Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

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hi
as @dazza23 mentioned we are looking into this, I have a brand new DD pro granturismo ready to go and test.. it will take a few days to look into it and get it sorted..
will you send an email or announce on here when theres a firmware update to fix this?
 
Could you tell me what firmware version of DriveHub you are using? 2.07? 2.08?
I’m running 2.0.8b7. However I went back and tested in L mode and got faster times - the game just seems to run a bit faster, otherwise in F mode it looks normal, just feels a bit slower. So something definitely going on. L mode is ok but a bit of oscillation at high speeds is annoying. If I hadn’t seen these posts I would not have thought much about it as I have gotten pretty far along in the Menu books etc. Clearly working harder than I needed to…
Lastly, I am currently on Fanatec PC driver 439 on a CSL Elite 1.1 connected to basic CSL Elite pedals plugged into a DriveHub using firmware 2.07.
All my peripherals are Fanatec and hooked up to the wheel base. Have not felt there were issues with F1, PCar3, but now I’m wondering…Driver is 437/FW 688. I may try the latest but that’s some extra work
 
Same issue on my side with the CSW 2.5 + Drivehub. I thought the Sport mode was broken because the races I tried I couldn't keep up with anybody at all and always finished a lap down. Will try later with the McLaren wheel in Xbox mode if that fixes the issue. It's "playable" against the AI, but Music Rally or Online races is absolutely a no go.
This is exactly what is happening to me in GT7 on PS4 Pro.
I was starting to go crazy thinking the game is too difficult, but then I noticed that both my throttle and brake are always about 1-2% applied. Makes it impossible to get off the line in the license tests too.
I then tested in GT Sport and everything was fine so it's not the pedals either.

I'm running CSW 2.5 + DriveHub and Co-Pilot + Logitech pedals.
Would updating to the latest beta drivers help?

EDIT: I tried holding the pedals down to around 1% while turning the wheel on, but that doesn't help. If I turn the wheel on, then it's fine until I touch the pedals, then it's back to being 1-2% on.
Attached a picture of what it looks like with no pedals pressed.
IMG_20220308_214508.jpg
 
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Could you tell me what firmware version of DriveHub you are using? 2.07? 2.08?

I have a hunch that this is a PD, Hori, or DriveHub issue rather than Fanatec, as I tried plugging in the DriveHub with ONLY the Hori controller attached (no wheel or any other accessory) and the stutter kicks in once logged into the PS5. If I choose NOT to log into the PS5 there is no stutter. If I also unplug the DriveHub (with only the Hori controller attached) during stuttering gameplay then everything suddenly becomes buttery smooth again. I would test with a DS4 to see if it is any different but I no longer have one unfortunately.

The stuttering is having a very significant impact on gameplay. When I manually timed with a stopwatch some recorded gameplay of driving around a short oval (Northern Isle Speedway), the time disparity between what the game displays and reality is quite drastic, even taking into consideration the human error in manually operating a stopwatch.

In-game / stopwatch
Lap 1: 25.800 / 31.03
Lap 2: 22.329 / 27.10
Lap 3: 22.242 / 26.66
Lap 4: 22.218 / 26.95

Lastly, I am currently on Fanatec PC driver 439 on a CSL Elite 1.1 connected to basic CSL Elite pedals plugged into a DriveHub using firmware 2.07.

Hi I tested it with à DS4 and F mode, same stuttering.
 
Could you tell me what firmware version of DriveHub you are using? 2.07? 2.08?

I have a hunch that this is a PD, Hori, or DriveHub issue rather than Fanatec, as I tried plugging in the DriveHub with ONLY the Hori controller attached (no wheel or any other accessory) and the stutter kicks in once logged into the PS5. If I choose NOT to log into the PS5 there is no stutter. If I also unplug the DriveHub (with only the Hori controller attached) during stuttering gameplay then everything suddenly becomes buttery smooth again. I would test with a DS4 to see if it is any different but I no longer have one unfortunately.

The stuttering is having a very significant impact on gameplay. When I manually timed with a stopwatch some recorded gameplay of driving around a short oval (Northern Isle Speedway), the time disparity between what the game displays and reality is quite drastic, even taking into consideration the human error in manually operating a stopwatch.

