Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
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Is anyone wanting two motors at a discount? Eric's got two for me but since we started the group buy I decided that the V2 base was my preferred solution.

USD$140 and I'll instruct Eric that they're yours, send me a PM if interested.
 
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Off tangent, but I did the CSP shock upgrade just the other day. I don't recall who or where the link was to the shock now. (thank you Punknoodle or possibly Nick if I am wrong, forgive me and I will credit the proper person with an edit) All I can say is wow very nice. Even though I still have the CSR Elites on my rig at this time it will not be for long.

Also, for the pedal mount side I did need to tear apart a ball point pin and razer blade a bushing from one of the components of said pin. I prefer that to modding the lower mount though.

Also, also, there was a small amount of filing on the shock top for csp nut clearance. This is just for clarification. )

Thanks it has a very nice feel now. :)
 

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So this past week I have finally received my Buhler motor upgrade kit from EKretz and what can I say but WOOOOOWWWWWW.

Admittedly I was somewhat skeptical when looking at this option as opposed to fulfilling my invite from FANATEC to order the new V2 base or possibly taking the plunge to Bodnar land. I have been running FANATEC wheels since the beginning and currently have a CSR ELITE with custom hub adapter, V2 pedals, CSS SQ and CS Handbrake all placed in my own handbuilt creation complete authentic 996 Cup car Recaro SPG.

I received the package, opened it, retrieved the installation instructions and debated on whether or not to install or not...of course I couldn't wait. I was like a kid on Christmas and this being just a day before seemed appropriate to give myself a sim racing dream gift.

The install went smoother than expected and within an hour the new motors were packed in the factory FANATEC base and ready to be fired up.
Had I made the right decision or wasted $400?

At first calibration I could tell this wheel was powerful. The manner in which is calibrated was smooth and powerful. Feeling surprisingly good at this point but the levels of happiness to come I would have never expected.

First drive had to be in the F40. My favorite supercar and a car in which I had previously criticized the handling and FFB in AC. If it felt good here then I was on to something.

What I felt from the first seconds exiting pit lane was nothing short of ecstasy. The first noticeable difference was the overall weight and tension while stopped and low speeds. This feels like a real damn car and I still cannot believe it. The pure substance of this wheel rivals it's real world counterparts in every aspect. The weight, responsiveness, road feel, and mainly the cars attitude has never been so CLEARLY translated into my hands via ANY sim racing wheel. All I could do was produce an enormous **** eating grin and let out other expletives out of the sheer joy and amazement of the accurate and visceral driving experience that was now in my hands FINALLY.

Starting out with the same wheel settings I so realized there would have to be a lengthy tuning process to get it just perfect but right off the bat it felt RIGHT. Maybe a little to this or that but overall a feeling that I had only previously thought possible with the Bodnar wheel. A wheel that I had also considered and nearly took the dive on. Thankfully for my pocket book I went this route.

This wheel has completely transformed AC into the sim that I always wanted it to be but it could never reach in my eyes. I previously thought that this was just the shortcomings of AC but turns out it was only the internals of my sim wheel that were hiding 50% of the brilliance and joy that AC has to offer. Pure sim gold at this point. I loved AC before this upgrade. Now I'm completely obsessed and just the thought of driving and feeling the wheel in my hands gives me butterflies.

I simply cannot translate into words the feeling of exhilaration and pure happiness that you achieve from feeling this 320mm vintage MOMO wheel rigging for grip in your hands. The super high level of smooth and controllable power is unprecedented even by Clubsport V2 standards. This wheel now makes a V2 seem slightly toyish...

As a side note. I have yet to install the proper cooling system recommended by EKretz in order to run full 100% FFB.
The most I can run in this configuration is 70% on wheel, 70% gain in-game. All I have to do is connect the quick connects for the air pump and connect the hoses. Once done this is also said the improve linearity. That may be the most exciting and game changing fact. I simply cannot imagine the wheel at full chat and I'm not sure if I would ever need the other 40% although after feeling the way the power is used I'm very curious to try.

***Also worth mentioning that I am a "low FFB type of sim driver". I like accurate, smooth, predictable steering therefore previously I was running 100% on wheel, 55% gain in game to avoid clipping and FFB spikes.

The way this wheel translates its immense power into smooth driving seems miraculous and I'm not tech savvy to explain but just know I race vintage sports cars in 1-3 hour stints and this wheel at 60-70% is very, very near if not over in some cases replicating the real world force of the tires gripping and losing grip of the road.

