FINAL GT6 2016 STORAGETRUNKS GT500 BASE SERIES-Monday Nights 18:30UKFinished 

We have had several series with the usual tracks, and last series and this one we added a few of the less well known tracks.
Howver in the next follow on series we are having a more of the " well known great tracks " also along with that will be a couple of day to night and night to day races along with a couple of weather tracks.
 
Incident report 1 decision

Erazer gets a 2nd Yellow card resulting in -2pts loss from championship pts standings.

This decision is final and the incident is now closed.
 
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Incident report 2 decision
It has been decided on looking through the 3 laps that this incident ran for to give
Both Crazy John and Monkeywall a yellow card each.

In certain areas both drivers were rather reckless.

This decision is final and the incident is now closed.
 
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We have had several series with the usual tracks, and last series and this one we added a few of the less well known tracks.
Howver in the next follow on series we are having a more of the " well known great tracks " also along with that will be a couple of day to night and night to day races along with a couple of weather tracks.

Sounds good, especially the day/night races 👍

Also this series as is, is just fine - I wasn't meaning to actually make changes just airing some thoughts in general :)

...On the topic of thoughts, imagine the carnage of a day to night weather race at the nordshleife :scared::mischievous:
 
Here is the Poster for Round 13 guys.

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@Stephen Vann
 
So I got my PS3 up and running yesterday and the connection seemed pretty good tbh, nice and stable with no lag. :)

However my wheel has seemed to have been damaged when I moved and the throttle is permanently at 25% open with no pressure applied and the brake is faulty as it keeps coming on down the straight. They were 2min 40 laps around spa in a CRZ but the brake issue was costing me around 1-3s a lap, depending on how much my the brakes would come on so if i don't get it fixed, there is no way I can race with that :boggled:

Also regarding overtakes: I use the policy for overtaking that if a gap is pretty certain to close, whether on the inside or outside, I don't go for it.
When defending, if I don't want someone to pass, I simply cover the inside. I see people leave the door open and then slam it shut at the apex when someone sees it as an overtaking opportunity, which causes confusion and incidents.
Following this helps me to avoid hitting people anyway and there seems to have been a lot of crashes recently
 
@DannyB013 Have you tried calibrating the travel of both pedals when just going out on track? This has always got rid of any 'brake ride' or throttle position problems for me. Other than that, you might have to take the pedal base off and check that the gears haven't jumped any teeth, or that the switches haven't been knocked etc.
 
@DannyB013 in addiditon to what mirial said, if you use an USB extention cord or switch, remove it asap. I had the exact same problem once. I took the pedals apart and found nothing wrong, then bought a new wheel, but the issues was still there. then I removed the extention and it solved it .
 
Thanks for the advice guys. How would I calibrate the travel of both pedals? The wheel calibrates when I turn it on but after that, I just roll onto the track and race. Also I don't use a usb extension, so it cannot be related to that. I've always had a blippy throttle which comes and goes but it costs me hundredths a lap when it happens so isn't really an issue but for this one, I think I'll have to take the base off and colo suggested using wd40 so I'll try that as well. 👍
 
Thanks for the advice guys. How would I calibrate the travel of both pedals? The wheel calibrates when I turn it on but after that, I just roll onto the track and race. Also I don't use a usb extension, so it cannot be related to that. I've always had a blippy throttle which comes and goes but it costs me hundredths a lap when it happens so isn't really an issue but for this one, I think I'll have to take the base off and colo suggested using wd40 so I'll try that as well. 👍
just a thought ,have you tried it in port 2 ! and i would be carefull with the wd40 ,,switch cleaner is a bit lighter ! m2pw
 
@DannyB013 You calibrate the pedals just by letting the system set lock to lock as normal on start up without touching the pedals and when you first go out of the pits, just press both pedals fully home - that's your full and zero positions set. If you want full brake pressure with half pedal travel or full throttle with half travel you can do this too by temporarily putting stops in (in the case of DFGT anyway).

As for the pedal potentiometers if they continue to be intermittent, you'd be best to take them apart completely to clean and put some fresh switch grease on the contacts. If it sounds too daunting, find some mate who enjoys taking intricate stuff apart and putting it back together again....it shouldn't be a problem! 2 or 3 hours should do it. You can buy (not from Logitech) new ones online seperately too.
 
Just a quick question how do u calibrate the pedals? Don't worry just read the previous post from @mirial

Also would anyone suggest that i possibly buy the 'GT EYE' spring set for my G29 ?
 
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