Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

[Bonse]

Ok how do I know if it worked?

The display on the wheel will flash f or l

 

[Belovian]

The display on the wheel will flash f or l

I thought so nothing happens when I press those buttons. I've tried in all 3 modes. Connected to the drivehub, disconnected, nothing happens...

 

[Belovian]

O

I thought so nothing happens when I press those buttons. I've tried in all 3 modes. Connected to the drivehub, disconnected, nothing happens...

K if i hold both for 5 seconds it briefly says "usb disconnected" then the drivehub goes through its usual startup sequence. But I see no difference otherwise. And definitely no F or L displayed.

 

[xterno50]

Never mind, seems like the in game wheel stops turning but the wheel are still turning so it's all good.

CSW 2.5 users, what settings are you running in the game and base? i have 1-5 on the game and 90 FFB, 70 FEI.

 

[Shinfly]

Thank you @Podger for the amazing quick turnaround on this!

Does anyone know how to switch from Fanalogic to fanatec mode using the csl dd and Mclaren GT3 wheel?

Look on the Wheel led display. I did the same mistake by looking on DH. but it's only displayed on the Wheel, you have to Hold buttons until you see a F for Fanatec mode or L for Fanalogic

Ok how do I know if it worked?

 

[Belovian]

K if i hold both for 5 seconds it briefly says "usb disconnected" then the drivehub goes through its usual startup sequence. But I see no difference otherwise. And definitely no F or L displayed

So I have to hold for 5,release and press again. Reddit to the rescue

 

[Dazza83]

However the issue with the brake and throttle pedals being always applied by 2-3% is still there with the 2.0.8 beta 8 version.
Is it possible to fix that or is it a game issue? I believe just setting some deadzone would help with that.

Have you tried pressing the pedals down slightly when powering up wheel?

My wheel matches the in game wheel, but when the in game wheel stops turning mine doesn't. Any idea what it could be?

Haven't seen it myself but possibly a game bug where its not activating soft lock properly?

Confirmed new beta8 patch has stop going into 30hz. I still get mad oscillating on the I-A6 or so license (cant remember exactly, the le mans one) first bit when you go to 200mph is crazy. I've done over 230 with 0 oscillations though so may just be that car.

got FFB sensitivity in settings set to 1? or If you have a DD wheel could set the NDP setting higher.

 

[raghza]

Have you tried pressing the pedals down slightly when powering up wheel?

Yes, but unfortunately this changes nothing.

 

[Mad1723]

So I have to hold for 5,release and press again. Reddit to the rescue

An easy way to know if it worked: go into a race, and try to change button assignment. If the wheel is a Logitech, you're in L mode. If it's a CSL Elite, you're in F mode.

 

[xterno50]

Have you tried pressing the pedals down slightly when powering up wheel?

Haven't seen it myself but possibly a game bug where its not activating soft lock properly?

got FFB sensitivity in settings set to 1? or If you have a DD wheel could set the NDP setting higher.

can you check it when you get a chance? because for example, on the formula superlicense test the ingame wheel stops turning and mine turns for like 5% more. Then i use a GR3 car and it keeps turning for like 30% more, but i switch camera and the tyres are still reacting to it.. so it is something with the ingame wheel view?

 

[Belovian]

An easy way to know if it worked: go into a race, and try to change button assignment. If the wheel is a Logitech, you're in L mode. If it's a CSL Elite, you're in F mode.

That was exactly how I knew, button mapping had changed. Then I noticed the speedometer on the wheel was working!

 

[MisoSupra]

I updated my firmware to the new beta and the frame issue is better for me but it still is not 100 percent. Still cannot complete a lap in music rally but i can get a lot farther than before.

I am using a dd1 in pc 2.5 compat mode on ps4.

Edit: i am dumb. I installed beta 4 instead of 8. 8 works with no drops.

 

[Saneless]

So I have to hold for 5,release and press again. Reddit to the rescue

Hah, yes, I rescued you there. Caught that before reading this

On another note, some text boxes show me a right stick down icon to scroll but my wheel doesn't have anything that works as that right stick. Any way to scroll through?

 

[Belovian]

Hah, yes, I rescued you there. Caught that before reading this

On another note, some text boxes show me a right stick down icon to scroll but my wheel doesn't have anything that works as that right stick. Any way to scroll through?

Not that I have found with the gt3. But I'm no expert.

 

[Goonie75]

@Podger , what pedals does the DH simulate in Fanatec mode? I know someone that has the new GT DD Pro with the new CSL LC pedals and they can't replicate the non-linear pedal curve on the throttle in GTS, if these pedals are treated differently by GTS could the DH be setup to simulate them instead to fix this issue?

 

[watsabe]

Hey. Tested with the new .8 beta drives. I'm using playstation compatible csl elite wheelbase.

If I connect trough ps4 controller, the framerate dip is gone, but the wheel disconnects after 5-10 minutes. (Need hori controller)
If I connect drivehub directly trough my wheel base, the framerate drop is still present.

@Podger hoping there will be a fix for this case also! Thank you for your work.

EDIT: I'm playing GT7 on playstation 5.

 

[driveside79]

New beta firmware resolves things for me! CSW2.5 + DriveHub in Fanatec mode works GREAT now, no more frame skipping! No issues whatsoever with range of motion too, I tried it before the firmware update (after reading the comments above) and after, it's unchanged and the wheel movement in the game matches my actual wheel's movement perfectly.

 

[Shottah072]

Quick clip of some driving with the CSL DD on GT7 PS5.

