Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

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K_Soze
Yes, I have posted a video of my settings. I am still enjoying GT6 a lot especially with old cars like GT40 or old Ferraris...

I don't feel any "coggyness" at all.
Click to expand...
I saw your video and used your settings, my nightmare however continues :( :(

The only solution so far to eliminate the jolty, coggy mess is to set For to 0 ( ZERO ) :yuck: :yuck: :yuck:

And that can't be right.

Would I be right in thinking a replacement wouldn't be available till the end of May, effectively putting me at the back of the queue?
 
here it comes...

1dcah.jpg
 
My current settings to limit "coggyness" are,
In Game ,Steering Characteristics- Simulation, Power-Assist - Off, Force Feedback Max. Torque - 1, Force Feedback Sensitivity - 8,
On Wheel, Sen - Off, FF - 78, Sho - Off, Abs - Off, Lin - Off, Dea - Off, Dri - 002, For - 030, Spr - Off, Dpr - Off,

Car used - Honda NSX Type R '02 non-tuned, Tyres - RH,
Track - Red Bull Ring,

Would someone care to try these I would appreciate the feedback, thanks.
 
Ordered November 14 Canada

Hello Aaron,


Thanks for your message.


All the units will be shipped out today. You will get an email confirmation once it ships from the warehouse.


Have a good day!
 
MRMR37
My hunch tells me no. My day old wheel doesn't centre itself on start up.
Click to expand...

My replacement wheel arrived with firmware 065 already installed so I did nothing until now. Mine was off center a small amount on start up too and it did not seem to effect function in game. So today I reinstalled the 065 firmware and did the calibration, now it centers fine on startup.

Download the full manual and check settings. I know it mentions if spr is 000 the wheel will not center. If you still fell you have a defective wheel contact Fanatec they usually repair and have decent turnaround.

I will plug your above settings in later and let you know.

Cheers.
Edit, after calibrating center there is no more oscillation at center and no need for any dea adjustment. And soze's settings are very nice.

Link to manual http://www.fanatec.com/download/CSW...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet
 
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MRMR37
I saw your video and used your settings, my nightmare however continues :( :(

The only solution so far to eliminate the jolty, coggy mess is to set For to 0 ( ZERO ) :yuck: :yuck: :yuck:

And that can't be right.

Would I be right in thinking a replacement wouldn't be available till the end of May, effectively putting me at the back of the queue?
Click to expand...

If there's a problem, they will try to repair it first before replacement. My repair took about 4 weeks from the day I shipped it until I received it here in the US. That being said, it was a 4 working day ship time each way included in that.
 
@Blkout is correct, if you feel like you have a problem do not hesitate to contact Fanatec. Their customer service is great, they even have a chat available now.

The first wheel I received would not spin free when off. I don't recall what wheel trouble @Blkout had, but I think it's safe to say we are satisfied with our purchase.

Regarding notchyness in GT6, I ran some of the new seasonal's, the ones on hard tires and they felt fantastic. For me it is the softer tires and cars with higher downforce that impart that jumpy feel. It actually reminds me of washboard roads in my baja bug. Plus for some reason in GT6 painted lines are big bumps at some tracks in some cars.
 
MRMR37
My current settings to limit "coggyness" are,
In Game ,Steering Characteristics- Simulation, Power-Assist - Off, Force Feedback Max. Torque - 1, Force Feedback Sensitivity - 8,
On Wheel, Sen - Off, FF - 78, Sho - Off, Abs - Off, Lin - Off, Dea - Off, Dri - 002, For - 030, Spr - Off, Dpr - Off,

Car used - Honda NSX Type R '02 non-tuned, Tyres - RH,
Track - Red Bull Ring,

Would someone care to try these I would appreciate the feedback, thanks.
Click to expand...


Tried these and merged them with your in game settings posted earlier and it was a nightmare for me. So I reduced the in game settings to max torque = 5 and sensitivity = 4 and it felt absolutely great to me.

