Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

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driveside79
+1, GT7 (PS5) + Fanatec CSW 2.5 + DriveHub - Fanalogic mode works okay but has center oscillation, Fanatic mode causes the game to stutter and is unplayable.
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i recommend lowering the ffb to 50-60 to avoid much oscillation.. not very good ffb but at least can play. can barely feel the tyres spin lol

everybody should try e-mailing drivehub and share the issue. support@collectiveminds.ca
 
I contacted collectiveminds support as well.

GT7 is unplayable with the CSL DD at this point. Sure maybe you can fix the oscialltion in Fanalogic mode by turning everything down but whats the point in that ? Thats not really a fix.

I hope they can fix the issue in Fanatec mode cause the FFB felt fine on that its just the game starts running like ****.
 
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I've also contacted them. Fingers crossed it's semi simple to fix, it's only at 0degree, even if the put a plaster on it to put a couple of degree deadzone in there it'd be better than it is now (i wouldnt have though)
 
Bonse
I've also contacted them. Fingers crossed it's semi simple to fix, it's only at 0degree, even if the put a plaster on it to put a couple of degree deadzone in there it'd be better than it is now (i wouldnt have though)
Click to expand...
hopefully they can fix it on fanatec mode.. fanalogic you lose a lot of ffb and the extra buttons
 
Bonse
I've also contacted them. Fingers crossed it's semi simple to fix, it's only at 0degree, even if the put a plaster on it to put a couple of degree deadzone in there it'd be better than it is now (i wouldnt have though)
Click to expand...
But thats Fanalogic mode. It should work in Fanatec mode as GT7 supports the fanatec wheels. Fanatec mode felt 10× better then Fanalogic already it just breaks the game somehow.
 
Greetings all. Long time since I posted, but like most of you... GT7 has me looking at my setup and wondering how I can get it all working best.

First day, I proceeded as I've indicated in earlier pages. First of all, I turn on the PS5. I use my pedals plugged into the accessory port, and I have to unplug them BEFORE I try to setup the wheel, or the two buttons on my F1 or BMW rim will NOT switch from Fanalogic to CSL Elite game modes. So having unplugged the pedals, and leaving the wheel base in the "red" mode it's in EVERY TIME I turn my CSW v2.5 on, with the Hori Mini plugged into the first USB port of the DriveHub, and my CSW v2.5 wheel base plugged into the 2nd USB port... I hold the two buttons on the bottom of the steering wheel for about 5 seconds. I see a "Controller Disconnected" message, and then it goes away. At this point, I plug my CSL Elite with LC brake pedals back into the Accessory port. (I understand I COULD use the "telephone" cable and plug my pedals directly into the base... but I've had problems with the brakes "disappearing" in iRacing and elsewhere when using that cable, so I ALWAYS use the pedals in USB mode instead. I don't have a shifter to plug in, so that seems to work ok.) Before plugging the pedals in, the DriveHub comes up with CS2-50 twice. When I plug my pedals in, it shows a "reverse" (?) C and 7-30 only once. But when I launch GT7, get past the videos, and into the "game", I can go to License Test for example, go to the controller settings, and the game shows I'm using Fanatec CSL Elite wheel and such. There is no mention of my pedals, but I assume that's normal. I can configure buttons, but I don't have the right stick to use in "photo" mode, etc.

So let's say I go to speed test. I switch to Manual Transmission, because I couldn't get Golds without it, and for a test, maybe two... the wheel and pedals work fine. HOWEVER, if I don't get a gold first try, and I retry... I maybe get one more shot at the speed test. But eventually, when I go to try a speed test again, despite the throttle showing the accelerator is working... and the car is in 1st gear, it won't drive. I can do retry again, look at config settings, etc... no change. If I turn the wheel off, exit the game, I'm sitting at the "desktop" of the PS5, I turn the CSW v2.5 back on, unplugging the pedals before I do... and setup from scratch... it works for a little bit, but then quits working within a few tries at a license test again.

I didn't have this problem when completing the "Cafe" stuff. In general, I could go to tracks, race, get 3rd place finishes while on Normal difficulty (probably because I wasn't "tuning" the cars and getting more performance out of them before the race, etc. But at least I could drive. But when they wanted me to do the 7th or so "Book" in the Cafe, I got bored of that stuff, decided I wanted to do the license tests, and it's been kinda a mess.

