Yeah, thats probably the problem.Could be the QR Lite slipping. Try a layer or two of electrical tape over the groove in the shaft. I suffer with it so have ordered a QR1, hopefully it'll stop the problem.
I had the same issue and the tape helped.Yeah, thats probably the problem.
Really annoying!
Did you try electric tape and if so did it help?
Was thinking of ordering a QR1, please report back when you tried it.
Thanks, I am going to try tape.I had the same issue and the tape helped.
I got a QR1 with the McLaren wheel, and that also didn't fix it entirely for me. I have to use the holding screw to fix it in place, then it is OK.
The tape does help. I put 2 strips on and it works. Think I've redone it a couple of times as it starts to move after a while.Yeah, thats probably the problem.
Really annoying!
Did you try electric tape and if so did it help?
Was thinking of ordering a QR1, please report back when you tried it.
Thank you, appreciate it.The tape does help. I put 2 strips on and it works. Think I've redone it a couple of times as it starts to move after a while.
The QR1 should be here next week so I'll let you know how it feels.
Thanks, I am going to try tape.
You can try with sheet metal from a can 0.2mm thick.The tape does help. I put 2 strips on and it works. Think I've redone it a couple of times as it starts to move after a while.
You can try with sheet metal from a can 0.2mm thick.
It's better than tape and doesn't wear out, but it's a little tricky to shape it along the channel.
View attachment 1228219
You can try with sheet metal from a can 0.2mm thick.
It's better than tape and doesn't wear out, but it's a little tricky to shape it along the channel.
View attachment 1228219
I checked my firmware expecting it to be up to date, but it wasn't... and updating it turned into a bit more of a drama than expected. To start with the software wouldn't talk to my wheelbase, and then it thought it was a different wheel, not a GT DD.I have 447, the latest official release. So it's still there.
I know that the 448 beta is out but haven't tried that yet
Humm...... maybe I'd better not touch it! I can handle getting a bit crossed up, but when you want to shift up a gear mid corner it gets tricky!If you reduce SEN in GT7 too much you will get severe oscillations.
I have it at Auto, which is also recommended. I think GT also adjusts it automatically for each car, so there shouldn't be any need to change it.
Turning 180 degrees should be alright, but only in slow speed hairpins. In other corners it's not necessary, and if you do turn that much you will have massive understeer.
Thanks for the info guy's.... When it comes to settings I'm not too sure where to start. I did use a set that I found here on GTPlanet back when that update messed everything up but have since gone back to default settings.@Jules_r I found it very important to adjust the settings for each game, to get the right tyre grip feel especially.
The A setting on the wheel, as well as the recommended settings from Fanatec felt too heavy lacking details.
The steering angle in most games is Auto, so it changes for each car. But you can set it to your preference if you prefer. 900-1080 for road racing cars is common and down to 540 degrees for rally cars.
As @timekiller001 said, any tighter than that will be twitchy and break grip easily.
Must admit I've never updated the software, as I don't have a PC and don't want the hassle or to stuff anything up. The V2'S and DD are working well as is.I checked my firmware expecting it to be up to date, but it wasn't... and updating it turned into a bit more of a drama than expected. To start with the software wouldn't talk to my wheelbase, and then it thought it was a different wheel, not a GT DD.
Then I figured I should probably download the new drivers etc. which I did... and then it worked perfectly.
Than I had to work out a way of plugging the USB cable into the V3 pedals without removing them from my rig, which would be a massive hassle... it all took way longer than it should!
I can post my settings if you want, I do leave SEN on auto for GT7 however.Thanks for the info guy's.... When it comes to settings I'm not too sure where to start. I did use a set that I found here on GTPlanet back when that update messed everything up but have since gone back to default settings.
Thanks Dude...... yep, settings would be great. I need to get my brakes sorted first though!!I can post my settings if you want, I do leave SEN on auto for GT7 however.
Just seen you're from Kent, me too.
Yep, got a series 4 Comp that I've had from new since 2016. Remapped to about 210bhp with a few other mods.Post in thread 'Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro' https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-gran-turismo-dd-pro.402448/post-13929549
Those are mine that work for me.
@Abarth_71 keen on seeing yours too. Are you driving an Abarth currently? My brother still regrets getting rid of his Competizone for an R32. Great fun to drive, so much character.
Looks like a wicked little weapon. One of the best sounding small cars too.Yep, got a series 4 Comp that I've had from new since 2016. Remapped to about 210bhp with a few other mods.
View attachment 1228280
Nice tune, will give it a go tonight.Did a bunch of laps on the Ring w the Maserati A6GCS/53 Spyder on SS to adjust my DD Pro 8 settings. The A6 is a lot of fun and you can really feel weight shift and suspension travel.
Wheel:
In-Game Settings:
- SEN Auto
- FF 100
- FFS linear - shout out to @kembro for this - you give up 2nm but makes a noticeable diff in detail feel IMO
- NDP 15 - seems low? I know but w Lin feels good. Went down to 10 but a bit too nervous maybe
- NFR 5
- NIN 5
- INT 1
- FEI 100
- FOR 100 - go to 110 if you want a bit more rather than turn up in-game torque
- SPR 100
- DPR 100
- Assist Settings:
- Countersteering Assistance: Off
- Controller Settings:
- Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5 max to avoid clipping
- Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
Thx - the bit of NFR and NIN seem to add in some RL car feel for me, but if you were pushing for every last bit of reactive response might not be what you want. I think that once you lower the damping the suspension modeling and tune of the individual cars seems to come through more - some are better than othersNice tune, will give it a go tonight.
I'm a bit of a fan of no dampening or friction, for more details, but you get more road vibes too. Understand wanting it to feel smooth though with those settings.
That's exactly it, about giving up a little weight for more details. I feel curbs better and tyre resistance when pushing/understeering.
Thanks for the update, appreciate it.My QR1 came yesterday. Played ACC for a few hours last night and it feels much better. I used the retaining screw/bolt as I don't change wheels and it's rock solid. Only issue was an annoying clank where the collar hits the bolt when going over curbs and stuff, but that was an easy fix just putting a small cable tie around the bolt.
LINEAR... much much better for me on GT 7 !!! i run the 8nm and kept all other settings as before I had on wheel but increasing FFB in game from 4 to 6. I usually test all my car on lago maggiore and improved all laps by avg 1 sec on each of them...I cannot believe it...how it can be is better then peak ?Did a bunch of laps on the Ring w the Maserati A6GCS/53 Spyder on SS to adjust my DD Pro 8 settings. The A6 is a lot of fun and you can really feel weight shift and suspension travel.
Wheel:
In-Game Settings:
- SEN Auto
- FF 100
- FFS linear - shout out to @kembro for this - you give up 2nm but makes a noticeable diff in detail feel IMO
- NDP 15 - seems low? I know but w Lin feels good. Went down to 10 but a bit too nervous maybe
- NFR 5
- NIN 5
- INT 1
- FEI 100
- FOR 100 - go to 110 if you want a bit more rather than turn up in-game torque
- SPR 100
- DPR 100
- Assist Settings:
- Countersteering Assistance: Off
- Controller Settings:
- Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5 max to avoid clipping
- Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
Have you tried the WRC rim?