I think your in game settings are causing the problems, try setting in game to:
Simulation
POWER steering OFF
TORQUE 5
Sensitivity 4

Then those settings above of the ones I posted earlier ;)
That said, GT6 defo has some feedback issues. I've tried loads of games and in my opinion GT6 is the worst force feedback "sensation' out of them all. It may be the most "realistic" or technologically accurate, but it feels like **** on occasion and I get better force feedback consistency with other games. They are smooth as butter, but perhaps not the most detailed or accurate. I think GT6 has some serious flaws with its FFB mechanism. But that's just my opinion, which is not based in any fact, technical knowledge or such... Just playing the game side by side with my v2 and enjoying 1 gone and not the other... But I think your wheel may be ok, I think GT6 has a lot to answer for.

Chsnge those in game settings to above and let me know how that feels for you as I'm curious to see if this is GT6/Wheel hardware or software related.

Also, question for killdozer, you mentioned earlier to test if a wheel spins freely, mine has some friction and isn't exactly loose or free spinning, I also notice that when I turn left I hit the limiter without warning, but when I turn right I get a buffer before I hit the limiter... But how much should a wheel "free wheel" as mine doesn't really free wheel at all? I can spin it if I give it a good spin, but it slows quickly. I assumed that was normal, but after reading your post it sounds like your saying to wheel should be loose/free spinning or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

Also, I tried to use my wheel with sega rally championship model2 emulator and it keeps pulling fully to the left and locking up, has anyone sucsessfully got this working with Daytona, sega rally etc and if so, could you share settings. I'd love a day or retro racing :)
 
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HCK
Tried these and merged them with your in game settings posted earlier and it was a nightmare for me. So I reduced the in game settings to max torque = 5 and sensitivity = 4 and it felt absolutely great to me.

I think your in game settings are causing the problems, try setting in game to:
Simulation
POWER steering OFF
TORQUE 5
Sensitivity 4

Then those settings above of the ones I posted earlier ;)
That said, GT6 defo has some feedback issues. I've tried loads of games and in my opinion GT6 is the worst force feedback "sensation' out of them all. It may be the most "realistic" or technologically accurate, but it feels like **** on occasion and I get better force feedback consistency with other games. They are smooth as butter, but perhaps not the most detailed or accurate. I think GT6 has some serious flaws with its FFB mechanism. But that's just my opinion, which is not based in any fact, technical knowledge or such... Just playing the game side by side with my v2 and enjoying 1 gone and not the other... But I think your wheel may be ok, I think GT6 has a lot to answer for.

Chsnge those in game settings to above and let me know how that feels for you as I'm curious to see if this is GT6/Wheel hardware or software related.

Also, question for killdozer, you mentioned earlier to test if a wheel spins freely, mine has some friction and isn't exactly loose or free spinning, I also notice that when I turn left I hit the limiter without warning, but when I turn right I get a buffer before I hit the limiter... But how much should a wheel "free wheel" as mine doesn't really free wheel at all? I can spin it if I give it a good spin, but it slows quickly. I assumed that was normal, but after reading your post it sounds like your saying to wheel should be loose/free spinning or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

Also, I tried to use my wheel with sega rally championship model2 emulator and it keeps pulling fully to the left and locking up, has anyone sucsessfully got this working with Daytona, sega rally etc and if so, could you share settings. I'd love a day or retro racing :)
Click to expand...
Thanks for your suggestions, as you mentioned, I also think GT6 FFB might be at fault here. No combination of weaker in game ffb or Dri/ dea/ spr settings etc can stop that jumpy, jolty, notchynes between 11 & 1 o'clock on the wheel :guilty:
Grid 2 I've tested and achieved very satisfactory settings. Strong ffb resistance that is also very smooth turning.
But I want to use GT6!
If I ccould replicate this in GT6 I would be :D.
This totally re-inforces the absolute necessity to get official compatibility with GT7 to hopefully remedy and iron out these remaining issues.

Of note, F1 Championship Edition on PS3 doesn't work with the wheel. Nor does Ferrari Challenge.
 
K1LLD0z3R
My replacement wheel arrived with firmware 065 already installed so I did nothing until now. Mine was off center a small amount on start up too and it did not seem to effect function in game. So today I reinstalled the 065 firmware and did the calibration, now it centers fine on startup.

Download the full manual and check settings. I know it mentions if spr is 000 the wheel will not center. If you still fell you have a defective wheel contact Fanatec they usually repair and have decent turnaround.

I will plug your above settings in later and let you know.

