Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

[eKretz]

I mostly run 24V on my wheel - I only played with 36V for a while to see if it was a huge improvement over 24V. For me, with the Bühler motors, 24V ended up being just fine. Even for the Bühler motors 36V produced too much heat for long term reliability, and I'm looking for reliability. For the permanent 24V supply, I use the same PS that I recommend for everyone else - a Meanwell 320 watt 24VDC SP power supply. Again, this won't help you because the stock motors already draw pretty much full stall amperage from the stock power supply.

I'm not real sure what you're talking about regarding RMS power - that is relevant for AC voltage, not so much for DC from a power supply.

 

[Ryko79]

Hi there Fanatec MODers.
I would like to try some older firmwares for my MODed V1 base, but there is no download at fanatec web or anywhere esle.
Is there any hidden firmware source, or can somebody share V37 or other firmwares, or send it to me?
Thanks.

 

[Derickh]

Hi there Fanatec MODers.
I would like to try some older firmwares for my MODed V1 base, but there is no download at fanatec web or anywhere esle.
Is there any hidden firmware source, or can somebody share V37 or other firmwares, or send it to me?
Thanks.

I am not at home to share this,but if you go to the discontinued section on Fanatic website, they have 037 on there. I will share when I get home just in case you don't find it https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/suppo...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet

 

[eKretz]

I have quite a few older firmwares, but trying to email them would be hopeless as my "sometimes" internet connection is almost too slow to load a webpage most of the time. V37 is definitely my favorite though.

 

[Ryko79]

The firmware V37 I downloaded does not work during firmware flash procedure. It appears to be just an update, not a complete firmware... The file has less then 1 MB. So only way I can get to V37 or other is by you - fellow modders

 

[Derickh]

The firmware V37 I downloaded does not work during firmware flash procedure. It appears to be just an update, not a complete firmware... The file has less then 1 MB. So only way I can get to V37 or other is by you - fellow modders

I am still at work, I will post it when I get home in about 3 hr.

 

[Derickh]

Here are the fanatec updater and the 037 boot.hex files . Have a great day/evening.

 

[Ryko79]

I tried to use this V037 update but the Fanatec updater application was not able to flash this firmware to my base. It gave me an error while opening the hex file. I use the latest drivers + firmware right now.

 

[Blue028]

I tried to use this V037 update but the Fanatec updater application was not able to flash this firmware to my base. It gave me an error while opening the hex file. I use the latest drivers + firmware right now.

Try using a different PC or a laptop

 

[Ryko79]

So using notebook with Windows 7 solved the problem, V037 firmware is flashed now.
But another problem occured.
After firmware flash, the wheel is not calibrated, but there is no CAL on the wheel display...

Update: after a few tries, I was able to calibrate. After that the wheel is not centered after starting it, but in the Fanatec Wheel propoerties it is ok. SO the wheel does not start centered with V037 but it is calibrated

 

[eKretz]

After reflashing firmwares sometimes you need to recenter the wheel with the multiple button press.

 

[GeeForceP]

Hey guys, did anyone ever get to the bottom of the CSR elite wheels not connecting to the PC? Was it a new PCB jobbie? If so has anyone got a spare one they would be willing to sell? I'm almost beside myself here, a week back sim racing and this happens! It was being funny, only connecting sometimes before. But this last week has connected 1st time (except once) now, it does nothing but display a dot when I press the button to connect to PC.

(update)

That was after an hour of mucking about!

I managed to get a laptop, I had to re-flash the firmware on that before it would connect to my pc? It makes no sense to me, but it is working now. It did take a few attempts of off and on to connect to the pc, so still curious as to whether anyone solved the problem.
Thanks

 

[Simon Edwards]

This is my first post so sorry if it's off topic (or in the wrong place). I overvolted (and Buehlered) my previous G25 and it was a fine 'toy'. I recently bought a used CSW V1 (cheap because of a burned out motor). I dismantled the faulty motor and found what looked like dry skin or something. It had clogged the armature (in fact the whole can) and caused the insulation on the windings to fail. On closer inspection it turned out to be crumbled 'cellulose' from the belt. It had infiltrated the 'top' motor, the bottom was still fine. I had a pair of RS-555-18150 Mabuchis in a drawer. They are an exact replacement, except for about 500 revs slower. The wheel now works, but is SO SLOW and WEAK! My G25 beats it hands down.

On investigation, I put a meter across one of the motors, and fired up the base. The voltage varied between 9 and 11 volts (DC). Same for the other motor. I must admit that, in an effort to do a good job, I replaced the molex, all four wires, and the small ferrite beads. Perhaps I have made a wiring mistake. I'm an Electrical Fitter so I hope not. As I see it there are two pairs of wires - being two PARALLEL connections. Does anyone know if the two positives are bridged at the board, or are they separate circuits? I tried to copy the wiring from images I downloaded, and for all I can see it's right.