In-game / stopwatch
Lap 1: 25.800 / 31.03
Lap 2: 22.329 / 27.10
Lap 3: 22.242 / 26.66
Lap 4: 22.218 / 26.95

Lastly, I am currently on Fanatec PC driver 439 on a CSL Elite 1.1 connected to basic CSL Elite pedals plugged into a DriveHub using firmware 2.07.
I did a test with a DS4, and the stuttering is still here + disconnecting every 5 minutes.

pray collective minds will fix this asap, thé game is unplayable
 
hi
as @dazza23 mentioned we are looking into this, I have a brand new DD pro granturismo ready to go and test.. it will take a few days to look into it and get it sorted..
This is great news. Tried to use my DD Pro/Sprints over the weekend and it was unplayable. I wonder if it will be possible for you to get it working in the "Controller" port in PS5 mode?
 
Anyone happen to get a TS-XW to work on PS5?

Still waiting for a reply from tech support. Everything worked fine about 2 weeks before GT 7 launched. Went to play last Friday and have no ffb on any PS games now.
 
As a small workaround, I've found that if you plug your fanatec pedals into the Drivehub directly, instead of into the fanatec wheelbase, even in FanaLogic mode, you get the majority of your pedal travel.

I can at least play consistently in this way.
 
As a small workaround, I've found that if you plug your fanatec pedals into the Drivehub directly, instead of into the fanatec wheelbase, even in FanaLogic mode, you get the majority of your pedal travel.

I can at least play consistently in this way.
Hi, do you see the stuttering in Fanatec mode with pedals connected directly to the drivehub ?
 
This is exactly what is happening to me in GT7 on PS4 Pro.
I was starting to go crazy thinking the game is too difficult, but then I noticed that both my throttle and brake are always about 1-2% applied. Makes it impossible to get off the line in the license tests too.
I then tested in GT Sport and everything was fine so it's not the pedals either.

I'm running CSW 2.5 + DriveHub and Co-Pilot + Logitech pedals.
Would updating to the latest beta drivers help?

EDIT: I tried holding the pedals down to around 1% while turning the wheel on, but that doesn't help. If I turn the wheel on, then it's fine until I touch the pedals, then it's back to being 1-2% on.
Attached a picture of what it looks like with no pedals pressed.View attachment 1121373
I also have that issue with copilot and g27 pedals: can't launch car, on my side 100% throttle applies but car doesn't move...
If I just launch car with ps4 controller then I can drive normally through pedals but if I stop car, can't launch it again. Very weird issue...

Also I modified the way I plugged my T300 in DH, I now have it in PS4 mode plugged in controller port of DH and it works but if I plug my g27 pedals directly to the wheel with DB9 pedals T.RJ12 adapter, the brake pedal doesn't calibrate properly (50% only), tried this to avoid the copilot issue but new issue raise...

Other way to avoid the pedals calibration issue or copilot issue, I tried plugging my g27 pedals in USB to DH with DB9 pedals T.RJ12 adapter and T.RJ12 USB adapter (plugged to PC in dedicated software, everything is fine) it works but again a new issue if I plug my aiologs shifter or brake in the same time in DH, T.RJ12 USB adapter switch off and pedals don't work................. (maybe a lack of usb power for all stuff, don't know).

So no way for me to use T300 in PS4 mode, both aiologs controllers and pedals through T.RJ12 USB adapter with DH too...
 
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Hi, do you see the stuttering in Fanatec mode with pedals connected directly to the drivehub ?
The FFB issues are still there. However with the CSL Elite 1.1, it's not strong enough to matter, also I turned the in game torque to 3 and it's helped immensely.

Easily playable until a fix comes.
 
For those with a Thrustmaster T500RS, here's what Drive Hub support said about GT7/PS5 support...

Summary first, then their quote second.

  • It works, just not officially supported.
  • You need a wired approved controller.
  • There are some force feedback issues with it that they're working on (although some people in various forums think that it's a game issue that PD will have to solve, not a Drive Hub issue).

To quote them...

"With a PS4 hori mini pad although it is not officially supported on PS5 yet. But yes you could use this method as an auth controller which would work for Drive Hub. There are some issues we are currently working through on GT7. We have had reports of force feedback issues."

Thank you for this.
I was very annoyed playing it on PS4. Was actually thinking of getting the new TGT base to be able to play on ps5, but it's not worth the extra money IMO.
My drivehub and hori mini arrive tomorrow, will test them out. Hopefully the FFB issues are not gamebreaker.
 
Just to add feedback:

I'm on PS4 with a G25.

Buttons on the wheels etc seem to work but pedals do not respond, or better the clutch and brake work...only the throttle is not responding...I remember this happening on gt sport long time ago. any idea how to fix this?