I want to thank the DriveHub folks. They are the ONLY reason I've been able to use my old wheelbase with the PS3, PS4, and such for as long as I have. I would LOVE to buy JUST the PS CSL DD, use that in place of the CSW v2.5, and if that worked with my rims and such... perfect. But they don't sell that wheel base without the PS wheel, the pedals, the desk clamp, and then if you get the stronger power pack and LC... it gets up to $1000. The whole idea of the CSL DD was it was an "inexpensive" upgrade for those of us who already had bought into the Fanatec Ecosystem. But I don't wanna pay $1000 for new parts, when a wheel base is all I really need. :(

Will be interested to hear if anyone else is having trouble "getting the car to move forward" at the beginning of a speed test. Not for that, I could at least use my setup. Haven't noticed the frame rate issues, but I playing in "Performance" mode on my PS5... as I'd read the lensflare isn't as impressive as just being able to play at a steady frame rate. If I could "just play" I'd agree with them, but something seems amiss.
 
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well this is unfortunate I was planning to buy one of these, as I refuse to drive with a game pad
and I just bought a PS4 to play GT7 with my Fanatec V2.5,
I have been waiting a long time for a worthy successor to GT4
I suppose for the full experience I could dig out my old G25
I assume the drivehub should work fine with that?
 
merkman
Greetings all. Long time since I posted, but like most of you... GT7 has me looking at my setup and wondering how I can get it all working best.

First day, I proceeded as I've indicated in earlier pages. First of all, I turn on the PS5. I use my pedals plugged into the accessory port, and I have to unplug them BEFORE I try to setup the wheel, or the two buttons on my F1 or BMW rim will NOT switch from Fanalogic to CSL Elite game modes. So having unplugged the pedals, and leaving the wheel base in the "red" mode it's in EVERY TIME I turn my CSW v2.5 on, with the Hori Mini plugged into the first USB port of the DriveHub, and my CSW v2.5 wheel base plugged into the 2nd USB port... I hold the two buttons on the bottom of the steering wheel for about 5 seconds. I see a "Controller Disconnected" message, and then it goes away. At this point, I plug my CSL Elite with LC brake pedals back into the Accessory port. (I understand I COULD use the "telephone" cable and plug my pedals directly into the base... but I've had problems with the brakes "disappearing" in iRacing and elsewhere when using that cable, so I ALWAYS use the pedals in USB mode instead. I don't have a shifter to plug in, so that seems to work ok.) Before plugging the pedals in, the DriveHub comes up with CS2-50 twice. When I plug my pedals in, it shows a "reverse" (?) C and 7-30 only once. But when I launch GT7, get past the videos, and into the "game", I can go to License Test for example, go to the controller settings, and the game shows I'm using Fanatec CSL Elite wheel and such. There is no mention of my pedals, but I assume that's normal. I can configure buttons, but I don't have the right stick to use in "photo" mode, etc.

So let's say I go to speed test. I switch to Manual Transmission, because I couldn't get Golds without it, and for a test, maybe two... the wheel and pedals work fine. HOWEVER, if I don't get a gold first try, and I retry... I maybe get one more shot at the speed test. But eventually, when I go to try a speed test again, despite the throttle showing the accelerator is working... and the car is in 1st gear, it won't drive. I can do retry again, look at config settings, etc... no change. If I turn the wheel off, exit the game, I'm sitting at the "desktop" of the PS5, I turn the CSW v2.5 back on, unplugging the pedals before I do... and setup from scratch... it works for a little bit, but then quits working within a few tries at a license test again.

I didn't have this problem when completing the "Cafe" stuff. In general, I could go to tracks, race, get 3rd place finishes while on Normal difficulty (probably because I wasn't "tuning" the cars and getting more performance out of them before the race, etc. But at least I could drive. But when they wanted me to do the 7th or so "Book" in the Cafe, I got bored of that stuff, decided I wanted to do the license tests, and it's been kinda a mess.

