Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

  • Thread starter super_gt
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Would these settings be applicable to the DD GT Pro 8nm? 👀
Do yourself a favor and scroll back a few pages. @PirovacBoy has written a few fantastic posts explaining how things work. It will give you the tools to fine tune your setup productively.

At this point i think if someone copy and pasted a few of the posts he’s made on this thread and created a sticky it would answer so many peoples questions and help them help themselves. I can’t think of anywhere on the web that’s remotely as useful as some of the posts here.
 
Anyone still getting freezes with GT DD X use light blue PS4 mode. It definitely works.
Wheel will automatically go into blue mode though so you have to reset it every time you turn on PS5.

Been going back and forth with settings, trying to have good feel but not a ton of oscillations or crazy harsh under-steer vibes.


Ended up here so far:

SEN AUTO
FFB 100
FUL OFF
NDP 40
NFR OFF
NIN OFF
INT 5
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR OFF
DPR OFF

GT7
Torque 3 or 4
Sensitivity 8 or 9

I kind of wish the settings in game were more granular. I'd like to be able to set Sensitivity to 3.5 in game for instance. 10 steps isn't really enough.

Another cool thing I discovered is that when using no ABS, if you lock up a wheel you get a ton of feedback which I never noticed before 1.49. Maybe just because I didn't use no ABS very often. Not sure.
 
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BWX
Anyone still getting freezes with GT DD X use light blue PS4 mode. It definitely works.
Wheel will automatically go into blue mode though so you have to reset it every time you turn on PS5.
Interesting possible insight on discos. The light blue mode makes the base identify as a CSL elite which is the last of the belt drive PS compatable bases. This makes it compatable w older games that won’t recognize the newer bases

However that means games will be using an older set of FF values as the belt drive systems have much less response then the DDs so you’ll be giving up some of the enhanced performance that the DDs offer.

Maybe some data rate differences or smoother FF signals make the difference in disconnects? Given some people having success w cable changes, powered hubs, grounding and cable routing, rapid signal changes, noise or signal jitter may part of the problem.

While a useful workaround, light blue compatable mode will limit getting what the base is capable of so its at best a compromise
 
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Interesting possible insight on discos. The light blue mode makes the base identify as a CSL elite which is the last of the belt drive PS compatable bases. This makes it compatable w older games that won’t recognize the newer bases

However that means games will be using an older set of FF values as the belt drive systems have much less response then the DDs so you’ll be giving up some of the enhanced performance that the DDs offer.

Maybe some data rate differences or smoother FF signals make the difference in disconnects? Given some people having success w cable changes, powered hubs, grounding and cable routing, rapid signal changes, noise or signal jitter may part of the problem.

While a useful workaround, light blue compatable mode will limit getting what the base is capable of so its at best a compromise
I was told there is no loss in functionality.. I'd have to do some testing to make sure but it does feel the same as blue light mode to me. And no discos so far, except when I forgot to put it back into light blue mode one day and got a freeze. Then checked, put it back to light blue, and all good. Hope they can figure all this out soon! I might also try a powered USB hub as some people have good luck with that too.
 
BWX
I was told there is no loss in functionality.. I'd have to do some testing to make sure but it does feel the same as blue light mode to me. And no discos so far, except when I forgot to put it back into light blue mode one day and got a freeze. Then checked, put it back to light blue, and all good. Hope they can figure all this out soon! I might also try a powered USB hub as some people have good luck with that too.
AFAIK the base doesn’t behave any differently, just sends CSL elite as the identifier to the game. How or if the game devs adjust the FF depending on base is the question.

Does it vary by brand? obviously yes but does it vary by model in the same brand? Depends on the game and how the provided SDK works - I have not tested it yet (I’m not having issues) so don’t know. But if its working ok its better than suffering
 
BWX
Wheel will automatically go into blue mode though so you have to reset it every time you turn on PS5.
This is a bug with the firmware, every time you turn off the base in light blue mode, then when you start it, it switches to dark blue mode.
 
