Drag tuning basics
- Thread starter Michael xd
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mafia_boy
(Banned)
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- GTP_Mafiaboy
I know, but just the fact that he is beeing molested by you guys makes me happy, because he run his mouth to much. And as far as i know, you like to crush people like him.
oh yeah we do tell him to be on in 6 hrs!
You're going to be 6hrs too late bro. Tell the dude to be on in 20 minutes and I'll have Cherry Ripe (that's my Veyron's name
) send his Veyron to a sweet burning hell full of ownage. 
I just told him to add you. But nevermind, some times i feel like a hooker, not that i sell myself, but i sell information, haha
No, that makes you a pimp then because the information is the hooker.
Onboy123
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- Onboy123
Onboy123
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TT3AZ
(Banned)
- 1,566
- tt3_az
- TT3AZ
I have done som testing and tuning for the past month, and i have come up with basic drag settings that works quite well, and are commonly used. From sources like gtplanet, different forums etc, i have come up with this:
*Suspension*
RWD
Height: F (all way down), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (all way down), R (all way down)
Extension: F (1), R (10)
Compression: F (10), R (1)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Note: On some cars you get better launch if you make front spring rate as stiff as possible. Test and experiment..
AWD (use with 50/50 torque split)
Height: F (20), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (50% of max rate), R (75% of max rate)
Extension: F (10), R (1)
Compression: F (1), R (10)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)
AWD (use with 40/60 or similar)
Height: F (20), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (stiff as possible), R (75% of max rate)
Extension: F (10), R (1)
Compression: F (1), R (10)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Note: On my awd cars that i use 40/60 torque split, i run max spring rate in the front, it helps with the takeof. Experiment as you wish...
FWD
Height: F (0), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (50%), R (stiff as possible)
Extension: F (10), R (1)
Compression: F (1), R (10)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)
*Drivetrain*
LSD can be set to 60-60-5, it works quite well on both rwd and awd cars. Fwd cars i don not know. Torque Split for awd cars can be set to 50/50 or 40/60 for better launch. On lower hp cars, i set it like 20/80, because i want a little bit wheelspin so i dont bogg down when launching, and i dont want to make 1st gear shorter either.
*Transmission*
This is complex according to me, but my basic rule is that i set 1st gear so when i launch, and if the wheels are spinning, i never redline. If the revlimiter jumps up and down while launching, then your 1st gear is to short, that is my basic rule. On awd cars, i set the 1st gear so when i launch, i accelerate from 0 to what ever with just a little bit wheelspin, hardly noticed though. You got to have a good balance, short gear enough to get good acceleration, and not bogg down when launching, but long gear enough to not spin your tires to much. Note, on lower hp awd cars, you can either make 1st gear shorter so you dont bogg down, or you could do the tourque split trick, explained above. You could also ask fellow tuners which speed you should hit in 1st gear for that specific car, so you get a hint on how long/short the gear should be.
Last gear, usually 6th, i make it long/short enough, so when i exit the ssr7 tunnel im at redline, or im on a suitable top speed. This can be hard to determine though. The basic rule is, that the shorter gears, the faster acceleration. It isnt uncommon that the top tuners exit the tunnel in a lower speed (due to shorter gears), but they come there alot faster. That is what is important. Ask around for your specific car, and you get a hint on a suitable top speed you should hit.
The gears between, that is 2nd to 5th gear, you could adjust them, so when you are changing gears, you dont get any delay in acceleration. For example, if the 2nd gear is to short compared to 3rd gear, you will get an interrupt in acceleration when changing gears. Soulution? Well, make 2nd gear a little bit longer, or make 3rd gear a little bit shorter. As told before, tune your gears, so when you are changing gears you get equal rpm drops. This is a good rule, all though, i make my 2nd gear very close to 1st gear, because i want good acceleration and jump of the line in the beggining.
I also try to use all gears, my theory is that the more gears you use, the faster acceleration you get. Even on indy 1/4 mile, i try to use as many gears as possible. Some times, you need to do the transmission trick, so you could use all gears. This is how i do, to be able to change gears more flexible:
1. Reset transmission
2. Top speed all way to the left (eg. 220 km/h)
3. Final gear all way to the right (5.000)
4. Top speed one klick to right (230)
5. Top speed one klick to left again (220)
6. Adjust final gear
Now you can have a verry close geared gearbox, still beeing able to have a long first gear.
