Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter
- Thread starter VBR
- 3,706 comments
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- 4
- United States
Hmm im having weird framerate issues/stuttering with my DD+ in PS4 or ps4/ps5 mode while using my psvr2. Ps5 mode wont work with my pedals. Pc mode with hori controller works great except I lose rotary encoder support on my wheel which sucks.
Tried this on both my ps5 and ps5 pro.
Tried this on both my ps5 and ps5 pro.
- 30
Just to provide an update contacted support and we tried to work through a few things and in the end they sent me a new unit and I'm up and running with the setup now! First time playing GT again with a wheel since using a MadCatz wheel back in the PS1 days with GT1 & 2.
- 39
- United States
Fun bug I have… latest beta firmware. I’m using a Logitech G Pro (PS5 base) with a Simagic DX-8H shifter connected. For whatever reason the wheel disconnects and reconnects from the console every 10 or so minutes of playing. Then just continues to do this over and over again every minute or so. Every once in a while, after it reconnects, GT7 won’t recognize any button inputs but the base PS5 OS will recognize all the button inputs. Rebooting the game gets it to recognize everything properly again. But it’ll disconnect a minute or so after starting a race. When the system sees the controller (wheel) has reconnected, sometimes the wheel will violently jerk to the right.
Shutting down the entire system, rebooting everything seems to fix the issue until I’m racing again for 10 or so minutes.
Shutting down the entire system, rebooting everything seems to fix the issue until I’m racing again for 10 or so minutes.
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- 6
- Canada
Hey,
Wanted to see if anyone’s had the issue I’ve run in to. I emailed support last week but haven’t heard back.
My specs:
I’ve tried using all of the official firmware releases for the drivehub as well as several betas. My wheelbase is fully updated. I’ve tried using different ports on the ps5 and tried plugging the drivehub and controller in, in different orders.
I’ve tried holding down various buttons on the wheel to get it to work. I can feel the FFB when I try and turn the wheel but GT7 doesn’t detect a steering controller. I also have a Sparco wheel and tried that but no luck either.
Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated!
Wanted to see if anyone’s had the issue I’ve run in to. I emailed support last week but haven’t heard back.
My specs:
- Disk PS5
- Drivehub (factory cables)
- TS-PC wheelbase (stock open formula wheel)
- THPA Pro Pedals
- PS4 wired Hori fighting commander controller
I’ve tried using all of the official firmware releases for the drivehub as well as several betas. My wheelbase is fully updated. I’ve tried using different ports on the ps5 and tried plugging the drivehub and controller in, in different orders.
I’ve tried holding down various buttons on the wheel to get it to work. I can feel the FFB when I try and turn the wheel but GT7 doesn’t detect a steering controller. I also have a Sparco wheel and tried that but no luck either.
Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated!
- 15
- United States
I want that shifter but have not seen any reports of it actually working correctly with g pro ps5 base.
- 39
- United States
It’s really unfortunate since it’s a really good shifter. There are some minor gripes about it (throw length and having to swap the paddle up and down), but otherwise the hardware and feel is great. Though I don’t have any comparisons outside Logitech’s toy H-shifter and Thrustmaster’s TH8A that I used for roughly an hour a few years back.
I'm also hoping for SimJack UT support. I thought I could use Freejoy, but the controller that came with the Simjack UT pedals doesn't seem to be detected in Freejoy. The new calibration software for the UT's seems fine, and allows non-linear curves...so if it just had direct support in DriveHub, that would be perfect.
Drivehub is a great product BTW...I have setup 3 of them for friends. Fanatec CSR-E, CSW 2.5, DD1, all work well.
Drivehub is a great product BTW...I have setup 3 of them for friends. Fanatec CSR-E, CSW 2.5, DD1, all work well.
- 39
- United States
Did some more testing with the Simagic DS-8X. The disconnect/reconnect cycle is replicable if the shifter is in sequential mode.
I ran into some interesting bugs when the shifter was in H-shifter mode. It seems Non-deterministic. In one scenario, the shifter would stop registering the gear it was in properly. If the lever was in gears 1, 3, 5, or 7 it registered it as being in position 5; if the lever was in R, 2, 4, or 6 it registered it as being in position 6. Rebooted the game, ran a little longer and the wheel disconnected, or so I thought. It completely shut off. No inputs would work obviously. When the wheel shut off there was another huge jerk left.
I feel like there is likely some sort of memory bug going on which causes a crash or the DriveHub to access incorrect memory locations when sending data to the PS5. The only thing I haven’t tested so far is if I connect the shifter, but don’t use it (all of these tests thus far have involved me utilizing the shifter for every shift).
I’m not sure if it matters, but I’m running the Sardegna grind with the GR3 NSX GT500 car. I haven’t tried testing a different car/track combination for a long period of time to see if the bug happens in those scenarios.
I did email support on Sunday (but not with this new data I’ve gotten), hopefully they can respond soon.
Edit: Did a little more testing with the FK8 on Laguna Seca doing time trial. Can confirm similar issues can occur with one new one:
I ran into some interesting bugs when the shifter was in H-shifter mode. It seems Non-deterministic. In one scenario, the shifter would stop registering the gear it was in properly. If the lever was in gears 1, 3, 5, or 7 it registered it as being in position 5; if the lever was in R, 2, 4, or 6 it registered it as being in position 6. Rebooted the game, ran a little longer and the wheel disconnected, or so I thought. It completely shut off. No inputs would work obviously. When the wheel shut off there was another huge jerk left.
