Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

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If we are currently using the 2.5 with the CM Drive Hub, would we just now still used the Drive Hub on GTS, but choose the CSL Elite Wheel?

YES. It should and here's why it should. F-1 2017, Project Cars 2 and Assetto Corsa all have native Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 support. Those are the 3 games I play the most with my Fanatec Clubsport Base, wheel rim and clubsport peddle set up. I use the DriveHub on all 3 games in native Fanatec mode and all three games see it as a CSL elite PS4. I can't technically see why GT-sport would work any different. We will for sure know this time tomorrow if things have changed. If things have changed, I'm sure the guys over at CM will do their magic. ;-)
 
What kind of changes will we notice once the patch is live?
Obviously no more oscillating, but what else?

Super hyped for the patch nevertheless but I just wish they will review the throttle sensitivity above 50 % as well!
 
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What kind of changes will we notice once the patch is live?
Obviously no more oscillating, but what else?

Super hyped for the patch nevertheless but I just wish they will review the throttle sensitivity above 50 % as well!

They actually already did make some changes to this since GT Sport was released. Fine throttle control near full throttle is quite a bit easier now compared to when it first launched.
 
So excited, I've never tried GT Sport because of this ! Now it is time !

Do you think PD implemented the full potential of the wheel, I mean features like brake or throttle rumble with CSP V3 will work with GT Sport ?
 
So excited, I've never tried GT Sport because of this ! Now it is time !

Do you think PD implemented the full potential of the wheel, I mean features like brake or throttle rumble with CSP V3 will work with GT Sport ?

According to the official Fanatec Blog, they state that PD will be making refinements to the Fanatec wheel implementation. While tomorrow update will give you official Fanatec support, there is still fine tuning to be made in the coming weeks and months.
 
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Just wanted to share the post I made about the new update and CSL Elite on the Fanatec forum:


I have been testing out the new update since it was released for about 4 hours now. First off I want to say.. I am completely blown away!! Initial impressions are just fantastic plain and simple. I spent a ton of time driving the new FC3S RX-7 that was added (which I have a ton of seat time in in real life), adjusted the in-game FFB settings up to something that felt natural to me, and it feels so much like driving the real car I couldn't wipe the stupid smile off my face.
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I did adjust the in-game FFB settings both much higher than what I was using for compatibility mode. I had it set and 4 and 3 before (FFB Max Torque, FFB Sensitivity). But now I adjusted it up to 9 and 9 on both. I like to target the steering feel in cars I have actually driven so I don't mind a heavier wheel feel. To me this feels absolutely fantastic on the range of cars I drove from the FC3S, FD3S, 911 GT3 RS, Ferrari F40, etc. After hours of driving I didn't notice any loss in FFB response or anything and everything felt great. This is with the wheel on default settings. FEI on 50.

The only issue I noticed on this update (which is likely not limited to using the CSL Elite) is that the in-game FFB Max Torque setting doesn't seem to save from session to session. So if I start a session at a particular track and set the FFB Max Torque setting to 9, the next time I start a new session at a new track or even start a fresh session at the same track with same car, the FFB Max Torque setting always resets to 4. This might be happening with other wheels as well? But just wanted to make sure Kaz and PD are made aware of this. So far this is the only real issue I have come across, which isn't really an issue with the way the wheel performs in game. (If anyone else can test this and confirm it isn't just happening on my system that would be great. I have tried full restarts of the PS4 and it seems to be persistent. The FFB Sensitivity setting saves just fine for me, just not the Max Torque setting). At the moment I just need to reset the FFB Max Torque setting whenever I start a new session.

I know you said not to list any issues of the overall FFB, but I only have praises.
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The difference in the feel of FFB between this new update and previously using it in compatibility mode is pretty incredible. Driving on Tokyo Expressway in the FC3S, it was so cool to feel the gaps in the sections road match right up with the sound as you load up the car and pass over them. It is so easy to feel the car understeer, and just as easy to feel the rear of the car begin to step out and gently catch the slide. I had so many great moments of deja vu to driving the FC3S in real life. The on-center feel is buttery smooth and the way the wheel loads up at high speeds when turning slightly from side to side is spot on once you dial in the in-game FFB settings.

