Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

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I don't know if it happens to anyone else, after the last update the steering wheel vibrates a lot (a lot with fast cars) in a straight line.

Yesterday I almost lost a finger on the Norcheife straight : D

Can you recommend me which settings should I change to mitigate this effect?

Thanks!

Turn FOR down to 50-70 depending on taste and car. Steering feel is still good but the oscillations are much reduced or eliminated. FOR seems to be the main component in the suspension movement that PD uses with the Fanatec SDK.

While these others can reduce it they have downsides if set too high:

NDP above 15-20 starts to numb all the FFB

INT above 10 removes detail. 2-5 is fine

FFB level affects all FFB related effects not just the suspension related one - this is the master “volume” control

In game sensitivity also can help but this is controlling the stiffness of the steering rack connection to the wheels, like bushings in a real car - the range goes from 1 - really rubbery to 10 - full metal connections.

All of these can be used in combination to adjust to your liking but FOR is the key. I have 2 setups, one w FOR high for most cars one lower for the rockets so easy to switch on the wheel. All other settings are the same
 
So ive been using my 330mm wheel predominantly since 1.49. Yesterday, gave the 300mm extreme wheel which came with it a try and while it was fine for the most part it didn’t swap in properly, no light color change on the wheel, and then had a disconnect where i could still use the gas and steer, but lost shifting. Both were cleared with reboots but it was interesting to note that with the 330mm I haven’t really hit too many bugs. Kinda makes me wonder if pd’s support for the wheel(300ddx), is the culprit as i for dang sure have not touched drivers since the first day(455).

Also…you guys notice the v2 pedals have been sold out for weeks? Really wish they would release a force equipped podium grade pedal system
 
The DD+ is proving to be leaps and bounds enhanced over the DD1/DD2s with much higher response rates and fidelity. The nuance is more noticeable going back and forth. Empirically their site shows it, but there needs to be more back to back comparisons, same tracks, same cars, same versions of the simulations. And the past few weeks with the changes to some GT7 car settings internally with v1.49, I had to check things and Yeaup, DD+ is noticeably above.
 
Buy the Clubsport V3 pedals, they are great.
Ive been staring them for the better part of the year knowing that as soon as i pulled the trigger, fanatec would finally release a force enabled pedal set. Mac house so the whole buttkicker thing is too cumbersome to attempt.
 
Also..i missed when they actually went sold out, so the time frames a guess, but maybe 4 weeks the v2’s are mia.

Generally speaking, people like the brake of the v2, and gas on the v3’s. Be nice if there were a set where both are nice. That and again, im stuck on the notion that a force enabled pedal set combined with the ddx and maybe, hopefully, a force enabled shifter would provide 3 points of contact and be as good as buying a laptop and running butkickers.

…i like to dream…
 
V2s may be stuck in the Endor/Fanatec insolvency drama. Reports of Chinese suppliers not being paid could mean they are only selling what’s been committed and recieved. There’s no “Pre-order” future date option on pretty much all out of stock items. So might be a long wait for the V2s

Really love the V3 inverted but its pricey. Damper on the gas is a nice option

BTW clutch on the v3 is nicer if that matters
 
Noticed that too with a lack of preorders. Guessing your right with vendors.

Good to hear with the clutch. Think the clutch would be more important if pd/sony would add some feedback for grinding gears. Often when a gear is missed the only way to know is the car not accelerating..and that little noise. We all know the car is much more upset than that irl. Hoping when the force aspect is implemented we will get a little eff ewe buddy when grinding. We shall see.

I should probably sit on my hands, given the shenanigans over at fanatec.. its funny, even with the issues, the ffb is so much better on the wheel its making me wanna get all spendy ^^
 
The game’s clutch implentation is acutally not too bad - its variable throughout the range, not just on/off, and you can set max/min/deadzone like the other pedals, so you can control the engagement range

And depending on the car, there is some sense of slipage as you let off- some stall easy, some don’t. Linearity adjustment would be nice here but for all the pedals as well

Yeah the missed shift sound is not the greatest effect - a grind sort of sound would be better. The linkages on the pedal do okay w overall feel but whats really missing immersion wise is that change in pressure and a bit of judder as the clutch disk engages

As to Fanatec future, any new pedal set is likely a ways off maybe a year or more unless it was already set to produce. And the insolvency issues are probably 6-12 months as well, even w some cash flow fix, more stuff arriving sooner than 3 months doesn’t feel too likely - just guessing. Overall think they’ll survive tho

So if its in stock and you need/want it, figure how much value you get over that time frame and if its worth it
 
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V2 was on sale for $200 Black Friday last year. I doubt it will go on sale again this BF, but if it does I'm getting it. LC setup changes on V2 look so much more inviting and efficient than V3.

