Dont Redline Your Cars.

  • Thread starter GT Tester
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I am pretty sure there is no engine refresh guys.. there is a chassi refresh for old cars which makes the chassi as stiff as it was when the car was new. The little "179PS-->179PS" you see, or whatever number it may be, shows up on every tuning option available. When you put in racing shocks.. 179PS-->179PS, when you do NA Tune.. 179PS-->204PS or whatever it may be. my point is that it always shows up... regardless of whether you are actually doing anything to your engine or not, i believe just as a convenience so you can see what's goin on with your engine at the current time. And... yes i do have the game so i'm not just making this up :sly: later-
 
That may be, but you still didn't disprove anything. Try it on a WORN OUT used car and see what happens. Test it. Don't just say I'm wrong, prove I'm wrong. :)
 
Somebody should buy one car over with adequate power, lets say 250+hp. Drive the car bounce it off redline quite a bit drive into 5th gear speeds and downshift quickly to 2nd or 1st gear, go above and beyond the rev if that will make a difference, I doubt it makes any more than bouncing it off the limiter but it may be worth a try! And post back with some results it'll take what 10 minutes of your time!
 
Yesterdaylight is more than likely correct. That "refresh" option would be a frame (and maybe a body) refresh plan, but since the horsepower never increases with it, it obviously doesn't affect the engine.

Too bad because the ability to rebuild your engine could have added a lot to the game's realism.
 
Have you guys noticed how much doing a Chasis refresh improves the car? I've been addicted to Buying Mercury Cougars 67? I have 3 of them in the game allready : ). Well I was driving one around the ring all stock except 6 speed gearbox an LSD and of course the N2 tires but at high speed she was a bit wobbly, alot actually, just exactly like an old muscle car should be with it's 40 year old worn out perished rubbers. So a bit later on I bought a green one and it was such a hot looking machine that I decided to do a chasis refresh on it, put in the same gear box and LSD as the other one I had and took it for a drive and it was sooooooo nice. Much improved just like it should be, I was actually laping not much slower than a new modern Muscle car, like the Commdore SS or GT Falcon and apart from a bit more body roll it was similar to drive. Well worth my 50,000 credits. I dont really want to ruin my nice green machine just to test out the engine wear/refresh theory but I'll see what I can do with the other one
 
Ruin one of the machines pleeease! Just take out the memory card so you dont have it saved, therefore nothing will be wrecked 👍 Oh well let us know what you find out!
 
On-topic:
Does it help when I perform a chassis refresh immediately in a car that I bought in the used car lot?

Off-topic:
Hiro ang pangit mo!!!
 
When i tuned a RX7 in GT3 the first time I got 685 bhp.

Second time around again RX7 got 701 bhp.

If you drive correctly you get more pony's
 
Liquid Li0n
Nice tips I found here. And I noticed it my self by the way.
Maybe it sounds stupid but in GT3 I have 2 the same Subaru's.(Impreza WRX STi Sedan) The one with +2000 on it and the other with less and its true they are both fully tuned and the one has 550HP and the other one has 520 or so I thought. It's strange. I can't bring them up to the same HP.
Click to expand...

Something I did notice in GT3 was that when buying a new car the actual HP of the purchased car would differ from the listed HP by a couple percent either way. I think this was done to reflect the fact that not all cars are created equal, even on a production line.
 
i don't have enough money to test out the theory right now :( i have a ton of cars but no money :crazy: so i wont be able to do the chassi refresh. maybe this weekend i can scrounge some money to do it. later-
 
yesterdaylight
i don't have enough money to test out the theory right now :( i have a ton of cars but no money :crazy: so i wont be able to do the chassi refresh. maybe this weekend i can scrounge some money to do it. later-
Click to expand...

Take out your memory card and sell all the cars you need to in order to get the money. Then go wear out the car and buy the chassis refresh. Press Reset on the Playstation 2 Console.
 
I have 180,000,000. Easy enough to replenish at 27,000,000 for about 15 minutes racing, so I'll buy two identical cars. Oil change them and run one on auto and one on manual (so I can seriously over-rev it). One lap of the Test Course flat out in a lower gear should do the trick... I hope,
 
RogsR34UK
I have 180,000,000. Easy enough to replenish at 27,000,000 for about 15 minutes racing, so I'll buy two identical cars. Oil change them and run one on auto and one on manual (so I can seriously over-rev it). One lap of the Test Course flat out in a lower gear should do the trick... I hope,
Click to expand...

