Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

  • Thread starter PzR Slim
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Just updated to v293 new driver and now have no ffb,rev lights or vibration. Can anybody shed some light on what I’ve done wrong? Thing is driving me NUTS!
 
rikcougar
I will make some ajustments tonight when I get home tonight and see how it improves, thank you
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Braking much better now with medium elastomers, softest were fitted when it shipped, strange that harder elastomers needs less braking effort.

I might try the hardest ones tonight
 
rikcougar
Braking much better now with medium elastomers, softest were fitted when it shipped, strange that harder elastomers needs less braking effort.

I might try the hardest ones tonight
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I put the hard ones in and couldnt get to max braking haha didnt realise/read the instructions about the setting in the wheel

Going to go to the hard ones again now I know what does what and can tune it on the wheel
 
Last edited:
manion
I put the hard ones in and couldnt get to max braking haha didnt realise/read the instructions about the setting in the wheel

Going to go to the hard ones again now I know what does what and can tune it on the wheel
Click to expand...

Tried the hardest elastomers but couldn`t get on with them, gone back to medium and lots of practice!
 
haha with the hard ones I pushed the pedal almost through the metal. My seat rig lifted about 1inch above the ground. Went back to the mediums and played around with the brf setting. For me 50% works fine.
 
The elastometers are there to change the feel and pedal travel, the amount of force needed for 100% is still the same at 100 BrF. Only thing is I don’t believe the softest ones are designed to take maximum pressure so you have to switch them out if you want it harder.

I couldn’t reach 100% on my V3’s on my old NLR rig because the whole thing pushed away and up but it was pretty easy on my new Sim-Lab P1 because it’s perfectly solid all your effort goes straight into the pedal, I was quite surprised actually.
 
Guys if you have the V3 the best way to set up the brake is not in automatic mode but with the manual calibration (min and max) in the control panel.

The elastometers are for the travel.
 
Just received a notice of a price drop for the Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel (PS4), on Amazon (for the free shipping). Now $479 with Prime shipping.

This matches the price direct from Fanatec now.
 
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SeerreuS
Has anyone received there Mclaren wheel yet who pre-ordered. Still can't order.
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April 21 the first batch will be delivered to us. We've seen that SimRacingGirl, who has meanwhile become a Fanatec employee, showed the GT3 Mc Laren wheel. Maybe that is still a pre production version?
 
Is there successful experience using Ricmotech sim rigs with Fanatec products?
Photo pictures on Ricmotech website are mostly with Thrustmaster gear.
And so far I was not able to find good detailed third party reviews.

I asked same question in other thread but without much success.
 
How smooth is you CSL Elite? I can turn it easily with one finger, but there's small area both sides (around 90°) where i can hear mild scratching sound/friction and at that area it feels like there's bubblegum stuck inside. Also drift mode +5 doesn't seem to work equally from lock to lock... :/
 
Knukel
How smooth is you CSL Elite? I can turn it easily with one finger, but there's small area both sides (around 90°) where i can hear mild scratching sound/friction and at that area it feels like there's bubblegum stuck inside. Also drift mode +5 doesn't seem to work equally from lock to lock... :/
Click to expand...
It feels very smooth. I’ve not noticed any irregularities. I will check a bit more tomorrow.
The only part I don’t like so far is the spinning of the wheel by itself
 
So, here is my buttons mapping:

PS_Messages_20180318_094224.jpg


Wheel settings:

Sen - 540
FF - 100
sho - 100
ABS - Off
Dri: -02
For - 70
Spr - 10
Dpr - Off
Fei - Off

Ingame settings:

Force Feedback max. Torque - 6
Force Feedback sensivity - 4
 
Last edited:
F Inferno
Looks horrible how, just aesthetics or you think the rigidity is somehow compromised?

Personally I prefer it to the welded box steel any day, welds always look cheap and also aren’t as strong either (though granted you’ll probably never put enough force through them to break one). The fact you can easily take it all apart or completely change the positioning along with mounting lots of different hardware easily is also unmatched.

I did look at getting it separately and I can tell you it’s barely any cheaper getting the same sized aluminium profiles and then you have all the slot nuts, bolts and brackets to worry about.

You also don’t get the custom mounting plates they use for things like the wheel decks, pedal plate, shifter/handbrake mounts and/or seat mounts and wheel supports. If you were to custom order those then you’d need to know exactly what you needed to make CAD file to custom order which not only would it bump the cost up beyond the prebuilt ones it’s just unnecessary extra time and effort as no guarantee the supplier will do a good job.

Obviously there is fun to be had building your own rig from scratch but in UK/Europe it most definitely is not cheaper to buy it all in yourself but I appreciate Aus is a little different as you get destroyed by taxes.

I can assure you though the good ones are not half arsed jobs and aesthetics aside which are personal thing, you aren’t going to get a more rigid rig. When the choice is between your standard prebuilts from box/tube steel and 80/20 the latter is always significantly better.