I feel like there is likely some sort of memory bug going on which causes a crash or the DriveHub to access incorrect memory locations when sending data to the PS5. The only thing I haven’t tested so far is if I connect the shifter, but don’t use it (all of these tests thus far have involved me utilizing the shifter for every shift).
I’m not sure if it matters, but I’m running the Sardegna grind with the GR3 NSX GT500 car. I haven’t tried testing a different car/track combination for a long period of time to see if the bug happens in those scenarios.
I did email support on Sunday (but not with this new data I’ve gotten), hopefully they can respond soon.
Edit: Did a little more testing with the FK8 on Laguna Seca doing time trial. Can confirm similar issues can occur with one new one:
- If using sequential, it will eventually disconnect the controller and then reconnect violently. This will repeat itself. Didn't run into the issue of unresponsive controller.
- If using H pattern, one of many things can happen. It can begin to read the incorrect gear, this time it read 3 (instead of 1, 3, 5, and 7) and 4 (instead of 2, 4, 6, and R). Disconnecting the shifter from the DriveHub and reconnecting will fix this issue. However, it can also cause the controller disconnect issue (same as the sequential) then reconnects violently a second later. Additionally, I did find out another issue that can occur when using H pattern, it will randomly shift you into neutral shortly after you've gotten into a gear. Seems very weird; I normally don't miss that many shifts like that but I guess you might be able to argue driver error?
- If you run with everything connected to the DriveHub without touching the shifter, it will run indefinitely without issues. This leads me to believe the use of the shifter is the culprit here and not the shifter just being there itself. Due the non-deterministic nature of the issue and the fact that issues arise much faster after the first issue happens, my gut still says it's a memory issue within the DriveHub itself causing glitches and possibly crashes.
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- 15
- United States
Thank you for the update. Please post again if there are any updates.
-hopeful future ds-8x enjoyer
- 1
- Canada
Long time DriveHub user ... wish I had known about this thread.
I was using DriveHub with a Logitech T150 and a Fanatec CS handbrake.
Just got a Moza R5. With the latest beta (I am not at the computer to the see the exact number) the DH recognizes it, and on my XBox Series, it works ... sorta.
The wheel turns hard right to and locks when engaged by a game. From there it can be turned right, but that is about it. Without touching the wheel, it is always turning right. The locking prevents turning the wheel left. Pedals and wheel buttons work fine. FFB seems good.
Even where calibration is available (DiRT Really 2.0) it can't be properly calibrated.
I think because of this turning right thing, it also ends up scrolling through menus and stuff.
[Edit to add:] I have tried AC, ACC, DiRT Rally 2.0, Forza Motorsport, Forza Horizon 5, and probably others on Series S. All have pretty much the same behaviour.
I was really hoping the R5 would work. Is there a particular firmware I should be using? Fanalogic or Fanatec mode?
Thanks. I'd like to figure this out one way or the other in case I need to return and get an R3. I'll try Collective Minds customer support, but though I'd try here first.
I was using DriveHub with a Logitech T150 and a Fanatec CS handbrake.
Just got a Moza R5. With the latest beta (I am not at the computer to the see the exact number) the DH recognizes it, and on my XBox Series, it works ... sorta.
The wheel turns hard right to and locks when engaged by a game. From there it can be turned right, but that is about it. Without touching the wheel, it is always turning right. The locking prevents turning the wheel left. Pedals and wheel buttons work fine. FFB seems good.
Even where calibration is available (DiRT Really 2.0) it can't be properly calibrated.
I think because of this turning right thing, it also ends up scrolling through menus and stuff.
[Edit to add:] I have tried AC, ACC, DiRT Rally 2.0, Forza Motorsport, Forza Horizon 5, and probably others on Series S. All have pretty much the same behaviour.
I was really hoping the R5 would work. Is there a particular firmware I should be using? Fanalogic or Fanatec mode?
Thanks. I'd like to figure this out one way or the other in case I need to return and get an R3. I'll try Collective Minds customer support, but though I'd try here first.
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Hi there, from all my reading this sounds like you need a genuine third party controller plugged into it as well as your wheel and accessories. Like a Hori minipad or Nacon Compact etc..
- 39
- United States
I want to confirm that my natively-supported PS5 wheel doesn’t count as a genuine controller? It does hook up and play fine for 10 minutes or so. The issues only start up when I physically start using the shifter. I can play indefinitely without issue if I don’t touch the shifter.
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- 39
- United States
To rule out power issues I did try out a powered USB hub with the DriveHub. The problem seemed to appear sooner than before. It’s likely not a power issue. I may roll back the firmware to an earlier version to see if any of them support the shifter properly while waiting for CollectiveMinds to get back to me. This will have to wait until tomorrow though.
I’m holding off on getting a controller for now since my wheel is native PS5 supported and I have no issues whatsoever when just using the wheel (no shifter) as I can play indefinitely without any hiccups. If CollectiveMinds does recommend a controller I’ll go ahead and try it. But I’m not convinced it’s the controller.
I’m holding off on getting a controller for now since my wheel is native PS5 supported and I have no issues whatsoever when just using the wheel (no shifter) as I can play indefinitely without any hiccups. If CollectiveMinds does recommend a controller I’ll go ahead and try it. But I’m not convinced it’s the controller.
- 34
- United States
This is not correct – it does count as a genuine controller.
The way you have it now should be fine. The PS (4 & 5) native wheels already have the required security chip in the wheel base, so a wired controller is NOT needed.
And I think this is specific to the Logitech Pro (and maybe other bases with different modes), but it should be placed in PS mode
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