Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

[MarcoM]

Race Mode is the default mode Drive Hub is set to & is all we need for our wheels to work. I put the Drive Hub into Play Mode to see what it did & found out that the wheels don't work in that mode. Exactly what Play Mode is will remain a mystery for the present, until such a time as Collective Minds decides to enlighten us; watch this space!




Here's another video from Collective Minds on how to update the firmware.

Thanks for sharing the videos!

Thank you! I live on the East coast which is currently supposed to be the worst place to be. I'm leaving tonight after work to my parents house on the west coast of the state. It's looking bad there as well but for right now it's the lesser of 2 evils. Unfortunately it's starting to be a bit too late to try and leave the state from here. It's about an 8 hour drive under normal conditions but the highways look like parking lots right now.

Just hoping my rig isn't floating down the street when I get back. Lol

Be safe out there. Hope everyone survives! I watched the news last night and it looks really bad. Especially the plundering and theft now going on on some of the isles.

 

[zr1chris]

Thanks for sharing the videos!



Be safe out there. Hope everyone survives! I watched the news last night and it looks really bad. Especially the plundering and theft now going on on some of the isles.

Thanks! Good news is the storm finally seems to be losing some strength.

 

[Jsunnb]

I'm really interested in this to use with my Logitech Driving Force GT & Gran Turismo Sport (when it comes out). But I'm curious, what does the PS4 recognize as being attached?
Also, has anyone used this with the Logitech Driving Force GT yet?

 

[Shinu]

I looked at my inbox and found this email offering 10% off after I bought mine. A little too late

I'm really interested in this to use with my Logitech Driving Force GT & Gran Turismo Sport (when it comes out). But I'm curious, what does the PS4 recognize as being attached?
Also, has anyone used this with the Logitech Driving Force GT yet?

I'm guessing All logitech wheels imitate g29/g920

 

[Dopplegagger]

Ok. I know I botched my email when I ordered the Drive Hub, but seeing that people who ordered theirs after me get tracking numbers has me puzzled why I didn't get one yet? I'm giving them til Monday, then I am going to inquire about my order. I hope things go smoothly. I don't want to be a pain.

Well... I spoke too soon. Much too soon. After I got home from work, a small postal box was sitting on my counter top. It was delivered today! Now I need to retract everything I said in the paragraph above.

If you don't select UPS shipping (and you are in the US) it will be sent to you without a tracking number. Just be patient.

Now I have a bigger problem. I can't get my CSR into PC mode after I connect it to the drive hub. And if I put the wheel into PC mode and then plug it into the drive hub, it becomes unresponsive. Hmmm...


I also have some questions about the Drive Hub that aren't answered in their manual.


First of all, I'm using this on the Xbox One. So far, plug and play ain't happening, but on to the questions...

Is the console supposed to be on while connecting everything?

Do I use the controller to sign in before connecting everything?

How should I get the wheel into PC mode if it can't go into PC mode before being connected to a PC; and will not go into PC mode when it is connected to the drive hub?

Updated the Drive Hubs Firmware... Nothing. It does react to the Fanatec wheel when I put the wheel into the "Controller" USB port. But besides that, I can't get it to work. I'm going to look on he Drive Hub Forums. I remember seeing something about a different Fanatec mode. It was also on the Cronosmax site.

And the forums are not very helpful. It's like nothing but Playstation 4 users tested this. I didn't see anything concerning the Xbox One.

 

[bigdame31]

About 5 days

 

[MarcoM]

Ok. I know I botched my email when I ordered the Drive Hub, but seeing that people who ordered theirs after me get tracking numbers has me puzzled why I didn't get one yet? I'm giving them til Monday, then I am going to inquire about my order. I hope things go smoothly. I don't want to be a pain.

Well... I spoke too soon. Much too soon. After I got home from work, a small postal box was sitting on my counter top. It was delivered today! Now I need to retract everything I said in the paragraph above.

