Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

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PDs ffb dev and/or fine-Tuning approach...seemingly...

In all fairness, now after driving a few cars after the update - I actually think removing the shaft rattle, even if it was more communicative, (and whatever else PD has tweaked) was an improvement overall to ffb (on DD+ base).
 
The inconsinstancy and erratic changes on FFB at PD are baffling. Is there even someone in charge there? There should be incremental changes, tweaks, refinement with each update... but it looks like they gave it to a toddler who just has no idea what it's supposed to feel like. :dunce:

The rattle on the previous version was 100% anormal : clearly, the wheel was used outside its "capabilities". How can that even happen? I shouldn't need to tweak things myself to not break my wheel. That's the devs job.

We are talking about the official GT wheel !:banghead:

Btw: fullforce...when?:banghead:
 
Yes, it's very fun and realistic to have a concrete chipping machine at home, especially for the neighbors.🤦‍♂️


When i mentioned similiar loud rattling in GT Sport, some people commented that it's simulating "wheel hop" and is perfectly fine when driven correctly.
Maybe you need to adjust your corner turn in?
/s
 
When i mentioned similiar loud rattling in GT Sport, some people commented that it's simulating "wheel hop" and is perfectly fine when driven correctly.
Maybe you need to adjust your corner turn in?
/s
Well..
I mean…

Yeah.

My 2019 outback, with the abs firing and over scrubbing the tires felt a lot more aggressive than Wednesdays ffb. Todays ffb is just going to train a bunch of clowns to wreck their cars in the valley(backroads) this spring. Makes me wonder how many gt7 hero’s are going to be peeled off of trees, boulders and plucked from creeks in the coming months because they yanked the wheel like idiots. Mustangs are popular here so im guessing..a lot..

Ill probably be out there too. Think im going to take that 1k which was to be spent at fanatec on a wheel and finishing my rig and put it into gas. Driving is supposed to be a fun release and i’ve spent the better part of the year being pissed at this game. With brief months of joy mixed in.

Ugh.
 
So, it’s been interesting to read about the new 1.56 update as it relates to this specific fix:

- Lowered the vibration effect of the THRUSTMASTER® T300RS and Fanatec® GT DD Pro/Extreme.

I know a lot of folks have been “critical” of the understeer vibration effect exhibited by Fanatec DD bases when you push the car hard. I guess Thrustmaster also exhibited the trait. Personally, I’ve only noticed it when I tried to oversteer out of a situation or went into a corner way too hot. Meaning, I tried to force the car to steer more than the level of grip could provide. The effect is quite jarring, especially when I got the corner way wrong. However, for me at least, I never found this “hyper vibration” to be awful. I simply knew intuitively where the limit was. I play a lot of single player mode, and I do league racing. I’d say I reach the “understeer vibration limit” less than 2% of the time. Maybe that’s because I tend to drive smoothly and intuitively understand the limits of the cars in the game. I assume that gamers who tend to jerk the steering wheel a lot are likely to reach that “vibration” limit often. Understandable.

Anyway, before updating the game last night, I ran the Porsche Cayman GT4 car around Grand Valley as well as the Mazda GT3. I purposely over drove the cars in the sections that I knew I could induce the “understeer vibration” effect which signaled to me the steering limit of the car. I then updated the game and ran the same cars and track. Here’s what I noticed: The effect is still there, but it’s been vastly reduced. Maybe 75% less jarring. At the same time, I noticed, to get to that “understeer vibration effect limit”, your steering angle on the wheel is greater. I almost reached 90 degrees of steering angle to get to that “understeer vibration effect limit.” Whereas before, I was reaching 60 degrees to get to that limit.

How does this affect gameplay and enjoyment? For me, so far it seems I can brute force cars to steer before reaching that “understeer vibration effect limit”. Maybe the lap times will drop in my league races as I won’t have to subconsciously contend with the fear of reaching the previous “vibration” rattle during understeer. Do the cars feel insensible during steering? I would say yes. Not by a lot, but they do feel a tad numb compared to before. For me, it’s not going to ruin the game in any way.

I contend PD had to try reducing the “understeer vibration effect” because, let’s be honest, I bet a large percentage of wheel users likely brute force around the game. Maybe we’ll get more dynamic steering feel if PD ever decides to implement “FULLFORCE” to the DD+. Let’s hope it’s implemented before GT9. LOL :cheers:
 
Also not thrilled w the the latest changes. Checking the A_S (auto setup) for the DD+ I see they did move FEI up from 80 - set at the previous change - back to 100, which is what @PirovacBoy noted both times. So PD apparently tried to compensate for the changes they made, not so well this time

Also bumped up in game torque 1 notch, and set FOR (not FFB) up to 110, which has helped

Maybe that curb feel on the left is a bit less then on the right has come back? Or never gone just not so noticeable until this latest
 
I
Well..
I mean…

Yeah.

