Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

  • Thread starter VBR
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Dopplegagger
Yes. It's one of the Logitech wheels listed.

http://shop.cronusmax.com/drivehub.html

And Logitech wheels should be Plug and Play. So you shouldn't have to worry about updating firmware on the wheel or having supported firmware on your wheel. :)
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Thanks, I thought that was the case but wasn't 100% sure.

I'll wait to see how PC2 performs on the XB1 first and if it does well I'll give this a shot. And if this works well I'll probably buy a Playseat Challenge to make a semi-decent race setup until I can afford a better wheel.
 
BE ADVISED. A cheap USB cable will not allow the Drive Hub to work!

My entire problem was a USB 1.0 type B cable I was using to connect the controller to the Drive Hub. I switched it for the cable that came with my play and charge kit, and it's working. After updating the driver on the Laptop, installing firmware 756 and spending 2 hours trying to get the CSR into PC mode, I change the controllers cable, and it works.

I am a dummy. :lol:
 
So I finally got around to testing the Drive Hub on PS4, using my Fanatec CSW V2. I first updated the firmware on the Drive Hub. But for some reason, by PS4 controller keeps getting turned on, when the Drive Hub is connected to the PS4, which I believe is making my Fanatec not work. I can move around in the menus with the controller, but the wheel is doing nothing. If I shut the controller, and then power off/on my CSW. It'll go into PC mode, but the DH will say 0, and then a few seconds later, the PS4 controller turns back on. I'm also using firmware 299 on my Fanatec Wheel, which from what I read, didn't work with the CronusMax Plus.

I'll try some different firmware for the wheel, but I'm curious on why the PS4 controller is turning on, when I thought it wasn't supposed to. Like how it worked on the CronusMax Plus.

Also, I tried holding the P1 button down, while plugging in the USB into the PS4, but yet I still can't get it into race mode.

Edit: YES, I GOT IT TO FINALLY WORK!!! Sorry for the yelling, but my main problem was getting it into race mode. I found that I had to hold the P1 button before I plugged it in, and not after, which I had to do with the P2 button when I had to update the Firmware. I tested out Dirt 4, and it recognized it as the CSL Elite, which meant my Fanatec Handbrake also worked!!! I did noticed that the dancing figure 8 switched to a 0, but at this point, I don't really care. I'm glad I got it to work.
 
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Hello, I bought my Drive Hub I'm waiting to arrive.
I have some doubts. Can I use the Logitech shifter (DB9 plug) or fanatec CSR shifter (PS/2 plug) on the Thrustmaster or Fanatec wheel on PS4?
 
This is clearly a head scratcher. I'm still trying to get the Drive Hub into fanatec mode, but I stumbled upon something interesting.

I used the CSR's guide to turn the controller off. Then I tried to switch to Fanatec mode on the Drive Hub. When it took, and displayed the "F" on theDH LED display. The controller came back on. So I turned on PCARS to see what the system thought was connected. It showed me a Microsoft WRW!

Holy Crap! Maybe there were plans for Slightly Mad to support that wheel? Or maybe Microsoft was going to allow 360 Wheels to work? I don't know, but it is interesting that the WRW was recognized as being compatible with the game.

Anyways, still trying to get a Fanatec wheel recognized.
 
Has ANYONE been able to get their Fanatec wheel in 'F' or 'L' mode? Can you please tell us what you did and what the DH display looks like once it is in that mode? My DH flashes F or L 6 times and then cycles back to '0'. Also, the Fanatic display has a small 'n' on it that never changes. Is that the way it's supposed to be? Does the Fanatec display ever show anything else?
 
WVStarship
Has ANYONE been able to get their Fanatec wheel in 'F' or 'L' mode? Can you please tell us what you did and what the DH display looks like once it is in that mode? My DH flashes F or L 6 times and then cycles back to '0'. Also, the Fanatic display has a small 'n' on it that never changes. Is that the way it's supposed to be? Does the Fanatec display ever show anything else?
Click to expand...

When Drive Hub is Flashing "F" it means it's now in "Fanatic Native Mode", release the button & it will tell you what wheel it's detecting (C,S,R etc) then will return to 0. When "L" is flashing it's in "Fanalogic Mode". When I got mine into FN Mode I had a speed readout on the CSR wheel in Assetto Corsa, the "n" disappeared.
 
No such luck with Fanatec mode here. As I stated above, the Xbox thought I was running a Microsoft Wireless Racing Wheel. I didn't try driving with it in PCARS because I couldn't map the Clutch pedal. So I went back to Fanalogic mode. It works fine for me there.

About the "n". No clue. I assumed that it was for the gear shifter position. I don't have one (Yes I use paddles and a clutch pedal), so I can only guess what its there for.

As for my take. The FFB is through the roof. On the 360 I set the wheel strength to 100% and the game out put would be around 70%. Now I'm running 100% wheel 50% game, and it's still a little too strong for my tastes. I think this is a good problem to have. :)
 
VBR
When Drive Hub is Flashing "F" it means it's now in "Fanatic Native Mode", release the button & it will tell you what wheel it's detecting (C,S,R etc) then will return to 0. When "L" is flashing it's in "Fanalogic Mode". When I got mine into FN Mode I had a speed readout on the CSR wheel in Assetto Corsa, the "n" disappeared.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much! This may finally be making sense to me. :) I think that what I thought was the number 5 on the DH display is actually the letter 'S'. If that's the case then my DH is probably correctly detecting my CSW 2.0, as it is showing C S 2 0 and then going back to the zero. I bought this to use on my PS4 with the upcoming GT Sport. The only racing game I have with the PS right now is Driveclub. The DH is working; there is no lag and the pedals work just fine. The FF is rather poor but that may be caused by the game itself or the console. I will do some more testing tonight and if I find anything worth reporting I'll post it here. One thing I have noticed is that the rev lights on my Fanatec are working, something I hadn't expected. The 'n' has yet to disappear from my display.
 