I want to thank the DriveHub folks. They are the ONLY reason I've been able to use my old wheelbase with the PS3, PS4, and such for as long as I have. I would LOVE to buy JUST the PS CSL DD, use that in place of the CSW v2.5, and if that worked with my rims and such... perfect. But they don't sell that wheel base without the PS wheel, the pedals, the desk clamp, and then if you get the stronger power pack and LC... it gets up to $1000. The whole idea of the CSL DD was it was an "inexpensive" upgrade for those of us who already had bought into the Fanatec Ecosystem. But I don't wanna pay $1000 for new parts, when a wheel base is all I really need. :(

Will be interested to hear if anyone else is having trouble "getting the car to move forward" at the beginning of a speed test. Not for that, I could at least use my setup. Haven't noticed the frame rate issues, but I playing in "Performance" mode on my PS5... as I'd read the lensflare isn't as impressive as just being able to play at a steady frame rate. If I could "just play" I'd agree with them, but something seems amiss.
Click to expand...
How do you change the wheelbase mode? I read someone on reddit talking about it but can’t figure it out
 
Barracuda413
well this is unfortunate I was planning to buy one of these, as I refuse to drive with a game pad
and I just bought a PS4 to play GT7 with my Fanatec V2.5,
I have been waiting a long time for a worthy successor to GT4
I suppose for the full experience I could dig out my old G25
I assume the drivehub should work fine with that?
Click to expand...
Mine is in my garage. I'd hate to give up the Fanatec FFB, but if I had to...
 
xterno50
How do you change the wheelbase mode? I read someone on reddit talking about it but can’t figure it out
Click to expand...
To change the wheel base mode, the F1 rim instructions say to use the "triangle" button (on an F1 rim, that's the top right 3 buttons... the one in the "middle"), and of the 3 "bottom" buttons" (start, pause, etc...) the one the most left. That should switch the base between Red / PC Mode, Blue / PS Mode, and Purple / Compatibility Mode. But I don't know if the DriveHub works in anything but the Red / PC Mode... so that may be moot.

Instead, if you want to switch from Logitech mode to Fanatec mode, you make sure your at the PS "menu" (aka not in a game), disconnect your pedals from the Accessory USB port if you use them that way, and then hold the bottom two "outside" buttons on a F1 rim or the BMW rim. You'll likely see the console say your controller is "disconnected" at the top right, but then the control connects again. Typically, if your wheel base and system were off previously, and you do this ONCE... you go from Logitech Mode into Fanatec Mode... and when you go to "configure your controls" like from the Licensing Test windows, you should see Fanatec CSL... instead of Logitech G23.

Hope that helps.
 
merkman
To change the wheel base mode, the F1 rim instructions say to use the "triangle" button (on an F1 rim, that's the top right 3 buttons... the one in the "middle"), and of the 3 "bottom" buttons" (start, pause, etc...) the one the most left. That should switch the base between Red / PC Mode, Blue / PS Mode, and Purple / Compatibility Mode. But I don't know if the DriveHub works in anything but the Red / PC Mode... so that may be moot.

Instead, if you want to switch from Logitech mode to Fanatec mode, you make sure your at the PS "menu" (aka not in a game), disconnect your pedals from the Accessory USB port if you use them that way, and then hold the bottom two "outside" buttons on a F1 rim or the BMW rim. You'll likely see the console say your controller is "disconnected" at the top right, but then the control connects again. Typically, if your wheel base and system were off previously, and you do this ONCE... you go from Logitech Mode into Fanatec Mode... and when you go to "configure your controls" like from the Licensing Test windows, you should see Fanatec CSL... instead of Logitech G23.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
I hold the two buttons you mentioned and nothing changes. Will check the manual
 
Yeah. That isn't working for me either with the BMW rim attached, despite what the manual says. I'll look for more info. Might need to look at the wheel base instructions rather than the RIM instructions.
 
merkman
Yeah. That isn't working for me either with the BMW rim attached, despite what the manual says. I'll look for more info. Might need to look at the wheel base instructions rather than the RIM instructions.
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yeah weird because he mentioned csw 2.5 but csw 2.5 is not playstation compatible so how cna he change it to ps4 mode?. maybe he means CSL elite?
 