*Body/Chassi*
For high power rwd cars, you could use ballast position 50, and 0 weight. That helps you gain a little bit of traction. On awd cars, i dont use ballast, and on fwd cars, i dont know.
On my drag cars i use 0 aerodynamics what so ever, that is no rear wing, no body kit, diffusers etc. I know the rear wing decreases the top speed, but i have been told lately that front lips, rear diffusers etc. affects the acceleration as well. So no fancy bodykits for me
Okay, this is my basic drag tuning advice, feel free to comment and discuss.
*Suspension*
RWD
Height: F (all way down), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (all way down), R (all way down)
Extension: F (1), R (10)
Compression: F (10), R (1)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Note: On some cars you get better launch if you make front spring rate as stiff as possible. Test and experiment..
AWD (use with 50/50 torque split)
Height: F (20), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (50% of max rate), R (75% of max rate)
Extension: F (10), R (1)
Compression: F (1), R (10)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)
AWD (use with 40/60 or similar)
Height: F (20), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (stiff as possible), R (75% of max rate)
Extension: F (10), R (1)
Compression: F (1), R (10)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Note: On my awd cars that i use 40/60 torque split, i run max spring rate in the front, it helps with the takeof. Experiment as you wish...
FWD
Height: F (0), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (50%), R (stiff as possible)
Extension: F (10), R (1)
Compression: F (1), R (10)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)
*Drivetrain*
LSD can be set to 60-60-5, it works quite well on both rwd and awd cars. Fwd cars i don not know. Torque Split for awd cars can be set to 50/50 or 40/60 for better launch. On lower hp cars, i set it like 20/80, because i want a little bit wheelspin so i dont bogg down when launching, and i dont want to make 1st gear shorter either
.*Transmission*
This is complex according to me, but my basic rule is that i set 1st gear so when i launch, and if the wheels are spinning, i never redline. If the revlimiter jumps up and down while launching, then your 1st gear is to short, that is my basic rule. On awd cars, i set the 1st gear so when i launch, i accelerate from 0 to what ever with just a little bit wheelspin, hardly noticed though. You got to have a good balance, short gear enough to get good acceleration, and not bogg down when launching, but long gear enough to not spin your tires to much. Note, on lower hp awd cars, you can either make 1st gear shorter so you dont bogg down, or you could do the tourque split trick, explained above. You could also ask fellow tuners which speed you should hit in 1st gear for that specific car, so you get a hint on how long/short the gear should be.
Last gear, usually 6th, i make it long/short enough, so when i exit the ssr7 tunnel im at redline, or im on a suitable top speed
. This can be hard to determine though. The basic rule is, that the shorter gears, the faster acceleration. It isnt uncommon that the top tuners exit the tunnel in a lower speed (due to shorter gears), but they come there alot faster. That is what is important. Ask around for your specific car, and you get a hint on a suitable top speed you should hit. The gears between, that is 2nd to 5th gear, you could adjust them, so when you are changing gears, you dont get any delay in acceleration. For example, if the 2nd gear is to short compared to 3rd gear, you will get an interrupt in acceleration when changing gears. Soulution? Well, make 2nd gear a little bit longer, or make 3rd gear a little bit shorter. As told before, tune your gears, so when you are changing gears you get equal rpm drops. This is a good rule, all though, i make my 2nd gear very close to 1st gear, because i want good acceleration and jump of the line in the beggining.
I also try to use all gears, my theory is that the more gears you use, the faster acceleration you get. Even on indy 1/4 mile, i try to use as many gears as possible. Some times, you need to do the transmission trick, so you could use all gears. This is how i do, to be able to change gears more flexible:
1. Reset transmission
2. Top speed all way to the left (eg. 220 km/h)
3. Final gear all way to the right (5.000)
4. Top speed one klick to right (230)
5. Top speed one klick to left again (220)
6. Adjust final gear
Now you can have a verry close geared gearbox, still beeing able to have a long first gear.
*Body/Chassi*
For high power rwd cars, you could use ballast position 50, and 0 weight. That helps you gain a little bit of traction. On awd cars, i dont use ballast, and on fwd cars, i dont know.
On my drag cars i use 0 aerodynamics what so ever, that is no rear wing, no body kit, diffusers etc. I know the rear wing decreases the top speed, but i have been told lately that front lips, rear diffusers etc. affects the acceleration as well. So no fancy bodykits for me
Okay, this is my basic drag tuning advice, feel free to comment and discuss.
