Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

  • Thread starter VBR
  • 3,717 comments
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raghza
And this is why I just love the Drive Hub! Amazing support, thank you @Podger!

Meanwhile I received my new Fanatec pedals so I'm not using the Co-Pilot anymore and with that all my problems were gone and the game is absolutely perfect in Fanatec mode.

But hopefully some others who had the same problem as me, can now happily play :)
Thanks!
Click to expand...
I am very glad that they have already found a solution for those who use fanatec. I use Thrustmaster and I don't have any feeling on track or kerbs. 😢😞
 
dbalarez
I am very glad that they have already found a solution for those who use fanatec. I use Thrustmaster and I don't have any feeling on track or kerbs. 😢😞
Click to expand...
There is no solution for Fanatec yet. We don’t feel any road detail or kerbs either.

Seems it’s a polyphony issue to fix, not DH.
 
Hello,

There's 2 buttons on my t300rs steering wheel that activate brake and acceleration when using it on xbox sx with horizon, is this normal? It seems like those buttons must be mapped to the wheel. I have pedals to do the jobs of those buttons. Any way I can free up the buttons?

Also the bottom right two buttons on the base don't seem to map or work.
 
BLACK86
Hello,

There's 2 buttons on my t300rs steering wheel that activate brake and acceleration when using it on xbox sx with horizon, is this normal? It seems like those buttons must be mapped to the wheel. I have pedals to do the jobs of those buttons. Any way I can free up the buttons?

Also the bottom right two buttons on the base don't seem to map or work.
Click to expand...
Those button are L3 and R3 and are the same as RSB and LSB on an xbox wheel, they simply are NOT used but xbox, even thos every vendor adds them. We mapped them as digital versions of accelerator and brake... some games like Pcars used the pedals to navigate the menu, which IM was stupid, I realise you can't fix stupid, so i did this instead...
 
Has anyone tested any USB Handbrakes / shifters in drivehub? I'm in contact with Taiwan office, and they said they don't have any on hand to test.

They are arduino devices and show up as "USB Joystick" on Windows.
 
LaserMenace
Yeah I've been searching to no avail so far...
Click to expand...
Here you go, took me about 30 seconds to find, unfortunately no longer available and as Podger mentions no guarantee they have the right electronics.

www.gtplanet.net

Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

All settings are persistent and are written to the eeprom... the dot indicates the authentication packets on ps4 Ah, I see. Sorry, been bombarding you with questions but have one more! I was using the wheel on my Xbox tonight and noticed that the Drivehub displays CSLE - I would have thought...
www.gtplanet.net www.gtplanet.net
 
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Goonie75
Here you go, took me about 30 seconds to find.

www.gtplanet.net

Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

All settings are persistent and are written to the eeprom... the dot indicates the authentication packets on ps4 Ah, I see. Sorry, been bombarding you with questions but have one more! I was using the wheel on my Xbox tonight and noticed that the Drivehub displays CSLE - I would have thought...
www.gtplanet.net www.gtplanet.net
Click to expand...
Sorry. Was searching in particular for "arduino handbrake" prob why I couldn't find it. Anyhow, still not conclusive evidence for my shifter. :(

I have one of these:

usb h shifter - Buy usb h shifter with free shipping on AliExpress

Quality usb h shifter with free worldwide shipping on AliExpress
www.aliexpress.com www.aliexpress.com

I may bite the bullet and just buy DriveHub here to try out. Our online shops here have a 14 day return policy at least no questions asked. :D
 
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Podger
Those button are L3 and R3 and are the same as RSB and LSB on an xbox wheel, they simply are NOT used but xbox, even thos every vendor adds them. We mapped them as digital versions of accelerator and brake... some games like Pcars used the pedals to navigate the menu, which IM was stupid, I realise you can't fix stupid, so i did this instead...
Click to expand...
Speaking of button mapping, both the Fanatec Universal Hub V2 and Button module endurance rim(Porsche) lack mapping for the PS Home Screen button. The hub V2 has the Xbox button but it does nothing when pushed with Drivehub on PS5, so I have to use the Hori pad to do so.

