Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

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what is the support email for Fanatec?
I keep trying to use their support link on their site but it doesn't seem to work. It just keeps getting stuck in the upload your invoice part.

And had anyone else that ordered from fanatec in the past before they got their new website figured out how to get their account moved from the EU store to the USA store.
I'm also not showing any purchases when I look at my orders on my account.

Really any help on how I can actually get in touch with the fanatec support would be great.
 
My CSP V2s came today and they're Fantastic! Only bad thing is the throttle pedal is way too light, I'll be changing that asap!
 
My CSP V2s came today and they're Fantastic! Only bad thing is the throttle pedal is way too light, I'll be changing that asap!

I've made about a half dozen mods to my CSV2 pedals so far. At the moment for the gas pedal I'm running two springs wound into one another.

Press your clutch by hand and compare it to the much softer stock gas pedal action. You wind up at about that level of gas pedal force using Hillman springs from a big box home improvement center plus the stock coils. I posted pics of that mod in the pedal thread. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8016329#post8016329 No side effects.

For more gas pedal force I'd be inclined to raising the clevis-pinned pivot however that also requires remounting the hall effect sensor box along with using shorter rods to go into the black housing in order to adjust travel. You can also shorten or lengthen travel via rod length changes at the stock pivot location too of course. The rods are just under 12 mm in diameter for the brakes and just under 10 mm for the clutch and gas and so I am using drill rod for that.

At the moment I am tweaking the ABS action. I've relocated the stock ABS motor to the pedal pad and rubber isolated that pad from the level arm. This helps localize and concentrate the force. And I've added a second motor from an old Sony dual shock (*very* similar motors….) and am making a little circuit to run that harder than the stock motor. By tuning the mutual RPMs I wind up with a beat action as they go in and out of sync with one another. That frequency is much lower than stock and so is much more like actual car ABS action, a nice benefit considering the near zero cost involved.
 
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I,ll probably go to home depot tonight and see if I can grab a spring like the Hillman springs.
Where would I get a shorter rod to adjust the travel on the throttle if I moved the pivot point up? Does fanatec sell tuning parts yet?
 
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Where would I get a shorter rod to adjust the travel on the throttle if I moved the pivot point up? Does fanatec sell tuning parts yet?

Don't bother, you will have a very difficult time finding a short rod. Even if you find one, the springs aren't really that strong stock and moving the thing up a notch or two probably wouldn't be worth the trouble. It would be a better idea to purchase a new spring as a replacement. Check here: http://www.mcmaster.com

They have about any spring you would want and they aren't expensive. Just pay attention to the sizes and spring rates.
 
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I,ll probably go to home depot tonight and see if I can grab a spring like the Hillman springs.
Where would I get a shorter rod to adjust the travel on the throttle if I moved the pivot point up? Does fanatec sell tuning parts yet?

As of yet, no CSP V.2 Tuning Kit has been released, but the accelerator spring is the same as the V.1, so the substitute accelerator springs bundled with CSP V.1 Tuning Kit will work.

...but Fanatec no longer sells the V.1 Tuning Kit, and it usually sells for considerably more than its original retail price of $50 when sold via eBay or Sim-related forums.

So if the Hillman spring mod really does work that is probably the cheaper/easier alternative, or just get a substitute spring of similar dimensions to the stock CSP accelerator that is stiffer from an outfit like McMastersCarr.

You can get the spring on and off for the accelerator using this same technique shown for inverting CSP V.1 pedals.

 
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As of yet, no CSP V.2 Tuning Kit has been released, but the accelerator spring is the same as the V.1, so the substitute accelerator springs bundled with CSP V.1 Tuning Kit will work.

...but Fanatec no longer sells the V.1 Tuning Kit, and it usually sells for considerably more than its original retail price of $50 when sold via eBay or Sim-related forums.

So if the Hillman spring mod really does work that is probably the cheaper/easier alternative, or just get a substitute spring of similar dimensions to the stock CSP accelerator that is stiffer from an outfit like McMastersCarr.

You can get the spring on and off for the accelerator using this same technique shown for inverting CSP V.1 pedals.



Springs can get tricky. Since they can do things like coil bind (preventing further travel). Or they can buckle sideways, just like the stock damper spring on the CSV2 brakes do, so they rub the body of the damper. You can't just go by spring rate either since the free length and installed length also matter.

I could not find an available everywhere spring that was cheaper than just siamesing a cheap generic Hillman into place with the stock throttle spring. They are for sale cheap at retail stores in 4-5 different nearby locations where I live.

But I will eventually use a higher pivot on the gas pedal and just cut some drill rod to my desired length (for any pivot used) to give me the desired travel and more travel effort options with which to play.
 
Going Hillman Style! Hillman Style... ;-)

Okay for those that are interested…here is some more information on the Hillman Gas Pedal Spring mod for V2 and (I think) V1 Club Sport pedals. This is for those that want a heavier gas pedal action. I used springs by Hillman sold in pairs in plastic bags at many local big box home improvement centers.