If you don't select UPS shipping (and you are in the US) it will be sent to you without a tracking number. Just be patient.

Now I have a bigger problem. I can't get my CSR into PC mode after I connect it to the drive hub. And if I put the wheel into PC mode and then plug it into the drive hub, it becomes unresponsive. Hmmm...


I also have some questions about the Drive Hub that aren't answered in their manual.


First of all, I'm using this on the Xbox One. So far, plug and play ain't happening, but on to the questions...

Is the console supposed to be on while connecting everything?

Do I use the controller to sign in before connecting everything?

How should I get the wheel into PC mode if it can't go into PC mode before being connected to a PC; and will not go into PC mode when it is connected to the drive hub?

Updated the Drive Hubs Firmware... Nothing. It does react to the Fanatec wheel when I put the wheel into the "Controller" USB port. But besides that, I can't get it to work. I'm going to look on he Drive Hub Forums. I remember seeing something about a different Fanatec mode. It was also on the Cronosmax site.



And the forums are not very helpful. It's like nothing but Playstation 4 users tested this. I didn't see anything concerning the Xbox One.

I thought you have to set the PC mode of the fanatec connected to your pc. It is stored with the unit itself.

 

[zr1chris]

Ok. I know I botched my email when I ordered the Drive Hub, but seeing that people who ordered theirs after me get tracking numbers has me puzzled why I didn't get one yet? I'm giving them til Monday, then I am going to inquire about my order. I hope things go smoothly. I don't want to be a pain.

Well... I spoke too soon. Much too soon. After I got home from work, a small postal box was sitting on my counter top. It was delivered today! Now I need to retract everything I said in the paragraph above.

If you don't select UPS shipping (and you are in the US) it will be sent to you without a tracking number. Just be patient.

Now I have a bigger problem. I can't get my CSR into PC mode after I connect it to the drive hub. And if I put the wheel into PC mode and then plug it into the drive hub, it becomes unresponsive. Hmmm...


I also have some questions about the Drive Hub that aren't answered in their manual.


First of all, I'm using this on the Xbox One. So far, plug and play ain't happening, but on to the questions...

Is the console supposed to be on while connecting everything?

Do I use the controller to sign in before connecting everything?

How should I get the wheel into PC mode if it can't go into PC mode before being connected to a PC; and will not go into PC mode when it is connected to the drive hub?

Updated the Drive Hubs Firmware... Nothing. It does react to the Fanatec wheel when I put the wheel into the "Controller" USB port. But besides that, I can't get it to work. I'm going to look on he Drive Hub Forums. I remember seeing something about a different Fanatec mode. It was also on the Cronosmax site.

And the forums are not very helpful. It's like nothing but Playstation 4 users tested this. I didn't see anything concerning the Xbox One.

I just read that it will work in PS3 mode. Have you tried that?

 

[Dopplegagger]

Yes. PC mode is built in to the CSR. When the wheel base is turned on, it self calibrates by spinning to the left, and then to the right and finally going close to center. When its done, the LED display shows "- - -". That is when it can be put into PC mode.

Now the wheel can only go into PC or PS3 mode if, the USB cable is connected to the wheelbase and the other end connected to something that has a working USB port. One cannot put the wheel into PC mode before connecting it to a PC. I tried connecting the CSR to the XB1 and successfully putting it into PC mode. I tested if the wheel was in PC mode by pressing the tuning button. If I saw "S-1", then the wheel was working normally. When I connected the wheel to the Drive Hub, the LED display on the wheel rim went blank, but it didn't display "S-1" when I pressed the tuning button. That showed me that something wasn't right.

