Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

  • Thread starter Crispy
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Fanatec...
It means that this statement is still valid. We will make sure that we keep you on the virtual road as long as possible and provide spareparts as long as possible.
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Hmm, that is interesting. FatnSlo just told me in a private conversation that he was told by Fanatec customer service that they won't sell him motors at all. How would you call that providing spare parts? I'll let him expound upon his discussion with Fanatec CS.
 
eKretz
Hmm, that is interesting. FatnSlo just told me in a private conversation that he was told by Fanatec customer service that they won't sell him motors at all. How would you call that providing spare parts? I'll let him expound upon his discussion with Fanatec CS.
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Note to self: Do not do confession with Father Kretz.
 
Fanatec...
It means that this statement is still valid. We will make sure that we keep you on the virtual road as long as possible and provide spareparts as long as possible.
Click to expand...

This is not what I was told when inquiring about purchasing the motor block for the Fanatec CSR-E.

Here is my correspondence. This was initiated through the Fanatec website.


[Sent to Fanatec on 11/29/13]
Hello, I would like to inquire if the force feedback motor pack used in the CSR-Elite and CSW wheels
can be purchased from Fanatec. As you are well aware these motors will fail and it would be nice to be
able to have spares on hand. Thanks for your help!


[Reply received from Fanatec on 12/3/13]
Hi Steven,


thank you for your enquiry.

I’m sorry, but we unfortunately can’t provide motor blocks for sale.

These motors need to be used for customer wheel’s that needs to be repaired.


Thank you for your understanding



Best Regards / Mit freundlichen Grüßen



Johannes Kirsch

(Fanatec Support Team)

[My reply to Fanatec on 12/3/13]
Hi Johannes,



Will you at least sell the raw motors (not the motor block)?

I have only ever been able to get about six months of use out of these motors before they fail. And that is using the wheel at about %50 of it’s FFB strength.

It will be ridiculous if you do not offer to at least sell customers these motors for wheels that are out of warranty.

These wheels are just too expensive to be a throw away item once the cheap motors you chose to use fail.



Regards,
Steve

[Reply received from Fanatec on 12/11/13]
Hi Steve,



thank you for your reply.

I’m really sorry, but we also can’t provide the raw motor. Therefore we would have to dissemble an existing motorblock.

In case, there would be a defect after the warranty, we also provide a service. When we make such a service, we usually charge a service fee and the used spare parts also will be charged.



Thank you for your understanding



Best Regards / Mit freundlichen Grüßen



Johannes Kirsch


(Fanatec Support Team)
 
According to swedish consumer law if a product fails with the same fault a third time the company has to offer to repair it or offer a full refund as it´s an original fault :). Within 3 years that is but even if the product has a claimed warranty of 1 year.

German law may differ and it may fall on it´s supposed to be an original fault where ffb engines may be seen as wear and tear :)
 
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This is very concerning, is it a huge issue of the BMW rim with the paddle shifters? Or have it been fixed since this review was done?

I did find it slightly ironic that while the GT paddles were too far away, the paddles on the Formula rim are too close. Even for my small hands, long races with repeated shifting became uncomfortable as I developed “claw fingers”.

Once again, there isn’t as much adjustment as the screw slots suggest, but Conny discovered that by inverting the paddles around things worked much better. I would recommend that almost everyone applies this simple mod. The paddles are a little short in length but with only one grip location on the rim i never found this to be a problem. The engagement of the paddles is much more positive that the GT rim and work faultlessly with a satisfying clunk when you hit the stops.
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http://simhqmotorsports.com/fanatec-clubsport-wheel/
 
Simmpa
This is very concerning, is it a huge issue of the BMW rim with the paddle shifters? Or have it been fixed since this review was done?



http://simhqmotorsports.com/fanatec-clubsport-wheel/
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This is not an issue at all for me. I race with the F1 wheel all the time for hours at a time, and I'm 6'3" (can easily palm a basketball, I don't have small hands). If this were an issue with most folks, I'd think it'd have come to light in more places.

The CSR Elite I used to have, on the other hand, have me some hand cramping issues because of the way the plate part of the wheel covers the area where your fingers naturally fall. That's why I cut that section of the plate out on mine.
 
eKretz
This is not an issue at all for me. I race with the F1 wheel all the time for hours at a time, and I'm 6'3" (can easily palm a basketball, I don't have small hands). If this were an issue with most folks, I'd think it'd have come to light in more places.

The CSR Elite I used to have, on the other hand, have me some hand cramping issues because of the way the plate part of the wheel covers the area where your fingers naturally fall. That's why I cut that section of the plate out on mine.
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But you never used the BMW? As I have no interest in F1 I would only buy the BMW wheel if I would buy the CSW. But the paddle shifters distance could be a problem for me.
 
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No, I haven't had the chance to try the BMW wheel, I instead have 2 F1 wheels and am going to make my own road wheel using one of them as a donor at a later date.
 
I have no problems with the BMW rim's paddle in the default position. Granted I have big hands.

Also, I finally got my CSS SQ. It is sweeeeeeet!
 