My very recent CSV2 sample shows that the rod over which the stock gas pedal spring lives is just under 10 mm in diameter. This shaft threads into the trunnion which is pinned in place into the gas pedal lever. The working length of the shaft excluding the portion threaded into the trunnion is 90 mm. It has a 1.72 mm thick clear plastic bump stop adhered to the end which lives in the black aluminum guide block. When the rod's plastic bumper hits the end of the bore in that aluminum block, the gas pedal cannot be depressed any further. A longer rod would reduce travel, a shorter rod would increase it. The different holes in the gas pedal lever change not only leverage but also need different rod lengths if the same travel is desired.

My gas pedal came with one spring which lived at a 2.15 inches / 54.62 mm installed length which corresponds to 0% throttle. It is compressed to 1.56 inches at wide open throttle. When removed this spring was found to have a 2.58 inch free length, .061 inch wire diameter, 0.589 inch outside diameter and 11.5 active coils. This leads to a 11.75 pound / inch spring rate.

When compressed a bit in the installed position (from 2.58 to 2.15 inches), the preload at the spring (not the pedal pad) is about 5 pounds. With leverage from the brake lever the initial amount of force needed to start travel will be less than 5 pounds. I am leaving that effect out and simply considering the springs. The percentage changes will be the same in any case.

When fully compressed at 100% throttle the force the spring provides from its rate + preload is then 11.985 pounds.

The Hillman Spring I used (only two compression springs are carried by my local home improvement stores) measured 3.00 inches free length, and had .063 inch wire, 12 coils and a 0.689 inch OD. So that spring rate came to 7.688 #/inch. At 0% throttle (if used alone) the preload is 6.53 pounds. This is more than stock despite the spring rate being lower since the Hillman spring has a longer free length than stock. I am not interested in using this spring alone since after you overcome the preload, the spring rate is lower than stock which was not the direction I desired.

By siamesing the coils I mean screwing them into one another coaxially. This works just fine in this case as there is sufficient room. So you can then add their effects directly as the springs are in parallel with each other. They also tend to support one another's buckling tendencies. You could also mess with preload by not fully engaging them lengthwise (longer assembly) but I did not go there.

With both springs installed the initial preload comes to 11.53 pound at the springs. This is 2.3 times or 130% more than stock. Floored the force comes to 23.05 pounds which is 92% more than stock.

A cool detail is that the magnet for the hall effect sensor lives in one end of the clevis pin. And this pin gets specially located by an indent in its middle into which the trunnion's set screw will press.

To do this mod you remove the Hall effect sensor by unscrewing it's three allen fasteners. Don't lose the white plastic spacers. Then loosen the trunnion set screw several turns. Press out the pin from the end without a magnet. Now the spring loaded trunnion pops out. It can be removed by pushing it in slightly so that it can clear the rod on which all the pedals pivot. So the trunnion would come out the bottom of the device. Make sure things are lubed when you reassemble.

The only tricky part is that the magnet pin needs to be inserted through the trunnion so that the set screw can engage the divot along its center.

HTH.

hillmanstyle_zpsb711b4fb.png
 
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No springs at Home Deopt, Ill have to try lowes tomorrow.

Try the hardware aisle, near where they have all those drawers of different nuts and bolts. They were about 30 feet away from the drawers for me. I could not find springs at first as noone buys them or knew about them in these 10 acre stores lol. Most of the springs they had were tension springs, you need compression springs. So they had only two (2) options there.
 
Try the hardware aisle, near where they have all those drawers of different nuts and bolts. They were about 30 feet away from the drawers for me. I could not find springs at first as noone buys them or knew about them in these 10 acre stores lol. Most of the springs they had were tension springs, you need compression springs. So they had only two (2) options there.

Alright Ill check again, Yea the only guy I could find to help showed me the springs for things like porch swings that where expansion only. Hope I can find itHome Depot is 5 mins away and Lowes is 13 miles away.

Also to move the travel of the pedals up you need to move up the sensor because of the way it works with magnet in the pin. So you just cant cut the rod shorter - I was ready to cut it tonight. :rolleyes:
 
Alright Ill check again, Yea the only guy I could find to help showed me the springs for things like porch swings that where expansion only. Hope I can find itHome Depot is 5 mins away and Lowes is 13 miles away.

Also to move the travel of the pedals up you need to move up the sensor because of the way it works with magnet in the pin. So you just cant cut the rod shorter - I was ready to cut it tonight. :rolleyes:

If you get stuck I can buy some springs and send them to you.

Yeah the Hall sensor is threaded into the side of the pedal and there is only one set of holes for it, the ones in use stock. The magnet in the end of the clevis pin rotates under the hall sensor as the gas pedal is actuated. Halls like being used in that manner.

You could shorten the travel of the gas pedal with a spacer in the aluminum guide block, however I have not done so.

I may redo the articulation of the various pedals to cut down on all the side effects that adjustment now includes. For instance changing the clevis pin hole you are using should not end Hall sensing or change travel necessarily. A better set of compromises with fewer side effects appears possible.

I already have my brake pedal adjustable to three positions on the lever, this involved moving the ABS motor to the pedal pad and clearancing the adjustable spring perch on the brake damper device (it would rub the aluminum guide block).