Using;
New Beta 8 firmware for Drivehub
Drivehub on Fanatec mode
Wheelbase on Compatibility mode
Fanatec recommended settings for DD Pro

Everything working amazingly well, was second guessing my decision not to wait for the DD Pro base but turns out i can use it just fine on PS.

 

[oqvist]

This thread exploded!

I installed the 2.07. I tried Fanatec clubsport v3 inverted. Not officially supporten but works fine. Same with t500rs pedals. Have not tried them in hanging position though.

He sim ultimate was a no go. Only one of my three pedals worked. Cluch pedal act as a throttle but the other give no inputs.

Fanatec clubsport h shifter also dont work sadly. Neither in sq or h shifter mode.

Didnt try my simucube just assumed it wouldnt work.

 

[oqvist]

I can confirm this beta firmware now works with a TS-XW on PS5. FFB is quite muted but it’s there.

Really hoping the FFB is better on the GT DD Pro when I get it set up.

Its very strong on my ts-pc and ps 4 which is the same. Seems it uses the t300rs profile.

 

[twinnuke]

Beta 8 + Nancon + G920 works perfectly.

 

[JeffKill]

Its very strong on my ts-pc and ps 4 which is the same. Seems it uses the t300rs profile.

Not sure what changed but today my wheel just drops FFB after 1 or 2 laps.

 

[mac22]

using the drivehub + PS5 + CSWv2 and was wondering:
1)what FFB settings work best on the wheel and in game for GT7?
2)how do you edit the in game wheel settings do you have to find your wheel in the main in game settings (accessing from the top left of the world screen)? - if yes do I need to find the CSWv2 appearing in the selection of wheels (dont remember seeing a CSWv2 when I last checked) - maybe because the CSWv2 is not a PS5 wheel......
3)On the replays my change of view button (R1 from memory) does not seem to work on the Hori mini or wheel but on the main PS5 controller(if I power on) it works and changes my view - is this a bug?
any help appreciated....

 

[RS60NR]

using the drivehub + PS5 + CSWv2 and was wondering:
1)what FFB settings work best on the wheel and in game for GT7?

For my CSW V2 I’m using the defaults on the wheel, but FOR turned down a bit to suit. BRF os about 70. 5 for torque and 2-4 for sensitivity in game. BTW you’ll want to use the latest Fanatec beta drivers - PC439 which loads 689 FW to the wheel.

2)how do you edit the in game wheel settings do you have to find your wheel in the main in game settings (accessing from the top left of the world screen)? - if yes do I need to find the CSWv2 appearing in the selection of wheels (dont remember seeing a CSWv2 when I last checked) - maybe because the CSWv2 is not a PS5 wheel......

the Drivehub sets the wheel to the PS as a CSL elite, there is no CSW option, so use that one

3)On the replays my change of view button (R1 from memory) does not seem to work on the Hori mini or wheel but on the main PS5 controller(if I power on) it works and changes my view - is this a bug?
any help appreciated....

Only the 4 main buttons on the Hori work - the sticks etc don’t work. The wheel does it all, unless you activate another PS5 controller. The view change in replay is the same as set for camera on the wheel - default is square. Edit that In wheel config. To use the analog stick in photo mode, use reverse control option to switch functions for left/right stick.

 

[VinZe]

Hi, does anyone know if BJ Simracing or DC Simracing pedals will work with Drivehub ?

 

[Beezer215]

The website knows, there's a list of compatible products.

 

[postulo]

Maybe a stupid question but maybe somebody knows the answer.
With The Heusinkveld sprint pedals I have the possibility to set different profiles in the software. Are those profiles saved directly in the pedals and working if you connect the pedals with the drivehub and PS5 or are the profiles saved only in the software and if you connect it with drivehub and PS5 there is only a default profile working?

 

[gainusha]

Thank you for this.
I was very annoyed playing it on PS4. Was actually thinking of getting the new TGT base to be able to play on ps5, but it's not worth the extra money IMO.
My drivehub and hori mini arrive tomorrow, will test them out. Hopefully the FFB issues are not gamebreaker.

I have received my DriveHub and Hori, from a connection perspective all is perfect, however, there is absolutely no FFB on my T500rs in GT7 PS5.
At this point in time it's totally unplayable. Not sure if i didn't set up something correctly on Drivehub, i'm running the latest beta (8)

 

[Podger]

Hey. Tested with the new .8 beta drives. I'm using playstation compatible csl elite wheelbase.

If I connect trough ps4 controller, the framerate dip is gone, but the wheel disconnects after 5-10 minutes. (Need hori controller)
If I connect drivehub directly trough my wheel base, the framerate drop is still present.

@Podger hoping there will be a fix for this case also! Thank you for your work.

EDIT: I'm playing GT7 on playstation 5.

ok, I'll get my CSL out, I was doing all the wok so far on GT DD Pro.. I have an ongoing issue myself, I cant seem to get any FFB at all with any wheel I have, everything is fine in other games. this issue has been annoying me

 

[Podger]

Maybe a stupid question but maybe somebody knows the answer.
With The Heusinkveld sprint pedals I have the possibility to set different profiles in the software. Are those profiles saved directly in the pedals and working if you connect the pedals with the drivehub and PS5 or are the profiles saved only in the software and if you connect it with drivehub and PS5 there is only a default profile working?

The HE pedals are all a bit different, they seem to have a differnt controller on every new batch, its hard to keep up with them.
The He sprint ( the cheper ones) store on the device, the Ultimate store on the PC, and this means setting profiles will be of no use in DH for the Ultimate pedals