The same Xbox button works fine on the formula V2.5x though. So unsure if they can be mapped somehow similarly to that? It’s the only Fanatec rim that I have that seems to include a ps-button mapped.
 
Hello everyone,

I own a DriveHub, a XBOX Series X and a G29 + HS.
The G29 + HS + DriveHub worked fine on my PS4 Pro.

On XBOX though I've been losing connection to the wheel between every x seconds to a few minutes while driving any racing game since 2018.
After losing connection sometimes the XBOX logo on the controller stays illuminated, sometimes it turns off while the wheel keeps working for a while.

This problem also persisted since I bought the DriveHub back in April 2018 with my XBOX One S.
I then stopped using the wheel on XBOX because of this behaviour but now I'd like to give it another try especially as F1 2021 just arrived on GamePass.

This is what I tried so far:
  • Following the manual incl. proper connection order of the XBOX controller
    • This includes turning all devices (controller, wheel, DriveHub) off before connecting to the XBOX
  • Not following the proper connection order in various ways (e.g., controller is turned on while connecting to the DriveHub, which is already connected to the XBOX, etc.)
  • Flashing various stable / beta firmwares (incl. 2.0.8-beta9) since 2018
  • Trying the G29 on the USB port for wheel or on the accessories port of the DriveHub
  • Switching between PS3 / PS4 modes
  • Turning on FANTEC mode
  • Replacing the USB cables for controller, DriveHub
  • Always updating XBOX controllers to newest firmware (as of today: 5.13) since 2018
  • Trying w/o the hand-shifter connected
  • Fixing the right analog stick of the XBOX controller to top-right position with a rubber band to fake input
  • I'm always turning the XBOX off completely even cutting off the power supply alltogether
Is my DriveHub faulty?

Cheers,
Tyrsir
 
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Podger
I got one of those on Amazon recently and is worked OK. However, although they mechanically look the same, I've seen at least another 2 that look the same but with different circuit boards, so I cant guarantee they will work out of the box.

i bought this one:

someone else bought this one:
Click to expand...
@Podger I have a very similar handbrake to the one you have on amazon, I was wondering if there was anything I could send you to help make my USB Shifter work?

I have this one:

www.aliexpress.com

17.55US $ 55% OFF|Pc Usb Simulation Game H Gear Shifter For Logitech G29/g25/g27/g920 Thrustmaster T300rs/gt For Ets2 Simracing Racing Game - Board Game - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com www.aliexpress.com
 
@Podger Hey, sorry to tag you like this, I was just wondering if you are aware of the bug with the T500rs and pedals that has been mentioned a couple of times here: pressing the pedals before the countdown timer reaches 1 in Gran Turismo 7 breaks the FFB

Do you think this is more a game bug or drivehub bug ? Can we, the t500 users help in any way ?
 
Podger
We mapped them as digital versions of accelerator and brake... some games like Pcars used the pedals to navigate the menu, which IM was stupid, I realise you can't fix stupid, so i did this instead...
Click to expand...

Forgive my ignorance, but if pcars uses pedals as navigation buttons then can I not use my pedals to navigate therefore free up the two buttons? If this is not possible then can't people just use the pad for menus whilst the wheel is connected, I do this with other games, have not tried it with pcars but I have it so may try tonight.
 
you dont get it, there is no extra buttons.... those are buttons on the wheel that are redirected, to inputs that are availble on the the xbox api..
 
maxzibit
Ok so it seems that having the DD Pro plugged in one PS5 console usb port and the drive hub with Sprints pedals and mini hori in other usb port, dont work together at the same time as they are both seen as a ps4 controller. Where as having the DD pro plugged into the drive hub works at the same time with the ps5 controller.
I've tested the drive hub with the dd pro in the Fanalogic, Fanatec and DD mode, only Fanalogic mode doesn't have the frame loss but the FF is lacking.
Waiting for some sort of fix with an upcoming Drive hub firmware, hopefully..
@Podger ... Is it possible to add support for the Csl DD, DD Pro in the future? 🙏
Click to expand...

How did you access DD mode?? I’m only seeing Fanatec abd fanalogic modes.
 