Last edited:
DLR
(Banned)
- 1,589
- Under the Hood
- iWinYouLooz
- PS3>Xbox
I have done som testing and tuning for the past month, and i have come up with basic drag settings that works quite well, and are commonly used. From sources like gtplanet, different forums etc, i have come up with this:
*Suspension*
RWD
Height: F (0), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (all way down), R (all way down)
Extension: F (1), R (10)
Compression: F (10), R (1)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default) - This can be tuned too
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0) - And this...
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0) - And possibly this...
AWD (use with 50/50 torque split) - I have done many trials of this and I know for a fact 50/50 isn't the best way to split your power. Try giving the rear wheels a bit more
Height: F (10), R (all way up)
Spring Rate: F (50% of max rate), R (75% of max rate)
Extension: F (10), R (1)
Compression: F (1), R (10)
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default)
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0)
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0)
FWD
Height: F (??), R (??)
Spring Rate: F (??), R (??)
Extension: F (??), R (??)
Compression: F (??), R (??)
Anti Roll: F (??), R (??)
Camber: F (??), R (??)
Toe: F (??), R (??)
*Drivetrain*
LSD can be set to 60-60-5, it works quite well on both rwd and awd cars. Fwd cars i don not know. Torque Split for awd cars can be set to 50/50, i have found that prety good for reduced wheelspin. On lower hp cars, i set it like 20/80, because i want a little bit wheelspin so i dont bogg down when launching, and i dont want to make 1st gear shorter either
*Transmission*
This is complex according to me, but my basic rule is that i set 1st gear so when i launch, and if the wheels are spinning, i never redline. If the revlimiter jumps up and down while launching, then your 1st gear is to short, that is my basic rule. On awd cars, i set the 1st gear so when i launch, i accelerate from 0 to what ever with just a little bit wheelspin, hardly noticed though. You got to have a good balance, short gear enough to get good acceleration, and not bogg down when launching, but long gear enough to not spin your tires to much. Note, on lower hp awd cars, you can either make 1st gear shorter so you dont bogg down, or you could do the tourque split trick, explained above.
Last gear, usually 6th, i make it long/short enough, so when i exit the ssr7 tunnel im at redline, or im on a suitable top speed
My previous advice that you should not follow, was that you should exit the tunnel at peak hp rpm. This is good for ultimate top speed on a certain distance, but you come there much slower, due to longer gears, specially if the hp peaks on a low rpm, like 4000 rpm. On some car i had to decrease the top speed a couple of mph, just to be competitive enough. The acceleration and the launch in the beginning is crucial, and hence verry important. I have raced cars that exit the tunnel on much lower speed than me, but due to their fast acceleration, i couldnt keep up with them.
The gears between, that is 2nd to 5th gear, you could adjust them, so when you are changing gears, you dont get any delay in acceleration. For example, if the 2nd gear is to short compared to 3rd gear, you will get an interrupt in acceleration when changing gears. Soulution? Well, make 2nd gear a little bit longer, or make 3rd gear a little bit shorter. As told before, tune your gears, so when you are changing gears you get equal rpm drops. This is a good rule, all though, i make my 2nd gear very close to 1st gear, because i want good acceleration and jump of the line in the beggining.
*Body/Chassi*
For high power rwd cars, you could use ballast position 50, and 0 weight. That helps you gain a little bit of traction. On awd cars, i dont use ballast, and on fwd cars, i dont know.
On my drag cars i use 0 aerodynamics what so ever, that is no rear wing, no body kit, diffusers etc. I know the rear wing decreases the top speed, but i have been told lately that front lips, rear diffusers etc. affects the acceleration as well. So no fancy bodykits for me
*Fun facts*
On certain cars, you could gain a bit of top speed and acceleration by making the front a little bit higher. I have tested that on several cars, and i exit the tunnel 1-2km/h faster. My trick is to make the front a little bit higher, so i hit a certain top speed a little bit faster, then i shorten my gears, so i hit the previous top speed again. By doing this, i get better acceleration all the way, and still beeing able to hit a decent top speed. Some people do the extreme, that is making the front all way up, and the rear all way down, but that could hurt the launch as well...
Okay, this is my basic drag tuning advice, feel free to comment and discuss.
Good advice overall 👍
TT3AZ
(Banned)
- 1,566
- tt3_az
- TT3AZ
Thanks, hope this will enlighten some of the new draggers..