CFD3Captain
I thought the paddles were adjustable to get closer or further away from your hands/wheel?
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They are adjustable. They can be completely removed and also you can reverse mount them if you like. Plus you could make your own paddles if you so desire and screw them on there. Same goes for the formula rim paddles. They too are removeable, replaceable and you can reverse mount them.

Also I have small (uk size 9) hands. I know that because of my Sparco gloves, and I don't have issues with reaching for the paddles.
 
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LogiForce
They are adjustable. They can be completely removed and also you can reverse mount them if you like. Plus you could make your own paddles if you so desire and screw them on there. Same goes for the formula rim paddles. They too are removeable, replaceable and you can reverse mount them.

Also I have small (uk size 9) hands. I know that because of my Sparco gloves, and I don't have issues with reaching for the pedals.
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Quite impressive you can reach your pedals ;)
 
Well hopefully I didn't just make the worst decision ever and bought the Porsche GT3 RS V2 kit. Especially with all the talk surrounding compatibility with the next gen systems. This is my first wheel though so I'm just excited to get into everything. I don't see myself buying a PS4 or Xbox One anytime soon. I may actually get a PS3 (I had a very 1st gen, 60GB, sold it years ago...) so that I can play GT6. They are so cheap now!

I'm mainly a PC racer but do have an Xbox 360 with Forza 4. It's not very "sim" though as I'm sure most of you would agree.

My email transctions with Fanatec prior to purchase have been great. They took about just 12hrs to respond to the 1st email, then replies after were within minutes. I have read the frustrations of the past with support after an order, hopefully thats a thing of the past.

So for $259 seems like a good deal to me. The $359 CSR kit may have seemed the most logical since I have an Xbox but gah, I just don't really like that rim and the plastic top.
 
Raitziger
Any idea what firmware GT2 and turbo S wheels users should install to get GT6 fix?

I do not really know if the curb FFB is bad or broken.
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I know this is an old post, but I was messing about with the FW on Fanatec CSR (which is the same electronically as the GT2), and the best FFB by far was on Firmware 706. I tried 756, but it gave me this very odd loose sensation, with very little feedback, like what a lot of people were describing in this thread. Now I feel most rumble strips (some wierdly still have no feeling), I can feel the bumps and the camber changes on the road, and I can feel weight transfer if I sway the car left to right. GT6 feels really good now, much better than Forza 4, ironically, as that was what the wheel was branded for.

Also, for the settings, setting drift to 3 seems to almost "amplify" the FFB a bit, it makes the cars feel more alive; however, spring, damper, linearity should be set to 0 as spring/damper don't do much, and they all kill the FFB a little. Whats very important is in-game FFB should not be set lower than 5! I noticed a big drop off in FFB effects on 4 or lower. Similarly, FFB settings on the wheel shouldn't be set to lower than 70.

I played around with the FFB settings and found my sweet spot at in game FFb at 5, wheel FFB at 80. Most people have been saying that you should always keep your wheel FFB setting at 100, but really I felt little difference between 100 - 70. When trying to find what you like best use in-game FFb settings as a rough tune, then fine tune it with on-wheel settings.

I did all my testing on road cars, however, so race cars probably need a slightly different setup. Remember all this is only for FW 706!
 
LogiForce
Temporary Solution: Bad FFB CSW in GT6

Guys, I found the (temp) fix for our GT6 FFB issue.
What you need to do is flash back your CSW to Firmware v32.

Firmwares: http://eu.fanatec.com/RacingWheels/ClubSportWheelBaseEU


The following difference between firmware v32 and v37 are the key to this fix.

Firmware 32: Emulation of Logitech G25 in PS3 Mode (no working rev lights (G25 didn't have any))
Firmware 37: Emulation of Logitech G27 in PS3 Mode (with working rev lights)


So what this means is that basically the G25 works fine and has a working Simulation FFB mode in GT6, while the G27 users have a messed up Simulation FFB mode in GT6.
This means that when you flash back you loose the rev lights, but I shift on hear or the on screen light instead myself. So I rather have a working FFB system instead so I can enjoy the game.

So all you got to do is download the firmware from the Fanatec site, follow the documented instructions included in the ZIP archive.
Make sure that after you rebooted your wheel you...

a) Reset your profile by holding down the tuning menu button while S_1 is displayed
b) Recalibrate the center of the wheel by putting the wheel in the center and hitting both thumb sticks while S_1 is being displayed
c) Recalibrate your H-shifter
d) Please don't forget to enjoy GT6 :)

Personally I initially used Simulation, with Powersteering, Strength 10 in game and on the wheel FOR 100. Which equals to about the same feel I had with the T500, though I feel that the T500 is slightly sharper/spiky'er on the curb rumble in general (so not game related, but device firmware related).

Edit: Decided to go to Simulation, no Powersteering, Strength 8 instead. With powersteering the wheel goes silly light and strength 10 felt like it was clipping from the game. Better to leave some room in the game and adjust on the wheel instead if desired.

Anyways... happy driving guys. :gtpflag:
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Got any other tips..?

