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540 and 550 size jackets will fit the Mabuchi motors in the wheels as it is a standard size.
So like this one?
ham-jack-540XL
540 and 550 size jackets will fit the Mabuchi motors in the wheels as it is a standard size.
Ideal for fishing, luggage, post room etc.
Tare function
Auto power off
Over load indication
Low battery indication
With blue backlight display
Power: 3V (2 x AAA batteries included)
High precision strain gauge sensors system
Very simple to operate
Small and light suitable to carry
Unit: kg, oz, lb, jin
Capacity: 40kg/10g
Colour: dark blue
1 Year Warranty
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40kg-Port...tingGoods_FishingAcces_RL&hash=item1c280f2a64
That anygood ?
If so i'll order today and will hopefully have some results for the weekend
Facinating, so if someone runs the wheel at a moderate FFB level in the game/sim, he may not experience, or so slightly, not feel the weakening of the FFB on the wheel. He might not even have any issue with the motors.
It would certainly explain the difference in reporting feeling the effect or not.
The irksome part is when people insist it isn't happening without even testing.
Oh no, have the Negative Nancies shown up?
Funny clip, listen to the end...
http://www.moviesounds.com/vinny/drip.wav
hahahahahahahahahahaha - i knew it was you hahahahahahaha
Dave, since you clearly don't seem to realize this, RacerXX has you on ignore. For the rest of the folks party to this odd behavior, apparently, according to RacerXX, novadave has been following RacerXX from forum to forum and doing his best to harass him at every opportunity. It would appear he is now accusing me of being RacerXX. Immaturity has no age limit, I suppose.
If this continues, it would seem he'll be making it onto another ignore list. I would much prefer everyone remaining civil and acting like adults, I do not like to use ignore lists, IMO, everyone has contributions to make, and I've seen Dave make them before. However, when signal-to-noise ratio gets to be too high, it tends to get a bit aggravating, not to mention time consuming.
This is my first, and will be my last, OT post on this subject.
Interesting. I like testing
However, I wonder if that left turn problem in Forza is actually locking up the firmware on the wheel in such a way that it stops measuring the temp and thus controlling the motor drive? This runaway condition might explain why leaving it in that state would burn up the motors, even if it only happened once. The PIC chips used in the wheels don't really "multi-thread" so if it got into a state it couldn't get out of, it would never make it back to the code that said "hey! back off the power! I'm burning up over here!"
It seems it would be interesting to test with your dummy load instead of the motors. Though it'd take some messing around to get the wheel to do it I guess.
The temperature sensor is glued in place between two of the heat sink fins
So the sensor reads the temperature of the heat sink and when the heat sink reach a temperature above 50ºC the wheel goes to a 20% power reduction.Above 50ºC / 125º F the current is suddenly cut to about 80% of maximum
I just use a cheap remote thermometer from Radio Shack. It updates temperature every 15 seconds FWIW. I dremelled the probe to a thinner size. It has a min / max memory and reads from -58 to 158º F and can do ºC .
There are some nice PC or Automotive oriented gages too including some with blue or red LEDs to match Fanatec displays. There are also some that will beep or blink if some preset temperature is hit.