The Sim-Lab P1 I got with all the trimmings is actually cheaper than getting an RSeat RS1 (and N1 which is even more expensive!) with the same extras and it is worlds better in performance.

So while I agree people shouldn’t be looking at your standard GT Omega, RSeat, Playseat, NLR etc. which have a laughable amount of flex for the price and in comparison, I think you’d be surprised just how good the aluminium profile rigs are. I certainly was which is why I’m now telling people not to bother with the other rigs and get something like the Sim-Lab GT-Cup for €300 at the bottom end up to a Sim-Lab P1 for €700 and pick your chair and extras as needed.
Click to expand...

Yeah looks horrible as in aesthetics, which I understand is subjective, but 80/20 just looks like scaffolding to me. Also, welds are not weak at all, if you weld two piece of steel together, provided you know how to weld properly, the weld point will be the strongest part. I have no idea where you get the idea that welds are in any way a weak point. Ask anyone who works with metal what they think of the structural rigidity of bolted together 80/20 aluminium profile vs welded steel tube. There's no comparison at all. That's why roll cages are made from welded steel tube and not bolted together ally profile lol.

Placer Jay
Thanks Mike but to be honest mate I am a handy man but don't really have the time to build a rig from scratch. Rather buy a frame. Build that up. And then hook my CSL Elite stuff up and go.
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Yeah that's fair enough mate, it can be hard to find time for projects. I've probably got ten completely different projects all on the go at any given time, and some of them won't be finished for years, just because I don't have the time lol.
 
Litchi
So, here is my buttons mapping:

View attachment 723045

Wheel settings:

Sen - 540
FF - 100
sho - 100
ABS - Off
Dri: -02
For - 70
Spr - 10
Dpr - Off
Fei - Off

Ingame settings:

Force Feedback max. Torque - 6
Force Feedback sensivity - 4
Click to expand...




Dude, do you not get a ridiculous amount of ffb wobble when trying to drive in a straight line with max torque at 6?

I have had to turn my max torque down to 2 because the wobble drives me insane if it’s any higher. Any more than 2 and I struggle to stop the car weaving it’s way down the straight

Can I ask why you have your sensitivity on 4? I have mine on 10 because I want every detail of ffb available. Or am I wrong about how this works?
 
Last edited:
HandyDan
Dude, do you not get a ridiculous amount of ffb wobble when trying to drive in a straight line with max torque at 6?
Click to expand...
No, I don't. Maybe due to my wheel settings? Dunno actually.
HandyDan
Can I ask why you have your sensitivity on 4? I have mine on 10 because I want every detail of ffb available. Or am I wrong about how this works?
Click to expand...
I feel everything at 4. One more time, maybe it's due to my wheel settings. I tried yours (2 and 10) earlier today and I feel nothing in the wheel...:odd::confused:
 
Litchi
No, I don't. Maybe due to my wheel settings? Dunno actually.

I feel everything at 4. One more time, maybe it's due to my wheel settings. I tried yours (2 and 10) earlier today and I feel nothing in the wheel...:odd::confused:
Click to expand...

That’s odd. I’d say it could be firmware or driver (whatever it is). But unless a new one has come out since I updated a few weeks ago when bought the wheel I presume we have the same.

Now I’m worrying about my wheel. Do you have a dead zone for the ffb in the center? If so, how much?

I’d say I have a half inch, maybe 2/3 inch movement in the wheel before I feel ffb.

Not that this has anything to do with the wobble, just want to check. I’ve only had this once but I have had the wheel randomly turn off, then no ffb when I came back on. Unplugged it, plugged it back in, it’s been fine since. Any thoughts on that, wasn’t worried about that either till now.
 
Forgot to mention my wheel settings:

Sen:053 ( about 180 rotation either way)
Ff: 100
Sho:100
Abs: 100
For:100
Spr:100
For: 100
Fei: Off

Other than the wobble I like how it feels, I could only get it to go away by turning the FF down but it removes the feel of everything else too.
 
Knukel
How smooth is you CSL Elite? I can turn it easily with one finger, but there's small area both sides (around 90°) where i can hear mild scratching sound/friction and at that area it feels like there's bubblegum stuck inside.
Click to expand...
I have the CSL Elite Xbox version and my wheel is smooth through all 1080 degrees of rotation.
If you have a serious problem your steering wheel will eventually get worse and it will become like that:


upload_2017-10-21_7-43-43-png.682060

untitled-jpg.682064
 
Knukel
My experience is far from the one you posted above and i do feel like i'm nitpicking, but eventually it could get as bad. Unfortunately the quiet center area isn't that noticeable in the video. Naturally it's more clear without recording device. (Power off)


Earlier i said that there's small area around 90 degrees, but obviously the only quiet area is in the middle. Later i'll repeat drift mode +5 test where i slowly turn wheel from lock to lock and see how consistent it is, last time it went from neutral to crazy at certain area. :)
Click to expand...

Here's my wheel with power off in the first 30 secons and at the end with drift mode +5.After I turn the power on the noise that is heard is from the Noctua NF-A8 FLX 80mm fan.

 

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