Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

  • Thread starter Crispy
  • 13,388 comments
  • 1,339,829 views
I've been archiving Fanatec firmware, though I'm not sure I have every single release. The release I have before 706 is 681. Here are the notes:

Submitted by Thomas on Mon, 10/25/2010 - 06:55.
Here is the latest Firmware for

911 Turbo S
911 Carrera
911 GT3RS V2
Change log

New manual
fixed bug in Tuning menu: Values were interfereing
NEW Function: "dPr"
This value changes the damper signal which comes from the game. It is very effective on games with too much damper like WRC. Works in X360 and PS3 mode.
It is different from the drift mode which changes the overall damper which is independent of the game.

As ususal, this FW is just BETA and you install it on your own risk.



UPDATE: If you need to calibrate the center you need to use the same button combo on all the three mentioned wheels.

Go to PC mode. First press the two lower left buttons and then the base button.

Check the PWTS manual if you have problems.

UPDATE 2: Please do NOT use the calibration function of the driver anymore if you have a PWGT3RS V2. This function only works for the V1.

UDATE 3: Added manual for theRF dongle bootloader
 
Has anyone else had any issues with the navigation stick on their CSW BMW wheel? Or any fanatec wheel?
Mine has started to act up, when scrolling in menus it turns on the LED screen and even acts like the X button and will select and make changes on screen in game.
I think I've read about this happening to other fanatec wheels but can't remember if anyone had this issue on the CSW.
It's an RMA case right?
 
Has anyone else had any issues with the navigation stick on their CSW BMW wheel? Or any fanatec wheel?
Mine has started to act up, when scrolling in menus it turns on the LED screen and even acts like the X button and will select and make changes on screen in game.
I think I've read about this happening to other fanatec wheels but can't remember if anyone had this issue on the CSW.
It's an RMA case right?

Weird, but definitely RMA as it is normal behaviour.

You're quite unlucky with your Fanatec gear, Mark. After two dozen of motor packs now this issue creeps up. :(
 
Weird, but definitely RMA as it is normal behaviour.

You're quite unlucky with your Fanatec gear, Mark. After two dozen of motor packs now this issue creeps up. :(

Yeah I know mate. I have some thinking to do, not sure if I'm prepared to spend another year getting to know Johannes Kirsch.
I'm in the process of RMA with the base and now the BMW rim
jiFfM.jpg
 
Yeah I know mate. I have some thinking to do, not sure if I'm prepared to spend another year getting to know Johannes Kirsch.

LOL, been there, done that, quite an amiable fellow though. ;)
Even sent him a little token of appreciation for his efforts.
I imagine it must be a challenging job for him at times.

Hope you get it sorted out with minimal downtime.
 
Last edited:
Does he have a red hotline to your house already, Mark? Like the White House to the Kremlin? lol

All jokes aside it just sucks having issue upon issue. No matter you buy or from what manufacturer it is.

My dad had to ship his brand new Akai Dolby Pro Logic back about 4 or 5 times with the issue of speakers dropping out. Dolby Pro Logic just came out in the 90's at the time.
Each time the receiver came back from Akai in China or Japan saying everything was fine, nothing wrong with the unit.
In the end he owned a product for about a good year and only was able to enjoy it for a full month only. After which he saved up money and got himself a Yamaha AV-receiver with JBL 5.1 speaker set a few years later after the Akai got so bad that multiple speakers failed at once.

Also he had a Grundig VHS recorder as well. Thing kept eating batteries to store BIOS info like mad. Result was that every time it would fall into its child locking mechanism and it than picked a random security number.
We replaced the battery 4 or 5 times, but at some point we just had to say "enough is enough".
On the other hand our Grundig 4:3 CRT television only once had issues with the on/off button and due repeated dropping of the remote... the remote failed. Other than that it worked for a good 14 years! So it doesn't have to be a brand/manufacturer thing in all cases either.