I've already tried updating the drivehub to the latest version but nothing changed.

THANKS
 
Does nobody else have problems with the controller constantly disconnecting and connecting again in GT7 when not using the fanatec mode? I'm not talking about the 10 mins disconnect, just random disconnects every 30 seconds or so and immediately reconnecting.

Thanks to help in this thread, I was able to switch to fanatec mode with the BMW wheel on a CSW2.5. But then the force feedback feels really weird (can't put my finger on it and the framerate is absolutely horrible)

Which makes the game basically umplayable for me right now, really disappointing.

drivehub is on the latest firmware, the csw as well. I did not have that problem at the beginning, so I'll downgrade the fanatec drivers one by one it seems, unti I find a version that is not disconnecting anymore. Hopefully this is the issue I'm seeing.

If anybody has any tips, I would be grateful :)
 
Does nobody else have problems with the controller constantly disconnecting and connecting again in GT7 when not using the fanatec mode? I'm not talking about the 10 mins disconnect, just random disconnects every 30 seconds or so and immediately reconnecting.

Thanks to help in this thread, I was able to switch to fanatec mode with the BMW wheel on a CSW2.5. But then the force feedback feels really weird (can't put my finger on it and the framerate is absolutely horrible)

Which makes the game basically umplayable for me right now, really disappointing.

drivehub is on the latest firmware, the csw as well. I did not have that problem at the beginning, so I'll downgrade the fanatec drivers one by one it seems, unti I find a version that is not disconnecting anymore. Hopefully this is the issue I'm seeing.

If anybody has any tips, I would be grateful :)
If you are using DS4 it disconnects randomly. You have to use the HORI wired pad.
The framerate is a drivehub issue, the collectiveminds teamps is looking into it. Waiting for an update.
For now the Fanalogic mode is the most playable, but there is still oscilating issues and less accurante that Fanatec mode.

Also a tip that a lot of users are missing if they want to undertstand how to swicth from Fanalogic to Fanatec mode.
I did the same mistake in the beginnning, pushing the Start and Select button on the wheel and looking into the drivehub leds to check if there is a F or a L. BUT this is displayed on the Wheel Leds ! not on the drivehub.

Then if you push these 2 buttons check on your wheel first.
 
I also have that issue with copilot and g27 pedals: can't launch car, on my side 100% throttle applies but car doesn't move...
If I just launch car with ps4 controller then I can drive normally through pedals but if I stop car, can't launch it again. Very weird issue...

Also I modified the way I plugged my T300 in DH, I now have it in PS4 mode plugged in controller port of DH and it works but if I plug my g27 pedals directly to the wheel with DB9 pedals T.RJ12 adapter, the brake pedal doesn't calibrate properly (50% only), tried this to avoid the copilot issue but new issue raise...

Other way to avoid the pedals calibration issue or copilot issue, I tried plugging my g27 pedals in USB to DH with DB9 pedals T.RJ12 adapter and T.RJ12 USB adapter (plugged to PC in dedicated software, everything is fine) it works but again a new issue if I plug my aiologs shifter or brake in the same time in DH, T.RJ12 USB adapter switch off and pedals don't work................. (maybe a lack of usb power for all stuff, don't know).

So no way for me to use T300 in PS4 mode, both aiologs controllers and pedals through T.RJ12 USB adapter with DH too...
I feel you bro, let's hope they find a fix for this pedals issue.
I'm in self quarantine and really want to start with GT7 to spend the time, but since I can't have full speed due to the brake always being applied (and also can't win the license tests because of that), I don't want to start the career before it gets fixed...
Fingers crossed for a fast solution, the Drive Hub is an amazing thing!
 
If you are using DS4 it disconnects randomly. You have to use the HORI wired pad.
The framerate is a drivehub issue, the collectiveminds teamps is looking into it. Waiting for an update.
For now the Fanalogic mode is the most playable, but there is still oscilating issues and less accurante that Fanatec mode.

Also a tip that a lot of users are missing if they want to undertstand how to swicth from Fanalogic to Fanatec mode.
I did the same mistake in the beginnning, pushing the Start and Select button on the wheel and looking into the drivehub leds to check if there is a F or a L. BUT this is displayed on the Wheel Leds ! not on the drivehub.

Then if you push these 2 buttons check on your wheel first.
Ah, sorry. Forgot to mention that I use the hori mini pad with a cable.

