Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

[Simon Hein]

Hello eKretz, I have been reading a lot in this thread.. Very nice information, it seems like you are an expert on Fanatec wheels..

'I have build a double race rig, using two xbox 360's and two standard Fanatec CSR wheels.. We compete in Dirt 3, Forza 3, and F1 2013..

I am very happy with the wheels, but it seems like one of my motors is starting to get weaker.. I have not been able to find an original replacement motor, and Fanatec do not deliver spare parts..

I have found the following motors on ebay, but i'm not sure if any of these will work..I will be able to customize the wheel to fit the motors, if they can be used..

I hope you can help..

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Buhler-Moto...m=322525019878&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUMI-55...276686?hash=item1a3b31ea4e:g:-iAAAOSwc6pZ5h5l

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Canon-QK...m=122900549398&_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985

I have attached a picture of the wheel and a few pictures of my setup.. I have made hydraulic resistance on the standard CRS pedals, to get a better feeling with the brakes (feels like a brake in a normal car, except you have to push harder)
On one of the rigs I have made a sequential shifter and handbrake like in a rally car, also hydraulic, controlled by pressure switches.. It works quite well and doesn't break..

Regards
Simon Hein
Denmark

 

[eKretz]

Hi Simon, I believe the Canon printer motor you linked is very close to the original Fanatec O.E. motors in terms of specs, that one should basically be nearly a drop-in. Apologies for the delayed response, didn't get any notification there was a new post. Nice looking rig you've got there BTW!

 

[tiagomonteiro]

Hi guys! Found this threat yesterday and took some good info about my problem. I have a GT3 v2 that have the same problem described by @john_ach. My wheel turns on, displays "888" followed by "-" and stucks there, without moving the motor. If i do the movement "simulating" what he does on calibration, then it shows "---" and i can get it working after that, but always with NO ffb... I prob 24V on Vds and 0V on Vgs. So, i start thinking that the problem is on IC1, and not on T1, right? As @eKretz said, If he turns on, then T1 is probably working, is it that? Can someone help me?

Thanks in advance!!

Best regards

 

[Marsatt]

Hello there,
My csr elite wheel is acting. I am trying to replace the motors. However, i cutted the wires and forgot to take a picture from the motors (2 pairs red and black) to the plug. Can someone please upload a picture where it can shows where both red wires are connected to the top and bottom motors? Thank you.

 

[GeeForceP]

Hi guys.
Has anyone got a picture of the plug (or diagram) that goes from the main PCB to the wheel please? Had an accident and ripped the wires out of the plug!!!! (the 10 pin one).
@Marsatt on my motors the red wires go to the connectors closests to the red blobs
I have a CSRE

 

[presidente001]

Hello eKretz

You know where can I take PWM +/- Signals from PCB of Fanatec CSW Base V1 and Fanatec Porsche GT2 or CSR?? I want to use a External motor drive Like a Arduino BTS7960. I want use a 500W motor of Eletric Scooter for my project. Thanks my friend!!

 

[eKretz]

Hi guys.
Has anyone got a picture of the plug (or diagram) that goes from the main PCB to the wheel please? Had an accident and ripped the wires out of the plug!!!! (the 10 pin one).
@Marsatt on my motors the red wires go to the connectors closests to the red blobs
I have a CSRE

This is for the CSW, but IIRC, the CSR-E is different. Will check my notes to see if I have that also.

 

[Ryko79]

My Clubsport V1 base is already few years old and after approx. 2 years of living with fantastic eKretz MOD that has a lot of power, I am thinking of changing of the bearings. The reason is, that I feel like the wheel turning is not as smooth and has some friction. Please, can somebody advice, what particular type of bearings should I use? I believe that the critical pulley is the one on the left side when looking from the front side where steering wheel is placed - it has the narrow and wide belts on it. I have never changed any bearings before, so any help or advice is welcome...

 

[GeeForceP]

Thanks Eric, but yeah the car is different. Damaged don't have spares and I can only find similar plugs to use from China. I think I got the wiring order sorted though. Then my mate offered me the very V2 I helped him source on here :-) seeing as the care needs belts as well as the wiring and I want to put a new wheel on, this offer was perfect for me.
Ryko79 I noticed that the pulley you mention had worn the shaft it's on in my csre (same pulley system) it would twist slightly and bind a little on the belts, I put a bit of tissue in there and pressed it back on, becauset it's the shaft worn in my case, not the bearings, changing them wouldn't do much. I was also having to use a lot of belt tension due to old belts, which wouldn't have helped this situation.

 

[eKretz]

Yeah that shaft wears out over time. On some wheels they didn't get a very good fit to the bearing and they get majorly worn pretty quickly. Once that happens the bearing can tilt on the shaft and the bearing binds and starts to wear out. I mentioned this previously in this thread but it's buried with over 100 pages now. I would get a new shaft made from steel instead of the aluminum they used and might as well change the bearings - if that one started getting in a bind it will have some wear on it. The bearings will have ID numbers on them that spec the ID, OD and thickness.