My 2019 outback, with the abs firing and over scrubbing the tires felt a lot more aggressive than Wednesdays ffb. Todays ffb is just going to train a bunch of clowns to wreck their cars in the valley(backroads) this spring. Makes me wonder how many gt7 hero’s are going to be peeled off of trees, boulders and plucked from creeks in the coming months because they yanked the wheel like idiots. Mustangs are popular here so im guessing..a lot..

Ill probably be out there too. Think im going to take that 1k which was to be spent at fanatec on a wheel and finishing my rig and put it into gas. Driving is supposed to be a fun release and i’ve spent the better part of the year being pissed at this game. With brief months of joy mixed in.

Ugh.
I haven’t had a chance to try it since the update, likely will tomorrow.
Regardless, I’m about to finally buy a good gaming PC after being a console guy since forever. Not because I am mad at GT, but I just want more cars and tracks via iRacing, ACC, ACEvo, etc.
And I’m of course going the VR route there, as well.
 
I

I haven’t had a chance to try it since the update, likely will tomorrow.
Regardless, I’m about to finally buy a good gaming PC after being a console guy since forever. Not because I am mad at GT, but I just want more cars and tracks via iRacing, ACC, ACEvo, etc.
And I’m of course going the VR route there, as well.
That pimax crystal does look pretty sweet. Ac evo kinda seems like the driving game with everything too.

Dang..
 
I

I haven’t had a chance to try it since the update, likely will tomorrow.
Regardless, I’m about to finally buy a good gaming PC after being a console guy since forever. Not because I am mad at GT, but I just want more cars and tracks via iRacing, ACC, ACEvo, etc.
And I’m of course going the VR route there, as well.

Keep us updated on your PC specs when you go that route. I keep threatening to myself to go down that route as well
 
That pimax crystal does look pretty sweet. Ac evo kinda seems like the driving game with everything too.

Dang..
I thought I was going to go that route but some rather terrible Amazon reviews have likely changed my mind on that one.
Keep us updated on your PC specs when you go that route. I keep threatening to myself to go down that route as well
Think I'm going to go with this: https://www.originpc.com/configurator/corsair-one-i500-opc/
I'm assured by my savvy PC gaming friends that it will be more than enough processing power for years and years to come when sim racing is all I care about doing.

EDIT: Actually, now I dunno what I'm going to end up doing LOL. i need to consult with my consultant again who actually knows about PC gaming, which I definitely do not when it comes to hardware.
 
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@PirovacBoy Do you feel you still need to use NIN (Natural Inertia) at 1?? This setting helps with lightweight wheels from the FANATEC CSL line-up. (Basically plastic fantastic wheels). Since we both use the BMW GT wheel, which is heavier than any CSL wheel, I've recently turned this setting off completely. I was running it at 1, but after some testing, I feel like turning it off makes the wheel feel more natural. It's slight, but wondered since you mostly developed your settings on a lighter wheel if you've played with this setting since.
 
FMW
@PirovacBoy Do you feel you still need to use NIN (Natural Inertia) at 1?? This setting helps with lightweight wheels from the FANATEC CSL line-up. (Basically plastic fantastic wheels). Since we both use the BMW GT wheel, which is heavier than any CSL wheel, I've recently turned this setting off completely. I was running it at 1, but after some testing, I feel like turning it off makes the wheel feel more natural. It's slight, but wondered since you mostly developed your settings on a lighter wheel if you've played with this setting since.
Hi, yes I have tried turning it off but I still prefer it on 1.
The reason is not the wheel being too light, it's more because of the fact it helps in situations where quick weight transfers might unsettle the car.
It makes the initial weight shift more firm with NIN 1.
Without NIN, the weight transfer curve becomes more gradual, which indeed like you mentioned feels a bit more natural, but I personally prefer it a bit less gradual in terms of force load on the wheel itself.
And btw. with the latest update I have gone the complete opposite direction in terms of in game sensitivity.
I'm now using Torque 4 and Sensitivity 1.
Absolutely no Oscillation or let's say say almost non existent.
Feels way more gradual and precise.
But as always it's all personal preference.

Edit 17 43
Just tried it again with NIN off and 5/1 in game... Feels pretty damn spot on.
Good find @FMW
And still absolutely no Oscillating
 
Last edited:
Hi, yes I have tried turning it off but I still prefer it on 1.
The reason is not the wheel being too light, it's more because of the fact it helps in situations where quick weight transfers might unsettle the car.
It makes the initial weight shift more firm with NIN 1.
Without NIN, the weight transfer curve becomes more gradual, which indeed like you mentioned feels a bit more natural, but I personally prefer it a bit less gradual in terms of force load on the wheel itself.
And btw. with the latest update I have gone the complete opposite direction in terms of in game sensitivity.
I'm now using Torque 4 and Sensitivity 1.
Absolutely no Oscillation or let's say say almost non existent.
Feels way more gradual and precise.
But as always it's all personal preference.

