Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*
- Thread starter eKretz
- 3,607 comments
- 606,865 views
I do not see where they speak of this in the isiforums.net thread. Though it is the first result when you google search "t500rs losing strength"
How do I not get you wrong when you say things like: "As far as the manual vs.FAQ warning, does it really matter? "
Yes it matter, you said:
"I also remember there being explicit instructions in the T500 user manual about leaving the wheel powered on until the cooling fan shuts itself off thermostatically or you risk ruining the FFB motor."
That is not what the instuctions say, you are embellishing and this is why I quoted it from FAQ.
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The posts you googled. I do not know what you are doing. You saying that you already knew of these things but you are googling for them and keep editting your post to add.
You need read those other two topics you found and added.
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18475570 This is michelcleo. It is his photos on second page. He posted here too.
http://www.avforums.com/forums/pc-gaming/1719301-thrustmaster-t500-rs-faulty-issues.html
This seems to be him too. Michelcleo are these you postings?
I do not need to defend the other wheel, I do not care. I say I wondered if the reason people did not complain except one about the strength decreasing was because of the motor size. Maybe it was not running full capacity.
You stated that it was, but you do not know really and kept pushing it seemed. No? If you push I push to I guess. Sorry
I do no want to argue so I am sorry to have offended if so. I seemed to have messed up the topic so I will go.
Do you not sleep in America? haha!
- 73
- warwickshire
- 61
- sheffield_united
Just put 24v on my two motors that i have just removed from my Elite,
they both seem to spin correctly. So my question is why does my wheel feel grindy/notchy. (The one thing i did find on the test is that one of the motors was easier to stop than the other with the 24v applied)
which motors do fanatec use now ? my invoice for the new ones says V2 motor block.
they both seem to spin correctly. So my question is why does my wheel feel grindy/notchy. (The one thing i did find on the test is that one of the motors was easier to stop than the other with the 24v applied)
which motors do fanatec use now ? my invoice for the new ones says V2 motor block.
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
ViaContra, I said I remembered the isi forum one off the top of my head. It is a poster named duvel I believe. I saw the posts because before I got my wheel I researched both wheels to see which I liked better. I read an awful lot of stuff about both wheels on many different forums. The others I just did a quick google because I don't recall which forums the posts were on, and if you re-read my post above you will see that I pointed out that one of the links was more in-depth info about michelcleo's wheel. Since he seems to have posted in several places under different names, perhaps I counted some of his posts I saw in different places. There's no need for you to go anywhere or quit the post, I just read your initial post as you stating that there were no problems with FFB weakening on T500s when clearly that is not the case just because noone noticed it yet. Until we get some objective tests it makes no sense to say nobody is having FFB weakening just because some people on the internet haven't noticed any. I bet if you ran a poll here, most Fanatec users would say their wheels don't weaken either. Most either don't run the FFB high enough or don't notice the drop-off because it is so gradual.
As far as the manual vs. FAQ thing, that is semantics. Whether it is in a Thrustmaster manual or a Thrustmaster FAQ it effectively makes no difference. I apologize for mixing up the words. It had been some time since I read it and I didn't even remember it was in an FAQ instead of the manual. I think you are being a bit picky about that, and I certainly did not embellish. The FAQ says what I said it did. Embellishment is exaggeration or adding to the facts, neither of which I did, IMO. They may not have come right out and used the word damage, but by saying "it works this way to protect the motor" they are saying the same thing.
I never stated the T500's FFB did weaken, I only stated that I had seen reports of it weakening. If you look at my later post you will see that I said
So anyways stick around, just let's keep the so-and-so said stuff out of it and rely on tests. We have a guy here that can definitively answer that question once and for all as soon as he figures a way to measure it. One could probably run wheelcheck.exe from iracing when the wheel is cold and after it's hot and see the difference there too, I bet.
And yeah, I do sleep, sometimes! Got a bad back and chronic back pain from failed back surgery so sometimes I don't sleep so good.
Steve, the Fana-buchi I dissected is a "V2" motor. They are exactly the same as the old motors, Fanatec just say that the older ones were a "bad batch." The motors will still spin under no load even after they are damaged and make the FFB notchy. The easier one to stop is the damaged one.
As far as the manual vs. FAQ thing, that is semantics. Whether it is in a Thrustmaster manual or a Thrustmaster FAQ it effectively makes no difference. I apologize for mixing up the words. It had been some time since I read it and I didn't even remember it was in an FAQ instead of the manual. I think you are being a bit picky about that, and I certainly did not embellish. The FAQ says what I said it did. Embellishment is exaggeration or adding to the facts, neither of which I did, IMO. They may not have come right out and used the word damage, but by saying "it works this way to protect the motor" they are saying the same thing.
I never stated the T500's FFB did weaken, I only stated that I had seen reports of it weakening. If you look at my later post you will see that I said
So anyways stick around, just let's keep the so-and-so said stuff out of it and rely on tests. We have a guy here that can definitively answer that question once and for all as soon as he figures a way to measure it. One could probably run wheelcheck.exe from iracing when the wheel is cold and after it's hot and see the difference there too, I bet.
And yeah, I do sleep, sometimes! Got a bad back and chronic back pain from failed back surgery so sometimes I don't sleep so good.
Steve, the Fana-buchi I dissected is a "V2" motor. They are exactly the same as the old motors, Fanatec just say that the older ones were a "bad batch." The motors will still spin under no load even after they are damaged and make the FFB notchy. The easier one to stop is the damaged one.