 

[Masscot]

Hey folks, I have recently upgraded to a CSWv2.5 so have some CSR-E spares for sale.
1x brand new motor block
1x brand new PCB
1x CSR-E wheel base and standard rim, boxed
1x CSR-E wheel base with no rim (slight damage to plastic rear of the wheel base), boxed
2x external power supplies

Open to offers for all. I'm UK based.

 

[raikkonen07]

Hello everyone , great forum thread . Thanks for that

I'm building a custom FFB steering wheel and interested in the fanatec csr wheel. can anyone show me pictures or technical drawings of the steering wheel shaft mechanism

Thanks

 

[Blue028]

Hey guys, I'm in the process of building a handbrake to plug into fanatec pedals, I have V1 CSP so I'm familiar with the small 4 pin connector, but the person I'm building it for has V3s. I need put on the RJ11/12 end but I'm unsure of the pins used and I don't have access to any v3s to figure it out. So does anybody with a fanatec HB have both connections and can compare the two for me?

Pics of the HB

I also just finished up on a mod for my 8 year old set of pedals, upgraded the brake and added ball bearings to the pivot point because it was so flogged out.

 

[omegasc]

Hello,
recently I found out that my CSW v1 is not limiting the rotation anymore, regardless of when using the SEN in Tuning Menu, driver, or in-game.
When turning the wheel gently, I can feel it having a limit set, but it just does not prevent me from keep turning anymore, with little effort.

@eKretz You have a lot of experience with the innards of this base... do you have any idea of what is broken and how to fix this?

 

[Blue028]

Does the wheel show full lock at the set rotation in the driver page? You can always force the wheel past the soft lock as it's only capable of resisting with the motors maximum torque.

 

[JokeMaster]

Hi Guys,
I‘m searching for new Motors for my CSW v1.
As I sent a Video to Fanatec they are telling me that the Motors are done and will cost in complete about 150 bucks to get new ones from them.
I saw that there are a lot examples in this thread that should be ok, but all links are facing old pages and are not available.
Can anyone please assist me with a link to Motors that are ok and fit to the original cooling?
I just want to have it working smooth again...
Is it possible to get new Motors without changing anythinh else?
Would this one be working?:
https://de.grandado.com/products/ne...aubendreher-tool-motor?variant=14019524198457

The best would be, that there is a fast shipping to Germany
Thanks in advance

 

[Ryko79]

Can any of you advice how to completely dissasamble the V1 clubsport base? I want to change the longer narrow belt and also check the shaft/bearings and I assume, that the only way how to change the belt is complete dissasambly.

 

[eKretz]

Hi Guys,
I‘m searching for new Motors for my CSW v1.
As I sent a Video to Fanatec they are telling me that the Motors are done and will cost in complete about 150 bucks to get new ones from them.
I saw that there are a lot examples in this thread that should be ok, but all links are facing old pages and are not available.
Can anyone please assist me with a link to Motors that are ok and fit to the original cooling?
I just want to have it working smooth again...
Is it possible to get new Motors without changing anythinh else?
Would this one be working?:
https://de.grandado.com/products/ne...aubendreher-tool-motor?variant=14019524198457

The best would be, that there is a fast shipping to Germany
Thanks in advance

That would probably not work. Although there are no specs listed at that link, it does mention possible use as an electric drill motor - those are very high amperage motors, and the Fanatec board will not handle that level of amperage. You need motors with a stall amperage of around 2.5-3 amps max at 24VDC. There are surely some motors out there somewhere that will be a drop in fit, but I was never super motivated to find them since the mod setup worked so much better for me. Good luck!

 

[eKretz]

Hello,
recently I found out that my CSW v1 is not limiting the rotation anymore, regardless of when using the SEN in Tuning Menu, driver, or in-game.
When turning the wheel gently, I can feel it having a limit set, but it just does not prevent me from keep turning anymore, with little effort.

@eKretz You have a lot of experience with the innards of this base... do you have any idea of what is broken and how to fix this?

That could be any number of things. First thing I would do is a stall amperage test on the motors. If that is okay, an oscilloscope might be useful to see what exactly is happening when the soft stop is supposed to be active.

 

[eKretz]

Can any of you advice how to completely dissasamble the V1 clubsport base? I want to change the longer narrow belt and also check the shaft/bearings and I assume, that the only way how to change the belt is complete dissasambly.

Remove the back first, then the sides. Disconnect the cables from the PCB (take pictures first if you don't have a good memory so you can remember which plugs go where and how they're routed) and remove the PCB. From there you'll be able to see what else you need to remove to get everything apart pretty easily. CAUTION: Use extreme care when working around the encoder wheel. It is easily scratched/damaged and doing so will result in a loss of position info (wheel centering, etc.).