My understanding is that it doesn't work like that anymore. It used to be a feature though I guess. ?
1648581879456.png
 
Beezer215
My understanding is that it doesn't work like that anymore. It used to be a feature though I guess. ?
View attachment 1130904
Click to expand...
If you have a ps4 compatible wheelbase you do not need an authentication controller (hori mini) , you just plug the wheelbase into the controller port directly.
You do that when you need to use your wheel with another set of pedals (He sprints in my case) and want to keep a better ffb on the wheel.

I mean its not too complicated, it just literally sais right there on the image what DD mode is.
 
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maxzibit
If you have a ps4 compatible wheelbase you do not need an authentication controller (hori mini) , you just plug the wheelbase into the controller port directly.
You do that when you need to use your wheel with another set of pedals (He sprints in my case) and want to keep a better ffb on the wheel.

I mean its not too complicated, it just literally sais right there on the image what DD mode is.
Click to expand...
It’s worded oddly as it’s not really a mode like Fanatec/Fanalogic. And if it includes non DD PS4 wheels then it’s not really a direct drive mode and more of a “PS4 chipped wheel” setting.
 
Podger
you dont get it, there is no extra buttons.... those are buttons on the wheel that are redirected, to inputs that are availble on the the xbox api..
Click to expand...

Right, I thought you made them like that just for pcars only.

So what you are saying is the brake and the accelerate buttons on the wheel have to be there, there's no other way?

If that's the case then so be it.
 
@Podger

Just some intel for you.

Running DD2/Sprints/PS5/GT7. Fanatec all on latest driver 439. DH on latest version 9. Using the hori controller.

I was testing on S-8 license test, had a few random times when the game stuttered/partly froze before disconnecting the wheel. Happened maybe 3-4 times and then never again.

I get the mid corner knocking now and then that others mention.

Other issue I’ve noticed since Sport on the PS5 is how the FFB changes after some track resets as it gets significantly heavier until you exit the track and re enter.

Apart from that V9 solved my fps issue, apart from those few mini crashes.
 
Hi Everyone!

I am wondering if anyone can help me with my issue.

I am currently running a T300RS GT + TH8A(Via Wheelbase, USB to Drivehub doesn't work) + Heusinkveld Ultimate 3 Pedals (Older Control Box) + Drivehub (Fw2.0.7) + PS5 +GT7

Everything runs perfectly with the Gas and Brake pedals (Gas has to be in Port 3, Brake in 2 and Clutch in 1 on Control Box. Even though HE says it doesn't matter what port you use)
until I introduce the clutch pedal. Once GT7 goes into "Full manual mode", the gas pedal acts up. in first gear, the car would accelerate slowly but in GT7 Hud, the Throttle isn't showing signs that its being pressed. If I just try to ignore and drive, the acceleration is jerky and feels like the clutch is slipping. Its like i am riding the clutch and over revving.

Using TH8A in "Auto-clutch mode" or using Paddles shifters, its works great.

Things I've tried:

- Calibrating Pedals with DiView(Doesn't seem to matter in GT7 as it calibrates the range in the pedals the first time you press them)

- I had the previous T3PA in "Inverted mode" so I plugged them back in and set it back to normal. Didn't make a difference.(I thought this would invert the HE hub but it didn't do anything)

- Heusinvelds control box connected to "Accessory Port" and Hori in "Controller" and T300RS directly to PS5 (Doesn't work, Can't register 2 controllers at once But T300RS and Dual sense works in case you're wondering.

- I know this doesn't makes sense but I tried it anyways.
Heusinvelds control box connected to "Accessory Port", T300RS In "Wheel", and Hori in "Controller" (Same Clutch problem and now T300RS has no Force Feedback.

I am out of ideas. Anyone got heusinkveld Sprint/Ultimate clutch pedal working in GT7?
 
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Does anyone know how to calibrate the pedals to this game? Throttle deadzone seems to be off. I notice a bit over 3/4 throttle on my pedal is full throttle in game. Is there a way to fix this?

I'm on the Fanatec CSL Elite Xbox version
 

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