I tried connecting the drive hub before I turned the XB1 on, while it was on, after its on and signed in, at Forza 5's attract mode, and while Forza 5 was paused, but nothing worked. The Drive Hub just continued to show the figure 8, and didn't react to my wheel being connected. The only time the Drive Hub seemed to notice the CSR, was when I connected the wheel to the Drive Hub's "Controller" USB port, not the "Controller/Wheel" USB port it's supposed be connected to. When I did that, the Drive Hub's LED display spelled out "FAnAtEC FAnAtEC C" and then displayed a "0". This lead me to believe the Drive Hub isn't recognizing my wheel when plugged into the "Controller/Wheel" USB port. Or maybe there's something else I need to do in order to make it work with my Fanatec wheel.

It seems that the Drive Hub is natively set to Logitech mode. If there's a way to switch it to Fanatec mode, or to Thrustmaster mode, then Id like to know how. There is nothing in the instructions detailing how to do this, except for "having your wheel in PC mode before connecting the Drive Hub", it may work for a PC only Fanatec wheel but doesn't work for the CSR.

I just read that it will work in PS3 mode. Have you tried that?

Yup. It doesn't display the tuning options and does not respond to any button presses.

 

[MarcoM]

Sorry to hear that Dopplegagger

 

[Dopplegagger]

I'm going to find out what I am doing wrong. I hope I missed something.

I will update after I tried working with CM support on this.

 

[zr1chris]

I'm going to find out what I am doing wrong. I hope I missed something.

I will update after I tried working with CM support on this.

I'm definitely curious to know as I will be using the on the Xbox also. Mine got delayed due to the weather here

 

[VBR]

@Dopplegagger - My Fanatec wheels were in storage for about 2 years before I tried them yesterday. The GT2 seemed to have died because of this, & it did the calibration to the left & got stuck thing. However, after flashing the firmware again it now seems to be working. Similar thing with my CSR which was on day 1 firmware, it wasn't even working properly on PS3 anymore let alone Drive Hub, I had to update the firmware to 756 & now it's fine. Fanatec wheels don't like being stored for long periods of time in my experience. Was your wheel in storage, or has it been in regular use, what firmware is your CSR on? CSR Support - GT2 Support - GT3 RS V2 Support

Turn the XB1 on, sign in, then turn the controller off. Connect everything to the DH first (with the wheel off), then plug the Drive Hub into the console. When Drive Hub is displaying the figure of 8 animation, turn the wheel on. Once your CSR stops calibrating & "- - -" is displayed on the LED read out, hold down the back button until it clicks to centre & the "n" is displayed. The Drive Hub is now in "Fanalogic" mode & you should be good to go.

To get my CSR into PC mode when connected to Drive Hub, I had to press & hold down the back button for a few seconds, you know when it finally goes into that mode as it clicks to center & a lower case letter "n" is displayed on the LED readout (PS3 mode is just "."). If it doesn't work first time, turn the wheel off & try again until it does.

Fanatec wheels are in "Fanalogic" mode on Drive Hub by default, which means they are emulating the Logitech G920 on XB1. If you manage to get your CSR into PC mode, you can always switch the Drive Hub to "Fanatec Native Mode" by holding down the Back & Start buttons on the CSR for a few seconds (see DH manual page 3). When Drive Hub's readout displays a flashing "F", it's indicating that it's now in FN mode (it will be using Fanatec drivers). To switch back to "Fanalogic" mode, just do the same thing.

I couldn't get my CSR wheel into PS3 mode with Drive Hub at all, actually I think it's impossible because you have to be in PC mode before setting it to PS3 mode, by which time it's too late as Drive Hub has already registered it as being in PC mode. If you try to put it into PS3 mode before PC mode, the wheel will seriously freak out! If you try to put the CSR into PS3 mode once it's in PC mode & already registered with Drive Hub, you'll get both modes bugging out on the CSR display as "n." & it won't work. Ironically, you are already kind of in PS3 mode when in PC mode on a CSR & connected to Drive Hub as it's in "Fanalogic" mode by default which emulates Logitech drivers, but better!