Anti Roll: F (default), R (default) - This can be tuned too - Well, i dont know how this affects the launch, so i keept that out
Camber: F (0.0), R (0.0) - And this... - According to different sources, camber on front and rear wheels could affect the launch. I havent tested, so i dont know.....feel free to give advice
Toe: F (0.0), R (0.0) - And possibly this... - Same with this, toe could affect the launch, but i havent tested.
AWD (use with 50/50 torque split) - I have done many trials of this and I know for a fact 50/50 isn't the best way to split your power. Try giving the rear wheels a bit more - Well, many draggers run like 35/65 or 40/60, but i dont know if my suspension setup is ultimate for those settings, since more power would be put to rear wheels.
Last edited:
TT3AZ
(Banned)
- 1,566
- tt3_az
- TT3AZ
I think that quite good, when i run GMEs or other team members cars, there are slot more then 2 car lenghts between usLiek me!noob question inbound, is 2 car lengths a lot? Cuz D2's Veyron beat mine by 2 car lengths and I don't know whether I should be happy or in tears
Then again, what is your goal? Have decent drag cars, or ultimate ones that can compete with pros?
Onboy123
Premium
- 8,872
- Hong Kong
- Onboy123
I think that quite good, when i run GMEs or other team members cars, there are slot more then 2 car lenghts between us
Oh, that's nice to know
…as for my goal? Neither, I just wanted to see what Mafs, doc, you, and all the drag racers see in it. But mostly, my goal is just to have fun. Fun = Priority
Winning/amazing performance = Byproduct
- 188
- yumadbroski
i see 3-4 different levels of fast in drag racing
new drag racers - just getting started and really need help
fast - they know a thing or 2 about tuning but need to brush up on some settings
faster - usually the fastest "non team" racers. cars are well tuned and very competitive and can probably beat 80% the people drag racing online
fastest - faster taken to another level because they are part of a team and can accurately tune against teammates to pinpoint exact settings they need to work on
as an individual, it can get frustrating running people in teams because its makes you scratch your head wondering how to make your tune that much faster.
these individuals eventually team up with other people and make their own group
i see so many teams now
new drag racers - just getting started and really need help
fast - they know a thing or 2 about tuning but need to brush up on some settings
faster - usually the fastest "non team" racers. cars are well tuned and very competitive and can probably beat 80% the people drag racing online
fastest - faster taken to another level because they are part of a team and can accurately tune against teammates to pinpoint exact settings they need to work on
as an individual, it can get frustrating running people in teams because its makes you scratch your head wondering how to make your tune that much faster.
these individuals eventually team up with other people and make their own group
i see so many teams now
- 600
- DeolTheBeast
I've been racing against Team Regulator the past few days and have not once had a chance against their GTR's. I only won once against them, and I can't seem to tune my GTR to anywhere near their level.
I am one of those frustrated Fast/Faster players which makes it more annoying
.
- 600
- DeolTheBeast
DLR
(Banned)
- 1,589
- Under the Hood
- iWinYouLooz
- PS3>Xbox
Camber has little to no affect while launching but quite effective in reeling in opponents. Toe just gives the car a bit more grip
Camber is effective on RWD cars but never tried it on AWD cars. As you seen it is probably not that effective.
- 366
- Finland
- Temetias
Okay, I finally got my veyron hit ~430.5kmh at the end of the tunnel and I think my launch is better too. i guess no one can give me tips how to go even faster, but could anyone tell me what's a good way to test my launch alone? it's easy to compare when you have someone race against you but that's not always possible.
TT3AZ
(Banned)
- 1,566
- tt3_az
- TT3AZ
Well, that a good question. Usually i test my launch to se how much i spin, and how fast i accelerate. You can also ask fellow veyron tuners what speed you should hit in 1st gear so you get a hint. On awd cars, i want to accelerate from 0 to what ever without wheelspin, still not bogging down while launching.
dr_slump
Premium
- 7,425
- Switzerland
- the_dr_slump / GTP_dr_slump
- Practice mode (hmm, offline isn't the best place for the Veyron)
- SSR7 night
- Set your minimap to "fixed car", size 1
- Drive slowly to the blue phone stations. (where the start line is)
- You'll see 2 fat black lines on the minimap
- Place the triangle (your car) at the top of the first black line.
- Drag!!!!! (but don't crash!!!)
- complete the lap without getting redflaged.
- save ghost data
Done!!!
Well, I rarely do this (too lazy; off and on differences), but it might help.
EDIT: If you think this method is stupid, keep it for yourself!!!
EDIT2: WOAHHH!! WHAT A VEYRON POST!!!!!
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