped, hot racecar for long stints. So doing a couple foot exercises to help with trail braking doesn't sound too unreasonable.
Cheers.
 
I genuinely find braking precision much easier on controller. I don't have the finesse in my ankles. :(
This is a problem with the design of the controller. In real cars you modulate the brakes by pushing harder or less hard, not bending your ankle. Load cell brake pedals fix this, but they're $$$.
 
This is a problem with the design of the controller. In real cars you modulate the brakes by pushing harder or less hard, not bending your ankle. Load cell brake pedals fix this, but they're $$$.
I find I have more precision with ankles, especially over long runs, when my fingers start to crystallize aroung the controller, but

1) I'm happy to have a "very close to reality" simulation. I'm less happy to push like a sweat pig on the brakes to brake

2) If I push like a sweat pig on the brakes to brake the brake doesn't brake, the chair moves away

So, I'm happy when the game/device pair offers a way to tune the energy neede to use the pedals
 
Heh, thanks for the tips. It makes sense honestly. If you're going to be using that muscle a lot, it helps to work it out outside of racing. Career drivers have intense physical regiments they need to keep up with to deal with the physical and psychological stresses of being in a cramped, hot racecar for long stints. So doing a couple foot exercises to help with trail braking doesn't sound too unreasonable.
Cheers.
That's very true. It also developes more control without thinking as much. I was far into an online race one time and in 1st place but my foot started twitching uncontrollably because some tiny muscles in there said that was it. No more racing. It was hilarious but soul crushing at the same time. Your seating position plays a part too in making sure you are doing things ergonomically and taking advantage of your body.

I hope they never make a racing sim where you have to work your character out and get skill attribute points based on mini games. I'm looking at YOU EA! 🧐
 
It can't do 10 of anything. You're still asking for more work than it can do. I imagine the steering would be super direct too leaving no room for small corrections mid corner.
Sensitivity in gt is just a damper effect. In gt sport it was reversed so 1 was least amount of damping, in gt7 10 is least amount of damping.

With so little ffb strength in g29 wheel it needs as little damping as possible to feel any sort of subtlety in the feedback.
 
Thought i'd pull out the wheel for the current TT for two reasons. 1) I cannot get used to shifting with a controller and find it way easier with a wheel and at NGP it is more beneficial than most tracks to shift, particularly for the first right hander in sector 2. 2) The car loses it's rear end very easily so shifting to 3rd early should really help exits.

So I ran about 25 laps, worked my way down to 15.5 but I was only completing one in 3 laps, binning it more than half the time. Pick up my controller, running sub 15's pretty regularly (4 laps from 5) with a best of 14.1 and optimal 13.5.

I simply cannot get anywhere NEAR my consistency or pace on a wheel. Not even close.
 
Thought i'd pull out the wheel for the current TT for two reasons. 1) I cannot get used to shifting with a controller and find it way easier with a wheel and at NGP it is more beneficial than most tracks to shift, particularly for the first right hander in sector 2. 2) The car loses it's rear end very easily so shifting to 3rd early should really help exits.

So I ran about 25 laps, worked my way down to 15.5 but I was only completing one in 3 laps, binning it more than half the time. Pick up my controller, running sub 15's pretty regularly (4 laps from 5) with a best of 14.1 and optimal 13.5.

I simply cannot get anywhere NEAR my consistency or pace on a wheel. Not even close.
That's really interesting - I'm the complete opposite. I wonder if you're particularly dextrous? I'm awful with my hands (just ask my wife) and I can barely write legibly. Not sure how to measure my foot control... I don't stub my toes very often?
 
Back