I'm planning on thoroughly testing the Fanatec wheels with DH today at some point, as yesterday was mainly taken up with trying to fix the wheels themselves. After that I'm going to write up a full review. By the way, I tested the G25 on XB1 in P CARS yesterday & it worked just fine. Fanatec wheels are more complicated that Logitech wheels huh!

Hope that helps. 👍

 

[zr1chris]

Thanks VBR for the write-up! I already have my PWTS on the latest firmware. Just did it a couple weeks ago after it being stored for about 3-4 years. No issues at all with the wheel though. I've been using it on PCars since then. Hopefully I won't run into issues with the drivehub. Your post definitely has me feeling a bit more confident though.

 

[VBR]

Thanks VBR for the write-up! I already have my PWTS on the latest firmware. Just did it a couple weeks ago after it being stored for about 3-4 years. No issues at all with the wheel though. I've been using it on PCars since then. Hopefully I won't run into issues with the drivehub. Your post definitely has me feeling a bit more confident though.

I got my Drive Hub on Wednesday, & have been testing it everyday since then. I found that everytime I've had an issue it turns out to be not with the Drive Hub itself but with a wheel, or an ingame setting, or with me just being a plonker by messing something up! There's always gonna be a degree of teething problems & trouble shooting with new tech, the thing is not to jump to conclusions but to find the root cause of the issue. And if there are any issues with Drive Hub, tech support will be all over it in an instant.

 

[Dopplegagger]

I'm starting to see the root cause of my problems is me. Or am I the common denominator? Either way, if I didn't put icing on the cake before baking it, I'd be knee deep in moist delicious cake. Instead I got to scrub the pans and start again.

If nothing else, this will help future buyers trouble shoot their setup issues. A good thing.

 

[VBR]

I'm starting to see the root cause of my problems is me. Or am I the common denominator? Either way, if I didn't put icing on the cake before baking it, I'd be knee deep in moist delicious cake. Instead I got to scrub the pans and start again.

If nothing else, this will help future buyers trouble shoot their setup issues. A good thing.

Did you get it working then?

 

[Dopplegagger]

No, not yet. I'm still at work. It's just one of those moments when you get a suggestion that makes a lot of sense. I'm feeling confident about how to fix the wheel. And I just don't want to come across as negative, or hostile towards anyone, especially the Cronos team. They are being real helpful with this.

 

[bigdame31]

Please keep us up to date!

Works great!! Get it

GIVEME10 is a working promo code I found... 10% off

Any updates on when the shipment is coming in? Was due in late August but apparently that's not going to happen.

sad I didn't get to use this!!

I'm really interested in this to use with my Logitech Driving Force GT & Gran Turismo Sport (when it comes out). But I'm curious, what does the PS4 recognize as being attached?
Also, has anyone used this with the Logitech Driving Force GT yet?

The controller.....it works great I use the DFGT

I looked at my inbox and found this email offering 10% off after I bought mine. A little too late

I'm guessing All logitech wheels imitate g29/g920

Lol something like that happened to me too

 

[Dopplegagger]

@VBR

I'm using firmware 737. That may be the problem. Trying to update now...

YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING ME! Fanatec removed the non Windows 10 version of 756.

I only have Windows 7 on this laptop. Great!

 

[ShadowBlue]

Older Win
https://www.fanatec.com/download/CSR 756.zip?utm_medium=FAP+Banner&utm_source=gtplanet&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet


Win10
https://www.fanatec.com/download/CSR 756 Win10.zip?utm_medium=FAP+Banner&utm_source=gtplanet&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet

 

[VBR]

@VBR

I'm using firmware 737. That may be the problem. Trying to update now...

YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING ME! Fanatec removed the non Windows 10 version of 756.

I only have Windows 7 on this laptop. Great!

I have it! Here's a link to a safe download for you via We Transfer; https://wetransfer.com/downloads/215efd02328f3f2304799794edfe92e720170910115003/55c360

The Win 10 version wasn't compatible with my PC either.