I made some quick release clevis pins so far, and need some holes drilled, some drill rod for actuation rods, some PU foam. Maybe some adjustable length rods too, or another pivot point. It would be nice to be able to quickly adjust initial brake action before resistance goes high, directly. Things like that.
 
Hello everybody, it is a while since my last post. I had great moments with rFactor2 but since a few weeks I do not recognize my CSR Elite anymore. It feels coggy, sandy. Do you now a way to check if one of the two motors die ? The wheel feels brutal, like sending FFB with steps. Not smooth anymore, not accurate at all.
 
Turn the wheel on and connect it to a PC, PS3, or xbox. Then turn the Sens setting on the wheel down to 90 or whatever the lowest setting is. Then turn the wheel until you reach the "soft stop" (where it gets hard to turn) Then slowly turn past this. If a motor is burned up, you will feel sort of a "lumpy" feeling where the force alternates between strong and weak. It will be quite prominent and repeating as you turn but only when the wheel is resisting being turned.

If it does this, submit a request to Fanatec right away.
 
When I turn my CSRE beyond the soft lock as you say... My wheel reboots itself. Does this mean there is something wrong? I've always just avoided turning beyond this lock or powering up the ffb. I don't get that sensation you describe though.
 
Hmm that's odd...

These are the instructions Fanatec gives for testing this:

1. set the wheel to 90°
2. stay in windows (they mean to say have the wheel bound to the PC)
3. turn the wheel past 90°
4. show on the video if you can feel any "steps" when you turn it

It should not be rebooting unless that is a new firmware "safety feature." Maybe they added that to keep wheels from killing themselves when left connected to the xbox unattended.

If your wheel works fine otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it. The notchy/cogging feeling is quite apparent when it happens.
 
Turn the wheel on and connect it to a PC, PS3, or xbox. Then turn the Sens setting on the wheel down to 90 or whatever the lowest setting is. Then turn the wheel until you reach the "soft stop" (where it gets hard to turn) Then slowly turn past this. If a motor is burned up, you will feel sort of a "lumpy" feeling where the force alternates between strong and weak. It will be quite prominent and repeating as you turn but only when the wheel is resisting being turned.

If it does this, submit a request to Fanatec right away.

just tried this Bash at 'soft stop' it vibrates like going over ripples turn past that smooth or nothingness lol
 
If a motor is burned up, you will feel sort of a "lumpy" feeling where the force alternates between strong and weak. It will be quite prominent and repeating as you turn but only when the wheel is resisting being turned.

If it does this, submit a request to Fanatec right away.

It would be interesting if some one, who unfortunetly has this issue, could post a video in this thread for us to see ( and maybe better understand) what does the "lumpy" feeling look like.
 
I have a video but it was done for someone else... and the video was sent to Fanatec so I don't really want to post it. :) Somebody out there must have a video of it though, and can post it.
 
just tried this Bash at 'soft stop' it vibrates like going over ripples turn past that smooth or nothingness lol

That means you don't have the issue yet ;) and hopefully never will.

I wouldn't recommend doing this though guys, at least not often. It places a constant maximum load on the motors while you are past the bump stop. That is why they have you test it that way. Only do it if you think you have the problem or preferably only if they ask you to do it.
 
I would not mind seeing some motor autopsies. To know for sure what failed and why and under what conditions of use.

Various Mabuchi motors have an expected lifetime of about 300-2000 hours before they'll need a swap out. These are nonrebuildable "can" motors of no great expense. You don't really repair or rebuild them, you just load in a new can and get on with it.

Here is a voltage versus life test that a robot guy did for some little motors he overvolted quite a bit…they were simply run until they dropped…he also disassembled the motors in new, used, and now-dead states…hey they only cost him a dollar and change apiece:

motortest_zpsf8326ed2.png


Tests: http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J11
 
Given that Fanatec always wants the wheels back "in one piece" it's unlikely we will get to see one of the motors taken apart anytime soon.

What I would like to see is less people needing their wheel replaced. Anything else is just detracts from the real issue. There is a problem and it needs fixing... By Fanatec.
 
Oh I will take one apart, if I can ever kill it. It's doing great at 30 volts so far. So that is about 25% more power than stock. Feels livelier in hand.

I have six spares that are "close enough" in spec to load in if need be.
 
I would not mind seeing some motor autopsies. To know for sure what failed and why and under what conditions of use.

Oh I will take one apart, if I can ever kill it. It's doing great at 30 volts so far. So that is about 25% more power than stock. Feels livelier in hand.

This would have been a more appropriate statement then:

I would not mind doing some motor autopsies. To know for sure what failed and why and under what conditions of use. Such as running the motor in a non-standard configuration in a single motor wheel.
 
I've tried conacting Fanatec through their site and an email someone in here gave me. No respnsoe from them on one for almost a week and the other 3 days. Does anyone know how I can transfer my original EU account to a U.S. account?
I'm also getting blue screens when I use the BMW rim but not the formula rim. How weird is that. Hopefully I hear from them soon because the BMW rim is useless for me right now. It will work for around 30 minutes to an hour and then blues screens my PC. The formula rim though can be played with for hours on end with no problems.
 
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