I received my Drivehub and it running Assetto Corsa on PS4. I'm using Fanatec CSW V2 (firmware242), CSP V3 and CSS V 1.5. It shows in game as a G29.

Some instructions as it is a bit confusing.

The wheel is plugged into the hub and not turned on. The controller is plugged into the hub. I power up the PS4, while pressing P1 on the hub I plug it into the PS4. If the LED is showing race track I turn on my wheel. When it calibrates the hub LED will flash F, C, S, 2 and then stop at 0. I press the X button on the controller plugged into the hub to log in and I'm in. I can then use the wheel to navigate the XMB or my other controller.


So far I have had very little time to play, but from what I have it feels great.
 
I saw a comment earlier, and had a similar problem when beta testing this unit. Make sure you use good quality USB cables, both to the controller and the PS4/XBox One. I was swearing at my unit for not working for over an hour one night, swapped out to a better cable and all was fixed.

Oh, and someone asked about XBox One testing. There were a few of us in the beta that had XBox One's. I regularly swapped between PS4 and XBox One testing this, in fact it was a lot of fun being able to do this.
 
For the Xbox players, here is something to avoid. Do not change from Fanalogic to Fanatec mode while in game. Nothing breaks, but you will need to restart your XBOX.

To expand on this, now that I have a little time. The XB1 will ask you to "Press A on your controller". The problem is, you've essentially changed controllers and cannot press the same A button its asking for. Plus, the Drive Hub will not respond to an attempt to go back into Fanalogic mode. So you will have to restart your console. Do so by using the controller connected to the Drive Hub. Just unplug the Mini USB cable first.

Also, you don't have to keep the batteries in your XBOX One controller after you've signed in and shut it off. Before connecting it to the Drive Hub, pull the batteries/charge pack out of the controller, put the battery cover back on, and then plug the mini USB into the controller. Save some wear and tear on your play and charge kit. :D
 
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Just received my drivehub today. I have got it working on ps4 but not on xbox one.

I plug everything in on the xbox and it the wheel does it calibration and the drivehub recognizes it as a g25 but then nothing will work on the wheel and no buttons will work.

Any help or suggestions?
 
SZaucy
Just received my drivehub today. I have got it working on ps4 but not on xbox one.

I plug everything in on the xbox and it the wheel does it calibration and the drivehub recognizes it as a g25 but then nothing will work on the wheel and no buttons will work.

Any help or suggestions?
Click to expand...

Make sure that the XB1 controller is off & everything is connected to Drive Hub before you plug it in to the XB1 console.
 
K1LLD0z3R
I power up the PS4, while pressing P1 on the hub I plug it into the PS4.
Click to expand...

You don't need to do that everytime you power on Drive Hub as it remembers whether it's in Race Mode or Play mode. The device is already in Race Mode by default, so we never really need to press the P1 button at all, unless for some people their one was in Play Mode by default.

@SZaucy - Best to contact tech support on the Drive Hub forums in that case, link is in the OP of this thread.


👍
 
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I wonder if any racing games on the Xb1 support Fanatec features? It seems that the game has to support a Fanatec wheel in order to use Fanatec Native mode. I thought AC and PCARS did?
 
Dopplegagger
I wonder if any racing games on the Xb1 support Fanatec features? It seems that the game has to support a Fanatec wheel in order to use Fanatec Native mode. I thought AC and PCARS did?
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Yep, that's right, it has to have a Fanatec driver in-game to work in FN Mode. Fanalogic mode feels better imho anyway & works in all games that have Logitech drivers. P CARS has no support for the new Fanatec PS4 wheel, but AC on PS4 does. But FN Mode felt very weak in AC on PS4 because of the torque differential between my wheel & the Fanatec wheel the driver is for. If you have a CSR, GT2, or GT3 Fanalogic mode is the best, especially if you wanna feel something.
 
VBR
Yep, that's right, it has to have a Fanatec driver in-game to work in FN Mode. Fanalogic mode feels better imho anyway & works in all games that have Logitech drivers. P CARS has no support for the new Fanatec PS4 wheel, but AC on PS4 does. But FN Mode felt very weak in AC on PS4 because of the torque differential between my wheel & the Fanatec wheel the driver is for. If you have a CSR, GT2, or GT3 Fanalogic mode is the best, especially if you wanna feel something.
Click to expand...

Alright, that's what I kind of feared. Well... It's no biggie. Fanalogic mode feels incredible on AC. I can only imagine what Fanatec mode feels like on the XB1. Sigh.
 
Hello all,

Someone asked before and I didn't see it answered. Does the DriveHub allow you to use any H-Shifter with any other wheel?
Thanks in advance,
 
G219
Does the DriveHub allow you to use any H-Shifter with any other wheel?
Click to expand...


If a shifter has a USB cable, then it has the potential to work in Drive Hub's accessory port. However, a driver needs to be written for it first, then tested, & then added to the Drive Hub's firmware. At launch there are currently only four supported accessories (see OP for the list). If a shifter has no USB connecter then it can't be used in Drive Hub's Accessory port as it's USB, although it is possible if there was a USB adapter for that shifter for it to be supported in the future.
 
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So a TH8RS is compatible right out of the box, or would it be best to calibrate it for PC use?

I know it's a boneheaded question, because it is always better to calibrate it. Just asking for those who want a plug and play experience. Myself included.


And I am really thinking of squeezing the trigger on getting a TH8RS shifter. Shifting using the clutch pedal and the paddles is weird feeling.
 

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