Imagine the FFB signals in a normal Clubsport wheel. Now multiply them by 2 or 3.

I can now catch the car at the EXACT instant it begins to under/oversteer and my lap times although already low are dropping by 1 second almost instantly.

One of the most impressive new sensations I'm getting through the wheel is at high speeds in high downforce cars (787, T125 etc.) The wheel tension in this situation is higher than I have personally ever felt in real world sports cars having never had a proper rip in a proper high downforce car. It feels exactly like I had imagined. Super, super, super tight around center with boat loads of tension and substance but sooooooooo SMOOTH. My rather sturdy rig is flexing like rubber and may need a few modifications for long term stability. My V1 motors wouldn't even move this rig a cm for example.

The other major advantage driving is when trail braking at higher speeds. Previously I had to use my imagination and intuition on how cars behave to judge. You need little imagination with the Buhler motors. The wheel clearly depicts the level of grip at ALL times with high levels of tension and subtle but brute power.
When executing this advanced and tedious techinique with normal wheels there is very subtle difference in wheel feel. Now when trail braking the wheel pulls ever so slightly in the turning direction but with solid force and tension to where you can adjust and gauge the cars attitude at all times to absolute inch perfection.

I normally wouldn't go on a rant of this magnitude do to my lack of free time (time I could be experiencing sim racing bliss) but this wheel is now performing at such an impressively high level/$$$ I had to let people know. If you aren't happy with your factory FANATEC wheels, even V2, then I obviously more than recommend this Buhler motor upgrade.

I must thank Eric, the man behind this mod and a nice guy. He kept telling me that I would be happy with this in my times of doubt and man was he ever right. His customer support and availability is always a click or call away as well. So thanks Eric for opening my eyes to possibilities only ever dreamt about.

I wasn't to sure what I was getting into when I chose this route over the new V2 base. After only 30 seconds with this wheel in my hands I knew that I had made the correct decision. I only wish that you all could experience this wheel first hand to fully comprehend just how much better of a sim driver it will make you and more importantly the world of driving nirvana it introduces you to.


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Awesome Colt! That was a fun read! Love that seat, looks amazing! That is such a lot of praise, lol, I can tell you are in love! Just like me, love my wheel now.

To those still waiting, got motor mount fabrications delivered this week, just need to do some machining and next kits will be headed out. Still on track for January delivery of all kits.
 
Maybe some days I will try this mod to fix my dead CSR Elite but until now I am really impressed by the V2.

What you describe is almost the same for me when coming from he CSR Elite to the CSW V2. AC was nice to see but not that good to drive, it was like I was driving with a geared wheel and like the motors input update rate was about 10Hz. With the V2, it is absolutely something else. Actually I am still amazed when I think behind the wheel there is a motor that have to invert the wheel momentum in a fraction of a second. In GT6, it is also absolutely astonishing, while there is less detail than on a pc sim, it is absolutely smooth, no way you can feel some cogging or some motor inputs.

It seems motor power is a necessary thing to provide smoothness (yeah I know it is obvious :) ).
 
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Thanks again Eric and yes I am a kid in a candy store! It just changes the experience so completely its difficult to explain. That was attempt to do it justice, although you have to experience it to believe it for sure. I'm excited for those who are waiting as you will all have a delicious surprise soon. Enjoy and Happy New Year!
 
Wow, amazing review! I've received my kit but I still don't know when I'll get to install it. I still need the tube-y bits and of course the time and space to do the work. Anybody want to clean my garage? Better yet, eKretz, come on down to Austin and install it for me! YEAH!
 
Oh yeah, I might make it down there to do your install... But not until the next COTA F1 race, lol. He's trying to get some good tickets for us to go this year. You had better have it installed by then!
 
Oh yeah, I might make it down there to do your install... But not until the next COTA F1 race, lol. He's trying to get some good tickets for us to go this year. You had better have it installed by then!

Haha, by Nov 2015? Yeah, I think I can get 'er done by then. Hope it works out for you!
 
Haha, not ATM. Is that a brushless?
It is brushless buddy. Just thought I'd plant the seed :sly: Sounds like lots of fellas got the hookup with an amazing wheel!


Jerome
 
Well, you tell me - does it need an upgrade? Is it too weak for you? I don't know anything about those wheels - Got fade issues? PM if you want.

Personally I'm so happy with my wheel I don't even care about any new wheels coming out anymore. 👍

I only mention it because I've read other T300 owners and people looking for a wheel chose the T500 because of the better FFB motor. I love the T300, it's set to same FFB strength of the CSR-E I had (level 40). Just thought there may be a market share for it since the CSR-E ones took off so well 👍


Jerome
 
Wow, eKretz.