Just be careful not to fall asleep. :lol:
 
I'll make sure that it is a fast car and that I drop a couple of gears in one of them. Maybe the '05 Ford GT (I want one anyway so I can be "gentle" with one) and try to destroy the other. At least the laps should be relatively fast.
 
quick question.

can you refresh the oil during a championship? ie after each race or is it only in the auto shop once your finished the series?

wont be happy if you cant during!! as if you would race on the same oil in the last 10 lap race of a 10 race series! also when the ai doesnt suffer the same wear you have to allow for it at the start. (thats how it is in GT3)
 
There is a "Stop" button which temporarily exits you from the series. I suspect that the only option you have in the "outside world" is GT Auto. I was unable to get to my Home garage, or any other hall. I'll give it a try tonight and see if that is the case. I can use the Ford GT on the Champinship Series in the American Hall and will try the "Stop" button after the first race and see where I can go.
 
Here's some low-down.
In GT3 there APPEARED to be a "break-in" period...i.e.: drive 50 miles or so and it would register a few more horsepower in the garage listing.
BUT...somebody gave an RX-7 as an example where two different hp ratings were achieved, but in GT3 there were TWO versions of the FD RX-7 which registered different power ratings when tuned identically (the last NorAmer car from '96 and the JDM '98).
It's hard to tell just exactly how the game calculates this when you notice a horsepower change, but I always felt it was neat underlying feature.

If you aren't redlining, you aren't really using all the power anyway. So just redline the whole time and eventually, it will feel like you're not.
I think it's stupid not to redline...unless you wanna finish last.
I'll be up at the front if you wanna argue about it.
 
DevilGTx
If you aren't redlining, you aren't really using all the power anyway. So just redline the whole time and eventually, it will feel like you're not.
I think it's stupid not to redline...unless you wanna finish last.
I'll be up at the front if you wanna argue about it.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure when people are saying "redlining" they mean having the rpms bounce off the rev limiter, like when you forget to shift., Or hold the gas at the start line. that is not the fastest way to get around a track.

When people say :redlining" they are not refuring to running the rpms up to just under the rev limiter before shifting. In most cars that is the best way to get good acceleration (In GT3 at least). That should not damage cars as in real life you can drive to redline anytime you want and the engine will be fine (if in good overall condition). The manufacturers set redline conservatively (sp?).
 
I almost always redline NAs, in Prologue I couldn't drive the Integra Type R without redlining it 1000 rpm over the red zone. Same with the S2000 and RX8.

i didn't quite get it, you lose HP only because of bouncing off the rev limiter or you also lose if you redline it ...say 60-70% up the red zone?
Sorry if this is to complicated, but in my opinion it's very interesting :)

EDIT: Cross post :yuck: :yuck:
 
DevilGTx
Here's some low-down.
In GT3 there APPEARED to be a "break-in" period...
Click to expand...

Well said, DevilGTx! If the people that keep asking/wondering why you have different values of HP for the same vehicle (in GT3) would actually bother to check the link that I provided in one of my previous posts in THIS thread (and which I am providing again: Everything you always wanted to know about HP, break in, and oil changes) maybe we wouldn't have so many posts with "people asking/wondering why you have different values of HP for the same vehicle" :D

So, make yourself and everybody else a favor, and read that thread... it's very informative and answers all your possible questions about HP loss/gain in GT3. And no, I am not trying to make people read that because I wrote it and I want hits... In fact I am giving credit to the author (thing that I should have done in my other post too, I just forgot): BadBatsuMaru. 👍

The Wizard.
 
There you go, folks.
THE WIZARD!
(poof! smoke)
Hey, w-where'd he go?

There are really too many factors that go into the horsepower of an individual car in GT3 to determine whether or not the game is not allowing max hp.
But also, think about this :
When you change any gears in any car (even in real-life), those differences will be reflected in the measurement of torque at a certain rpm. GT3 never lists actual torque for your car...only the manufacturer's/stock rating.
If you tune 2 cars identically, but with different gearboxes, they will definitely perform differently but not necessarily better or faster than the other. There is no way to find the NUMBERS that prove the difference.