Interesting possible insight on discos. The light blue mode makes the base identify as a CSL elite which is the last of the belt drive PS compatable bases. This makes it compatable w older games that won’t recognize the newer bases

However that means games will be using an older set of FF values as the belt drive systems have much less response then the DDs so you’ll be giving up some of the enhanced performance that the DDs offer.

Maybe some data rate differences or smoother FF signals make the difference in disconnects? Given some people having success w cable changes, powered hubs, grounding and cable routing, rapid signal changes, noise or signal jitter may part of the problem.

While a useful workaround, light blue compatable mode will limit getting what the base is capable of so its at best a compromise
You are definitely wrong about light blue led (Ps4 mode) the game still recognises the DD+ as GT DD Extreme.

The purple led is the compatibility mode and recognises the base as a csl elite wheelbase.

You can check it in game even in the calibration section of the options, and also in button configuration.
 
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You are definitely wrong about light blue led (Ps4 mode) the game still recognises the DD+ as GT DD Extreme.

The purple led is the compatibility mode and recognises the base as a csl elite wheelbase.

You can check it in game even in the calibration section of the options, and also in button configuration.
Doh!!😜Brain Fade My bad - RTFM - thx for clearing it up
 
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Soooo..

Ive been getting wicked oscillating at speed and bouncy bouncy in the corners. Close as i can describe it is waterskiing ocean side. Anyway, dropped int to 0 for no good reason and the oscillation virtually disappeared and the corners are now waterskiing bay side.

Unexpected.
 
Oscillations can be reduced massively with in - game sensitivity to 1. The higher the in game ffb power the lower the sensitivity should be. In Gran Turismo games Sensitivity is always like Dynamic Range. The lower the value bigger the difference between a small hit on curb to a hard hit on the wall for example. In value 10 for example the smallest bump is almost the same as hitting the wall.

Interpolation is good in 2 and max 6 at most cars.
FEI always at max,
NDP is a filter that goes on top of the ffb signal. So the lower the purest the signal is. In order to not loose much detail but not have massive oscillations should not exceed value 35
NFR the lowest the better also. Not above 5 helps in oscillations. above 5 it is clearly loosing details
NIN small values also helps . It should be used especially in light weight steering wheels.
 
just for clarity as we all sort out the ffb etc

Yesterday, i was at: (330mm round)
In game tor:9, sensi: 6
Ndp:19
Nfr: 0
Nin: 0
Int: 2
Rest at 100(0 force of course)

Somewhat controllable, but still aggressive oscillating with high speeds resulting in it getting a bit silly.

Int to zero and it was significantly reduced. Not zero, but definitely in the wow category.
 
Soooo..

Ive been getting wicked oscillating at speed and bouncy bouncy in the corners. Close as i can describe it is waterskiing ocean side. Anyway, dropped int to 0 for no good reason and the oscillation virtually disappeared and the corners are now waterskiing bay side.

Unexpected.
This is what turning sensitivity down in-game alleviates
 
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Sensitivity in game is about how tightly the steering rack is connected to the car’s wheels. Think suspension bushings - at 10 its steel on steel, no give. At 1 its the softest rubber so it compresses a lot before responding. How quickly and sharply the suspension movement comes through is moderated by this connection.

7 feels about right to me - turning it down to 1 just to cure oscillation takes away too much from steering feel. Reducing FOR on those cars that need it is a better way to go IMO
 
FMW
Anyone notice The GT World Series today in Prague is still using DD Pro? They made a big deal in Canada, the last Series race location, they would be going to the DD+ beginning in Prague. Curious....
I’d guess dodging the embarrassment of restaurant level mixer oscillations with the wrong settings.

Its surprising there is still nothing regarding force implementation.
 
I’d guess dodging the embarrassment of restaurant level mixer oscillations with the wrong settings.

Its surprising there is still nothing regarding force implementation.
Is that really just an Extreme issue? I was getting those on my Pro too.
 
Hey, I noticed something yesterday at the live event, when I was at the Montreal show, they announced that in Prague, they will be using the new DD extreme, but yesterday on the live stream, they were not could this all be linked to the news that came out earlier in the week the bankruptcy????
 