Moral of the stories. No matter where you go or what kind of thing you buy, there will always be something that ends up never working as it should. Sometimes the repair service fails, other times the product fails on the same issue even after replacement by certified service centers.
This goes on until you reach your own personal threshold of "enough is enough" and go look for (which for you personally are) better/newer alternatives, at least if they exist. Something that doesn't have to be the case due to personal demands and requirements after all.

Anyway, good luck! :)
 
Sorry for the naive question, but I assume those are not the stock ones? If so, PM with a $.

Nope, not stock. I'm modding this person's pulleys, motors, mounts and supplying new board spacers so everything fits and works. He'll need to pick up his own higher capacity power supply. I'm working on a possible cooling system that will be more suitable also, but don't know if he'll be adding that or not yet. Did you want a price for a mod motor package Paskowitz? The motors right now are something I've been sourcing used, so they can be hit or miss on availability. They can be gotten new, but they are about $120 each new.

Happy holidays to you guys as well!
 
I would rather buy new, as that way I will feel they will last a bit longer. Especially since you don't know their previous application and how they have been used and have worn from that said use.
If there is one thing I want than it would be the reliability that I can use them for a good period without worries. Which comes down to amount of wear and quality of a product.


Happy and healthy holidays to everyone!
 
For what it's worth: To their credit, every one I've bought "used" listed as surplus was either brand new or near enough as not to make a difference. I've peeked inside the cans of the 6 I've bought and the 2 from the guy I'm modding for and they are all fresh...brushes still have their full-depth serrations and the comms look great.
 
@Simmpa
Although I don't speak swedish, I understand that he says in his text that it works with everything, including Xbox. Seems that seller doesn't really know what he is selling or just trying to tempt more people to buy it.
 
@Simmpa
Although I don't speak swedish, I understand that he says in his text that it works with everything, including Xbox. Seems that seller doesn't really know what he is selling or just trying to tempt more people to buy it.

My biggest concern is that if there would be failure after some time and I ain´t granted a new CSW unit becuse I am not the original buyer. I know some companies that sell graphics cards like EVGA allows the warranty to pass by to the new owner but does Fanatec allows this to?
 

Well I found no info on Fanatecs website, but I sent a mail to the guy who sells the stuff if he knows anything about it. I think of actually buying it 5500kr(846usd) for both unit, rim and CSP compared if I would buy it new 8500kr(1307usd) thats a heck of a deal.
 
I don't know where the info is exactly, or if it was just confirmed in this thread by Thomas but, I know for sure that the warranty carries over.
I sold my CSR Elite a few months back and sent the receipt to the buyer at the time, and then again recently.....Obviously the wheel developed an issue.
 
Hey guys i need help. When connected directly to the wheel, my Clubsport Pedals don't work on the CSW. They randomly spike signals everywhere meaning that I can't use them. Now when I plug the pedals directly to PC then they work just fine. Anybody know what might be wrong?
 
Hey guys i need help. When connected directly to the wheel, my Clubsport Pedals don't work on the CSW. They randomly spike signals everywhere meaning that I can't use them. Now when I plug the pedals directly to PC then they work just fine. Anybody know what might be wrong?

I remember that you should not have USB and the other connector pluged together. Sometimes unplugging everything fixes bad connexion.
 
I remember that you should not have USB and the other connector pluged together. Sometimes unplugging everything fixes bad connexion.

That. Plus I found that the PS/2 connectors weren't always that relyable either. Disconnecting and reconnecting the PS/2 end on the PS/2->RJ45 adapter most often already helped for me with most issues.
 
@K_Soze @LogiForce It doesn't seem to be either of those things, which is odd. Just a week ago it was working fine with my CSR Elite, perhaps I should swap the cables and see if I notice a difference?
 
I have the 706 firmware for the csr (as well as csr elite). That said, I'm almost positive that they are the same firmware. As novadave said the innards are almost identical, but there are minor differences.
With all of that said, are you sure you want to go with the 706b fw? It lacks the auto clutch macro functionality (which doubles as an auto-blip if you so desire it to), and the ffb is best (in my opinion) in some of the latter firmware. Though for the ps3 it basically just emulates a g25, and I doubt fanatec has tweaked that part of the firmware since release.. Just my $.02
 
Back