Have used CSL LC with 3DRap elastomers for nearly a year, then changed to V3 for about a year now.
V3 is not perfect, but definitely premium in look and feel. V3 BPK kit is a must purchase IMO (unless you prefer really light brake feel). My V3 creaks a bit, so I had to some tape to mask that sound. Also need to put little care on BPK kit install, making sure LC shaft does not rub against the red LC chamber (you'll feel the friction when you apply the brakes).

It took me little while to dial in my V3, but it works well overall. I still struggle little on trail-braking on high-end, but it's not the equipment but my lack of skill. One last minor thing I'll say about V3 is that it's not as flexible in terms of pedal adjustments from side to side (V2 and CSL pedals can shift pedal gaps). Adjustments to flat pedal plates helps a bit (in my case, no more knee pain).

I've been eyeing DD+ Extreme bundle, but disconnect comment from Kriptical scares me still.
 
V2 was on sale for $200 Black Friday last year. I doubt it will go on sale again this BF, but if it does I'm getting it. LC setup changes on V2 look so much more inviting and efficient than V3.

Have used CSL LC with 3DRap elastomers for nearly a year, then changed to V3 for about a year now.
V3 is not perfect, but definitely premium in look and feel. V3 BPK kit is a must purchase IMO (unless you prefer really light brake feel). My V3 creaks a bit, so I had to some tape to mask that sound. Also need to put little care on BPK kit install, making sure LC shaft does not rub against the red LC chamber (you'll feel the friction when you apply the brakes).

It took me little while to dial in my V3, but it works well overall. I still struggle little on trail-braking on high-end, but it's not the equipment but my lack of skill. One last minor thing I'll say about V3 is that it's not as flexible in terms of pedal adjustments from side to side (V2 and CSL pedals can shift pedal gaps). Adjustments to flat pedal plates helps a bit (in my case, no more knee pain).

I've been eyeing DD+ Extreme bundle, but disconnect comment from Kriptical scares me still.
That's funny, I had a creak in my v3, but it was actually I just needed to tighten them to the TRX adjustable plate.

I had one friend with an issue where the DD+ would "stick" for a second or two, as usual, it was 1 or 2 things he refused to try to confirm till 2 weeka of misery, it was a USB switch and a typical bad Amazon cable. He went back to the original cable directly to the back of the PS5, and surprise surprise never again.
 
V2 was on sale for $200 Black Friday last year. I doubt it will go on sale again this BF, but if it does I'm getting it. LC setup changes on V2 look so much more inviting and efficient than V3.

Have used CSL LC with 3DRap elastomers for nearly a year, then changed to V3 for about a year now.
V3 is not perfect, but definitely premium in look and feel. V3 BPK kit is a must purchase IMO (unless you prefer really light brake feel). My V3 creaks a bit, so I had to some tape to mask that sound. Also need to put little care on BPK kit install, making sure LC shaft does not rub against the red LC chamber (you'll feel the friction when you apply the brakes).

It took me little while to dial in my V3, but it works well overall. I still struggle little on trail-braking on high-end, but it's not the equipment but my lack of skill. One last minor thing I'll say about V3 is that it's not as flexible in terms of pedal adjustments from side to side (V2 and CSL pedals can shift pedal gaps). Adjustments to flat pedal plates helps a bit (in my case, no more knee pain).

I've been eyeing DD+ Extreme bundle, but disconnect comment from Kriptical scares me still.
Funny thing is..knock on wood.. using my f1esportsv2 yoke and 330mm round with this:


Things have been pretty good. Its the official wheel which is a little funny. Its made me wonder if some of this isn’t more pd / sony than fanatec. Mostly because im too terrified to touch the drivers 😆 haven’t even plugged it into a computer since the first week. So, when things come and go, sony’s the only one driving that bus.

Anyway, post 1.49 the ddX is earning a pretty decent thumbs up in its performance. You can get a nice visceral feel in a lot of cars(in VR), and it feels as if the wheel has a lot more to give once PD provides it.
 
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That's funny, I had a creak in my v3, but it was actually I just needed to tighten them to the TRX adjustable plate.
Exactly, my creaking sound comes from the pedal plate. Thin tape between the mating surface(side with 3 screws) helped for some time, but the creaking sound came back after 3-4 months. I'll try something other than tape. Given there are other metal to metal contact points on V3, I wouldn't be surprised if creaking returns in other parts of the pedal.

Things have been pretty good. Its the official wheel which is a little funny. Its made me wonder if some of this isn’t more pd / sony than fanatec. Mostly because im too terrified to touch the drivers 😆 haven’t even plugged it into a computer since the first week. So, when things come and go, sony’s the only one driving that bus.
Know what you mean, I'm on DD Pro and still using old driver 447 FWs on my wheel in fear of it introducing issues. My V3 is on 1.32 FW, I've heard someone mention brake input delay on 1.35+ so stayed. Just don't have total confidence on Fanatec FW, hence this email thread I guess. I still like Fanatec eco system, hope they can turn it around soon so I can spend more money on it.
 