Cheers.
Edit, after calibrating center there is no more oscillation at center and no need for any dea adjustment. And soze's settings are very nice.

Link to manual http://www.fanatec.com/download/CSW...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet
Click to expand...
Discovered that Spr needs to be 50 or higher to centre itself in start up.
Mine turns quite slowly, is this normal?, also it makes a vibrating noise turning right as if the belt is too tight causing friction.
One more thing, with the wheel turned off I rotate it all the way clockwise and it stops with the LEDs in a vertical position at 90 degrees to the base . Turned ani-clockwise it stops with the LEDs at 45 degree angle to the base i.e, lock to lock is not equal.
Is yours the same as this?
 
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Yea my wheel has more rotation to the left than the right. Using my wheel and doing the same test my LEDs are getting further round (when rotating to the left) than they are when rotating to the right. So I would take this that my wheel rotates somewhere above 450+ to the left and somewhere below 450- to the right.

Without measuring it looks to be about 10 degrees or so off.

My wheel also makes a different noise when rotating to the right, and also when I hit the limiter (full rotation during a game) the right hand side offers a slight buffer or feels like padding before the "jolting" kicks in... To the left, it just hits the limiter with out the feeling of any padding. By the sounds of it that's normal as I hear/read lots of people stating the same or in fact the exact opposite (padding/buffer to the left, direct to limiter on the right)

For the wheel to centre, you are correct that the SPR must be enabled, it states that in the manual too. It won't affect the wheel, it just won't centre in startup (but still has the correct centre point calibrated)

I'd like to hear if Thomas could answer a few of these questions directly as it seems there is a bit of inconsistency regarding the wheels. But I doubt he will do that because it could in fact incite a flurry of RMAs If it turns out our wheels are in fact NOT supposed to fu cation this way.

So for the record, I get at least 10degrees extra rotation on the left, mine makes a different noise (noiser) when rotating to the right and mine also has a springy/buffer before reaching the limiter on the right, but not on the left. Perhaps my left hand buffer/padding is not functioning correctly hence the extra roration? I don't know, I'm just guessing but clarity from Thomas would be very helpful for so many.

The amount of unanswered questions regarding the hardware is unbelievable, you should jump on the chat and ask them if these sound like faults and see what they say... I might ask too when they are available in my time zone.
 
HCK
Yea my wheel has more rotation to the left than the right. Using my wheel and doing the same test my LEDs are getting further round (when rotating to the left) than they are when rotating to the right. So I would take this that my wheel rotates somewhere above 450+ to the left and somewhere below 450- to the right.

Without measuring it looks to be about 10 degrees or so off.

My wheel also makes a different noise when rotating to the right, and also when I hit the limiter (full rotation during a game) the right hand side offers a slight buffer or feels like padding before the "jolting" kicks in... To the left, it just hits the limiter with out the feeling of any padding. By the sounds of it that's normal as I hear/read lots of people stating the same or in fact the exact opposite (padding/buffer to the left, direct to limiter on the right)

For the wheel to centre, you are correct that the SPR must be enabled, it states that in the manual too. It won't affect the wheel, it just won't centre in startup (but still has the correct centre point calibrated)

I'd like to hear if Thomas could answer a few of these questions directly as it seems there is a bit of inconsistency regarding the wheels. But I doubt he will do that because it could in fact incite a flurry of RMAs If it turns out our wheels are in fact NOT supposed to fu cation this way.

So for the record, I get at least 10degrees extra rotation on the left, mine makes a different noise (noiser) when rotating to the right and mine also has a springy/buffer before reaching the limiter on the right, but not on the left. Perhaps my left hand buffer/padding is not functioning correctly hence the extra roration? I don't know, I'm just guessing but clarity from Thomas would be very helpful for so many.

The amount of unanswered questions regarding the hardware is unbelievable, you should jump on the chat and ask them if these sound like faults and see what they say... I might ask too when they are available in my time zone.
Click to expand...
So it seems the rotation max limit being different from left to right is the norm.
Tried the recommended settings that people have agreed on and they are somewhat good for me. I feel glimpses of how perfect it could be, then I get the rumbles and jumpy judderyness around the centre of the wheel especially when exiting corners. Irrespective of tyre choice. It completely spoiles that immersion feeling. :( Then :banghead: followed by :grumpy:
💡 I wonder if an update to the game itself would help matters.
 