 

[eKretz]

BTW, I have not been getting new post notifications at all for some reason, so if anyone needs to reach me, send a PM, I do get those notifications.

 

[Blue028]

OK so I had my beloved Buhler CSW go up in smoke last week, cooling was on so I don't think the motors failed. The wheel just shut off mid race, when trying to restart it (I thought the overload safety in the PSU might have tripped) the wheel will not power on and smoke began pouring out the backend. I think some of the MOSFET have been cooked, namely the power on one wich I believe is located right next to the power socket judging by smell and discolouration around it (and also lines up with where the smoke came from). But there is also some discolouration around one of the drive MOSFET but not sure what to make of it, just looking for some expertise before I begin to attend repairing it.

 

[eKretz]

PM or send me an email and I will help you through it - as long as you can handle surface mount soldering and desoldering? What kind of amperage were you pushing through? And which motors?

 

[omegasc]

That could be any number of things. First thing I would do is a stall amperage test on the motors. If that is okay, an oscilloscope might be useful to see what exactly is happening when the soft stop is supposed to be active.

hi! thanks!
turns out they identified that as a defect in the FW and asked me to revert it to 2.92, which fixed the issue.

 

[Phlano099]

Hi, new to the forum, have CSR Elite and seems it needs new motors and fans, started to disconnect while using it last night and there seems to be slight burnt smell...not good.

Anyway, found these on eBay and wanted to see if they would work:

Buhler Permanent Magnet 24 V DC Large Hobby Motor with Pulley - 5000 RPM

• Electric DC motor manufactured by Buhler
• Nominal voltage: 24 V DC
• Voltage range: 3 - 24 VDC
• No load speed at 24 VDC: 5,000 RPM
• No load current: 210 mA
• Starting current: 12.8 A
• Can be operated in either direction: Simply reverse polarity of power supply
• Shaft dimensions: 11 mm Long x 6 mm Diameter
• Comes with a shaft mounted pulley: 11 mm Long x 10 mm Diameter
• Dimensions (not including shaft): 103 mm Long x 52 mm Diameter
• 27" long power leads terminated with a 3 pin female plug
• Pulley end features 4 threaded mounting holes on 38 mm centers
• Ball bearings for long life and quiet operation
• Weight: 33 oz. (934 g)

Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Buhler-Per...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Thanks in advance...
Steve

 

[Phlano099]

Well I got two of the Mabuchi RS555PH 18150 motors to replace the stock 22130 motors...lasted about an hour...FFB was bad to start and went south from there. Found two Buhler 1.13.046.401 motors on eBay, should be in next week...

 

[Tom Paine]

Hi I'm new to the forum, sorry to necro the amazing thread but I was wondering if you guys could help me out My trusty CSR-Elite started cogging along with the smell of a burnt out motor, Checked online and found this thread and went buying these motors as direct replacements https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mabuchi-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

From what I've read I need 4500rpm motors at 12V do those look right? because after replacing the motors the wheel just spins really fast anti-clockwise and then shuts off, bear in mind the wheel was fine before just cogging tried switching the wheel pos sensor and the encoder wheel looks okay anyone else had anything like this?

Tom.

 

[Phlano099]

Hi I'm new to the forum, sorry to necro the amazing thread but I was wondering if you guys could help me out My trusty CSR-Elite started cogging along with the smell of a burnt out motor, Checked online and found this thread and went buying these motors as direct replacements https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mabuchi-RS-555-PH-12V-4500-RPM-High-Torque-5-Pole-Hobby-Motor/281546715509?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

From what I've read I need 4500rpm motors at 12V do those look right? because after replacing the motors the wheel just spins really fast anti-clockwise and then shuts off, bear in mind the wheel was fine before just cogging tried switching the wheel pos sensor and the encoder wheel looks okay anyone else had anything like this?

Tom.

These are a better choice...see page 1 of the thread

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-...h=item33fe52d6e0:g:3-QAAOSwIKNcLnuq:rk:1:pf:0

 

[Tom Paine]

These are a better choice...see page 1 of the thread

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-...h=item33fe52d6e0:g:3-QAAOSwIKNcLnuq:rk:1:pf:0

Why would that be the RPM? was looking for some new motors not 2nd hand, also I switched the polarity now its clockwise but really fast still, I'm wondering if there could be some damage to the pcb?

 

[eKretz]

The motors you installed are not correct. They are really fast because they're running twice the speed they would at 12V since the wheel runs the motors at 24V. That means they are also trying to draw twice the current they would at 12V. Excess current draw pulls the voltage down and shuts the wheel off because the power supply can't keep up. (Your link says your motor stall current= 11.8 amps @ 12VDC. At 24VDC, the stall current for both of those motors would be an astronomical 47.2 amps! Stock power supply is good for about 5 amps @24VDC. You need a motor that stalls at 3 amps or less at 24VDC if you want to use the stock power supply).