Going back to V32 helped a bit with the curbs but i'm purely driving on the tires screaming around every corner, I can't feel anything like understeer or loss of grip in the CSW (BWM rim).
 
eKretz
No, I haven't had the chance to try the BMW wheel, I instead have 2 F1 wheels and am going to make my own road wheel using one of them as a donor at a later date.
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Great idea eKretz , I have the two wheels BMW+F1 Rim, not like the BMW is very large and heavy, the paddles shifter is far from the steering wheel, and buttons too.

So, I'll try to modify the BMW rim to make it smaller and lighter!

Happy christmas :gtpflag:friends !
 
bladezzz
Got any other tips..?

Going back to V32 helped a bit with the curbs but i'm purely driving on the tires screaming around every corner, I can't feel anything like understeer or loss of grip in the CSW (BWM rim).
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Nope. The other tip is... buy a T500 or wait for PD to fix it by transfering the G25/27 users to the FFB system the T500 now uses. Its simply a complete different experience on the T500 after all.

This is where the T500 or basically Thrustmaster wins over the Fanatec wheels mostly, proper game support. Thrustmaster has been able to stay ahead of Fanatec in my opinion in this department. Especially now both PD and T10 went Thrustmaster as their official wheel suppliers for their latest titles.
 
Problem is those console racers is several generations behind so does it really matter? I still enjoy GT6 because I enjoy racing but it´s several generations behind Assetto Corsa in regard of just about everything really but the lunar physics perhaps :)

So the answer is get a PC and stick with your Fanatec gear if you so wish. They just like the T500RS perform a lot better there.
 
LogiForce
Nope. The other tip is... buy a T500 or wait for PD to fix it by transfering the G25/27 users to the FFB system the T500 now uses. Its simply a complete different experience on the T500 after all.

This is where the T500 or basically Thrustmaster wins over the Fanatec wheels mostly, proper game support. Thrustmaster has been able to stay ahead of Fanatec in my opinion in this department. Especially now both PD and T10 went Thrustmaster as their official wheel suppliers for their latest titles.
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Tnx but no tnx, I've had 2 T500's but both didn't live longer than 6 months :ouch:

Let's hope PD (or Fanatec) can fix it because it's very frustrating, I can't or want to drive like this ;)
 
oqvist
Problem is those console racers is several generations behind so does it really matter? I still enjoy GT6 because I enjoy racing but it´s several generations behind Assetto Corsa in regard of just about everything really but the lunar physics perhaps :)

So the answer is get a PC and stick with your Fanatec gear if you so wish. They just like the T500RS perform a lot better there.
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That was my other option...Rfactor2 was in my mind but I just like the simplicity of a console..
 
Rfactor2 IMHO was huge waste of money for me. I bought it over a year ago, because it was sounding like the game was close to being finished. :banghead: My fault I guess, but it really is becoming a sticking point for me. I paid a lot of money for nothing, because that's basically what your getting out of rfactor2 at this time. To me it seems their waiting on the modding community to finish their game and the modders are moving on to bigger and better things.
 
bladezzz
Tnx but no tnx, I've had 2 T500's but both didn't live longer than 6 months :ouch:

Let's hope PD (or Fanatec) can fix it because it's very frustrating, I can't or want to drive like this ;)
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Mine (T500) is two years old now I think. Maybe I am just lucky with it.

Maybe Fanatec can ride on the T500 driver instead. It is a belt driven wheel, so the effect responses are closer to the CSW as the gear driven G25/27. Although I think that chance is small. For the rest it is mostly up to PD I think.
 
Even the T500RS FFB in is mediocre at best. The effects are very unbalanced. In order to feel the subtle effects the overall steering weight and FFB power has to be turned down too far. Then when you do turn it up it feels like driving a tractor.
 
paskowitz
Even the T500RS FFB in is mediocre at best. The effects are very unbalanced. In order to feel the subtle effects the overall steering weight and FFB power has to be turned down too far. Then when you do turn it up it feels like driving a tractor.
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Really? I still feel the T500 is too weak. We should all start to drive cars without powersteering again in real life. Than we wouldn't be overpowered that easily by a sim wheel.

What do you compare the FFB with to judge it as mediocre though? I think it is pretty good for the simple tyre model that PD uses, even when the FFB does not seem to directly fall out of the tyre model and car geometry. Currently it feels as if it goes through a standard rack that is hooked up to the tyre model and geometry. The reason I say this is because the cars still feel roughly the same, even when the response is different. There just isn't any individual character that falls out of the cars geometry and so on.

But yeah sure, everything can improve but I doubt this game will improve much on this console... the PS3. There is no room in the hardware resources to do more with it.
 
Raitziger
Thanks! Now I just need to source the 706 version from somewhere. (might still be stored in my hard drive)
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You could contact fanatec for it, or download it from their official site, it's under fanatec CSR, but since you have a GT2 wheel that could mean it doesn't work, however, the GT2 should be the same exact wheel as the CSR, just a differant skin.
 
Firmware # 706 is for the CSR only as the CSR and GT2 are not 100% the same.
the difference between the two is in the wheel rim circuit board.
 

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