Mine is also doing a slightly more loud noise when turning on the right. But works perfectly well with that since Christmas.
 
@K_Soze do you have slightly more rotation in 1 direction or are yours identical? If you mark exactly where the centre top of your wheel gets to on full right, then in full left, is it identical or is there a slight difference?


When you hit the limiter (where the wheel jolts to say your at max turn) do you get any type of spongy effect just before hitting it on either 1 or both sides?

For example,
Picture a clock face in minutes.
My red band on the top centre of my wheel gets to apx 6 minutes PAST twelve on full rotation to the right...
But
Gets round to 9 minutes TO Twelve on full rotation to the left. Meaning it's traveled 3 "minute" marks more.

It's not much, but it's definitely there.
Not causing any issues so far I don't think?
 
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That's interesting to know... Mine are not symmetrical for sure. It's not out by a mile, but it sure isn't exact. Do you have a sponge effect when hitting the limit of the rim (before it starts jolting when at full rotation)

Now I'm wondering if my wheel I'd defective too?

Are your absolutely symmetrical, if you were to mark or measure it out would it be exact?

There is a test you could try that might be interesting. There are some calibration tools that tell you the amount of rotation in each each direction. I use the calibration utility in model2. I can see using this utility that my wheel has xxx extra rotation to the left. I'd be very interested to see what your or others results are.

It's done by calibrating the steering rotation.
It will say
Min 0 and max 65000 (or similar I forget the exact number)
Then it registers your current location on that scale.

My centre point is correct, my 0 is almost correct (I get to about 32) and my max is off by xxx which is substantially more than my left figure.

It might be worth while any owners doing that test and checking exactly what their rotation Is...

This has now perked my interest as my wheel is exhibiting numerous issues that I thought were by design but are in fact not standard throughout the range?
 
Cool,
I'll check it out and see how it compares with mine and hopefully MRMR will do the same.

I only get the elastic sensation on 1 side (Right)
I get more rotation to the left (and appears that the elastic sensation on that side isn't functioning)
I get a noisier noise when starting up the wheel and it rotates to the right
My rotation isn't exactly equal (it's similar to 460 left 440 right)


I thought these were all by design but it's very likely I'm incorrect and may Indeed have a wheel with issues... Hmmmmmm
 
K1LLD0z3R
@Blkout is correct, if you feel like you have a problem do not hesitate to contact Fanatec. Their customer service is great, they even have a chat available now.

The first wheel I received would not spin free when off. I don't recall what wheel trouble @Blkout had, but I think it's safe to say we are satisfied with our purchase.

Regarding notchyness in GT6, I ran some of the new seasonal's, the ones on hard tires and they felt fantastic. For me it is the softer tires and cars with higher downforce that impart that jumpy feel. It actually reminds me of washboard roads in my baja bug. Plus for some reason in GT6 painted lines are big bumps at some tracks in some cars.
Click to expand...

Since getting my wheel back from repair, its been great. I have no complaints. Hopefully the repair center corrected any issues that my wheel had during its initial production.
 
Here is a video where I am going from stop to stop with and without power.
You can see that when hitting the physic stop bumper you got and additional 10-20 degrees of elastic move.

Edit : you will also hear that there is a slightly different noise when turning on the right or on the left while calibration.

 
Blkout
Since getting my wheel back from repair, its been great. I have no complaints. Hopefully the repair center corrected any issues that my wheel had during its initial production.
Click to expand...
I have been ignored by customer service since initial contact through the website. I used the reply to email feature as requested. I'll be sure and say hi to everyone here in "Coventry".
 
my base and wheels and maybe shifter will be here tomorrow 0_0! hopefully everything works well. I need to find a drill to make holes in my obutto to mount....
 
@K Thanks for posting that?
This confirms that indeed my wheel does indeed behave differently to yours? I would suggest anyone with a v2 check this and see if yours behaves in a similar manner.

I might have to speak to support myself this week and ask why this is.
I'll contact them on Wednesday as I'm off work then and see what they say. I'll post a link to your video and create one of mine doing the same thing for comparison.

Interesting though, I thought all my bugs/defects were "by design" lol :)
 

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