I tested again yesterday and it seems that I either have a short somewhere or it is a problem with the fanatec H shifter, not sure yet. But it seems to be a hardware problem. sigh
 
I seem to have a big issue using the Drivehub with the TS-XW wheel. I have the latest firmware and driver updates for the wheel and the drivehub itself, but I'm getting 2 issues:

  • Not feeling any sort of real feedback from the wheel in terms of vibration, getting a little ffb but not a lot
  • The main issue is the degrees of rotation. When I turn the wheel 90 degrees for example, it's only doing about 45 degrees in game, which makes it unplayable. I tested on GT Sport and it seems to be OK, but GT7 I'm having this issue.

Anyone have any suggestions or overcome any similar issues?

Edit: I should probably mention I'm on the PS4 and I've got the controller set to "Always use USB".
 
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I feel you bro, let's hope they find a fix for this pedals issue.
I'm in self quarantine and really want to start with GT7 to spend the time, but since I can't have full speed due to the brake always being applied (and also can't win the license tests because of that), I don't want to start the career before it gets fixed...
Fingers crossed for a fast solution, the Drive Hub is an amazing thing!
Too bad I didn't try this before GT7 1.06 update, but the pedal problem is solved when using the Fanalogic mode. Unfortunately in this mode there is so much wheel wobble, that I had to turn the FFB all the way down, which makes it pretty numb to drive. But at least I can start the career to get some progress before this issue gets fixed :)
 
Can also confirm issues using a DD2 with Drivehub and Hori on PS5. (All updated to latest firmware).

Music Rally is impossible to progress in using Fanatec mode, but Fanalogic is fine.

Fanatec mode feels like FFB is missing for all effects on curbs and road vibrations. Only resistance and slip is really felt. A stark difference plugging in a DualSense to play with instead, or switching to G29 mode where the FFB feels less detailed(plus oscillations) but at least giving more feedback.

No major fps issue, with the exception of whatever is going on in music Rally. Could be impacting regular ai races too, but yea.

Also no such issues seemingly on GT Sport.
 
Hi guys. :)

I'm so happy I discovered this thread with this much depth of information regarding the DriveHub.

However, I didn't find so much info about my wheel, so I'll ask here. Sorry if this question has been answered elsewhere on the forum. :)

Will my "Thrustmaster TX Ferrari 458 Italia edition (XB1)" work with the DriveHub (with the Hori D-pad cabled controller) + PS5 + GT7? I was hoping I could avoid shelling out money for another racing wheel/system just to play GT7 on the PS5. :/

Best regards,
Tor Erik
 
Hi guys. :)

I'm so happy I discovered this thread with this much depth of information regarding the DriveHub.

However, I didn't find so much info about my wheel, so I'll ask here. Sorry if this question has been answered elsewhere on the forum. :)

Will my "Thrustmaster TX Ferrari 458 Italia edition (XB1)" work with the DriveHub (with the Hori D-pad cabled controller) + PS5 + GT7? I was hoping I could avoid shelling out money for another racing wheel/system just to play GT7 on the PS5. :/

Best regards,
Tor Erik
Hi it should
 
Confirmed is a GT7/DH issue. I have been playing for more than half an hour in fanatec mode with a csldd on ps4 pro to GTSport and I have not had any problems. i changed later to gt7 and have had disconnections and franerate problems in fanatec mode, plus the ffb in this mode is weird. In logitech mode I don't like.
 
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Evening, I got today my DC Simracing DC2 pedals and has someone here by chance exactly such with the Drivehub to run? With me, unfortunately, only the connector on the Drivehub flashes and the pedals are not recognized.
 
Ho all,
I am using a Fanatec DD1 F1 (PS compatible) in combination with the Heusinkveld Sprint pedals. Therefore I also have to use the Drivehub in the Direct Drive mode (Wheelbase in the controller port and Pedals in the Asscessorie port).
I have the same slow down issue in GT7.
I hope that this issue is possible to be fixed
 
Ho all,
I am using a Fanatec DD1 F1 (PS compatible) in combination with the Heusinkveld Sprint pedals. Therefore I also have to use the Drivehub in the Direct Drive mode (Wheelbase in the controller port and Pedals in the Asscessorie port).
I have the same slow down issue in GT7.
I hope that this issue is possible to be fixed
Drivehub are looking into this this week. Fingers crossed!
 
Is there a central place for "patch notes" when the drivehub make changes or is this forum the best place for that info? Just want to be able to try out the TS-XW on GT7 haha!
 
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