I have many cars in my GT3 garage that are the same model as another car and have the same hp rating -- one with 400 miles and one with 4800 miles (example : prototype Lancer Rally Car). One is set-up for the rallies and the other I refer to as my "tarmac special." Both with identical HP and engine tuning.

If you really want to understand how to manage torque, do a lot of drag-racing trials in GT3 while experimenting with different gearboxes and ratios.
Also, do some drag-racing in real-life.
Experience counts.

(EDIT)
Horsepower = measure of the engine's capability to produce power
Torque = measure of rotational force (i.e. : the amount of force a car exerts against the ground through the wheels), can also be measured in newton/meters or kilowatts.
Basically, what I mean is, the HP rating really isn't THE dermining factor for how fast a certain car is.
 
about that drag racing in real life, Sounds fun but if the police will stop me I tell them it was your idea and you have to pay the fine. :)
 
Not meaning to make a party of me and DevilGTx against everybody else here ;) but I have to agree with him on this one too. HP is not the main thing to judge a vehicle by, if taken individually. There are way too many aspects that influence a vehicle top speed, acceleration, cornering, etc. such as aerodynamics of the vehicle, weight, torque, balance, aspect ratio... One important thing that should be mentioned when talking about horsepower is the power to weight ratio of the vehicle.

If two vehicles have the same amount of power, but one weighs 10 times more than the other, well, I bet you all can figure out which vehicle manages that horsepower better :D In other words (in many istances, but not always) for the same amount of power, a lighter vehicle is preferred.

Now, granted that all these aspects influence a vehicle, and horsepower is not the only aspect that's important, if you have the same exact vehicle, same weight and everything, in 99% of the cases the one with more horsepower will be better than the other one.

@ Liquid Li0n: he said: "do a lot of drag-racing trials in GT3" not "do a lot of drag-racing trials in real life" :sly:

EDIT: Also, for a given vehicle (all other aspects fixed) what determines its acceleration and top speed is the gear ratios. So, DevilGTx, that's probably/most likely why the same two vehicles, with the same amount of horsepower, if set with different gear ratios can outperform each others in term of better acceleration (in one case) or better top speed (in the other case).

The Wizard.
 
Liquid Lion...
I meant drag racing at your local strip, in your own car, perfectly legal.
I live in Dayton (you know, Wright Bros., Chevy trucks, and, uh well, semi-trucks)
The place to go 'round here is Kil-Kare Raceway in Xenia.
(Do a little research on Xenia, Ohio...check out their tornado records)
During season, I go and watch every Thursday night, racing my (our) own cars 4 or 5 times a year. I currently own 2 vehicles which cannot race however...so it will be just the Cavy for a while.
$5 to get in and watch
$15 to race ANY appropriate car...street legal or not
I have thousands of pix and vids.
In my head or more precisely on a calculator I sometimes bring, I can usually "predict" just about any car's given weight AND power.
I do this by applying mathematical formulas I've come to understand because of Gran Turismo, and by being able to remember relevant numbers about almost any car...learned from internet, magazines, and...Gran Turismo.
I'm not lying.

Somebody please, PLEASE, back me up here.
Here's a look at the grid from October 28.
(EDIT) See those 2 big Fords waiting to go next on the left...they're faster in a drag than ANY Honda there that day. HAH! There's a VTEC Acura behind him!
 

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DevilGTx
Liquid Lion...

Somebody please, PLEASE, back me up here.
Here's a look at the grid from October 28.
(EDIT) See those 2 big Fords waiting to go next on the left...they're faster in a drag than ANY Honda there that day. HAH! There's a VTEC Acura behind him!
Click to expand...

Back you up about what? I go to the drags in my 2 cars all the time. It's fun. Power to weight is important. Gearing is important. Traction is important. What else do you want to know? Hope that helped. :D
 
Well I got a couple of Ford GT '05 cars and put a race gearbox in one and lowered the gearing and drove about 40 Km with the rev counter going from the start of the redline to the rev limiter constantly. (I was travelling at about 200 mph so it didn't take too long). End result was identical HP between the untouched car and the one that had been redlined for 40 Km (25 miles).

Tlaking of horsepower I bought a low mileage (10km) BMW M Coupe and eventually bought one in a colour I prefered with a good few miles "under its belt". The high mileage had less HP than the low mileage one so at least they have that sorted in the used car lots.
 

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