This is some impressive stuff you have done, the Buhler mod looks amazing. Quite a hefty topic to read through, tried to look for the price of this mod but its not in the OP.? What am I looking at here :D
 
Another quick FYI for guys waiting - I've been sick as a dog the last couple weeks so haven't been able to get in to machine motor mounts. Got the flu in two separate rounds and now I've got a throat and sinus infection. Really feel like hell. Went to the doc - I should be good to go in a few more days.
 
The other night my BMW rim was jammed on the base so tight that it took me a solid 10 sweaty minutes trying to get it off. Heaving on it as hard as I could, wiggling it, it was insane. I can't imagine it was any good for the wheel base's bearing or the wheel rim and I think I ended up bending a paddle shifter in the fight, which I have now.straightened. @Fanatec... I think this a serious issue that needs to be investigsted, it is going to cause some people injury and also damaged gear. I hope no premature bearing failure will come of the intense outward pressure on the shaft trying to get the wheel off.

Anyway I decided enough was enough so I decided to fix it. I had a look on the base and saw this:
DSC_0030_zpsvxwtdm2u.jpg

I attributed the damage to a rough lip on the wheel rim's quick release - highlighted for clarity.
sketch-1421764994397_zpszt5r7fj_edit_1421765103596_zpseuiag2su.jpg

I decided to smooth them out. To do this I dismantled the wheel in order to remove the quick release then removed the outer sleeve and ball bearings. This is necessary or else metal filings will clog up the bearings. It is a bit of a pain to pull apart but definitely not hard.

I then smoothed it out with some fine grit sandpaper. It's probably best to use something a lot finer but I used what I had at hand. You can see how much smoother the edges look.
DSC_0032_zpsivhh1kde.jpg

After cleaning it I test fitted just that part on to the shaft and it now slides on and off the base and locks in nice and neatly. I'll reassemble it tomorrow I just need to get some grease first for the ball bearings out of the quick release, some hot glue for the plug on the PCB I had to unplug, and I might give the inside of the quick release and also shaft of the base a bit of a polish up too.

Problem solved helpfully but perhaps Fanatec should be replacing all of the Quick Releases on their BMW rim's due to poor tolerances.
 
The other night my BMW rim was jammed on the base so tight that it took me a solid 10 sweaty minutes trying to get it off. Heaving on it as hard as I could, wiggling it, it was insane. I can't imagine it was any good for the wheel base's bearing or the wheel rim and I think I ended up bending a paddle shifter in the fight, which I have now.straightened. @Fanatec... I think this a serious issue that needs to be investigsted, it is going to cause some people injury and also damaged gear. I hope no premature bearing failure will come of the intense outward pressure on the shaft trying to get the wheel off.

Anyway I decided enough was enough so I decided to fix it. I had a look on the base and saw this:
DSC_0030_zpsvxwtdm2u.jpg

I attributed the damage to a rough lip on the wheel rim's quick release - highlighted for clarity.
sketch-1421764994397_zpszt5r7fj_edit_1421765103596_zpseuiag2su.jpg

I decided to smooth them out. To do this I dismantled the wheel in order to remove the quick release then removed the outer sleeve and ball bearings. This is necessary or else metal filings will clog up the bearings. It is a bit of a pain to pull apart but definitely not hard.

I then smoothed it out with some fine grit sandpaper. It's probably best to use something a lot finer but I used what I had at hand. You can see how much smoother the edges look.
DSC_0032_zpsivhh1kde.jpg

After cleaning it I test fitted just that part on to the shaft and it now slides on and off the base and locks in nice and neatly. I'll reassemble it tomorrow I just need to get some grease first for the ball bearings out of the quick release, some hot glue for the plug on the PCB I had to unplug, and I might give the inside of the quick release and also shaft of the base a bit of a polish up too.

Problem solved helpfully but perhaps Fanatec should be replacing all of the Quick Releases on their BMW rim's due to poor tolerances.

nice!! this is a really imported fix for everyone to use.. :gtpflag::)
 
Well I have finished reassembling the rim. Polished the inside of the QR and also the shaft of the base and it now goes on and off as easily as the Forumla rim, whilst it's still as solid as a rock, no wiggle or lateral movement at all. Used new grease when reinstalling the ball bearings and also used a very light coat on the overall surface inside the QR. Also used new loctite on all the screws.
 
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