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- 73
- warwickshire
Hows this sound ?
Wheel at 520 degrees turning circle, i'll hold the wheel at 520 and then add a bag to the outsde of teh spoke untill the wheel is dragged down to 720 degrees.
Then after 30 min 1 hour 2 hours ect i'll do the same and take weight from the bag untill its gone from 720 back to 540 again, the difference in weight is the bit i need ?
There's no doubt in my mind that around teh hour mark the bag with orginal weight should drop the wheel from 520 to 720 as when the ffb gets weaker so does the wheel past its soft lock
so i'll measure the softlocks power as its the same as the ffb loss
Mates are coming round later so we can do some time trials as im abit bored of teh games i have now.
I could start at 80% power as that does'nt take long before its weaker than 60%
Wheel at 520 degrees turning circle, i'll hold the wheel at 520 and then add a bag to the outsde of teh spoke untill the wheel is dragged down to 720 degrees.
Then after 30 min 1 hour 2 hours ect i'll do the same and take weight from the bag untill its gone from 720 back to 540 again, the difference in weight is the bit i need ?
There's no doubt in my mind that around teh hour mark the bag with orginal weight should drop the wheel from 520 to 720 as when the ffb gets weaker so does the wheel past its soft lock
so i'll measure the softlocks power as its the same as the ffb loss Mates are coming round later so we can do some time trials as im abit bored of teh games i have now.
I could start at 80% power as that does'nt take long before its weaker than 60%
- 4,159
- Ottawa
In the example of Peltier cooling in this picture, where would the heat sensor go?
- 227
- Montreal
- SUPERNOVADAVE
- SUPERNOVADAVE
Okay if you viewed Fana-Blog 2 you saw an example of undesireable pulley movement.
Bone stock you can slightly improve this with no new parts, for the 2-Rib belted CSW/Elite bases.
The stock motors and the large pulley they drive each have four ribs. If we number them 1-4 with 1 being closest to the motor and 4 furthest away, Fanatec uses 2 & 3. The middle.
Get yer motor belt moved to 1-2 (on the RHS motor pulleys and the large LHS pulley they drive) for about 15% less bending leverage on the pulley/shaft! Everything stays aligned and safe. Nothing bad will happen and slight good will result. Unless you have a few extra thumbs and are not comfortable going under the hood. There is no reason or benefit related to using 2-3 if you are comfortable with minor tweaks such as this one. Unless you are OCD and "need" one empty rib on either side of the belt of course.
Stock:
RacerXX Suggestion:
undesireable pulley movement. !!
have you stopped to think that it is because you checked this without the motors being installed in the heatsink case.
- 4,159
- Ottawa
- 227
- Montreal
- SUPERNOVADAVE
- SUPERNOVADAVE
Yes, I see now, did not know that even existed,
They are saying:
Were you thinking on running those as we are using the wheel?
this type of cooler is not designed to run for long periods and would require a seperate powersupply to run it.
simply not a good choice to run in this application.
- 4,159
- Ottawa
- 4,159
- Ottawa
Ok, so more like something use for an aquarium, but circulating in tubes.
- 4,159
- Ottawa
Yes, is there any exisitng water cooled electric engine, like car engine, that we would just have to connect to water circulation. Would make sense since they all seem dependent on stable temperature to optimaly perform, like a car engine
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
The R/C (boat) guys usually run slip-on water jackets or wrap copper coils around the motor just like RacerXX has shown in his pic. Then you pump liquid through the tubing to a heat exchanger/radiator to remove heat from the water. A Peltier could be used at the heat exchanger to help get things even chillier. I don't think it would be a good idea to run one of those Peltier motor wrap sinks in the wheel directly on the motor since the condensation might get water in places you don't want it. I don't think anyone offers such small electric motors with built-in water cooling, but they are offered and used on higher horsepower larger motors all the time.
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- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Also, for whoever asked, the temp sensor would still need to be on or as close as possible to the motor can if you use it. I will probably leave mine unhooked and just run a temp gauge, I plan on my cooling setup keeping everything cool without need for the sensor. Most of the R/C water cooling setups used these days are used on boats, for the obvious reason that you don't need a heat exchanger at all. They just use the thermal capacity of the body of water they are floating on and continually pull fresh, cool water into the cooling setup then spit it back into the body of water. The nice thing is they don't even need a pump, they just position a pickup under the hull that pushes water through the system when the boat moves forward. To effectively use water cooling on R/C cars you need a very lightweight and small setup. Some places are now putting out water cooling kits for R/C cars though. Not sure how effective they are but I have seen a few.
- 136
- Kingston
This thread has become very interesting... can't wait to see what become of all these projects 
- 4,159
- Ottawa
Yes, something like that, would be a great mod kit.
all is needed is finding a jacket that fits the fana-bushi, or a replacment to the fanabushi that as a jacket available.
Motor Water Cooling
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
540 and 550 size jackets will fit the Mabuchi motors in the wheels as it is a standard size. 
Something to note though... You cannot see this in that photo, but many of the water jackets actually circulate the water right up against the motor can and seal on it using o-rings. I'm not sure about the one you posted though.
Something to note though... You cannot see this in that photo, but many of the water jackets actually circulate the water right up against the motor can and seal on it using o-rings. I'm not sure about the one you posted though.
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