I have half the voltage at the motors, and half the strength and speed I would expect. I was going to put the Buehlers in but, with 10v to play with - what's the point. I have heard of Firmware wreaking havok with the FFB. I have been playing with firmwares as 037 wouldn't support the Universal Hub I bought (the base came without any rims). I have driver 221 (Beta) with firmware 109 at the moment.

Has anyone else had a halving in FFB? What causes it.

PS. Even the startup calibration routine is painfully slow. On the net the bases I've seen go right, left, and then 'snap' back to centre. Mine moves slowly (but forcefully) to centre. I have tried the belts loose, tight, everything in between. No dice. HELP! (please)

sdiddy.

 

[spacecowboy73]

delete

 

[eKretz]

The connections are paralleled at the board. Check the voltage under load to be sure it's low - the voltage is switched at a high frequency to control wheel speed and the controller probably doesn't call for 24V during calibration. Let it go through the cal routine, then set degrees of rotation to 90° and turn the wheel past the stop (be sure FF is set to 100, so it's pushing back at full power) while monitoring voltage to the motors. You should get 24VDC there. If not, check the voltage at the power supply and see if it's sagging or low to begin with.

Also check the amperage draw if you have the ability (you can measure the resistance across the motor leads with the motors unplugged and calculate a ballpark number if you don't have anything to measure amps). 24V ÷ resistance in ohms will give you the approximate stall amperage. If both motors stalled equals more than 5 amps it will draw the power supply voltage down - the stock supply is only good for about 5 amps.

 

[MichaelBolton]

Have you guys ever seen something like this?


Clubsport wheelbase v1
clubsport pedals v2
Clubsport handbrake
Clubsport shifter sq v1.5

driver version 231(beta)
Firmware version 141
Windows 10 anniversary (though it does this on all of my computers in every USB port.)

 

[eKretz]

I can't really make out what is going on there while viewing on my phone screen. Can you describe the problem?

 

[MichaelBolton]

I can't really make out what is going on there while viewing on my phone screen. Can you describe the problem?

someone replied to my video, said the position sensor is bad. Starting last week, I can't finish a single lap without the wheel losing it's center. It has a side effect of pressing many buttons at the same time. Seems the center of the wheel isn't being read properly by the sensors, as it jumps around like crazy in game.
So, what is the best course of action to get me racing again? Should I get in touch with fanatec? Should I upgrade some parts inside my wheelbase? I read on this thread about the pinched cable. I have a feeling I have the pinched cable problem because it seems to be pressing buttons erratically.

 

[eKretz]

Yup, I was thinking exactly that to myself as soon as I read the "pressing many buttons at the same time" comment. That's a definite indicator of a bad/shorted cable through the steering shaft. I would get that straightened out first and see if the position problem goes away. Try contacting Fanatec and asking if they can supply the parts. Also make sure you get rid of any sharp edges on the rear of the steering shaft at the through-hole edges. If you can't get the parts I could probably make you a new cable - PM me if you need help with it.

 

[MichaelBolton]

 

[MichaelBolton]

Looks like fanatec has upgraded these cables to be more resilliant. There is a plastic sleeve now that protects it from the sharp edge of the steering shaft.

 

[eKretz]

Yeah they started doing that quite a while ago actually. If they had just radiused the corner as it should have been they probably wouldn't have even needed the sleeve. Personally I like the slip ring solution better though.

 

[VipermanII]

Hey guys, I have a question that hopefully someone here can help me with.

My CSW V1 has an issue with wheel center, after awhile the center starts drifting away. I looked at the code wheel and there are some scratches in it. Is there any way to repair the code wheel? Or does anyone know where I could buy one?

Thanks.

 

[Simon Edwards]

Hey guys, I have a question that hopefully someone here can help me with.

My CSW V1 has an issue with wheel center, after awhile the center starts drifting away. I looked at the code wheel and there are some scratches in it. Is there any way to repair the code wheel? Or does anyone know where I could buy one?

Thanks.

Hi mate,

I had the same problem. I worked on my wheel (motor replacement) and just assumed the lines on the code wheel were somehow laser-etched or something. After having the wheel upside down, and everywhere else I realized that I too had scratched the code wheel. At first I thought, oh well, I'll contact Fanatec and order a new one. Not only did they refuse to sell me one, they refused to sell me ANY parts at all! No belts, no motors, no ribbon cable....nothing. What the???

I resorted to getting a fine-tipped felt pen (we call them Fine-Liners here in Oz) in black, and CAREFULLY drawing over the see-through bits in the scratched lines. I had about 30 lines to touch up. It's a lot easier if you strip the wheel down, and lay the code wheel on a piece of white paper. This really shows up the scratches (and how well you have colored them in).