V2s may be stuck in the Endor/Fanatec insolvency drama. Reports of Chinese suppliers not being paid could mean they are only selling what’s been committed and recieved. There’s no “Pre-order” future date option on pretty much all out of stock items. So might be a long wait for the V2s

Really love the V3 inverted but its pricey. Damper on the gas is a nice option

BTW clutch on the v3 is nicer if that matters
On the Fanatec European website it says ships in 4 to 7 days for all pedal sets at the moment.
Maybe it's just a US stock situation?
 
On the Fanatec European website it says ships in 4 to 7 days for all pedal sets at the moment.
Maybe it's just a US stock situation?
Yes US has run out. Shipments go from China direct to each regional Fanatec warehouse, don’t think they ship between as not how they are currently set up and it would cost extra. no pre-order option means no likely ship date is known. I think they are just selling whats on hand to gather cash. When EU runs out likely to see the same unless they renew production
 
Can anyone explain to me how to make analog paddles of GT DD Extreme wheel to be used as simple look left and right in GT7 just like it is on my McLaren GT3 Wheel...
In settings it's switched to A-A but nothing happens when I squeeze the paddles in race...
 
I'm 100% positive that all of these issues are because of PD. There have been too many issues across multiple wheels/bases across different companies for it to be a coincidence, it's incompetence.
Clearly it's polyphony digital who needs to get things back on track. The same wheels on iRacing and other titles do not show any issues.
 
I don't think I've had a disconnect issue since the latest GT7 patch/update.
I didn't have one on my new base until 1.49, and since then I've left it in PS4 mode. Are you talking about 1.50 or 1.49? I might try it in PS5 mode again because I haven't tried it since 1.49.
 
I know this isn’t technically the right thread, but on the subject of wheels … can someone briefly explain to me why wheels like Sim Lab’s Mercedes F1 and Porsche Le Mans replicas won’t supposedly work on consoles but are compatible with the latest Fanatec bases? If the Sony chip is in the base, why can’t you use these wheels with them on console? Is it the way these wheels pull game data/telemetry to actuate their displays and buttons that prevents them from not functioning with consoles?
 
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I know this isn’t technically the right thread, but on the subject of wheels … can someone briefly explain to me why wheels like Sim Lab’s Mercedes F1 and Porsche Le Mans replicas won’t supposedly work on consoles but are compatible with the latest Fanatec bases? If the Sony chip is in the base, why can’t you use these wheels with them on console? Is it the way these wheels pull game data/telemetry to actuate their displays and buttons that prevents them from not functioning with consoles?

Because they need to be connected via USB in order to use the buttons and display. You can mount them to a Fanatec base using a Podium hub, but you’ll only be able to use it to steer.
 
Because they need to be connected via USB in order to use the buttons and display. You can mount them to a Fanatec base using a Podium hub, but you’ll only be able to use it to steer.
Gracias. That’s what I also thought. Too bad you can’t plug into the PS5’s other USB port to make it work.
The only reason I’m not racing on PC is because I just don’t have anywhere in my house to devote space to that setup. I use a Macbook for work and just don’t have any available space in my house to set up a gaming PC tower and monitor right now. First-world problems 🤣
 
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Gracias. That’s what I also thought. Too bad you can’t plug into the PS5’s other USB port to make it work.
The only reason I’m not racing on PC is because I just don’t have anywhere in my house to devote space to that setup. I use a Macbook for work and just don’t have any available space in my house to set up a gaming PC tower and monitor right now. First-world problems 🤣
If PS5 or an update with PS5 Pro allowed USB device button mapping so any USB input could be mapped/used, that would be fantastic, but peripheral licensing lock in...... and all based on an open source linux operating system. :crying_in_exploitation:
 
Gracias. That’s what I also thought. Too bad you can’t plug into the PS5’s other USB port to make it work.
The only reason I’m not racing on PC is because I just don’t have anywhere in my house to devote space to that setup. I use a Macbook for work and just don’t have any available space in my house to set up a gaming PC tower and monitor right now. First-world problems 🤣
Hmm I wonder if using a Drivehub could work. It has a port for using 3rd party accesories like pedals and shifters but have not seen mention of using it w 3rd party wheels. There is a post for it in the Sim racing hardware section - might post an ask over there - the Drivehub dev Podger regualry reads. Probably need some work to map the buttons correctly tho
 
and all based on an open source linux operating system
what? the ps5 (and 3 and 4) are using (free)bsd as the base, see the proof of concept attacks that work because of flaws in the bsd software stack.
different companies use bsd as their base because it's open source, stable and the license doesn't have a strong copy left (requirement to publish your own source code)
 
It looks like my DD+ is now bricked. This was a replacement from Germany and is less than 2 months old (they had me send in my first DD+ for their engineering team to study the disconnections). It was working fine when I last used it a week ago. Today I plugged it and powered it on and it did not do the boot up sequence. When connected to the PC it says it is in update mode and prompts to re-flash the firmware, but it gets stuck at “Waiting SetParameterRequest response…”

IMG_2340.jpeg
 
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