Edit 17 43
Just tried it again with NIN off and 5/1 in game... Feels pretty damn spot on.
Good find @FMW
And still absolutely no Oscillating
Can we have an update of your current settings please?
 
Can we have an update of your current settings please?
Of course here we go.
The Settings are as following:

Wheelbase
Sensitivity : Auto
Full Force : 0
Force Feedback : 100
Natural DP : 28
Natural Fr : 5
Natural In : 0
Interpolation : 5
Force Effect Intensity : 100
FOR/DPR/SPR : 100
Brake Force : 60 or 65 ( preference)

GT7 In Game Settings :
Torque : 5
Sensitivity :1

Controller Sensitivity : 0 ( it minds AND it makes a difference, marginal and subtle, but it does matter)

Especially the Interpolation set to 5 made a huge difference in terms of realistic on track Wheel feel behavior.
The harsh Feedback signal feels smooth like butter and combined with the in game sensitivity set to 1 completely diminished the super unrealistic wheel oscillation.
Moreover the FFB feels absolutely aligned and doesn't overwhelm with harsh and unpleasant wheel shaking.
The Road Textures, bumps, curbs and especially the tire feedback feel absolutely smooth yet very precise.
The Wheel itself finally feels more then ever like the real thing, without sacrificing any details whatsoever.

It's firm, precise and so much on point that the driving becomes more natural than ever.
Most importantly the 3 most important Forces
Weight Transfer
Understeer
Oversteer
Are now balanced and precise in a way that driving on the edge is no guesswork anymore.
No more overly aggressive Noise or unsyncronized misleading effects.
The focus is completely on the above mentioned 3 most important Aspects.

Hope you like it, enjoy the ride 😁
 
Hi, yes I have tried turning it off but I still prefer it on 1.
The reason is not the wheel being too light, it's more because of the fact it helps in situations where quick weight transfers might unsettle the car.
It makes the initial weight shift more firm with NIN 1.
Without NIN, the weight transfer curve becomes more gradual, which indeed like you mentioned feels a bit more natural, but I personally prefer it a bit less gradual in terms of force load on the wheel itself.
And btw. with the latest update I have gone the complete opposite direction in terms of in game sensitivity.
I'm now using Torque 4 and Sensitivity 1.
Absolutely no Oscillation or let's say say almost non existent.
Feels way more gradual and precise.
But as always it's all personal preference.

Edit 17 43
Just tried it again with NIN off and 5/1 in game... Feels pretty damn spot on.
Good find @FMW
And still absolutely no Oscillating
Glad you liked and noticed the difference. :) I can't go back to NIN 1. The natural feel with the steering input feels great, which has also improved my consistency when racing friends in our league. It's subtle, but noticeable enough. I also turned it off when playing ACC. My previous settings in that game felt fine, but turning off NIN for that game also made the driving experience just a tad more connected.
With that said, I've also started messing around with NATURAL FRICTION. For the most part, I've left it at 5, just like you. Feels great, but I've come to find, there are certain car types where turning it down one click can make certain car types (mostly street cars) feel more natural. As NATURAL FRICTION is described by Fanatec, it helps recreate the feel through the steering rack as it relates to cars with wider tires (Race Cars) or cars with no power steering. At 5, my GT3 GT7 cars feel amazing. Formula cars like the SF23, SF19 and new F3500 also feel amazing. However, something was just a little off when lapping around in street cars. Anyway, I turned NATURAL FRICTION to 4 when using unmodified street cars. For the most part, it tends to make driving them more fun and natural.
 
My guess would be that a new CS Pedal set is close by and they’re clearing out stock.

A lot of reviews claim the CSL Elite V2 are better than the V3 so an update is due.
 
Personally, I don’t think this offer is generous enough, at least in Europe.

I do not denigrate the Fanatec equipment, but it seems to me that many take another wheel in addition.

By buying smart (promotion period, Black Friday), we can do better than that.

A Logitech G Pro bundle can go down to €1,170

For example, I built my set for €1960 with:

  • Logitech G Pro Wheel,
  • Steering wheel D shape,
  • Logitech G Pro pedals,
  • 2 * Logitech RS Hub,
  • Momo x Logitech steering wheel 320 mm,
  • Momo x Logitech steering wheel 290 mm.

I had put the 2 options in the balance (Fanatec vs Logitech)... mainly player of GT7, I do not regret my choice.
 
Personally, I don’t think this offer is generous enough, at least in Europe.
My thoughts exactly.

I'm a cheap bastard playing in a used PS4 pro and a used Thrustmaster T150 but with the new Thustmaster T598 available under 500 euro this wheel makes not much sense to me. Thrustmaster had finally the balls to do what no other company seemed interested in - offering an affordable and upgradable DD wheel to the PS users.
 
Im thinking evo, or project motor racing will have a better shot of showing us what Trueforce can do. Gt7 seemed to have lost its way when the movie rolled out. They seem more into marketing, than driving, since around then..
 

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