The default settings for all the buttons is exactly how I had my wheel setup when I was using compatibility mode.
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I did actually decide to change L2 to (Left View) and R2 to (Right View), but that is obviously just personal preference. I don't use the turn signals in-game very often so this suits me a bit better. I think the defaults are all really smart though.

Once again Thomas thank you so much and please extendt this thank you to Kaz and the entire team at PD! The current tire model in GT Sport combined with a wheel like this makes the game feel phenomenal! It ABSOLUTELY feels like I am driving a real FC3S when I drive one in GT Sport, and the same can be said for so many other cars. Anyone out there still trying to say GT Sport is a "game not a simulator", try giving it a go with the CSL Elite, and then go drive the same car and track in Assetto Corsa. The sound, graphics, and immersion of GT Sport is on a completely other level, and the driving feel is up their with the best now with proper hardware.
 
I am curious if anyone else can let me know if they are running into the same issue I was with the 1.15 update and FFB Max Torque setting not saving correctly?

Edit: Already seeing other reports of this from people with T-GT wheel as well so likely just an issue of the setting not saving properly. I would imagine they will get this patched pretty quickly as resetting that setting each time gets a bit frustrating haha.
 
The current tire model in GT Sport combined with a wheel like this makes the game feel phenomenal! It ABSOLUTELY feels like I am driving a real FC3S when I drive one in GT Sport, and the same can be said for so many other cars.

Thanks for your review I hope I will have time to try it this weekend ! Which tyres do you use with road cars on GT Sport ?
 
Really? I couldn't set it properly with blue mode. No shift lights working like on purple mode, forces were super strong and clunky with strength 2 and sensitivity 7. Wheel started to rattle/shake violently when loosing grip. Undriveable.

The understeer rattle is unbearable with FEI 50. Slightly too much input feels & sounds like power drill's torque lock. With FEI 0 it's still there, but it's sudden kick in is immersion braking, what is it supposed to simulate anyway? (M3 on SH tyres.)
 
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I'm sorry, but the rev lights thing really ******* annoys me. Why even release support at this point? Did we not already have "core functionality" in compatibility mode? The wheel was perfectly usable for me, except for the oscillation, which I didn't feel was a massive problem. I don't know, I just think it's idiotic to not release full support in one update. Missing rev lights is not the biggest issue, it just annoys me that PD handle things this way. rant over.
 
Really? I couldn't set it properly with blue mode. No shift lights working like on purple mode, forces were super strong and clunky with strength 2 and sensitivity 7. Wheel started to rattle/shake violently when loosing grip. Undriveable.

The understeer rattle is unbearable with FEI 50. Slightly too much input feels & sounds like power drill's torque lock. With FEI 0 it's still there, but it's sudden kick in is immersion braking, what is it supposed to simulate anyway? (M3 on SH tyres.)
Do you have the rattling in other games as well?
 
Do you have the rattling in other games as well?

Occurs in Assetto Corsa only when riding curbs with FEI over 60, but rarely.
It's stronger in GT Sport. In AC it's mainly just loud noise.
Found it strongest at Tsukuba's 1st left hander while turning over the limit.
 
Occurs in Assetto Corsa only when riding curbs with FEI over 60, but rarely.
It's stronger in GT Sport. In AC it's mainly just loud noise.
Found it strongest at Tsukuba's 1st left hander while turning over the limit.
That is strange! Does anybody know of any review which goes more in depth to compare thrustmaster implementation of FFB in various game to Fanatec? I hear lots of conflicting information. Would be great if somebody has tried to compare both 1:1 and in-depth (digital foundry style).

Since i already pretty much invested 1k into TM gear I am still not confident to switch without being disappointed. At the moment I believe the implementation of FFB with TM is really solid on the PS4.
 