Well, I know the CSW has at least a couple modes. The v2.5 manual talks about switching from "PC" (red) to "Xbox" (green) mode, but no amount of button pressing is working for me to do that, while the PS is off, and I just press the buttons indicated on BMW wheel while attached to the v2.5. Suspect DriveHub just wants the wheel base in PC mode regardless, but I won't swear to it.
 
merkman
Well, I know the CSW has at least a couple modes. The v2.5 manual talks about switching from "PC" (red) to "Xbox" (green) mode, but no amount of button pressing is working for me to do that, while the PS is off, and I just press the buttons indicated on BMW wheel while attached to the v2.5. Suspect DriveHub just wants the wheel base in PC mode regardless, but I won't swear to it.
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yeah i connected it to my pc and it doesn't change modes either
 
in order to use xbox mode you need to have an xbox compatible rim attached
with my CSL rim, I press the double square icon, and yellow Y button simultaneously
 
Messing around on the PC control panel i found these settings. However, they don't save after i change them. How does it work? lol wanna try them out. Only the FFB setting is working

1646512840730.png
 
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While troubleshooting, I realized my wheel base, f1 steering wheel, and drivers were all out of date. I uninstalled Fanatec on my PC, rebooted, installed the newest drivers, rebooted, updated the wheelbase, then installed and updated the F1 steering wheel and it updated too. With the firmware done, I tested that the pedals were working, turned off the wheel, switched from USB to plugging the pedals into the wheel base with the telephone cable, and tested again. With the PC showing all was well, I turned the wheel back off, plugged the Fanatec into the PS5, turned the PS5 on, turned the wheel base back on, and switched between Logitech Mode and Fanatec Modes while at the PS5 "main menu". Once I was sure I was in Fanatec Mode with 3 flashing "F" on my BMW rim, I started GT7, and while I only tested License Tests 3 or 4 times (seems like a pulled something in my back while working on everything today)... it worked great. So hopefully, I'm all set!
 
xterno50
Are you sure it is on fanatec mode? could you verify the drivehub version?
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Sorry for the delay, Firmware is 2.0.7-beta.8, I am not using a 4k monitor so not sure if that makes a difference.
Confirmed Fanatec mode "FFF"
I am up to Cafe menu book 19, and completed the first 2 licenses.
 
merkman
While troubleshooting, I realized my wheel base, f1 steering wheel, and drivers were all out of date. I uninstalled Fanatec on my PC, rebooted, installed the newest drivers, rebooted, updated the wheelbase, then installed and updated the F1 steering wheel and it updated too. With the firmware done, I tested that the pedals were working, turned off the wheel, switched from USB to plugging the pedals into the wheel base with the telephone cable, and tested again. With the PC showing all was well, I turned the wheel back off, plugged the Fanatec into the PS5, turned the PS5 on, turned the wheel base back on, and switched between Logitech Mode and Fanatec Modes while at the PS5 "main menu". Once I was sure I was in Fanatec Mode with 3 flashing "F" on my BMW rim, I started GT7, and while I only tested License Tests 3 or 4 times (seems like a pulled something in my back while working on everything today)... it worked great. So hopefully, I'm all set!
Click to expand...
How do you get your BMW wheel into Fanatec mode with the CSW2.5? I found this site, which mentions the red button on top and the black one at the bottom. But using these buttons on the PS5 just takes a screenshot and on PC I don't see anything changing, neither on the wheel, nor in the fanatec software. I'm on the latest firmware since this morning for the CSW, no idea what I'm missing .
 
as someone else mentioned, i that that those with a 2.5 changing modes are able to do it because they have a universal hub and detects a xbox so you can switch between pc/xbox mode. Without it it stays always on pc mode.
 
xterno50
as someone else mentioned, i that that those with a 2.5 changing modes are able to do it because they have a universal hub and detects a xbox so you can switch between pc/xbox mode. Without it it stays always on pc mode.
Click to expand...
So what you're saying is: CSW2.5 with a BMW wheel is always in PC mode and therefore the drivehub only recognizes it as G29? I'm struggling to understand the differences to be honest and what that means in terms of functionality (FFB, etc) within the game.



@Goonie75: Just the one wheel unfortunately, but like @xterno50 mentioned, seems to be related to the combination I'm using.

EDIT: Now it is being recognized as a Fanatec CSL Elite. No idea why though, not aware that I changed anything, just turned the base off and on.

Now I have to figure out why the controller gets disconnected several times during a race. It is not caused by the timeout, I'm using a Hori controller with a cable. Seems more like a loose connection somewhere, it disonnects and reconnects immediately. And it was working fine for a week, just randomly started sigh
 
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csw 2.5 people, are you able to tell when when the wheels are spinning? because i feel nothing doesn't matter if i am on fanalogic or fanatec mode.. was sports like this? coming from acc feels weird, the rest of the handling is fine but i can't feel the tyres spinning
 

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