Hey, I noticed something yesterday at the live event, when I was at the Montreal show, they announced that in Prague, they will be using the new DD extreme, but yesterday on the live stream, they were not could this all be linked to the news that came out earlier in the week the bankruptcy????
Maybe, but doubtful, as that isn’t really new news. It’s kinda weird, but given how 1.49-50 has been hit or miss on a lot of cars, they might have just had their hands full?
 
FMW
Anyone notice The GT World Series today in Prague is still using DD Pro? They made a big deal in Canada, the last Series race location, they would be going to the DD+ beginning in Prague. Curious....
Yes! I absolutely clocked this watching the stream.

They definitely promoted the wheel in Montreal, specifically stating that it would be used in this round and it was absent.

When the 1.49 update added the functionality of the colored rings, I figured that was for looks for the Prague event, but maybe the lack of implementing support for lap times on the display and whatnot meant they just didn’t finish programming support to where they wanted it to be for the debut?
 
I don't know if this is why the didn't use it but my new GT DD X wheelbase (new after RMA'd the old one) was perfectly stable before 1.49, then the first time running 1.49 I was getting a lot of freezing type disconnects. Maybe they tested it and had the same issue asnd decided to go with the Pro? Hard to say. I've never had a freeze in PS4 mode though so I hope that helps them narrow down the problem.
 
maybe financial? Some dispute between PD and Endor/Fanatec over who’s paying for the wheels?
Unlikely. PD did send out DD Extremes to at least some of the world tour participants before the Prague event.
Maybe it didn't arrive in time for everyone, or it was too short notice so they decided to keep the DD Pro for equal chances.
 
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Unlikely. PD did send out DD Extremes to at least some of the world tour participants before the Prague event.
Maybe it didn't arrive in time for everyone, or it was too short notice so they decided to keep the DD Pro for equal chances.
So no link with the famous freezing/disconnect issue of the CS DD+ with PS5 games?
 
I don't know if it happens to anyone else, after the last update the steering wheel vibrates a lot (a lot with fast cars) in a straight line.

Yesterday I almost lost a finger on the Norcheife straight : D

Can you recommend me which settings should I change to mitigate this effect?

Thanks!
 
I don't know if it happens to anyone else, after the last update the steering wheel vibrates a lot (a lot with fast cars) in a straight line.

Yesterday I almost lost a finger on the Norcheife straight : D

Can you recommend me which settings should I change to mitigate this effect?

Thanks!
Adjust NDP up
Adjust INT up
Adjust FFB down

You have to experiment to find a balance between oscillations on straights and still having good feel and FFB everywhere else.
It will be different for each car type and tire type as well.
 
I have these settings:

SEN AUTO
FFB 100
FUL OFF
NDP 40
NFR OFF
NIN OFF
INT 5
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR OFF
DPR OFF

I will try with

NDP 60

INT 10


Thanks!
 
I have these settings:

SEN AUTO
FFB 100
FUL OFF
NDP 40
NFR OFF
NIN OFF
INT 5
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR OFF
DPR OFF

I will try with

NDP 60

INT 10


Thanks
I'd try INT 6, FFB 90, NDP 40 too, just to see what it feels like. And you can also reduce Force and sensitivity in game. There are probably a million combinations of all these settings so it makes it hard to say for sure which settings will work for which car and it also depends on the tires. If you just plug in settings and never change them per car or per tire type, it will always be a compromise. I pretty much make small adjustment for each car I drive to reduce oscillations, but still have nice, communicative FFB. After while of doing that, you can do it quickly with just one run down a straight in a few minutes. It's usually INT and NDP that make the most difference, but overall FFB level from game and FFB strength setting on wheel also make a big difference. Even going from 100 to 90 FFB makes a big difference.

And if you ever mess around with SEN on wheel, that also makes a massive difference compared to leaving it on AUTO (edit- the lower you go the more you need to reduce other settings to compensate)
 
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