I have never understood why people were so upset about the rattling noise, as until now I had only experienced it very rarely and not more then just at slight rattle.
But running in PS4 mode after 1.15 today I was shocked, when ever I turn in to a low speed corner and push the amount of steering angle just slightly over the grip level of the front tires, the wheel vibrates and rattles like crazy, first time it happened I thought that something had broken inside the wheel base.

I would very much like to know what settings people are using to get rid of this ?

If I turn FEI Off it is better, but still a lot worse then running compatibility mode.

On a positive note, when running PS4 mode and FEI at 50 I am really impressed with the improvement in force feedback detail and feel.
It is just shame I wont be using it unless I can somehow adjust the settings to get rid of the vibrations and rattling, because I find it completely undriveable as it is.

Most of the testing I have done today was with the E30 M3 in stock form, at Tsukuba. (The last right hand hairpin is definitely the worst in terms of rattling for me)
 
If I turn FEI Off it is better, but still a lot worse then running compatibility mode.

FEI 0 is definetly better, but the cost is limited curb and bump information. Yet the odd 'broken suspension like' shaking is still there.
Not even remotely close how other games inform lack of grip.
 
FEI 0 is definetly better, but the cost is limited curb and bump information. Yet the odd 'broken suspension like' shaking is still there.
Not even remotely close how other games inform lack of grip.
GT sport does have this effect when grip is lost it feels like the wheels are skidding over the road on my TM wheel. It almost feels like when ABS kicks in in real life, almost like the car is jumping up and down rapidly.

Not everybody likes that effect, but it does give accurate information you just "went over the limit". I eventually got used to it. Is that perhaps the cause?
 
It is definitely the "understeer effect" that causes the issue, it seems that the CSL just cant turn it in to usable "FFB information" It just rattles and vibrates all over the place.
Without direct comparison it’s hard to say how accurate the interpretation is. But does it feel like the tires are “jumping” or just like knocking which the Logitech’s tend to do?
 
Without direct comparison it’s hard to say how accurate the interpretation is. But does it feel like the tires are “jumping” or just like knocking which the Logitech’s tend to do?

It's just knocking or fast shaking, similiar to what you'd experience when you run FFB test in Thrustmaster control panel.
PD really need to spend more optimizing it...
 
Without direct comparison it’s hard to say how accurate the interpretation is. But does it feel like the tires are “jumping” or just like knocking which the Logitech’s tend to do?

It isn't just knocking at all. If someone is experiencing a ton of knocking they would have to be understeering like crazy. The transition from smooth turn in to the feel of understeer doesn't feel jarring to me at all with FEI at 50. I would definitely try turning up your Max Torque if you haven't. (And also keep in mind that 1.15 has a bug that resets this to default with every session). If you come into a corner in real life way to hot and just crank the wheel. You will definitely get the same scuttle shake on most street cars. Anyone who thinks the compatibility mode is better is bananas.

I could see them dialing it back or adjusting a bit more, but you shouldn't be spending most of your time in full cranked on understeer mode anyway. I rarely ever get into this effect. The effect in real life is actually pretty dramatic and can make the entire car feel like it's shaking. Really I think they should just add more settings for people to adjust to their preference probably huh?
 
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Really? I couldn't set it properly with blue mode. No shift lights working like on purple mode, forces were super strong and clunky with strength 2 and sensitivity 7. Wheel started to rattle/shake violently when loosing grip. Undriveable.

The understeer rattle is unbearable with FEI 50. Slightly too much input feels & sounds like power drill's torque lock. With FEI 0 it's still there, but it's sudden kick in is immersion braking, what is it supposed to simulate anyway? (M3 on SH tyres.)

I really don't think I could disagree more with this. If you have FFB Max Torque set to 2 then you would barely even be experiencing any FFB? To me with the Max Torque set at 4 it definitely is not enough. Yes the shift lights haven't been implemented yet but I it doesn't effect the driving experience at all. "Slightly too much input" doesn't trigger the understeer effect at all. For me there is a reasonable transition between slight understeer and full on understeer. I do think they should let the user adjust this type of effect though.
 
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