It worked a treat for me. I had a wheel that would always wind up 5 or so degrees to the left after less than a minute of racing. It's now 95% fixed. Occasionally, when I'm on a track that requires quick steering inputs it can be out by a degree or so - but it takes at least a 20 minute race to do so. A quick calibration between sessions and I'm good to go again. I think I may have joined two lines together with the pen but - for no money - it's certainly worth a shot.

If you don't like the results a tissue will rub off (eventually) the ink you applied. The original lines are a lot harder to rub off (thankfully)

I hope this helps you.

Simon.

 

[Nick Moxley]

What was Fanatec's response in regards to the Parts you inquired about ?

 

[VipermanII]

What was Fanatec's response in regards to the Parts you inquired about ?

When I was having problems with my fans not working, I also brought up this issue.

Support told me they no longer stock code wheels for the V1 and I was SOL.

I will try the pen method. Thank you!

 

[Blue028]

If you have access to a laser printer you could try print your own new one, 500400 lines you need. Will be trying to make my own when I can.

Or another aternative you can also move the sensor to try avoid the scratched area wich I had done successfully on my csr elite

 

[eKretz]

Actually it's 400 lines. I just counted one out for someone that had the same issue a few weeks ago.

I can't add anymore info than the other very helpful gentlemen have already given other than to say you would probably be better served using paint rather than a felt tipped pen/marker - it will block the light better. I've done a few of these repairs also. I like to use painter's tape to mask the line(s) then paint.

BTW @Simon Edwards - did you find what was causing your low voltage problem? Or were you just checking voltage during calibration and find that you didn't have a problem after all? Might be helpful to others in the future to know how you solved it if there really was a problem.

 

[Madmaxxiv]

Hello eKretz,

first of all I would like to say thanks for that impressive thread and the details that you and the other members have posted as these were and are very helpful and inspiring.

I´m new in this forum and I faced the same problem with my motors in my CSR elite....now for the second time.
I believed in the service rep from Fanatec on the phone when he said that with the new motors it won´t happen again and 8 month later (I´m driving occasionally only) I had again an electric BBQ.

I was able to grab some motors from Bühler on ebay from a dutch supplier: 1.13.043.237
They are rated for 24V, 6Ncm, 4000 rpm with a terminal resistance of 4.2 Ohm which results in 5.7 amps starting/blocking current if I do the calculation U=R*I (24=4,2*I).
On the Buhler site I compared almost similar motors with mine and with a terminal resistance of 4,2 a starting/blocking current of 5 amps is mentioned.
Beside that they are almost similar to your motors from dimensions and performance - the plus on my motors is that they are not crimped together but screwed which makes the air cooling and (hopefully not necessary) maintenance a lot easier.

Your air cooling is pretty nice and I adopted it but in another way as you can see in the pictures.
Brass pipes were soldered together by myself and when I attached the pump to the piping it performed extremely well, pushing the air through the backplate (with 4 holes) and also cooling the brushes.
I just had to make the holes in the plastic plate where the brushes are attached a little bit bigger:

A Hailea V-60 airpump with 60 l/m was available for a nice price......I know it´s overkill but better cooler than BBQ.
I also ordered 3 little fans (40x40mm) for blowing the motor cans and one for the driver chip on the PCB.

The PSU is a Meanwell 24V/15A as the 320 was not available - do you think it is possible to drive FF100 in the Fanatec wheel setup with that PSU or would other issues/problems occur?
I´m not the driver who wants extreme power but powerful precision and I really love to have a bigger (real) steering wheel attached to my modded base.
You posted that you have overvolted the motors which results in higher current, I assume that
the blocking current of nearly 12 amps in my setup will not harm the drivers on the PCB!?

Due to my job as sales representative I´m short on free time but I hope to get the wheel reassembled within december so that I can drive the xmas race on the Nordschleife and can post pictures of the finished mod.

Here is my motor, available on eBay:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Buhler-Motor...d=link&campid=5335953668&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Piping (4mm & 10mm brass pipes)

Fortunately the holes in the bracket were matching the motor except that I had to drill to 4mm for airpipes inlet and the screws.

As you can see here, the brass pipes are going into the motor:

Pulley side and clearance of the pipes

Inside the 10mm pipe

Here is the first test run (with 2 hoses, the final version is closed on the top side and has
pipe soldered at a 90 degree angle as you see above)

As soon as I have finished my mod, I will post further pictures.

Keep on racing.....

 

[eKretz]

Max,

Great job bud, that looks like a very nice job you did so far. Those look like great motors -it's nice to be able to take them apart for sure - makes for much easier drilling of the endbells! I think you should be fine at 12 amps, the board should be able to take it. I would be sure that you remove the factory heat sink on the motor bridge FETs and apply some better quality thermal compound than the stock crap just to be safe. The fans are a good cheap insurance too. I think you will be very happy once you are done and have it all together.