 

[Dopplegagger]

THANK YOU SO MUCH VBR, AND SHADOW BLUE!

Yes, I was shouting. Sorry.

I'm still working on this. Every new step has created new obstacles, and I find myself having to fix them just to make progress. I will update when I am finished with the latest can of worms that just opened. LOL. I can assure you, all my problems have nothing to do with the Drive Hub. In fact, it's been sitting next to me all wile I, defrag my laptop, update the laptop's USB drivers, remove spyware and bloatware... Sigh.

TLDR; I have PC issues to deal with. Will update after everything is working.

 

[Northstar]

Does this work for using a DFGT on the XB1?

It seems like it will, but I want to make sure before I spend the money.

 

[VBR]

THANK YOU SO MUCH VBR, AND SHADOW BLUE!

Yes, I was shouting. Sorry.

I'm still working on this. Every new step has created new obstacles, and I find myself having to fix them just to make progress. I will update when I am finished with the latest can of worms that just opened. LOL. I can assure you, all my problems have nothing to do with the Drive Hub. In fact, it's been sitting next to me all wile I, defrag my laptop, update the laptop's USB drivers, remove spyware and bloatware... Sigh.

TLDR; I have PC issues to deal with. Will update after everything is working.

You're welcome mate. By the way, the free version of Malwarebytes is exceptionally good at removing any untoward programs, & is used by other big companies when their products fail. I have it myself & thoroughly recommend it. Here's a link to their site if you're interested; https://www.malwarebytes.com/ C Cleaner free version is great too.

In other news my GT2 is officially dead. Re-flashing the firmware only brought it back to life for a few minutes. Also, my CSR is losing it's calibration & going off center. Nothing at all to do with Drive Hub, that's worked flawlessly in every test I've performed so far. Will probably have to go back to my G29 now.

 

[zr1chris]

You're welcome mate. By the way, the free version of Malwarebytes is exceptionally good at removing any untoward programs, & is used by other big companies when their products fail. I have it myself & thoroughly recommend it. Here's a link to their site if you're interested; https://www.malwarebytes.com/ C Cleaner free version is great too.

In other news my GT2 is officially dead. Re-flashing the firmware only brought it back to life for a few minutes. Also, my CSR is losing it's calibration & going off center. Nothing at all to do with Drive Hub, that's worked flawlessly in every test I've performed so far. Will probably have to go back to my G29 now.

Sorry to hear about your Fanatec wheels. Kinda strange they both had issues. Did you store them in a bad place? Excessive heat or moisture? Dust?

 

[VBR]

Sorry to hear about your Fanatec wheels. Kinda strange they both had issues. Did you store them in a bad place? Excessive heat or moisture? Dust?

Probably just too cold. I think the CSR had the centering problem for a while, but the GT2 was fine. Been advised to check the capacitors, as they can fail in cold conditions.

 

[zr1chris]

Probably just too cold. I think the CSR had the centering problem for a while, but the GT2 was fine. Been advised to check the capacitors, as they can fail in cold conditions.

I figured it had to be something since I'm sure my PWTS is older and been stored away for around the same time, maybe longer and my wheel is working flawlessly just as it did before I put it away.

Good luck with it. I hope you fix it.

 

[gt_fan]

Probably just too cold. I think the CSR had the centering problem for a while, but the GT2 was fine. Been advised to check the capacitors, as they can fail in cold conditions.

What is wrong with your GT2? If it's a centering problem like mine, it can be fixed with a little switch - pm if you want more info. (not a good looking fix but it works for me)

 

[Dopplegagger]

Does this work for using a DFGT on the XB1?

It seems like it will, but I want to make sure before I spend the money.

Yes. It's one of the Logitech wheels listed.

http://shop.cronusmax.com/drivehub.html

And Logitech wheels should be Plug and Play. So you shouldn't have to worry about updating firmware on the wheel or having supported firmware on your wheel.